THIS  BOOK 

TO 

MY  DEAR  FATHER  AND  MOTHER 


20049S1 


PREFACE 


IN  this  book  I  have  set  down  the  record  of  a  journey 
in  Tibet  undertaken  by  me  during  the  spring,  summer, 
and  autumn  of  1897.  It  is  illustrated  partly  from  my 
photographs  and  partly  from  sketches  made  by  me  on  the 
spot.  Only  as  regards  the  torture  scenes  have  I  had  to 
draw  from  memory,  but  it  will  be  easily  conceded  that 
their  impression  must  be  vivid  enough  with  me. 

The  map  is  my  own,  made  entirely  f'-om  my  surveys 
of  an  area  of  twelve  thousand  five  hundred  square  miles 
in  Tibet  proper.  In  Chapter  VI.  the  altitudes  of  such 
high  peaks  in  India  as  Nanda  Devi  and  others  are  taken 
from  the  Trigonometrical  Survey,  and  so  are  the  positions 
fixed  by  astronomical  observations  of  the  starting  and 
terminating  points  of  my  surveys  at  the  spots  where  I 
entered  and  left  Tibet. 

In  the  orthography  of  geographical  names  I  have 
adopted  the  course  advised  by  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society — viz.,  to  give  the  names  their  true  sound  as  they 
are  locally  pronounced,  and  I  have  made  no  exception 
even  for  the  grand  and  poetic  "  Himahlya,"  which  is  in 
English  usually  distorted  into  the  unmusical  and  unro- 
mantic  word  "  Himalaya." 


PREFACE 

I  submit  with  all  deference  the  following  geographical 
results  of  my  expedition  : 

The  solution  of  the  uncertainty  regarding  the  division 
of  the  Mansarowar  and  Rakastal  Lakes  ; 

The  ascent  to  so  great  an  altitude  as  22,000  feet,  and 
the  pictures  of  some  of  the  great  Himahlyan  glaciers  ; 

The  visit  to  and  the  fixing  of  the  position  of  the 
two  principal  sources  of  the  Brahmaputra,  never  before 
reached  by  a  European  ; 

The  fact  that  with  only  two  men  I  was  able  to  travel 
for  so  long  in  the  most  populated  part  of  Tibet. 

In  addition  to  the  above,  I  am  glad  to  state  that  owing 
to  the  publicity  which  I  gave  in  the  Daily  Mail  to  the 
outrageous  Tibetan  abuses  taking  place  on  British  soil, 
the  Government  of  India  has  this  year  (1898)  notified 
the  Tibetan  authorities  that  they  will  in  future  not  be 
permitted  to  collect  Land  Revenue  from  British  subjects 
there.  This  fact  gives  me  special  satisfaction,  because  of 
the  exceptional  courtesy  and  kindness  bestowed  on  me  by 
our  mountain  tribesmen,  the  Shokas. 

The  Government  Report  of  the  official  investigation 
of  my  case,  as  well  as  other  documents  substantiating  the 
details  of  my  narrative,  are  printed  in  an  appendix. 

A.  H.  S.  L. 

September,  1898. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER   I  PAGE 

FROM   LONDON   TO   NAINI   TAL I 

CHAPTER  II 

LOADS — A  SET  OF  USEFUL  PACK-SADDLE  CASES — PROVISIONS  AND  SCIENTIFIC 
OUTFIT  —  CLOTHES  AND  SHOES  —  MEDICINES — UNDER  WAY  —  THE  FIRST 
MARCH — SERVANTS — HOW  I  CAME  TO  EMPLOY  FAITHFUL  CHANDEN  SING  4 

CHAPTER   III 

PITHORAGARH  —  FAKIR    WOMEN — A  WELL-VENTILATED   ABODE — ASKOTE — THE 

RAJIWAR   AND   HIS   PEOPLE 12 

CHAPTER   IV 

THE  RAOTS  —  A  SLIPPERY  JOURNEY  —  SUPERSTITIOUS  NOTIONS  —  ANGER  AND 
JEALOUSY — FRIENDS — TO  THE  HOMES  OF  THE  SAVAGES — PHOTOGRAPHY — 
HABITATIONS l8 

CHAPTER   V 

A  PILGRIM  FROM  MANSAROWAR  LAKE  —  THE  SPIRITS  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS  —  A 
SAFEGUARD  AGAINST  THEM — TIBETAN  ENCAMPMENTS — THE  RAJIWAR — A 
WATERFALL — WATER-MILLS 2g 

CHAPTER  VI 

HIGHWAYS  AND  TRADE 'ROUTES — THE  DARMA  ROUTE — THE  DHOLI  RIVER — A 
ROUGH  TRACK  CONNECTING  TWO  VALLEYS  —  GLACIERS  —  THREE  RANGES 
AND  THEIR  PEAKS  —  ALTITUDES  —  DARMA,  JOHAR,  AND  THE  PAIXKHA.\DA 
PARGANAS  —  THE  HIGHEST  PEAK  IN  THE  BRITISH  EMPIRE  —  NATURAL 
BOUNDARIES 39 

CHAPTER   VII 

THE  WORD  BHOT  AND  ITS  MEANING  —  TIBETAN  INFLUENCE  —  TIBETAN  ABUSES 
—  THE  EVER-HELPFUL  CHANDEN  SING  —  THE  FIRST  SHOKAH  VILLAGE  — 
CHANDEN  SING  IN  DISGRACE  —  WEAVING  -  LOOM  —  FABRICS  —  ALL'S  WELL 
THAT  ENDS  WELL 45 

vii 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER   VIII  PAGE 

PRAYER  BY  WIND-POWER — PHOTOGRAPHY  UNDER  DIFFICULTIES — A  NIGHT  OF 
MISERY — DRYING  UP — TWO  LADY  MISSIONARIES — THEIR  VALUABLE  WORK 
— AN  INTERESTING  DINNER-PARTY — AN  "ECCENTRIC"  MAN'S  TEA-PARTY  5! 

CHAPTER   IX 

DISCOURAGING  REPORTS  —  A  STEEP  ASCENT  —  HOW  I  CAME  TO  DESERVE  THE 
NAME  OF  "MONKEY" — HARD  AT  WORK — PROMOTED  IN  RANK — COLLAPSE 
IN  A  GALE  OF  WIND — TIME  AND  LABOR  LOST 58 

CHAPTER   X 

THE  NERPANl,  OR  ' '  WATERLESS  TRACK  " — EXAGGERATED  ACCOUNTS — A  LONG 
SHOT — THE  RESCUE  OF  TWO  COOLIES — PICTURESQUE  NATURE — AN  INVOL- 
UNTARY SHOWER-BATH — THE  CHAl  PASS 63 

CHAPTER   XI 

A  SERIES  OF  MISFORTUNES — TIBETAN  ATROCITIES  ON  BRITISH  SUBJECTS — TIB- 
ETAN EXACTIONS — REVOLTING  CRUELTY  TO  ONE  OF  HER  MAJESTY'S  SUB- 
JECTS— ASSAULT  ON  A  BRITISH  OFFICER — A  SMART  BRITISH  ENVOY  .  .  71 

CHAPTER   XII 

TIBETAN   THREATS — MY   BIRTHDAY — RAVENOUS    DOGS — A   BIG   DINNER — SHOKA 

HOSPITALITY 78 

CHAPTER   XIII 

SHOKA  HOSPITALITY  —  HOW  I  OBTAINED  MUCH  INFORMATION  —  ON  A  RECON- 
NOITRING TRIP — A  TERRIBLE  SLIDE 84 

CHAPTER    XIV 

A  PALAVER — TO  SEE  IS  TO  BELIEVE — DANGERS  AND  PERILS  ON  THE  SNOW  AND 
ICE —  THAR  AND  GHURAL  —  STALKING  —  A  TIRING  CLIMB  TO  l6,OOO  FEET — 
THE  COLLAPSE  OF  A  SNOW  BRIDGE 92 

CHAPTER    XV 

AN  EARTHQUAKE— CURIOUS  NOTIONS  OF  THE  NATIVES— A  SHOKA  TAILOR  AND 
HIS  WAYS  —  THE  ARRIVAL  OF  SILVER  CASH  —  TWO  ROCKS  IN  THE  KALI 
— ARROGANCE  OF  A  TIBETAN  SPY 97 

CHAPTER   XVI 

THE  RAMBANG — SHOKA  MUSIC — LOVE-SONGS—DOLEFUL  SINGING— ABRUPT  END- 
ING— SOLOS — SMOKING — WHEN  MARRIAGE  IS  CONTEMPLATED — THE  DELANG 
— ADULTERY — PUNISHMENT .  105 

viii 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER     XVII 

FUNERAL  RITES  PAGB 

DEPARTURE  OF  THE  SOUL  —  CREMATION  —  AMUSEMENT  OF  THE  DEAD  MAN'S 
SOUL — THE  LAY-FIGURE — FEASTING — DOLEFUL  DANCE — TRANSMIGRATION 
OF  THE  SOUL  —  EXPENSIVE  CEREMONIES  —  OFFERINGS  BEFORE  THE  LAY- 
FIGURE — DANCING  AND  CONTORTIONS — MARTIAL  DANCES — SOLO  DANCES — 
THE  ANIMAL  TO  BE  SACRIFICED  AND  THE  LAY-FIGURE  —  CHASING  THE 
ANIMAL  FROM  THE  VILLAGE — TEARING  OUT  ITS  HEART — THE  YAK  DRIVEN 
OVER  A  PRECIPICE — H1.A1'  SHAVING — A  SACRED  CAVE 112 

CHAPTER    XVIII 

TOUCHING  SHOKA  FAREWELL  —  FEELINGS  CURIOUSLY  EXPRESSED  —  SOBS  AND 
TEARS— THE  START — A  FUNERAL  PROCESSION — DISTRESSED  FATHER  AND 
MOTHER— KACHI  AND  DOLA  THE  WORSE  FOR  DRINK — ANXIOUS  MOMENTS 
— THE  BRIDGE  DESTROYER 124 

CHAPTER   XIX 

A  DANGEROUS  TRACK — PERILOUS  PASSAGE — A  CURIOUS  BRIDGE  OVER  A  PRECI- 
PICE— PATHETIC  SHOKA  CUSTOM— SMALL  MISADVENTURES — A  GRAND  RE- 
CEPTION— TEA  FOR  ALL  TASTES 130 

CHAPTER   XX 

DR.  WILSON  JOINS  MY  EXPEDITION  FOR  A  FEW  MARCHES  —  WHAT  MISDEEDS 
A  PHOTOGRAPHIC  CAMERA  CAN  DO  —  WEIGHING,  DIVIDING,  AND  PACKING 
PROVISIONS — TWO  EXTRA  MEN  WANTED — THE  LAST  FRIENDLY  FACES  .  .  134 

CHAPTER    XXI 

THE  KUTI  CASTLE — UNDER  WAY — OUR  FIRST  DISASTER — A  CHEERFUL  AND  A 
SULKY  COOLIE — MANSING — A  BRIGAND — A  STRANGE  MEDLEY  OF  FOLLOW- 
ERS—  A  CHARACTER  —  TAILORING  —  FIELDS  OF  STONES  —  TROUBLESOME 
RIVERS  —  THE  JOLINKAN  OR  LEBUNG  PASS  —  SENSE  OF  HUMOR  —  PLEASED 
WITH  SMALL  COMFORTS 138 

CHAPTER   XXII 

WANT  OF  FUEL — COOKING  UNDER  DIFFICULTY — MANSING  LOST  AND  FOUND — 
SAVED  FROM  SUMMARY  JUSTICE  —  TIBETAN  VISITORS  —  WE  PURCHASE 
SHEEP — THE  SNOW-LINE — COLD  STREAMS — THE  PETRIFIED  CHAPATI  AND 
HUMAN  HAND 148 

CHAPTER   XXIII 

THE  SCOUTS  RETURN — A  SMALL  EXPLORING  PARTY — THE  MANGSHAN  GLACIER  .    154 

CHAPTER    XXIV. 

SNOW  AND  TROUBLESOME  DEBRIS—  THE  DOCTOR'S  SUFFERINGS  —  KACHI  DIS- 
ABLED—FURTHER TRIALS — A  WEIRD  APPARITION — DELIRIUM — ALL  SAFE — 
THE  DESCENT 158 

ix 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER    XXV  PAGE 

• 

THE   SOURCES  OF  THE   KUTI   RIVER— THE   LUMl'IY A   GLACIER— THE   SUMMIT   Of 

THE  RANGE  —  BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  TIBET  — RUBSO  FROZEN  ALMOST  TO 

l>l   \TH—  THE   LUMPIYA   PASS— TWO   COOLIES   IN    DISTRESS l66 

CHAPTER   XXVI 

MYSTERIOUS  FOOTPRINTS— BRIGAND  OR  SPY  ?— PASSES  AND  TRACKS— INTENSE 
COLD— NO  FUEL— A  HIGH,  FLAT  PLATEAU— FUEL  AT  LAST  !— TWO  SPIES 
IN  DISGUISE — WHAT  THEY  TOOK  US  FOR 1 7 1 

CHAPTER    XXVII 

LAMA  CHOKDEN— A  TIBETAN  GUARD— THE  SACRED  KELAS— REVERENCE  OF  MY 
MEN  FOR  THE  SACRED  MOUNTAIN— TRYING  HARD  TO  KEEP  FRIENDS  WITH 
THE  GODS — OSOS — WATER  FLOWING  TO  US I7f> 

CHAPTER   XXVIII 

AN  EXTENSIVE  VALLEY  —  KIANG,  OR  WILD  HORSE  —  THEIR  STRANGE  WAYS  — 
THE  GYANEMA  FORT — APPREHENSION  AT  OUR  APPEARANCE — A  PARLEY — 
"CUT  OUR  HEADS!" — REVOLT  AND  MURDER  CONTEMPLATED — HYPOCRIT- 
ICAL WAYS  OF  TIBETAN  OFFICIALS— HELP  SUMMONED  FROM  EVERYWHERE 
— PREPARING  FOR  WAR !?<> 

CHAPTER  XXIX 

ARRIVAL  OF  A  HIGH  OFFICIAL — THE  BARCA  TARJUM — A  TEDIOUS  PALAVER — 
THE  TARJUM'S  ANXIETY  —  PERMISSION  TO  PROCEED  —  A  TRAITOR  —  EN- 
TREATED TO  RETRACE  OUR  STEPS — THIRTY  ARMED  HORSEMEN — A  PRETTY 
SPEECH l86> 

CHAPTER    XXX 

SPYING  OUR  MOVEMENTS — DISGUISED  SEPOYS — A  GLOOMY  OUTLOOK — TROUBLE- 
SOME FOLLOWERS — ANOTHER  MARCH  BACK — AN  AMUSING  INCIDENT  .  .  193. 

CHAPTER    XXXI 

AN  ATTEMPT  THAT  FAILED  —  A  RESOLUTION  —  A  SMART  SHOKA  LAD  —  THE 
PLUCKY  CHANDEN  SING  PROPOSES  TO  ACCOMPANY  ME  —  MANSING  THE 
LEPER  BECOMES  MY  SERVANT'S  SERVANT IQ& 

CHAPTER    XXXII 

"  DEVIL'S  CAMP  "  —  A  FIERCE  SNOW  -  STORM  —  ABANDONING  OUR  TENTS  — 
DANGERS  AND  PERILS  IN  PROSPECT  —  COLLECTING  THE  MEN  —  ONE  LOAD 
TOO  MANY  ! — ANOTHER  MAN  WANTED  AND  FOUND — A  PROPITIOUS  NIGHT 
— GOOD-BYE  TO  WILSON — THE  ESCAPE — BRIGANDS 2OJ 

CHAPTER    XXXIII 

SOUTHEAST  WIND  —  HUNGRY  AND  HALF  FROZEN  —  LAKES  AT  18,960  FEET 
ABOVE  SEA-LEVEL  —  COLD  FOOD  AT  HIGH  ALTITUDES  —  BURIED  IN  SNOW 

— MANSING'S  SUFFERINGS — FUEL  AT  LAST 20$ 

x 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER    XXXIV  PACK 

DACOITS — NO  NONSENSE  ALLOWED — A  MUCH-FREQUENTED  REGION — A  PLATEAU 

—  THE     GYANE.MA- 1  AKLAKOT    TRACK  —  A    DANGEROUS     SPOT  —  SOLDIERS 
WAITING  FOR   US — BURYING  OUR  BAGGAGE — OUT   OF   PROVISIONS — A  FALL 
INTO   THE   GAKKON    RIVER — A   BRIGHT   IDEA — NETTLES   OUR  DIET      .      .      .    213 

CHAPTER    XXXV 

ALL  THAT  REMAINED  OF  MY  MEN'S  PROVISIONS  —  THE  PLAN  TO  ENTER  THE 
FORT — APPEARANCE  OF  YAKS — A  BAND  OF  BRIGANDS — ERECTING  FORTI- 
FICATIONS—CHANGES IN  THE  TEMPERATURE— SOLDIERS  IN  SEARCH  OF  US  22O 

CHAPTER   XXXVI 

"TERROR   CAM  I1" — TWO  MORE  MESSENGERS  lEAVE  CAMP — A  TRIBE   OF  DOGPAS 

—  A   STRANGE   SAHIB  —  OUR  MESSENGERS  RETURN  FROM  TAKLAKOT  —  THE 
ACCOUNT  AND   ADVENTURES    OF    THEIR    MISSION  —  IN    GREAT    DISTRESS  — 
TWO     FAKIRS     WHO     SUFFERED     THROUGH    ME  —  FIVE    HUNDRED     RUPEES 
OFFERED    FOR    MY   HEAD — THE    SHOKAS   WANT  TO   ABANDON   ME — A   PLOT 

— HOW   IT   FAILED , 224, 

CHAPTER    XXXVII 

A  TIBETAN  GUARD'S  KNC AMPMENT  —  NATTOO  VOLUNTEERS  TO  BE  A  GUIDE  — 
TREACHERY  AND  PUNISHMENT  OF  THE  SHOKAS  —  ALL  WAYS  FORWARD 
BARRED  TO  ME — EVADING  THE  SOLDIERS  BY  ANOTHER  PERILOUS  MARCH 
AT  NIGHT  —  MANSING  AGAIN  LOST—  A  MARVELLOUS  PHENOMENON  —  SUF- 
FERINGS OF  MY  MEN — SEVERE  COLD 23! 

CHAPTER    XXXVIII 

NIGHT   MARCHING — THE   LAFAN  AM)    MAFAN   LAKES — TJZE,   THE   SACRED    KELAS 

—  RHUBARB  —  BUTTERFLIES  —  A   HERMIT    LAMA  —  MORE    DACOITS  —  SUR- 
ROUNDED  BY   THEM — ROUTED 236 

CHAPTER   XXXIX 

SPIED  AND  FOLLOWED  BY  ROBBERS — JOGPAS*  HOSPITALITY — HARES — TIBETAN 
CHARMS  RESISTED— ATTEMPT  TO  SNATCH  CHANDEN  SING'S  RIFLE  OUT  OF 
HIS  HANDS — THE  RIDGE  BETWEEN  RAKASTAL  AND  MA.NSAROWAR  LAKES  .  243 

CHAPTER    XL 

MORE  ROBBERS  —  THE  FRIENDS  OF  TIBETAN  AUTHORITIES  —  A  SNAP-SHOT  —  A 
MEEK  LOT — PREPOSSESSING  FEMALE  AND  HER  CURIOUS  WAYS — THE  PUR- 
CHASE OF  TWO  YAKS 247 

CHAPTER   XLI 

TIBETAN  COATS,  HATS,  AND  BOOTS  —  WHY  A  TIBETAN  PREFERS  TO  LEAVE 
HALF  THE  CHEST  AND  ONE  ARM  BARE — ORNAMENTATIONS — MANNER  AND 
SPEECH  —  IGNORANCE  AND  SUPERSTITION  —  WAY  OF  EATING  —  JOGPA 
WOMEN  AND  CHILDREN — HEAD-DRESS 252 

xi 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER    XLII  PAGE 

A  DAKU'S  STRANGE  IDEAS  —  THE  RIDGE  BETWEEN  THE  TWO  LAKES  —  BLACK 
I  KNTS  —  CONFRONTING  THE  TWO  LAKES  —  A  CHAIN  OF  HIGH  PEAKS  — 
CHANGE  IN  THE  WEATHER 259 

CHAPTER   XLIII 

THE  LANGA  TSANGPO — A  TERRIFIC  STORM— DRENCHED  TO  THE  SKIN — HEAVY 
MARCHING — AGAINST  THE  GODS— DIFFICULTY  IN  FINDING  THE  LAMASERY 
\M>  VILLAGE — A  BARK! — ARRIVAL  AT  LAST — GENTLE  TAPPING — UNDER 
A  ROOF 264 

CHAPTER    XLIV 

THE   INTERIOR   OF   A  SERAI  —  VERMIN  —  FISH,    LOCAL  JEWELRY,   AND   POTTERY 

FOR   SALE— FAVORITE  SHAPES   AND   PATTERNS — HOW   POTTERY   IS   MADE    .    268 

CHAPTER   XLV 

FRIENDLY  LAMAS  —  CHANDEN  SING  AND  MANSING  PURIFIED  —  MANSING'S  SAR- 
CASM— PILGRIMS  TO  MANSAROWAR  AND  THEIR  PRIVILEGES — FOR  LUCK  !  — 
OUTSIDE  THE  GOMBA 2?2 

CHAPTER   XLVI 

ENTERING  THE  LAMASERY — THE  LAMA'S  DWELLING — NOVICES — WERE  WE  IN 
A  TRAP  ? — IMAGES — OBLATIONS — URCHIN — THE  HOLY  WATER,  THE  VEIL 
OF  FRIENDSHIP,  AND  ABSOLUTION  —  MUSICAL  INSTRUMENTS,  BOOKS,  ETC. 
— GOD  AND  THE  TRINITY — HEAVEN  AND  HELL — A  MYSTERY 275 

CHAPTER    XLVII 

THE  JONG  PEN'S  STATEMENTS  REGARDING  ME— SECTS  OF  LAMAS — LAMASERIES 
— GOVERNMENT  ALLOWANCE— IGNORANCE  OF  THE  CROWDS — HOW  LAMAS 
ARE  RECRUITED  —  LAMAS,  NOVICES,  AND  MENIALS  —  DANCES  AND  HYPNO- 
TISM— INFALLIBILITY — CELIBACY  AND  VICE — SCULPTORS — PRAYER-WHEELS 
AND  REVOLVING  INSTRUMENTS — NUNNERIES— HUMAN  BONES  FOR  EATING- 
VESSELS  AND  MUSICAL  INSTRUMENTS — BLOOD-DRINKING 28l 

CHAPTER   XLVIII 

ILLNESSES  AND  REMEDIES — CURIOUS  THEORIES  ABOUT  FEVER — EVIL  SPIRITS- 
BLACKSMITH  AND  DENTIST — EXORCISMS — SURGICAL  OPERATIONS — MASSAGE 
AND  CUPPING — INCURABLE  ILLNESSES  —  DEFORMITIES  —  DEAFNESS  —  FITS 
AND  INSANITY — MELANCHOLIA — SUICIDES 2QO 

CHAPTER   XLIX 

A  TIBETAN  MEDICINE  -  MAN  —  LUMBAGO,  AND  A  STARTLING  CURE  FOR  IT — 
COMBUSTIBLE  FUSEES  —  FIRE  AND  BUTTER — PRAYERS,  AGONY,  AND  DIS- 
TORTIONS— STRANGE  IDEAS  ON  MEDICINE 3OO 

CHAPTER   L 

TUCKER  VILLAGE — CHOKDENS — HOUSES — FLYING  PRAYERS — SOLDIERS  OR  ROB- 
BERS ? — A  STAMPEDE — FRESH  PROVISIONS — DISAPPOINTMENT — TREACHERY 
— SHOKAS  LEAVE  ME — OBSERVATIONS — FIVE  MEN,  ALL  COUNTED  .  .  .  304 

xii 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


A.  Henry  Savage  Landor  and  his  Two  Faithful  Ser-  / 

_ .     ,  >  .  Frontispiece 

vants.     Photogravure \ 

A  Chinese  Passport : I 

My  Start  from  Naini  Tal Facing  6 

Lepers "  8 

My  Faithful  Companion 10 

Castle  at  Pithoragarh 13 

RaOtS Facing  14 

My  Abode  at  Askote 15 

A  Young  Man 18 

Raot  on  Tree 19 

Head  of  Young  Man 21 

Two  Men  Sitting  Down  with  Children 23 

A  Young  Man 24 

Raot  Women  of  the  Forest 27 

The  Rajiwar  of  Askote,  his  Brother  and  Son 29 

Fakir  Returning  from  Mansarowar 30 

The  Rajiwar  and  his  Brother  in  Dandies 35 

Darma  Shokas  and  Tibetans 40 

Shoka  Weavers 48 

Shrine  and  Flying  Prayers 51 

House  of  a  Wealthy  Shoka Facing  52 

Wrinkled  Shoka 54 

Lai  Sing  Tokudar  and  his  Brother 55 

The  Tent 61 

Nerpani  Road 63 

The  Nerpani  Road 66 

The  Nerpani  Road 67 

The  Chai-Lek  Pass 68 

Narrow  Gorge  Between  Two  Mountains 69 

The  Gates  of  Garbyang 72 

Garbyang Facing  72 

Matan  Sing  Chaprassi — Narenghiri  Chaprassi 75 

xiii 


The  House  Where  I  Stayed  at  Garbyang 78 

Shoka  House  with  Strange  Ladder 79 

Shoka  Houses. 81 

Shoka  Child  Being  Smeared  with  Butter 85 

The  Master  of  a  High-school,  Altitude  10,940  Feet 86 

Gungi  Shankom 87 

Zazzela  Mount,  near  Gungi 89 

Chiram 9° 

Involuntary  Tobogganing Facing  90 

Shoka   Child  Smeared  with  Butter,  and   Left  to  Absorb  Butter   in 

the  Sun 91 

Kuti 93 

Snow  Bridges  Over  the  Kuti  River Facing  94. 

Old  Shoka  Woman  Smoking 95 

Chanden  Sing  and  the  Daku  Rolling  Up  my  Bedding    .....  96 

A  Well-attended  School '   .  98- 

My  Banker  and  Agent 101 

The  Valley  of  Garbyang 103 

Motema,  a  Shoka  Beauty ,    , 105 

On  the  Way  to  the  Rambang 106 

Shoka  Ear-rings 107 

Silver  Ear-rings  of  Tibetan  Origin,  with  Coral  Beads  ......  108 

Shoka  Woman  Weaving 109 

Rambang  Girls  with  Ornaments 1 1 1 

Weeping  Women  Under  White  Cloth 113 

Shoka  Funeral  Pile 114 

Dance  in  Front  of  Deceased  Man's  House Facing  116 

Women  Dusting  and  Caressing  the  Lay-figure 116 

Women  Dancing  Round  the  Lay-figure :     ....  117 

Martial  Dance  Round  Lay-figure Facing  1 1 8 

The  Goat,  with  Soul  of  Deceased,  Being  Fed 119 

Goat,  with  Soul  and  Clothes  of  Deceased 120 

Yak  Driven  Over  Precipice Facing  120 

Sending  the  Goat  Away  from  the  Village 121 

Tearing  Out  the  Heart  of  the  Goat 122 

Kachi  and  his  Relations 124 

The  Patan  Summoning  my  Coolies  from  the  Roof  of  his  House    .     .125 

The  Chongur  Bridge  Previous  to  Being  Destroyed 128 

A  Perilous  Passage Facing  130 

The  Photograph  that  Caused  the  Child's  Death 135 

Plan  of  Kuti  Castle 138 

Mansing,  the  Leper,  Showing  his  Hands 140 

The  Kuti  Castle Facing  142 

xiv 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PACE 

The  Jolinkan  or  Lebung  Pass U4 

Camping  in  Snow Facing  148 

The  Snow-line  at  16,000  Feet 151 

The  Mangshan  Glacier Facing  \  54 

"  I  Roused  the  Rongba  " 163 

Ascending  the  Lumpiya  Pass Facing  166 

The  Lumpiya  Glacier  and  Pass "       168 

Spied "       172 

My  Men  Salaaming  Kelas  at  Lama  Chokden "       176 

The  Arrival  of  Reinforcements "       186 

The  Barca  Tarjum  and  his  Officers "       190 

"At  Night  I   Led   my  Men   Up  the   Mountain  in  a  Fierce 

Snow-storm " "       204 

Buried  in  Snow "       210 

Dacoits  with  a  Booty  of  Sheep "       214 

Sheep  Carrying  Load 214 

Behind  Our  Bulwarks Facing  222 

Our  First  View  of  Rakastal 237 

Rakastal  and  Mansarowar  Lakes 238-239 

A  Dacoit 244 

The  Bandits  Laid  Down  Their  Arms Facing  248 

Pack-saddles  for  Yaks 250 

White  Woollen  Coat  and  Sashes ) 

Woollen  Socks i  253 

Man's  Boot,  Made  at  Sigatz 

Snow-boot 

Woman's  Boot 

Boot  Made  in  Lhassa J 

Hat  Worn  by  Officials 256 

A  Black  Yak 260 

My  Two  Yaks Facing  260 

Silver  Lhassa  Coins ) 

Copper  Coins v  269 

Ear-ring  Worn  by  Men ) 

Silver  Charm ) 

Gold-and-Malachite  Brooch \  . 

Mansarowar  Pottery 271 

Entrance  to  the  Tucker  Temple 276 

Stone  with  Inscription 286 

Stone  with  Inscription 287 

Prayer-wheels,  Ancient  and  Modern.     Showing  Rolls  of  Prayers  to 

Go  Inside 288 

Branch  with  Thorns  to  Prevent  Return  of  Evil  Spirits 294 

xv 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

A  Medicine-man 301 

Tucker  Village  and  Gomba Facing  304 

The  Panku  Gomba 306 


COLORED    PLATES 


View  of  the  Himahlyas.    Showing  Nanda  Devi  and  Trisul 

Peaks Facing     42 

Nerpani  Track "        66 

The  Spectre  and  Circular  Rainbow "       162 

A  Tibetan  Fortune-teller 270 


IN  THE  FORBIDDEN  LAND 


rt 


* 


4 

+  m 

S '  *.'  <*  4*  ft 

^  *f  /h  ^  3^ 

«  *  *  i  i 

#  *  #  £ 

•f  f   t 

i4  * 


£ 


A   CHINESE   PASSPORT 


IN  THE  FORBIDDEN  LAND 


CHAPTER   I 

FROM  LONDON  TO  NAINI  TAL 

ON  leaving  London,  I  intended  to  proceed  via  Ger- 
many to  Russia,  traverse  Russian  Turkestan,  Bokhara, 
and  Chinese  Turkestan,  and  from  there  enter  Tibet. 
The  Russian  Government  had  readily  granted  me  a  spe- 
cial permission  to  take  free  of  duty  through  their  terri- 
tory my  fire-arms,  ammunition,  provisions,  photographic 
cameras,  surveying  and  other  scientific  instruments,  and, 
i. — A  i 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

moreover,  informed  me,  through  His  Excellency  Sir  Nich- 
olas O'Conor,  then  our  Ambassador  in  St.  Petersburg,  that 
I  should  be  privileged  to  travel  on  the  military  railway 
through  Turkestan  as  far  as  the  terminus  at  Samarakand. 

O 

I  feel  under  a  great  obligation  to  the  Russian  Embassy 
in  London  for  the  extreme  courtesy  shown  me,  and  I 
desire  to  acknowledge  this  at  the  outset,  especially  be- 
cause that  route  might  very  likely  have  saved  me  much 
of  the  suffering  and  disappointment  I  was  subjected  to 
through  going  by  way  of  India. 

I  was  provided  with  introductions  and  credentials  from 
the  Marquis  of  Salisbury,  the  British  Museum  of  Natural 
History,  etc. ;  I  was  carrying  scientific  instruments  for 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  and  I  had  a  British  and 
two  Chinese  passports. 

Having  forwarded  all  my  explosives  by  an  ammuni- 
tion vessel  to  Russia  (the  German  railways  absolutely 
refusing  to  carry  cartridges),  I  heard,  to  my  dismay,  only 
a  few  days  previous  to  leaving  London,  that  the  steamer 
had  stranded  just  before  reaching  her  port  of  destination, 
and  that  grave  doubts  were  entertained  as  to  the  possi- 
bility of  saving  even  a  portion  of  her  cargo.  This  was 
at  the  time  of  the  outbreak  of  the  Turco-Greek  war,  and 
the  Russians  were  reported  to  be  mobilizing  their  troops 
along  the  Afghan  frontier.  I  did  not  wish  to  delay  my 
journey,  and  although  my  preparations  were  complete  for 
going  through  Russia,  I  nevertheless  decided  to  abandon 
that  plan  and  go  to  India,  with  a  view  to  penetrating  over 
the  Himahlya  into  Tibet.  I  sailed  for  India  on  March 
1 9th,  on  the  P.  &  O.  steamship  Peninsular,  and  reached 
Bombay  three  weeks  later. 

It  was  my  first  visit  to  India,  and  my  first  impression 
was  certainly  not  a  good  one.  The  heat  was  intense,  and 
signs  of  the  plague  were  discernible  everywhere.  The 


THE    PLAGUE 

streets  were  deserted,  and  the  hotels  bad  and  dirty  for 
want  of  servants,  who  had  abandoned  the  town  in  fear 
of  the  scourge. 

Accompanied  by  a  Parsee  friend,  I  went  to  several  of 
the  districts  of  Bombay  chiefly  affected  by  the  disease, 
but  I  noticed,  wherever  I  went,  little  else  than  a  strong 
odor  of  disinfectants.  It  is  true,  there  were  few  houses 
in  those  parts  which  had  not  ten,  twenty,  and  even  more 
circular  red  marks,  denoting  as  many  deaths,  and  on  one 
door,  which  I  photographed,  I  counted  no  less  than  forty- 
nine  circles.  But  I  was  unable  to  gauge  personally  with 
any  sort  of  accuracy  the  nature  or  extent  of  the  disease, 
beyond  seeing  in  the  hospitals  a  few  violent  cases  of  bu- 
bonic attacks. 

On  the  day  following  my  arrival  in  Bombay  I  pro- 
ceeded by  rail  to  Bareilly,  which  was  reached  in  three 
days,  and  from  there  one  more  night  brought  me  to 
Kathgodam,  the  terminus  of  the  railway  line.  Travel- 
ling partly  by  tonga  (a  two-wheeled  vehicle  drawn  by  two 
horses)  and  partly  on  horseback,  I  found  myself  at  last  at 
Naini  Tal,  a  hill  station  in  the  lower  Himahlyas,  and  the 
summer  seat  of  the  Government  of  the  Northwest  Prov- 
inces and  Oudh,  from  whence  I  wrote  to  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor,  informing  him  of  my  intention  to  proceed  to 
Tibet.  I  also  called  on  the  Deputy  Commissioner  and 
made  him  fully  acquainted  with  my  plans.  Neither  one 
nor  the  other  of  these  gentlemen  raised  the  slightest  ob- 
jection to  my  intended  journey  into  the  sacred  Land  of 
the  Lamas. 


CHAPTER   II 

LOADS— A  SET  OF  USEFUL  PACK-SADDLE  CASES — PROVISION'S  AND  SCIEN- 
TIFIC OUTFIT— CLOTHES  AND  SHOES— MEDICINES — UNDER  WAY — THE 
FIRST  MARCH  —  SERVANTS  —  HOW  I  CAME  TO  EMPLOY  FAITHFUL 
CHANDEN  SING 

I  KNEW  that  from  Naini  Tal,  6407  feet  (sixty  feet  above 
lake  level),  all  my  loads  would  have  to  be  transported  on 
the  backs  of  coolies,  and  therefore  they  had  to  be  divided 
into  equal  weights  not  exceeding  twenty-five  seers,  or  fifty 
pounds.  I  packed  instruments,  negatives,  and  articles  lia- 
ble to  get  damaged  in  cases  of  my  own  make,  designed 
especially  for  rough  usage.  A  set  of  four  such  cases,  of 
well-seasoned  deal  wood,  carefully  joined  and  fitted,  zinc- 
lined,  and  soaked  in  a  special  preparation  of  mine  by  which 
they  were  rendered  water  and  air  tight,  could  be  made  use- 
ful in  many  ways.  Taken  separately  they  could  be  used 
as  seats ;  four  placed  in  a  row  answered  the  purpose  of 
bedstead ;  three  could  be  used  as  seat  and  table ;  and  the 
combination  of  four,  used  in  a  certain  manner,  made  a 
punt  or  boat  of  quick,  solid,  and  easy  construction,  by 
which  an  unfordable  river  could  be  crossed  or  soundings 
taken  in  the  still  waters  of  a  lake.  The  cases  could  also 
be  used  as  baths  for  myself  and  my  followers  (if  I  could 
induce  these  to  so  far  indulge),  and  also,  in  the  develop- 
ing of  my  negatives,  as  tanks  to  properly  wash  my  plates. 
I  conjectured  even  that  in  case  of  emergency  they  might 
serve  as  water-casks  in  arid  regions,  if  I  should  have  to 
traverse  any.  One  of  these  boxes  packed  was  exactly  a 
coolie  load,  and  two  could  be  easily  slung  over  a  pack- 

4 


A   SET   OF    USEFUL   CASES 

saddle  by  means  of  straps  and  rings.  It  was  due  mainly 
to  the  stoutness  and  strength  of  these  cases  that,  notwith- 
standing the  amount  of  knocking  about  they  got,  my  pho- 
tographic and  painting  work,  as  well  as  my  maps,  instru- 
ments, etc.,  were  really  in  no  way  injured  until  we  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Tibetans.  Fortunately,  the  most  im- 
portant part  of  my  work,  from  a  scientific  point  of  view, 
had  already  been  accomplished.  My  provisions  were 
prepared  for  me  by  the  Bovril  Company,  after  instruc- 
tions furnished  by  me,  with  a  view  to  the  severe  Tibetan 
climate  and  the  altitudes  we  should  find  ourselves  in. 
They  contained  a  vast  amount  of  fat  and  carbonaceous 
food,  as  well  as  ingredients  easily  digestible  and  calcu- 
lated to  maintain  one's  strength  even  in  moments  of  un- 
usual stress.  I  had  them  packed  in  tin  cases  and  skin 
bags.  I  carried  in  a  water-tight  box  1000  cartridges  for 
my  .256  Mannlicher  rifle,  besides  500  cartridges  for  my 
revolver,  and  a  number  of  hunting-knives,  skinning  imple- 
ments, wire  traps  of  several  sizes  for  capturing  small 
mammals,  butterfly  nets,  bottles  for  preserving  reptiles  in 
alcohol,  insect- killing  bottles  (cyanide  of  potassium),  a 
quantity  of  arsenical  soap,  bone  nippers,  scalpels,  and  all 
other  accessories  necessary  for  the  collection  of  natural- 
history  specimens.  There  were  three  sets  of  photographic 
apparatus  in  my  outfit,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty-eight 
dozen  dry  plates,  as  well  as  all  adjuncts  for  the  devel- 
oping, fixing,  etc.,  of  the  negatives  as  they  were  taken. 
The  collecting  materials  were  given  me  by  the  British 
Museum  of  Natural  History,  to  which  institution  I  had 
promised  to  present  all  specimens  of  fauna  and  flora 
I  might  collect  during  my  journey.  I  had  two  sets  of 
instruments  for  astronomical  observation  and  for  use 
in  surveying  (one  of  which  had  been  furnished  me  by 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society),  such  as  the  six -inch 

5 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

sextant,  hypsometrical  apparatus  for  measuring  heights, 
with  boiling-point  thermometers  specially  constructed  for 
very  great  altitudes;  two  aneroids,  one  to  20,000  feet,  the 
other  to  25,000  feet ;  three  artificial  horizons  (one  mercury, 
the  others  plate-glass  with  levels);  a  powerful  telescope 
with  astronomical  eye-piece  and  stand  ;  a  prismatic,  a 
luminous,  a  floating,  and  two  pocket  compasses;  maximum 
and  minimum  thermometers;  a  case  of  drawing-instru- 
ments, protractors,  parallel  rules,  tape  rules,  a  silver  water- 
tight half -chronometer  watch  and  three  other  watches, 

O 

section  paper  in  books  and  in  large  sheets,  Rapers  and 
the  Nautical  Almanac  for  1897  and  1898. 

Not  to  neglect  the  artistic  aspect  of  my  expedition,  I 
had  provided  myself  with  ample  painting  and  drawing 
materials,  and  I  trust  to  the  appearance  of  my  sketches  in 
these  volumes  to  prove  that  I  did  not  carry  them  in  vain. 

I  was  provided  with  a  very  light  mountain  tente  d'abri, 
seven  feet  long,  four  feet  wide,  and  three  feet  high.  Well 
accustomed  to  the  sort  of  travelling  I  was  in  for,  I  decided 
that  I  required  for  myself  only  a  camel-hair  blanket  in  the 
way  of  bedding.  I  reduced  my  clothing  also  to  a  min- 
imum, and  made  no  difference  in  it  from  start  to  finish. 
The  only  thing  I  ever  missed  was  my  straw  hat,  which 
I  wore  up  in  the  Himahlyas  just  as  I  had  worn  it  on 
the  broiling  plains,  because  it  seemed  to  me  always  the 
most  comfortable  headgear.  It  was  rendered  unwearable 
through  the  clumsiness  of  one  of  my  Shokas,  to  whom 
I  had  lent  it  to  carry  in  it  some  swan  eggs  (presented 
by  a  friendly  Shoka),  and  who  fell  with  it,  or  on  it,  to 
the  detriment  and  destruction  both  of  vessel  and  load. 
After  that  I  generally  went  about  with  my  head  uncov- 
ered, as  I  only  had  a  small  cap  left,  which  was  not  com- 
fortable. I  wore  medium  thick  shoes  without  nails,  and 
never  carried  a  stick,  and  I  think  it  was  clue  largely  to 

6 


the  simplicity  of  my  personal  equipment  that  I  was  able,  as 
will  be  seen  presently,  to  climb  to  one  of  the  greatest  alti- 
tudes ever  reached  by  a  human  being.* 

My  provision  of  medicines  cost  me  only  half  a  crown, 
firm  as  I  am  in  the  belief  that  man,  living  naturally  under 
natural  conditions,  and  giving  himself  plenty  of  exercise, 
can  be  helped  very  little  by  drugs. 

And  thus  I  started. 

On  the  first  day  I  rode  from  Naini  Tal  to  Almora, 
thirty  miles  by  the  lower  and  well  -  known  road  via 
Khairna. 

Almora  (5510  feet)  is  the  last  hill  station  towards  the 
frontier  where  I  expected  to  find  a  European,  or  rather 
an  Anglo  -  Indian,  community,  and  I  made  it  my  head- 
quarters for  a  few  days.  It  was  my  intention  to  obtain 
some  reliable  hill  men,  possibly  Gourkhas,  to  accompany 
me.  I  applied  in  vain  for  this  purpose  to  the  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  of  the  ist  3d  Gourkha  Regiment  quartered  in 
the  station,  duly  showing  letters,  introductions,  and  docu- 
ments, from  the  highest  authorities  and  institutions  in 
England,  plainly  demonstrating  the  scientific  object  of 
my  journey  to  Tibet. 

The  superior  authorities  seemed  open  to  negotiations 
had  I  been  able  to  afford  a  wait  of  several  months;  but, 
as  this  would  have  involved  the  postponement  of  my 
journey  for  a  year,  on  account  of  the  passes  leading  into 
Tibet  becoming  impassable  at  the  end  of  the  summer,  I 
decided  to  snap  my  fingers  at  all  the  red  tape  the  job  re- 
quired, and  to  start  on  my  journey  without  the  Gourkhas. 

As  luck  would  have  it,  I  came  across  a  gentleman  at 
Almora,  a  Mr.  J.  Larkin,  who  showed  me  great  polite- 
ness and  gave  me  much  useful  information  with  re- 

*  See  Appendix.     Letter  by  Dr.  H.  Wilson. 
7 


IN   THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

gard  to  the  roads,  the  mode  of  travelling,  etc.,  on  the 
British  side  of  the  Tibetan  frontier.  He  had  himself 
travelled  nearly  up  to  the  boundary  the  previous  year, 
and  knew  that  part  of  Kumaon  better  than  any  Anglo- 
Indian  in  the  province.  In  fact,  with  the  exception  of 
Colonel  Grigg,  Commissioner  of  Kumaon,  Mr.  Larkin 
is  the  only  other  official  who  has  any  knowledge  at  all 
of  the  northeast  of  Kumaon,  now  so  neglected  by  the 
Government  of  the  Northwest  Provinces. 

Gourkhas  being  unobtainable,  the  question  weighed 
heavily  on  my  mind  of  obtaining  plucky,  honest,  wiry, 
healthy  servants,  of  whatever  caste  they  might  be,  who 
would  be  ready,  for  the  sake  of  a  good  salary  and  a  hand- 
some reward,  to  brave  the  many  discomforts,  hardships, 
and  perils  my  expedition  was  likely  to  involve.  Both  at 
Naini  Tal  and  here  scores  of  servants  and  Shikaris 
(sporting  attendants)  offered  themselves.  They  one  and 
all  produced  "  certificates  "  of  good  conduct,  irreproacha- 
ble honesty,  good  -  nature,  and  willingness  to  work,  and 
praises  unbounded  of  all  possible  virtues  that  a  servant 
could  possess.  Each  certificate  was  duly  ornamented 
with  the  signature  of  a  General,  a  Captain,  a  Lieutenant- 
Governor,  or  some  other  considerable  personage,  but 
each  bearer  of  such  testimonial  seemed  sadly  neglected 
by  those  who  had  been  so  enthusiastically  pleased  with 
his  services,  for  he  invariably  commenced  by  asking  for 
a  loan  of  several  rupees  to  purchase  boots  and  blankets, 
and  to  enable  him  to  support  a  wife  with  or  without  a 
family  whom  he  would  be  leaving  behind. 

I  decided  that  my  means  did  not  permit  of  my  sup- 
porting "  the  dear  ones  at  home "  of  the  two  or  three 
dozen  followers  I  should  require,  and  I  made  up  my 
mind  to  wait  and  see  whether  I  could  not  find  men  to 
suit  me  farther  on  my  road  without  involving  myself  in 

8 


MY    FAITHFUL    COMPANION 

the  liability  of  supporting  the  entire  population  I  left  be- 
hind me.  I  made  only  one  exception.  I  was  sitting 
one  fine  day  in  my  room  at  the  Dak  Bungalow  (post 
resting-house)  when  an  odd  creature  entered  and  offered 
his  services,  salaaming  me. 

"  Where  are  your  certificates  ?"  I  asked. 

"  Sahib,  hum  'certificates'  ne  hai"  (Sir,  I  have  no  cer- 
tificates.) 

"  Well,  then  I  may  employ  you." 

I  had  previously  had  a  good  look  at  the  fellow.  His 
facial  lines  showed  considerably  more  character  and  force 
than  I  had  noticed  in  the  features  of  other  local  natives. 
His  attire  was  peculiar.  He  wore  a  white  turban,  and 
from  under  a  short  velvet  waistcoat  there  protruded  a 
gaudy  flannel  shirt  in  yellow  and  black  stripes,  which  he 
wore  oddly  outside  of  his  pajamas  instead  of  in  them. 
He  had  no  shoes,  and  carried  in  his  right  hand  an  old 
cricket  stump,  with  which  he  "  presented  arms,"  as  it 
were,  every  time  that  I  came  in  and  went  out  of  the 
room.  I  at  once  decided  to  try  him.  It  was  about  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning  when  I,  having  many  people  to 
see,  handed  Chanden  Sing,  for  that  was  his  name,  a  pair 
of  shoes  and  some  blacking. 

"  Mind  I  find  them  clean  when  I  return." 

"  Acha,  Sahib T  (All  right,  sir!) 

"  You  will  find  some  brushes  in  my  room." 

"  Bahut  acha,  Sahib  /"  (Very  good,  sir !) 

I  left.  At  six  P.M.,  when  I  returned  to  my  quarters,  I 
found  Chanden  Sing  still  polishing  my  footgear  with  all 
his  might.  He  had  been  at  it  the  whole  day,  and  had 
used  for  the  purpose  my  best  hair  and  clothes  brushes. 

"Oh,  you  budmdsh  !  crab  log !  pagaU"  (Oh,  you  bad 
character !  bad  man  !  fool ! )  I  exclaimed,  disgusted,  mak- 
ing as  much  display  as  possible  of  the  only  three  or 

9 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 


four  words  I  then  knew  of  Hindustani.  I  snatched  the 
blackened  articles  of  toilet  out  of  his  hands,  while  he,  with 
an  air  of  wounded  feelings,  pointed  out  the  wonderful  re- 
sults he  had  achieved. 

It  was  clear  that  Chanden  Sing  was  not  much  a  valet, 
neither  was  he  a  master  at  opening  soda-water  bottles. 

He  generally  managed  to 
give  you  a  spray-bath,  if  he 
did  not  actually  shoot  the 
flying  cork  in  your  face.  It 
was  owing  to  one  (by  no 
means  the  first)  of  these  ac- 
cidents that  Chanden  Sinor 

Or 

having  hit  me  full,  was  a 
few  days  later  flung  bodily 
out  of  the  front  door.  I 
am  very  adverse  to  the  hab- 
it of  punishing  the  natives 
injudiciously  and  unjustly, 
but  I  believe  that  firm  if 
not  too  severe  a  punishment 
administered  in  time  is  ab- 
solutely necessary  with  na- 
tive servants,  and  generally 
saves  much  trouble  and  un- 

MY  FAITHFUL  COMPANION         pleasantness   in   the   end. 

Anyhow,   Chanden    Sing, 

none  the  worse,  returned  the  next  day  to  get  his  cricket 
stump,  which  he  had  forgotten  in  his  hurried  and  in- 
voluntary departure.  He  seized  this  opportunity  to  offer 
his  humblest  apologies  for  his  clumsiness,  and  produced 
the  following  letter,  which  he  had  got  written  in  English 
by  a  Babu  in  the  Bazaar : 


10 


FAITHFUL   CHANDEN   SING 

"  DEAR  SIR, — I  am  a  stupid  man,  but  I  hear  you  intend  to  take  two- 
Gourkha  soldiers  with  you  to  Tibet.  I  am  a  good  and  very  stout  man,  and 
therefore  far  superior  to  any  Gourkha.  Please  employ  me. 

"  Your  faithful  servant, 

"CHANDEN  SlNG." 

This  was  touching,  and  I  forgave  him  and  allowed 
him  to  stay.  He  improved  as  time  went  on,  and  after  a 
while  became  quite  tolerable.  One  morning  Mr.  Larkin 
called  when  Chanden  Sing  happened  to  be  about. 

"Who  is  that?"  said  Larkin. 

"  That  is  my  bearer." 

"  But  he  is  not  a  bearer.  He  was  once  a  policeman, 
and  a  smart  fellow,  too.  He  worked  out  a  good  case  in 
his  own  village,  and  had  many  people  arrested  and  con- 
victed for  theft.  As  a  reward  they  sacked  him." 

"  I  am  thinking  of  taking  him  with  me." 

"  He  is  a  good  lad,"  replied  Mr.  Larkin.  "  You  can, 
anyhow,  take  him  as  far  as  the  frontier,  but  I  would  not 
advise  you  to  take  him  into  Tibet." 

Mr.  Larkin  counselled  Chanden  Sing  to  be  diligent 
and  attentive,  and  the  ex-policeman  beamed  all  over  with 
joy  when  I  told  him  definitely  that  he  might  accompany 
me  to  Bhot.  He  turned  out  to  be  the  one  plucky  man 
among  all  my  followers,  and  he  stood  by  me  through 
thick  and  thin. 


CHAPTER   III 

PITHORAGARH — FAKIR  WOMEN— A  WELL-VENTILATED  ABODE— ASKOTE— 
THE    RAJIWAR   AND    HIS   PEOPLE 

THE  country  up  to  Bhot  is  comparatively  well  known, 
therefore  I  will  not  dwell  at  length  on  the  first  portion  of 
my  journey. 

On  May  gth  all  my  baggage,  accompanied  by  two 
Chaprassis,  left  on  its  way  to  the  frontier,  and  I  followed 
on  the  next  day.  Two  days'  marching,  at  the  rate  'of 
twenty-five  miles  a  day,  brought  me  to  Shor,  otherwise 
called  Pithoragarh. 

The  road  is  good  all  the  way,  running  through  thick 
forests  of  pine  and  fir  trees,  and  you  get  here  and  there 
pretty  views  of  wooded  mountain  ranges.  Nevertheless, 
it  is  tiring,  owing  to  the  many  ascents  and  descents,  as 
will  be  seen  from  the  following  figures  showing  the 
principal  elevations.  From  5510  feet  we  climbed  to 
7650  feet,  descended  to  2475  feet,  climbed  again  up  to 
•6020  feet  at  Gangoli  Hat,  and  redescended  by  a  steep  in- 
cline to  2500  feet.  The  intense  heat  prevented  me  from 
walking  at  my  usual  pace,  and  I  did  not,  therefore,  reach 
my  destination  before  sundown.  Walking  on  in  the 
•dark,  we  saw  the  distant  flickering  forest  fires  crawling 
here  and  there  like  incandescent  snakes  along  or  up  the 
mountain-side ;  these  are  caused  by  the  igniting  of  the 
grass,  shrubs,  and  undergrowth  by  the  natives,  the  flames 
not  unfrequently  spreading  and  playing  havoc  among  the 
finest  trees  of  the  forest. 

12 


CASTLE   AT    PITHORAGARH 

At  Pithoragarh  (6650  feet)  there  is  the  old  Loudon 
Gourkha  fort  to  be  seen,  on  a  hill  -  top,  also  a  well-kept 
leper  hospital,  a  school,  and  a  mission-house.  The  soil 
is  fertile,  and  there  are  many  stretches  of  well-cultivated 
land  dotted  with  habitations.  Water  is  plentiful,  and 
though  the  scenery  certainly  lacks  trees  except  in  the 
immediate  neighborhood  of  the  villages  and  houses,  it 
has,  nevertheless,  a  certain  picturesqueness  on  account  of 


CASTLE   AT  PITHORAGARH 

its  background  of  wooded  mountains.  I  started  from 
Pithoragarh  at  6.30  A.M.;  leaving  the  road  to  Tal  on  the 
left,  I  followed  the  track  at  a  medium  elevation  of  6250 
feet,  arriving  at  Shadgora  (6350  feet)  just  in  time  to 
witness  the  blessing  of  a  calf  by  a  Brahmin.  Inside  a 
diminutive  shrine  —  into  the  door  of  which  I  was  curi- 
ous enough  to  peep — I  discovered  two  skinny,  repulsive 
old  women,  with  sunken,  discolored  eyes,  untidy  locks  of 
scanty  hair,  long,  unwashed,  bony  arms  and  legs,  and  fin- 
ger and  toe  nails  of  abnormal  length.  They  were  clad  in 
a  few  dirty  rags,  and  were  busily  attending  to  the  lights 
burning  on  several  primitive  stone  candlesticks  along  the 
walls  of  the  shrine.  There  were  also  some  curiously 
shaped  stones  standing  upright  among  the  candlesticks. 
The  ceiling  of  this  place  of  worship  was  not  high  enough 
i.— B  13 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

to  allow  the  women  to  stand,  and  they  were  compelled  to 
crawl  about  inside  on  all  fours.  When  they  saw  me  they 
stretched  out  their  angular  arms  towards  me,  begging  for 
money.  I  gave  them  a  silver  coin,  which  they  shoved 
under  one  of  the  peculiar  stones,  and  then,  turning 
round,  immediately  made  violent  gestures  suggesting  to 
me  that  I  was  to  depart. 

Farther  on  I  came  upon  a  point  where  three  roads 
branched  off — to  Deolthal  (six  miles)  on  the  left,  to  Askote 
(twelve  and  three  -  quarter  miles)  in  the  centre,  and  to 
Pithoragarh  (eleven  and  a  quarter  miles),  a  different 
route  from  the  one  followed,  on  the  right.  I  took  the 
middle  one,  and  travelled  on  in  a  storm  of  hail  and 
wind  with  a  constant  deafening  roar  of  thunder  and 
splendid  flashes  of  lightning,  which  produced  magical 
effects  on  the  ever -changing  and  fantastic  clouds  and 
the  weird  mountain- sides  along  which  I  ploughed  my 
way. 

I  arrived  late  in  the  evening  at  Askote,  where  there 
is  neither  Dak  Bungalow  nor  Daramsalla,*  and  found  to 
my  disgust  that  none  of  my  carriers  had  yet  arrived.  I 
was  offered  hospitality  by  Pundit  Jibanand,  who  put  me 
up  in  his  school-room,  a  structure  consisting  of  a  number 
of  planks  put  together  regardless  of  width,  height,  length, 
or  shape,  and  supporting  a  roof  of  straw  and  grass.  The 
ventilation  of  my  abode  was  all  one  could  wish  for,  and 
as  during  the  night  I  lay  wrapped  up  in  my  blanket 
under  the  sheltering  roof  I  could  admire  through  the 
disconnected  portions  of  the  walls  the  brilliancy  of  the 
star-studded  heaven  above.  When  the  sun  arose,  bits  of 
scenery  appeared  between  plank  and  plank,  until  by  de- 

*  Daramsalla,  a  stone-walled  shelter  for  the  use  of  travellers  and 
natives. 

14 


ASKOTE 


grees  the  gaps  were  all  stopped  up  by  figures  of  natives, 
who  took  possession  of  these  points  of  vantage  to  gaze  to 
their  hearts'  content  on  the  sahib,  who,  with  signs  of 
evident  suspense  on  the  part  of  these  spectators,  managed 
even  to  shave.  Hilarity,  on  the  other  hand,  was  caused 
when  I  smeared  myself  all  over  with  soap  while  bathing- 
Admiration  followed  __^ 

at  my  putting  on  my 
last  starched  shirt 
and  other  mysterious 
garments,  but  the  ex- 
citement grew  al- 

O 

most  to  fever-heat 
when  I  went  through 
the  daily  nuisance  of 
winding  up  m  y 
watches  and  res;is- 

O 

tering  daily  observa- 
tions of  temperature, 

etc.  The  strain  was  too  much,  I  fancy,  and  a  general 
stampede  followed  the  moment  I  touched  my  unloaded 
rifle. 

The  town  of  Askote  is  not  unlike  an  old  feudal  castle 
such  as  are  found  in  many  parts  of  Central  Italy.  Perched 
on  the  crown  of  a  central  hill,  the  Rajiwar's  palace  over- 
looks a  fine  panorama  of  mountains  encircling  it  on  all 
sides.  Among  the  higher  peaks  discernible  from  the 
palace  are  the  Chipla  Mountain  and  the  Dafia.  Then 
across  the  Kali  River,  forming  the  boundary  of  Nepal,  is 
Mount  Dooti.  The  "gown?  or  town,  itself  numbers  some 
two  hundred  houses  scattered  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  and 
includes  a  school,  a  post-office,  and  two  Mahommedan 
shops.  The  Raj i war  had  on  my  arrival  just  completed 
building  a  new  Court,  a  simple  and  dignified  structure  of 

15 


MY   ABODE  AT  ASKOTE 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

brown  stone,  with  fine  wooden  carvings  on  the  windows 
and  doors,  and  with  chimneys  in  European  fashion  in 
each  room.  One  wall  in  each  room  was  left  open,  and 
formed  a  charming  veranda,  commanding  a  magnificent 
view  of  mountain  scenery. 

The  Rajiwar  of  Askote  occupies  a  unique  position  in 
Kumaon.  Having  repurchased  his  right  to  the  tenure  of 
land  in  the  Askote  Pargana  as  late  as  1855,  he  now  pos- 
sesses the  right  of  zamindar  (translated  literally,  landed 
proprietor],  and  he  is  the  only  person  to  whom  it  has  been 
granted  to  retain  this  privilege  in  the  Kumaon  Division. 
Jagat  Sing  Pal,  the  Rajiwar's  nephew,  assured  me  that 
the  people  of  the  Askote  Pargana  are  brave  and  good- 
natured.  They  never  give  any  trouble  to  the  Rajiwar, 
who,  on  the  other  hand,  is  almost  a  father  to  them.  They 
apply  to  him  in  every  difficulty,  in  sickness  and  distress, 
and  he  looks  after  them  in  true  patriarchal  fashion.  The 
Rajiwar  is  not  rich,  probably  because  he  spends  so  much 
for  the  benefit  of  his  people  and  of  the  strangers  who 
pass  through  Askote.  Many  of  these  are  little  more  than 
beggars,  of  course,  even  when  they  travel  as  fakirs,  or 
other  religious  fanatics,  going  to  or  returning  from  the 
sacred  Mansarowar  Lake  in  Tibet.  The  present  Rajiwar,* 
Pushkar  Pal,  belongs  to  the  Ramchanda  family,  and  he  is 
a  descendant  of  the  Solar  dynasty.  His  ancestors  lived 
in  Aoudh,  or  Ayodye  (as  it  was  formerly  called),  whence 
they  migrated  to  the  hills  of  Katyur  in  Kumaon,  where 
they  built  a  palace.  The  hill  regions  up  to  Killakanjia 
and  the  Jumna  River  were  under  the  Raja  of  Katyur's 
rule,  he  assuming  the  title  of  Maharaja.  A  branch  of  the 
family  came  from  Katyur  to  Askote,  its  chief  retaining 
the  hereditary  title  of  Rajiwar  besides  that  of  Pal,  which 

*  Rajiwar  (head  of  kingdom). 
16 


THE    RAJIWAR   AND    HIS    PEOPLE 

each  male  assumes.  The  Rajiwar  pays  a  yearly  tribute 
of  1800  rupees  to  the  Government  of  India.  In  the  time 
of  the  Gourkhas  he  paid  nothing  except  occasional  gifts 
of  Nafas,  or  musk-deer,  to  his  neighbor  the  King  of 
Nepal,  with  whom  he  is  still  in  very  close  relation.  He 
was  then  practically  an  independent  king.  Still,  Rajiwar 
Pushkar  Pal  has  always  been  perfectly  loyal  to  the  Gov- 
ernment of  India. 

"Are  the  people  very  obsequious  to  the  Rajiwar?"  I 
asked  of  Jagat  Sing  Pal. 

"  Yes,  sir.  For  instance,  when  the  Rajiwar  sits  on  his 
Karoka  (a  kind  of  throne)  he  is  saluted  with  a  particularly 
respectful  salaam.  His  subjects  bring  their  hand  up  to 
the  forehead  and  support  the  elbow  with  the  left  hand,  as 
a  sign  that  this  salutation  is  so  weighty  that  it  requires 
the  support  of  the  other  hand." 

At  Court  functions  the  male  relatives,  friends,  and  ser- 
vants sit  near  the  Rajiwar,  his  brother  first,  his  son  next, 
then  his  nephews,  etc.  Women  are  of  course  not  admitted, 
and  although  no  strict  code  of  etiquette  exists,  the  Raji- 
war and  his  family  are  nevertheless  always  treated  with 
Eastern  deference. 

17 


CHAPTER   IV 


THE  RAOTS— A  SLIPPERY  JOURNEY— SUPERSTITIOUS  NOTIONS— ANGER 
AND  JEALOUSY— FRIENDS— TO  THE  HOMES  OF  THE  SAVAGES— PHO- 
TOGRAPHY— HABITATIONS. 

WE  had  walked  seventy-eight  miles  in  three  marches, 
and  my  men  being  footsore,  I  gave  them  a  day's  rest, 
which  I  employed  in  going  to  the  haunts  of 
the  "Wild  men  of  the  forest,"  or  Raots  or 
Rajis,  as  they  style  themselves.     They  live 
in  the  woods  several  miles  off,  and  to  reach 
them  I  had  to  descend  a  steep  incline  covered 
by  an  uncommonly  slippery  carpet  of  dried 
grass  and  pine-needles.     I  had  to  take  off 
shoes  and  stockings  to  get  along,  and  even 
barefooted  I  found  it  difficult  to  maintain 
my  hold.     I  was  accompanied  by  one  of  my 
chaprassis  and  a  man  from  Askote,  and  we 
were  forced  down  more  swiftly  than  comfort- 
ably till  we  reached  a  faint  track,  which  we 
followed  until  we  came  upon  a  man  hiding 
behind  some  trees.     He  was  a  wild-looking 
creature,  naked  and  unkempt,  with  flowing 
hair  and  scanty  beard  and  mustache,  and,  regarding  us 
with  an  air  of  suspicion,  he  was  most  reluctant  to  show 
us  the  way  to  the  homes  of  his  tribe.     He  was  a  Raot, 
and  his  reluctance  to  let  us  approach  his  home  seemed 
justified  enough  when  he  said  to  my  guide,  "  No  white 
man  has  ever  visited  our  home,  and  should  one  ever  come 
we  shall  all  die.     The  spirits  of  the  mountains  will  pre- 

18 


A  YOUNG  MAN 


A    STIFF   CLIMB 


vent  your  progress— not  we.  You  will  suffer  pain,  for 
the  spirit  who  watches  over  the  Raots  will  let  no  one 
enter  their  homes." 

I  gave  the  man  a  rupee,  which  he  turned  and  weighed 
in  his  hand. 

"  You  can  come,"  he 
muttered,  "  but  you  will 
regret  it.  You  will  have 
great  misfortunes." 

There  was  something  so 
weirdly  peculiar  in  the  tone 
of  voice  in  which  the  man 
spoke,  as  if  he  had  been  in 
a  trance,  himself  only  the 
channel  through  which  the 
threat  of  some  occult  beinsr 

O 

was  conveyed  to  us,  that  for 
some  minutes  I  could  not 
get  his  words  out  of  my 
head.  I  followed  him  as 
best  I  could,  for  he  climbed 
up  huge  bowlders  with  the 
agility  of  a  monkey.  It  was 

no  easy  job,  for  we  bounded  and  leaped  from  rock  to  rock 
and  vaulted  over  fallen  trees.  The  track  became  more 
marked  and  went  up  along  the  incline  of  a  steep  ravine. 
We  continued  until,  hot  and  panting,  we  arrived  at  a 
large  hollow  high  up  in  the  cliff  of  clay.  There,  on  a 
semicircular  platform,  with  intrenchments  of  felled  trees, 
were  about  a  dozen  men  almost  devoid  of  clothing,  some 
sitting  on  their  heels  and  resting  their  arms  on  their 
knees,  others  lying  down  flat.  One  fellow  smoked  dry 
leaves  inside  a  pipe  of  Hindoo  origin.  I  snatched  a 
photo  of  the  group  as,  with  an  air  of  suspicion  mingled 


RAOT   ON   TREE 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

with  surprise  and  sadness,  but  no  apparent  fear,  they 
stared  at  the  unexpected  visitors.  Two  of  the  elder 
men,  having  overcome  their  first  stupor,  sprang  to  their 
feet,  and  with  mad  gesticulations  refused  to  let  me 
come  nearer.  But  I  penetrated  right  into  their  circle, 
and  found  myself  surrounded  by  a  sulky  and  angry 
crowd. 

"  No  man  has  ever  been'  here  but  a  Raot.  You  will 
soon  die.  You  have  offended  God !"  screamed  an  old 
man  in  a  sudden  outburst  of  temper.  He  bent  his  knees 
and  curved  his  spine,  protruding  his  head  towards  me. 
He  shook  his  fists  in  my  face,  waved  them  about  in  the 
air,  opened  and  tightly  clinched  them,  digging  his  nails 
furiously  into  his  palms.  Instead  of  contracting  the  scalp 
of  his  forehead,  the  old  Raot  raised  his  eyebrows  and 
turned  his  polished  forehead  into  a  succession  of  deep 
wrinkles,  stretching  in  a  straight  line  across  almost  from 
ear  to  ear,  and  showing  only  a  dark  dimple  over  his  nose. 
His  nostrils,  flat  and  broad  to  begin  with,  became  widely 
expanded  and  raised  so  as  to  cause  two  deep  lines  to  di- 
verge from  the  nose  along  his  cheeks.  His  mouth  was 
open,  and  a  peculiar  vacillation  of  the  lower  lip  demon- 
strated plainly  that  its  owner  had  but  little  command  over 
speech  and  articulation.  His  eyes,  which  may  have  been 
brown  originally,  were  discolored,  probably  through  the 
abuse  of  excessive  animal  powers,  to  the  possession  of 
which  the  formation  of  his  skull  strongly  testified ;  but 
they  assumed  extraordinary  brilliancy  as  his  fury  in- 
creased. He  opened  them  wide,  apparently  with  an  effort, 
and  showed  the  entire  circle  of  his  iris.  The  pupils  were 
dilated,  notwithstanding  that  the  light  upon  his  face  was 
strong  at  the  time. 

Following  his  example,  some  of  the  rest  displayed  their 
discontent  in  a  similar  fashion,  but  others,  among  whom  I 

20 


STUDYING   JEALOUS    RAOTS 


especially  noticed  two  youths  with  sad,  languishing  faces, 
drooping  large  eyes,  and  luxuriant  growth  of  black  hair, 
stood    apathetically   apart,  with   head   reclining    towards 
the  right  shoulder,  their  features  perfectly  composed,  and 
supporting  their  chins  on  their  hands.     Even  if  they  had 
overcome  their  stupor, 
they  certainly  did   not 
betray  it,  and  appeared 
perfectly   emotionless 
as  far  as  their  counte- 
nances were  concerned. 
One  fellow  with   an 
extraordinary    head,    a 
mixture  it  seemed  of  a 
Mongolian    and  a  Ne- 
groid type,  was  the  first 
to  calm  himself  of  those 
who  were  so  madly  ex- 
cited.     With    piercing 
though   unsteady  eyes, 
and    with    nervous, 
twitching    movements, 

he  scrutinized  my  face  more  closely  than  the  others,  and 
seemed  to  reassure  them  all  that  I  had  not  come  to  hurt 
them.  He  made  signs  to  the  rest  to  desist  from  their 
threats,  and  then,  squatting  down  himself,  invited  me  to 
follow  his  example  by  sitting  on  my  heels.  When  the 
storm  had  subsided  and  they  had  all  sat  down,  I  drew  out 
of  my  pocket  some  coins  and  gave  one  to  each  of  them, 
with  the  exception  of  one  man,  on  whom  I  thought  I 
might  study  the  passion  of  jealousy  in  its  most  primitive 
form.  I  watched  the  man  closely,  and  soon  saw  him  draw 
apart  from  the  others  and  become  sulky.  The  others 
were  by  now  comparatively  calm.  They  seemed  predis- 

21 


HEAD  OF  YOUNG  MAN 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

posed  towards  sadness,  and  I  could  with  difficulty  extract 
from  any  of  them  more  than  a  very  faint  sort  of  smile. 
They  turned  and  twisted  the  coins  in  their  hands,  and 
compared  them  among  one  another,  jabbering  and  ap- 
parently content.  The  jealous  man  kept  his  head  turned 
away  from  them  determinedly,  pretending  not  to  see  what 
was  going  on,  and,  resting  his  chin  on  his  hand,  he  be- 
gan to  sing  a  weird,  melancholy,  guttural  song,  assum- 
ing an  air  of  contempt,  especially  when  the  others  chaffed 
him.  Having  allowed  him  to  suffer  enough,  I  gave  him 
two  coins  instead  of  one,  and  with  them  the  satisfaction 
of  the  last  grin. 

I  then  tried  to  photograph  them,  but  my  camera  was 
looked  upon  with  suspicion,  and  as  plate  after  plate  was 
exposed  in  portraying  single  individuals  or  groups,  they 
shuddered  at  each  "click  "  of  the  spring. 

"  The  gods  will  be  angry  with  you  for  doing  that?  said 
a  Raot,  pointing  at  the  camera,  "  unless  you  give  us  a 
large  white  coin." 

I  took  advantage  of  this,  and  promised  them  as  best  I 
could  through  my  guide  "  two  large  coins  "  if  they  would 
take  me  to  their  huts,  some  few  hundred  yards  below  the 
lofty  eyrie  in  the  cliff,  but  I  must  for  the  sum  be  allowed 
not  only  to  see  but  to  touch  and  have  explained  to  me 
anything  I  liked. 

They  consented,  and  we  began  our  descent  of  the  pre- 
cipitous track  leading  to  their  habitations,  a  track  fit 
really  only  for  monkeys.  Several  women  and  children 
who  had  come  up,  attracted  by  the  sight  of  strangers, 
joined  with  the  men  in  giving  us  a  helping  hand,  and,  in 
fact,  I  believe  there  cannot  have  been  a  single  paw  in  the 
company  that  did  not  at  one  time  or  other  during  the 
descent  clutch  some  portion  of  my  clothing  in  the  friend- 
liest spirit.  Holding  on  to  one  another,  we  proceeded  in 

22 


THE    HOMES    OF   THE    RAOTS 

a  body,  not  always  at  a  pleasant  pace,  down  the  dangerous 
cliff.  Two  or  three  times  one  of  the  natives  or  myself 
tripped  and  almost  dragged  the  remainder  of  the  party 
over  the  precipice,  while  the  piercing  yells  and  screams 


TWO   MEN   SITTING  DOWN   WITH   CHILDREN 

of  the  women  seemed  to  echo  back  for  miles  around.  I 
was  not  sorry  when  we  at  last  reached  the  small  huts  by 
the  river  which  made  up  their  village. 

The  habitations  were  squalid  beyond  measure.  Con- 
structed with  a  rough  frame  of  tree-branches,  fortified  by 
wooden  posts  and  rafters,  roofed  over  with  a  thatch  of 
dried  grass,  the  majority  of  them  measured  about  ten  feet. 
They  were  built  against  the  hill -side,  a  strong  biforked 
pole  in  the  centre  of  the  structure  supporting  the  roof, 
and  were  usually  divided  into  two  sections,  so  as  to  give 

23 


IX    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 


shelter,  each  of  them,  to  two  families.  They  contained 
no  furniture,  and  but  few  utensils  of  the  most  primitive 
make.  There  were  circular  wooden  bowls  scooped  out 
in  the  past  by  means  of  sharp-edged  stones,  and  more 
recently  by  cheap  blades,  which  were  of  Indian  manu- 
facture. For  such  cultivation  as  they 
were  capable  of  these  people  used  prim- 
itive earth  rakes,  and  they  also  possessed 
coarse  mallets,  sticks,  and  net  bags  in 
which  they  kept  their  stores.  Their  sta- 
ple food  in  former  days  was  river  fish, 
flesh  of  wild  animals,  and  roots  of  certain 
trees ;  but  they  now  eat  grain  also,  and, 
like  all  savages,  they  have  a  craving  for 
liquor.  The  interior  of  Raot  habitations 
was  so  primitive  and  lacking  of  furniture 
that  it  hardly  requires  to  be  described, 
and  the  odors  that  emanated  from  these 
huts  are  also  better  left  to  the  imagina- 
tion of  the  reader. 

Entering  one  of  the  dwellings,  I  found 
squatted    round    a    fire    of    \vood    some 
women  and  men,  the  women  wearing  silver  bangles  and 
glass-bead  necklaces,  the  men  very  little  more  than  string 
ear-rinsfs.     Onlv  one  of  the  men  had  on  as  much  as  a  di- 

O  j 

minutive  loin-cloth,  and  the  women  had   scanty  dresses 
of  Indian   manufacture,  obtained  in  Askote. 

Scanning  their  features  carefully,  it  struck  me  that  in 
their  facial  lines  many  points  could  be  traced  which  would 
make  one  feel  inclined  to  attribute  to  them  a  remote  Mon- 
golian origin,  modified  largely  by  the  climate,  the  nature 
of  the  country,  and  probably  by  intermarriage.  In  the 
scale  of  standard  human  races  the  Raots  stood  extremely 
low,  as  can  be  judged  from  the  accompanying  photographs. 

24 


A   YOUNG    MAN 


RAOT    FEATURES 

The  women,  as  will  be  seen,  had  abnormally  small  skulls- 
with  low  foreheads,  and,  although  they  looked  devoid  even 
of  a  glint  of  reason,  they  were  actually  fairly  intelligent. 
They  had  high  cheek-bones  and  long,  flattish  noses,  broad 
and  rounded  as  in  the  Mongolian  type.  The  chin  was  in 
most  instances  round,  very  receding,  though  the  lips 
were  in  their  normal  position,  thin,  and  very  tightly 
closed  with  up-turned  corners  to  the  mouth.  The  low- 
er jaw  was  extremely  short  and  narrow,  whereas  the 
upper  one  seemed  quite  out  of  proportion  to  the  size 
of  the  skull.  Their  ears  were  large,  outstanding,  and 
unmodelled,  capable  of  catching  sounds  at  great  dis- 
tances. 

The  men  had  better  heads  than  the  women,  under- 
developed, yet  comparatively  well-balanced.  They  had 
higher  and  broader  foreheads,  similar  though  shorter 
noses,  chins  not  quite  so  receding,  the  whole  lower  jaw 
extraordinarily  narrow,  but  the  upper  lip,  as  with  the 
women,  huge  and  out  of  all  proportion. 

Undoubtedly  the  Raots  are  not  a  pure  race,  and  even 
amono-  the  few  I  came  across  variations  so  considerable 

O 

occurred  as  to  puzzle  one  in  tracing  their  origin.  They 
invariably  possess  luxuriant  coal-black  hair,  which  never 
attains  more  than  a  moderate  length.  It  is  not  coarse  in 
texture,  but  is  usually  so  dirty  that  it  appears  coarser  than 
it  really  is.  They  have  very  little  hair  on  their  bodies 
except  in  the  armpits,  and  their  mustaches  and  beards 
hardly  deserve  the  name. 

The  men  generally  part  the  crop  on  their  head  in  the 
middle,  so  that  it  flows  on  either  side  of  the  skull,  just 
covering  the  ears,  and  I  found  the  same  strange  custom 
that  I  observed  years  ago  among  the  Ainu  of  Yezo,  of 
shaving  a  lozenge-shaped  portion  of  the  scalp  in  the  centre 
of  the  forehead  directly  above  the  nose.  The  women, 

25 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

using  their  fingers  as  a  comb,  draw  their  hair  to  the  back 
of  the  head  and  tie  it  in  a  knot. 

The  bodies  of  the  better  specimens  I  saw  were  slight 
and  agile,  with  no  superfluous  fat  or  flesh.  Supple  to  a 
degree,  yet  solid  and  muscular,  with  well-proportioned 
limbs,  and  skin  of  a  rich  tinge  between  bronze  and  terra- 
cotta color,  these  savages,  dirty  and  unclothed  as  they 
were,  certainly  appealed  to  the  artistic  side  of  my  tempera- 
ment, particularly  on  account  of  their  very  majestic  de- 
portment. I  noticed  their  regular  breathing,  which  they 
usually  did  through  the  nose,  keeping  their  mouths 
tightly  closed,  and  also  one  very  curious  peculiarity  about 
their  feet — viz.,  the  length  of  the  second  toe,  protruding 
considerably  beyond  the  others,  and  giving  them  no  doubt 
the  power  of  using  their  toes  almost  as  we  should  our 
fingers.  The  palms  of  their  hands  were  almost  without 
lines,  the  finger-nails  flat,  and  their  thumbs  stumpy,  with 
the  last  phalanx  curiously  short. 

If  the  Raots  to-day  have  adopted  some  articles  of  cloth- 
ing and  ornament,  besides  altering  their  diet  to  a  certain 
extent,  it  is  due  entirely  to  the  Rajiwar  of  Askote,  who, 
taking  a  great  interest  in  the  tribes  he  rules  over,  provides 
them  in  a  patriarchal  way  with  all  sorts  of  necessaries  of 
life.  Very  few  Raots  have  of  late  years  visited  Askote, 
as  they  are  of  a  retiring  nature  and  seem  contented  with 
their  primitive  abodes  in  the  forests  of  Chipula,  which 
they  claim  as  their  own.  Their  only  occupations  are  fish- 
ing and  hunting,  and  they  are  said  to  have  a  predilection 
for  the  flesh  of  the  larger  Himahlyan  monkey,  although 
from  my  own  observation  I  should  have  said  that  they 
would  eat  almost  anything  they  could  get.  It  has  gen- 
erally been  assumed  that  the  Raot  women  are  kept  in 
strict  seclusion  and  hidden  from  strangers,  and  I  cannot 
better  prove  the  absurdity  of  this  than  by  reproducing  in 

26 


RAOT    CUSTOMS   AND    CHARACTER 


these  pages  one  of  several  photographs  of  the  Raot 
women,  for  which  they  posed  at  my  request  without  the 
slightest  objection  from  the  men.  They  are  generally  be- 
lieved to  be  chaste,  and  my  photographs  prove,  I  think, 
that  whatever  charm  they  may  possess  for  the  Raot  men, 
their  peculiar  beauty  offers  but  little  temptation  to  others. 

They  are  rapidly  diminishing  in  numbers,  chiefly  no 
doubt  on  account  of  constant  intermarriage.     I  was  as- 
sured that  the  women  are  not 
sterile,  but  that  there  is  enor- 
mous mortality  among  the 
young    children.      They   bury 
their  dead,  and  for  several  days 
afterwards  offer  food  and  water 
to  the  spirit  of  the  departed. 

I  was  unable  to  ascertain 
what  their  marriage  cere- 
monies were  like,  or  if  they 
had  any  to  speak  of,  but  it  ap- 
peared that  there  was  a  con- 
siderable family  feeling  among 
couples  living  maritally  to- 
gether. They  are  supersti- 
tious, and  hold  in  curious  awe 
the  spirits  of  the  mountains, 

the  sun,  the  moon,  fire,  water,  and  wind.  Whether  this 
amounts  to  a  definite  form  of  worship  I  cannot  say:  I 
certainly  saw  no  signs  of  the  offering  of  prayers  or  sacri- 
fices. 

The  Raots  claim  to  be  the  descendants  of  kings,  and 
they  refuse  allegiance  to  any  one.  They  will  neither 
salute  you  nor  bow  to  you. 

"  It  is  for  other  people  to  salute  us.  Our  blood  is  the 
blood  of  kings,  and  though  for  choice  we  have  for  cen- 

27 


RAOT   WOMEN   OF  THE   FOREST 


I. — C 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

turies  retired  to  the  jungle,  we  are  none  the  less  the  sons 
of  kings." 

After  a  while,  and  when  I  had  spent  some  considerable 
time  among  them,  these  royal  savages  seemed  uncomfort- 
able and  apprehensive.  I  had  turned  over,  examined, 
drawn  or  photographed  every  household  article  I  had 
seen,  had  measured  every  one,  male  and  female,  who  con- 
sented to  be  measured,  and  paid  them  the  stipulated 
money.  As  I  was  about  to  leave,  the  gray-haired  man 
approached  me  again. 

"  You  have  seen  the  home  of  the  Raots.  You  are  the 
first  stranger  who  has  done  so,  and  you  will  suffer  much. 
The  gods  are  very  angry  with  you." 

"  Yes,"  rejoined  another  savage,  pointing  at  the  ravine, 
"  whoever  treads  along  that  track  and  is  not  a  Raot  will 
be  afflicted  by  a  great  calamity." 

" Kush  paruani,  Sahib'1''  (Never  mind,  sir),  interrupt- 
ed the  guide,  "  they  are  only  barbarians ;  they  know  no 
better.  I  have  myself  never  been  here,  so  I  suppose  I 
shall  also  come  in  for  my  share." 

"  You,  too,  will  suffer,"  said  the  old  Raot,  with  self- 
assurance. 

The  Raots  stood  round  me  silently  as  I  packed  up  the 
camera,  and  I  felt  that  they  looked  upon  me  as  a  man 
whose  fate  was  settled.  They  did  not  acknowledge  my 
farewell,  and,  had  I  teen  in  the  least  superstitious,  might 
have  made  me  thoroughly  uncomfortable  with  their 
solemn,  stolid  gravity. 

But  it  all  came  back  to  me  with  horrible  intensity  later 
on,  when  I  was  suffering  the  agonies  of  hell,  and  when  I 
seemed  to  relive  in  every  moment  the  experiences  of  my 
whole  former  life. 

28 


CHAPTER  V 


A  PILGRIM  FROM  MAXSAROWAR  LAKE  —  THE  SPIRITS  OF  THE  MOUN- 
TAINS—A SAFEGUARD  AGAINST  THEM  —  TIBETAN  ENCAMPMENTS  — 
THE  RAJIWAR— A  WATERFALL — WATER-MILLS 

HAVING  returned  to  Askote  from  my  excursion,  I  saw 
while  going  round  the  town  with  Jagat  Sing,  in  a  low 
stone  shed  by  the  side  of 

j 

the  palace,  the  tall,  gaunt 

fi 2:11  re  of  a  man  emero-ine  <•* 


t 


THE  RAJIWAR   OF   ASKOTE,  HIS 
BROTHER   AND   SON 


from  a  cloud  of  smoke. 

"  Who  is  that  ?"  I  in- 
quired of  my  companion. 

"  Oh,  that  is  a  fakir  re- 
turning from  a  pilgrim- 
age to  the  sacred  lake  of 
Mansarowar  in  Tibet. 
Many  of  these  fanatics 
pass  through  here  during 
the  summer  on  their  re- 
ligious journeys." 

My  curiosity  drew  me  towards  the  weird  individual. 
He  was  over  six  feet  in  height,  and  his  slim  body  had 
been  covered  with  ashes,  giving  the  dark  skin  a  tinge  of 
ghastly  gray.  I  asked  him  to  come  out  into  the  light. 
His  masses  of  long  hair  had  been  plaited  into  small  tresses 
which  were  wound  round  his  head  in  the  fashion  of  a 
turban  —  the  Tatta.  The  hair,  too,  had  been  whitened, 
while  the  long,  thin  beard  had  been  dyed  bright  red.  His 
eyes  were  sunken,  and,  apparently  to  add  to  the  ghastly 

29 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

and  decidedly  repulsive  effect,  his  forehead  and  cheeks 
were  plastered  with  a  thick  white  paint.  He  seemed  half 
stupefied,  and  had  very  little  to  say  for  himself.  As  can 
be  seen  by  the  illustration,  he  was  scantily  clothed,  but  he 
wore  the  Kamarjuri,  or  fakir's  chain,  about  his  loins,  and 
he  had  a  bead  bracelet  round  his  arm  above  the  elbow. 


FAKIR  RETURNING   FROM    MANSAROWAR 

His  waist  was  encircled  with  a  belt  of  wooden  beads,  and  a 
necklace  of  plaited  hair  ornamented  his  neck.  He  spent 
his  days  rolling  himself  in  ashes  and  enduring  self-imposed 
bodily  privations,  with  a  view  to  attain  a  state  of  sanctifi- 
cation. 

Rumors  had  reached  me  of  some  curious  superstitions 
prevalent  among  these  mountain  folk. 

"  Tell  me,"  I  said  to  Jagat  Sing,  "  are  there  '  spirits  of 
the  mountains '  in  these  ranges  ?  And  do  the  people 
really  believe  in  them  ?" 

30 


SPIRITS    AND    CHARMS 

"  Yes,  sir,"  replied  the  young  fellow,  "  there  certainly 
are  a  number  of  them,  and  they  are  often  very  trouble- 
some, especially  to  certain  people.  They  are  seldom 
known,  however,  to  kill  any  one." 

"  Then  they  are  not  quite  so  bad  as  some  human 
beings,"  I  replied. 

"  Well,  sir,  they  are  very  bad.  They  seize  sleeping 
people  by  the  throat  with  claws  like  iron,  sitting  on  the 
chests  of  their  victims." 

"  Does  not  that  sound  more  like  an  attack  of  indices- 

O 

tion  ?" 

"  No,  sir.  The  ghosts  of  the  mountains  are  the  spirits 
of  people  that  have  not  gone  to  heaven.  They  are  to  be 
found  in  swarms  at  night  in  the  forest.  The  people  are 
terrified  of  them.  They  haunt  the  mountain  tops  and 
slopes,  and  they  can  assume  the  semblance  of  a  cat,  a 
mouse,  or  any  other  animal ;  in  fact,  they  are  said  to  fre- 
quently change  their  appearance.  Where  no  man  can 
tread,  among  rocks  and  precipices,  or  in  the  thick  jungle, 
the  spirits  seek  their  retreat,  but  often  they  abandon 
their  haunts  to  seek  for  men.  The  person  who  becomes 
possessed  generally  remains  in  a  semiconscious  condi- 
tion and  ejaculates  mad  cries  and  unintelligible  words. 
There  are  men  who  profess  to  know  charms  to  draw 
them  out.  Some  remedies  for  that  purpose  are  common- 
ly used  by  the  natives  with  more  or  less  success.  A 
grass  called  Bichna  (nettles)  has  the  faculty  of  frighten- 
ing the  spirits  away  when  applied  on  the  body  of  the 
sufferer,  but  the  most  effective  remedy  is  to  make  pre- 
tence to  beat  with  a  red-hot  iron  the  person  possessed. 
The  spirits  seem  to  fear  that  more  than  anything  else." 

"  Do  the  spirits  ever  speak?"  I  inquired,  interested  in 
the  curious  superstitions  of  these  hill  men. 

"  No,  sir,  not  often,  nor  usually  directly,  but  they  do  it 


IN   THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

through  people  who  are  possessed  by  them.  It  is  they 
who  tell  many  strange  tales  of  the  spirits.  One  curious 
point  about  them  is  that  they  only  seize  people  who  are 
afraid  of  them.  If  defied  they  vanish." 

"  Do  the  natives  adopt  any  special  method  to  protect 
themselves  from  these  mountain  demons?" 

"Fire  is  the  only  sure  protection.  Any  one  sleeping 
near  a  fire  is  safe,  and  as  long  as  there  is  a  flame  blazing 
the  spirits  keep  away." 

"  Do  you  know  any  one  who  has  seen  them  ?" 

41  Yes.  A  chaprassi  called  Joga  tells  of  having  been 
compelled  to  travel  at  night  through  a  forest;  he  heard 
a  voice  calling  him  by  name.  Terrified,  he  stopped,  and 
for  some  moments  his  voice  failed  him.  At  last,  trem- 
bling all  over,  he  replied,  and  instantly  a  swarm  of 
spirits  appeared  and  challenged  him  to  do  them  harm. 
Joga  ran  for  his  life,  and  the  demons  vanished.  Spirits 
have  been  known  to  throw  stones  at  passers-by." 

"  Have  you  ever  seen  a  spirit,  Jagat  Sing  ?" 

"Only  once.  I  was  returning  to  the  palace  late  in  the 
evening  when  up  the  steep  road  I  perceived  a  woman's 
figure.  It  was  a  beautiful  moonlight  night.  I  walked 
up,  and  as  I  passed  the  face  of  the  strange  being  ap- 
peared black,  inhuman,  and  ghastly.  I  staggered  when  I 
saw  the  weird  apparition  approach,  my  blood  ran  cold 
with  fear.  I  struck  a  mighty  blow  with  my  stick,  but, 
behold !  the  cane  whirled  through  the  air  and  hit  noth- 
ing. Instantly  the  ghost  vanished." 

"  I  wish,  Jagat  Sing,  that  you  could  show  me  some  of 
these  spirits;  I  would  give  anything  to  make  a  sketch  of 
them." 

"  You  cannot  always  see  them  when  you  want,  sir,  but 
they  are  always  to  be  avoided.  They  are  evil  spirits,  and 
can  do  nothing  but  harm." 


TIBETAN    ENCAMPMENTS 

Leaving  Askote  (4600  feet)  by  the  winding  road 
through  a  dense  forest,  I  crossed  by  a  suspension-bridge 
the  Gori  River  at  Gargia  (2450  feet).  The  track  was 
along  the  low  and  unpleasantly  hot  valley  of  the  Kali 
River,  a  raging  stream  flowing  with  indescribable  rapidi- 
ty in  the  opposite  direction  to  that  in  which  I  was  travel- 
ling. It  formed  the  boundary-line  between  Nepal  and 
Kumaon.  Huts  and  patches  of  cultivation  were  to  be 
seen  on  the  Nepalese  side,  whereas  on  our  side  we  came 
upon  deserted  and  roofless  winter  dwellings  of  Shokas 
(usually  but  not  correctly  called  Botiyas)  and  Tibetans, 
who  migrate  to  these  warmer  regions  to  graze  their 
sheep  during  the  colder  months  of  the  year.  The  Sho- 
ka  summer  residences  are  at  greater  elevations,  mostly 
along  the  highways  to  Tibet  and  nearer  the  Tibetan 
boundary.  On  arriving  at  the  Kutzia  Daramsalla  a  mes- 
senger brought  me  the  news  that  the  Rajiwar,  whom  I 
had  missed  seeing  at  Askote,  was  now  here  for  the  pur- 
pose of  making  offerings  to  certain  deities.  He  would 
call  upon  me  at  3  P.M.;  so,  having  some  time  to  spare,  I 
went  to  bathe  in  the  deliciously  cold  though,  as  I  found, 
dangerously  rapid  stream.  Swimming  was  out  of  the 
question,  and  even  an  immersion  bath  was  attended  with 
a  certain  amount  of  risk.  The  current  caused  me  to  lose 
my  footing,  and  I  soon  found  myself  washed  with  great 
force  against  some  rocks  thirty  or  forty  yards  down 
stream.  I  came  out  of  the  water  minus  a  few  patches 
of  skin  on  my  knees  and  shins,  and  while  drying  myself 
in  the  sun  received  a  deputation  of  the  Patan  (head  vil- 
lage man)  and  other  natives,  conveying  with  their  most 
respectful  salaams  gifts  of  milk,  kielas  (bananas),  kakri 
(gigantic  cucumbers),  and  nuts.  These  hill  fellows  im- 
pressed me  as  being  of  a  far  superior  standard  to  the 
Hindoos  of  the  plains.  They  were  lightly  yet  strongly 

33 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

built,  and  showed  evidence  of  both  character  and  dig- 
nity. With  their  fair  complexion  and  luxuriant  black 
hair  and  mustache  they  resembled  Spaniards  or  Southern 
Italians.  They  lacked  entirely  the  affected  manner  and 
falseness  of  speech  and  demeanor  so  common  among  the 
natives  who  are  constantly  in  contact  with  Europeans. 

Below  the  Daramsalla,  near  the  water-side,  was  a  large 
Tibetan  encampment  of  some  twenty  or  thirty  tents 
which  had  all  originally  been  white,  but  were  now  black 
with  smoke.  In  these  were  men,  women,  and  children, 
with  all  their  paraphernalia ;  and  the  first  thing  that  at- 
tracted my  eye  in  each  tent  was  the  quantity  of  shiny 
brass  bowls  strewn  upon  the  ground,  the  entire  energy  of 
the  tent-owners  seemingly  being  spent  in  keeping  these 
utensils  clean  and  bright,  to  the  utter  neglect  of  their 
other  property.  Walls  of  sheep-loads  were  erected  either 
inside  the  tent  or  directly  outside,  covered  in  the  latter 
case  with  cloths  in  order  to  protect  them  from  the  rain. 

Punctually  at  3  P.M.  the  Rajiwar  arrived,  carried  in  a 
dandy,  and  followed  by  his  brother,  who  sat  in  a  mountain 
dandy.  The  Rajiwar's  son  and  heir  rode  a  splendid  gray 
pony.  I  went  to  assist  the  old  Rajiwar  to  alight,  as  for 
some  years  he  had  been  paralyzed.  We  shook  hands 
heartily,  and  I  led  him  into  the  Daramsalla  (2875  feet), 
where  in  default  of  furniture  we  all  sat  on  packing-cases. 
His  refined,  well-cut  features,  his  attractive  manner,  and 
the  soft,  dignified  voice  in  which  he  spoke  clearly  indi- 
cated a  man  of  superior  blood  and  uncommon  ability. 
His  modesty  and  simplicity  were  delightful. 

"  I  hope  that  your  health  is  good  and  that  you  have 
not  suffered  too  much  on  your  journey.  I  was  grieved 
not  to  be  in  Askote  to  receive  you.  Are  your  dear  par- 
ents alive  ?  Have  you  any  brothers  and  sisters  ?  Are 
you  married  ?  I  would  much  like  to  visit  England.  It 

34 


VISIT   OF   THE    RAJIWAH    OF   ASKOTE 

must  be  a  wonderful  country,  and  so  much  do  I  admire 
it  that  I  have  given  my  nephews  a  British  education, 
and  one  of  them  is  now  serving  the  Maharanee  (Queen) 
Victoria  as  Political  Peshkar." 

I  answered  his  questions  as  best  I  could  with  the  aid 
of  a  Hindustani  dictionary,  expressive  gestures,  and  quick 


THE    RAJIWAR    AND    HIS    BROTHER   IN   DANDIES 

sketches.  He  spoke  of  many  of  our  latest  inventions 
with  marked  interest  and  intelligence. 

He  seemed  greatly  struck  with  my  scientific  instru- 
ments, but  he  and  his  people  were  more  particularly  at- 
tracted by  my  rifles,  revolvers,  and  other  weapons,  es- 
pecially the  .256  Mannlicher,  sighted  to  1000  yards. 

The  Rajiwar  pressed  me  to  return  with  him  to  Askote,. 
where  he  offered  to  give  me  tiger,  bear,  and  leopard 
shooting.  Tempting  as  the  invitation  was,  I  could  not 
accept  it,  for  my  plans  would  lead  me  in  the  opposite  di- 
rection. His  visit  lasted  for  more  than  three  hours,  and 
I  was  pleased  to  feel  that  we  parted  great  friends. 

On  the  road  to  Dharchula,  along  the  low-lying  valley, 
the  heat  was  unbearable,  although  the  sun  was  near  the 

35 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

horizon.  We  came  upon  a  waterfall  falling  from  a  great 
heio-ht  over  a  series  of  umbrella-like  stalactites  covered 

o 

with  moss.  The  last  rays  of  the  sun  shone  on  the  drop- 
ping water,  brilliant  and  sparkling  as  a  shower  of  dia- 
monds. Several  small  rainbows  added  to  the  beauty  of 
the  scene.  I  rested  some  time  in  this  cool  and  beautiful 
retreat.  There  were  birds  singing  and  monkeys  playing 
among  the  trees.  Farther  on,  where  the  river  bends, 
there  are  two  large  caves  hollowed  in  the  rock ;  the 
smoke -blackened  ceilings  prove  that  these  are  used  as 
camping  -  grounds  by  travelling  Shokas  and  Hunyas 
(Tibetans).  Large  black -faced,  white -bearded  monkeys 
swarmed  everywhere,  frankly  and  gladly  mischievous. 
They  throw  or  roll  stones  down  upon  the  passers  -  by, 
often  causing  accidents,  the  track  being  rather  narrow 
and  sheer  above  the  river. 

Previous  to  arriving  at  the  spot  where  the  Tsuagar 
flows  into  the  Kali  River  one  meets  with  many  Tibetan, 
Humli,  and  Rongba  encampments. 

I  camped  at  Kalika  (3205  feet)  by  the  side  of  a  gigan- 
tic tree  with  boughs  spreading  well  over  the  road,  the 
chaprassis  and  men  erecting  a  comfortable  chopper  of 
mats,  foliage,  and  branches. 

I  was  anxious  to  get  through  the  hot  valley  with  the 
greatest  possible  speed,  so,  notwithstanding  that  we  had 
halted  very  late  at  night,  I  roused  my  men  at  3  A.M.  and 
again  set  forth  on  the  march.  Here  and  there  along  the 
road  we  passed  deserted  winter  dwellings  of  Shokas, 
nearly  all  with  broken  thatched  roofs.  Some,  however, 
were  roofed  with  slate,  the  distinctive  mark  of  residence 
of  the  Darma  Shokas. 

The  primitive  Shoka  water-mills  were  curious.  By  a 
very  ingenious  contrivance  the  water  of  a  stream  pro- 
pelled a  heavy  cylindrical  stone  revolving  on  the  top  of 

36 


THE    VILLAGE   OF   DHARCHULA 

another.  The  grain  fell  slowly  from  a  magazine  above 
into  a  hole  pierced  in  the  centre  of  the  upper  wheel,  and, 
finding  its  way  through  a  channel  between  the  two  cylin- 
ders, was  ground  into  fine  flour. 

Dharchula  (3550  feet),  the  largest  Shoka  winter  settle- 
ment, is  situated  on  a  fine  stretch  of  flat  land  some  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  river;  the  village  consists  of  twelve 
long  rows  of  roofless  houses  very  similar  in  size  and 
shape.  Four  larger  buildings  at  the  extreme  limit  of  the 
settlement  attract  notice.  One  of  these  is  a  Daramsalla. 
The  others,  two  high  stone  buildings,  are  a  school,  hos- 
pital, and  dispensary  belonging  to  the  Methodist  Episco- 
pal Mission,  and  under  the  careful  supervision  of  Miss 
Sheldon,  M.D.,  Miss  Brown,  and  that  wonderful  pioneer, 
Dr.  H.  Wilson.  A  bungalow  of  the  same  mission  is 
built  higher  up  on  the  hill-side. 

Between  the  two  spots  where  from  Nepal  the  Lachu 
and  the  Shakta  join  the  Kali  was  Dubart  (370x3  feet), 
and  from  thence  one  gradually  rose  to  4120  feet  at  the 
Relegar  River,  also  a  tributary  of  the  larger  stream. 
Having  crossed  the  Rankuti  River,  I  ascended  still 
higher  by  zigzag  walking,  slowly  leaving  behind  me  range 
after  range  of  mountains  beyond  the  valley  of  the  river; 
while  on  the  Nepal  side,  beyond  the  three  nearer  ranges, 
snow  peaks  of  great  height  and  beauty  stood  out  against 
the  sky-line.  The  highest  point  on  the  road  was  5450 
feet,  after  which  we  descended  to  5275  feet  at  the  Khela 
Daramsalla,  which  we  did  not  reach  till  late  at  night. 

Near  Khela,  on  the  top  of  a  high  mountain,  stood  a  tall 
quadrangular  rock  not  unlike  a  tower.  The  natives  say 
that  a  mere  touch  causes  it  to  shake  and  revolve,  but 
this  belief  is  not  general,  for  others  deny  that  it  ever 
moves.  I  could  not  spare  the  time  to  go  and  obtain  the 
facts,  nor  could  I  obtain  reliable  information  from  any 

37 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

one  who  had  had  actual  experience.  So  far  as  I  could 
see  with  the  aid  of  my  telescope,  the  rock  seemed  to  be 
standing  firmly  on  a  very  solid  base.  To  my  regret,  also, 
I  was  unable  to  visit  the  curious  hot  sulphur  springs  on 
the  Darma  Ganga,  and  the  strange  cave  in  which  much 
animal  life  is  lost  owing  to  the  noxious  gases  rising  from 
the  ground.  I  gathered  from  various  reports  that  this 
cave  or  grotto  is  packed  with  skeletons  of  birds  and 
quadrupeds  who  have  unknowingly  entered  this  chamber 
of  death. 

38 


CHAPTER   VI 

HIGHWAYS  AND  TRADE  ROUTES  — THE  DARMA  ROUTE  —  THE  DHOLI 
RIVER — A  ROUGH  TRACK  CONNECTING  TWO  VALLEYS — GLACIERS- 
THREE  RANGES  AND  THEIR  PEAKS — ALTITUDES — DARMA,  JOHAR,  AND 
THE  PA1NKHANDA  PARGANAS— THE  HIGHEST  PEAK  IN  THE  BRITISH 
EMPIRE — NATURAL  BOUNDARIES 

THERE  are  two  principal  highways  from  Khela  to 
Hundes — one  by  the  valley  of  the  Dholi  or  Darma  River, 
the  other  along  the  Kali  River  and  over  the  Lippu 
Pass. 

The  trade  route  via  Darma  is  less  frequented  than  the 
one  by  the  Lippu,  but  it  is  nevertheless  of  considerable 
importance,  inasmuch  as  a  certain  portion  of  the  trade 
of  Southwest  Tibet  with  India  is  carried  on  through  the 
medium  of  the  Darma  Shokas.  It  consists  mainly  of 
borax,  salt,  wool,  skins,  cloth,  and  utensils,  in  exchange 
for  which  the  Tibetans  take  silver,  wheat,  rice,  satoo, 
ghur,  lump  candied  sugar,  pepper,  beads  of  all  kinds,  and 
articles  of  Indian  manufacture.  For  a  mountain  track, 
and  considering  the  altitudes  to  which  it  rises,  the 
Darma  way  is  comparatively  good  and  safe,  notwith- 
standing that  in  following  upward  the  course  of  the 
Dholi  River  the  narrow  path  in  many  places  overhangs 
deep  ravines  and  precipices.  There  are  many  Shoka  vil- 
lages and  settlements  on  the  banks  of  the  stream,  the 

o 

most  important  ones  being  the  Nyu,  Sobala,  Sela,  Nag- 
ling  (9520  feet),  Bahling  (10,230  feet),  Sona  and  Tuktung 
(10,630  feet),  Dansu  and  Yansu,  where  there  is  a  bridge. 
On  the  northeast  bank  is  Goa,  facing  Dakar,  and  farther 

39 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

up,  at   an   elevation   of    10,400   feet,  the    Lissar,  a    rapid 
tributary  with  muddy  water. 

The    Dholi    springs    from    a    series    of    comparatively 
small  glaciers  northeast  of  a  ranq-e  forming  a  branch  of 

O  O  <D 

the  higher  Himahlyan  chain,  and  extending  in  a  south- 
easterly direction    as    far   as    the    point   where   the   two 


DARMA    SHOKAS    AND   TIBETANS 


streams  meet.  It  receives,  on  its  precipitous  descent,, 
many  small  snow -fed  tributaries,  those  from  the  Katz 
snow-fields  and  the  Nui  glacier  being  the  most  important. 
Its  way  lies  in  a  tortuous  channel  amid  rocks  and  ra- 
vines, first  tending  towards  the  southeast,  then  due  south,, 
and  last  southwest  down  to  the  point  where  it  is  joined 

40 


GLACIERS 

by  the  Lissar,  coming  from  the  northwest  along  a  line 
almost  parallel  on  the  opposite  watershed  of  the  range. 

Tyang,  Sipu  (11,400  feet),  and  Marcha  (10,890  feet), 
are  the  three  most  important  Shoka  villages  on  the 
Lissar. 

From  Marcha  there  is  a  track  connecting  the  valleys 
of  the  Lissar  and  Gori.  You  ascend  the  high  mountain 
range  west  of  the  Lissar  by  skirting  the  northern  edge 
of  the  Nipchung  Rang  glacier  and  keeping  south  of  the 
Kharsa  glacier,  and,  on  a  route  that  is  unpopular  on  ac- 
count of  its  constant  difficulties  and  perils,  you  pass,  as 
you  descend  in  a  westerly  direction,  the  Tertcha  glacier. 
South  of  the  Shun  Kalpa  glacier  you  reach  first  Ralem 
and  then  Sumdu,  which  is  situated  on  a  tributary  of  the 
Gori  River,  itself  a  tributary  of  the  Kali.  The  rugged, 
barren  chain  of  mountains  separating  the  Gori  from  the 
Lissar  extends  in  a  general  direction  from  south-south- 
east to  north-northeast  up  to  the  Ralfo  glacier,  and  there 
turns  in  a  curve  northwest  among  a  succession  of  perpet- 
ual snow -fields  and  glaciers.  The  glaciers  to  the  north- 
east and  east  of  the  range  outnumber  those  on  the  west, 
but  there  is  one  of  importance  called  in  its  different  sec- 
tions the  Kala  Baland,  the  Shun  Kalpa,  and  the  Tertcha. 
There  are,  along  the  fifteen  most  northerly  miles  of  the 
range,  south  of  the  point  where  it  joins  the  Himahlyan 
chain,  other  glaciers  of  considerable  size  and  importance, 
but  I  was  not  able  to  ascertain  their  names,  excepting 
that  of  the  Lissar  seva,  the  most  northern  of  all,  forming 
the  source  of  the  Lissar.  The  inter-Lissar-Gori  range  is 
of  considerable  geographical  importance,  not  only  because 
it  forms  the  boundary  between  the  two  parts  of  Bhot 
called  Darma  and  Johar,  but  also  because  of  the  magnifi- 
cent peaks  reaching  in  the  Bambadhura,  an  elevation  of 
20,760  feet,  and  in  a  higher  unnamed  peak,  southeast  of 

41 


IN   THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

it,  21,470  feet.  There  are  also  the  two  Kharsa  peaks, 
the  one  northwest  of  the  glacier  bearing  its  name  being 
19,650  feet,  the  one  southwest  of  it  slightly  over  20,900 
feet,  and  south-southwest  one  peak  21,360  feet,  another 
21,520  feet,  and  farther  still,  north  of  the  Telkot  glacier, 
the  highest  of  all,  22,660  feet.  In  a  southeast  direction 
there  are  peaks  20,700  feet,  20,783  feet,  and  21,114  feet 
high.  At  the  point  where  the  ridge  turns  south  the  ele- 
vations become  lower,  the  two  highest  being  19,923  feet 
and  19,814  feet,  the  latter  being  situated  at  the  point 
•where  a  smaller  range  branches  off  to  the  southeast,  the 
principal  range  running  south  for  the  next  eleven  or 
twelve  miles,  with  no  very  remarkable  elevations.  In  the 
side  range  there  are  peaks  of  18,280  feet,  17,062  feet, 
1 4,960  feet,  respectively. 

In  latitude  29°  59'  10"  N.  and  longitude  80°  31'  45" 
E.  the  range  again  separates  into  two  secondary  ridges, 
one  extending  southeast,  the  other  southwest,  and  in  turn 
both  these  are  a^ain  subdivided  into  minor  hill  ridges, 

O  O 

along  which  no  summits  are  found  surpassing  13,000  feet, 
except  the  Basili,  13,244  feet. 

The  Bungadhura  Mountain  (9037  feet),  in  close  prox- 
imity to  Khela,  terminates  the  southeasterly  division  of 
the  range,  separating  the  Pargana  of  Darma  from  that  of 
Askote.  The  actual  boundary -line,  however,  does  not 
follow  the  higher  mountain  range  as  far  as  the  Kali  River, 
but  swerves  to  the  south  along  the  ridge  overlooking  the 
valley  of  the  River  Relegar.  These  mountains  are  called 
the  Mangthil. 

There  is,  west  of  the  above  ridge,  a  second  and  even 
more  important  chain,  running  out  parallel  to  it  from  the 
backbone  of  the  Himahlyan  great  mountain  system.  This 
second  ridge  contains  the  highest  mountain  in  the  British 
Empire,  Nanda  Devi  (25,660  feet),  with  its  second  peak 

42 


MOUNTAIN    PASSES 

(24,380  feet),  also  Trisul  (23,406  feet),  East  Trisul  (22,360 
feet),  and  Nanda  Kot  (22,530  feet).  This  range  and  its 
ramifications  divide  the  valleys  of  the  Gori  River  (the 
Pargana  of  Johar)  from  the  most  western  portion  of  Bhot, 
the  Painkhanda  Pargana. 

The  well-known  Milam  and  Pindari  glaciers  are  one 
on  the  eastern,  the  other  on  the  southwestern  side  of 
this  range.  The  Milam  highway  to  Tibet,  frequented  by 
the  Johari  traders,  traverses  over  the  Kungribingri  Pass 
(18,300  feet),  and  the  Uttadhura  (17,590  feet),  directly 
south-southwest  of  it,  into  Hundes. 

The  Pargana  Painkhanda,  a  region  equally  Alpine, 
similarly  covered  with  vast  stretches  of  perpetual  snow 
and  extensive  glaciers,  is  in  the  northeast  corner  of  Gar- 
whal,  bordering  on  Tibet,  and  along  the  Dhauli  River; 
intersecting  it,  another  trade  route  finds  its  way  into 
Western  Tibet  by  the  Niti  Pass.  Leaving  the  course  of 
the  Dhauli  at  Jelam  (10,100  feet),  this  track  proceeds  al- 
most due  east,  rising  to  an  altitude  of  16,600  feet  on  the 
Niti,  in  latitude  30°  57'  59"  N.  and  longitue  79°  55'  3"  E., 
which  is,  from  all  accounts,  a  very  easy  pass,  and  quite 
free  from  snow  during  the  summer  months.  The  peo- 
ple of  the  Painkhanda  Pargana  use  this  pass  as  well  as 
the  other  passes  of  Malla  Shilanch  and  Tumzun,  besides 
the  Shorhoti,  visited  by  H.  R.  Strachey  some  years  ago, 
over  which,  however,  only  a  small  portion  of  the  trade 
with  Hundes  is  carried,  for  it  is  considered  the  most  dan- 
gerous of  the  three.  The  cold  and  turbid  waters  of  the 
Dhauli,  swollen  by  dozens  of  equally  foaming  and  mud- 
dy tributaries,  become  ultimately  the  sacred  waters  of 
the  Ganges. 

The  three  Alpine  Parganas  —  viz.,  the  Painkhanda,  Johar, 
and  Darma  (Darma,  Chaudas,  and  Bias)  —  are  inhabited 
by  races  closely  allied  and  akin  to  those  of  Tibet  proper. 


I.-D 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

The  region  is  collectively  named  Bhot,  although  that  des- 
ignation is  more  particularly  applied  by  the  natives  of 
India  to  that  portion  of  the  country  which  includes 
Darma,  Bias,  and  Chaudas,  and  which  has  for  natural 
boundaries  the  Kali  River  to  the  southeast,  separating  it 
from  Nepal  and  the  great  Himahlyan  chain  to  the  north- 
east, extending  from  the  Lissar  Peak  in  a  general  direc- 
tion of  about  1 15°. 

A  ramification  leaving  the  main  range  at  the  Darma 
Pass  stretches  across  from  north  -  northwest  to  south- 
southeast  separating  the  above-mentioned  Darma  Ganga 
from  the  Kuti  River,  along  which  I  eventually  travelled 
on  my  way  to  Tibet.  The  main  elevations  found  on 
this  ridge  are  18,510  feet  on  the  Darma  Pass;  northeast 
of  the  Rama  glacier  a  peak  20,760  feet;  the  Gurma 
Mountain,  20,320  feet;  and  others  south  of  them  as  high 
as  20,380  feet,  20,330  feet,  20,260  feet.  East  of  the  lat- 
ter summit  is  one  20,455  ^ee^ 

44 


CHAPTER   VII 

THE  WORD  SHOT  AND  ITS  MEANING— TIBETAN  INFLUENCE— TIBETAN 
ABUSES — THE  EVER-HELPFUL  CHANDEN  SING— THE  FIRST  SHOKA 
VILLAGE— CHANDEN  SING  IN  DISGRACE— WEAVING-LOOM— FABRICS— 
ALL'S  WELL  THAT  ENDS  WELL 

THE  name  Bkot  —  pronounced  Bod,  Pote,  Ttipot,  or 
Taipot — by  which  this  inter-Alpine  region  is  called,  means 
Tibet.  In  fact,  Tibet  is  probably  merely  a  corruption  of 
Tiipot.  These  lofty  "  pattis  "  of  Darma,  Bias,  and  Chau- 
das  nominally  form  part  of  the  British  Empire,  our  geo- 
graphical boundary  with  Nari  Khorsum  or  Hundes  (Great 
Tibet)  being  the  main  Himahlyan  chain  forming  the 
water-shed  between  the  two  countries.  In  spite  of  this 
actual  territorial  right,  I  found  at  the  time  of  my  visit  in 
1897  that  it  was  impossible  not  to  agree  with  the  natives 
in  asserting  that  British  prestige  and  protection  in  those 
regions  were  mere  myths ;  that  Tibetan  influence  alone 
was  dominant  and  prevailing,  and  Tibetan  law  enforced 
and  feared.  The  natives  invariably  showed  abject  obse- 
quiousness and  servile  submission  to  Tibetans,  being  at 
the  same  time  compelled  to  display  actual  disrespect  to 
British  officials.  They  were  driven  to  bring  the  greater 
number  of  civil  and  criminal  cases  before  Tibetan  magis- 
trates in  preference  to  having  them  tried  in  a  British  court. 

The  Tibetans,  in  fact,  openly  claimed  possession  of  the 
"pattis"  bordering  on  Nari  Khorsum;  and  the  more  ob- 
viously to  impress  our  natives  with  their  influence  as  su- 
perior to  British,  they  came  over  to  hibernate  on  our  side, 
and  made  themselves  quite  at  home  in  the  warmer  valleys 

45 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

and  in  the  larger  bazaars.  They  brought  their  families 
with  them,  and  drove  before  them  thousands  and  thou- 
sands of  sheep  to  graze  on  our  pasture-lands ;  they  gradu- 
ally destroyed  our  forests  in  Bias  to  supply  Southwestern 
Tibet  with  fuel  for  the  summer  months.  For  this  they 
not  only  paid  nothing,  but  our  native  subjects  had  to  con- 
vey the  timber  over  the  high  passes  without  remuneration. 
Necessarily  such  unprincipled  task-masters  did  not  draw 
the  line  at  extorting  from  our  natives,  under  any  pretence, 
money,  food,  clothes,  and  everything  else  they  could  pos- 
sibly levy.  Some  were  known  to  travel  yearly  as  far  south 
as  Lucknow,  Calcutta,  and  Bombay. 

So  much  for  the  gentleness  of  the  Tibetans--a  hermit 
nation  living  in  a  closed  country ! 

Chanden  Sing,  ever  anxious  to  be  polite  and  helpful, 
would  not  hear  of  my  carrying  my  own  sketch  and  note 
books,  as  had  always  been  my  custom,  but  insisted  on  do- 
ing so  himself. 

"  Hum  pagal  nek  /"  (I  am  no  fool!)  said  he,  with  an 
expression  of  wounded  feelings.  "  I  will  take  great  care 
of  them." 

We  started  up  the  steep  road,  having  first  descended  to 
the  level  of  the  River  Dholi,  800  feet  lower  than  Khela, 
crossing  by  a  wooden  bridge.  The  zigzag  up  the  moun- 
tain-side seemed  endless.  Here  and  there  a  cool  spring 
of  crystal  water  quenched  our  thirst,  welcome  indeed  on 
that  tedious  ascent  in  the  broiling  sun.  Six  miles  above 
Khela  we  had  risen  to  7120  feet,  and  from  this  point  the 
incline  became  less  trying.  Still  we  rose  to  7450  feet  two 
miles  farther  on,  where,  under  the  shade  of  some  magnifi- 
cent old  trees  at  Pungo,  I  halted  for  lunch.  We  had  en- 
tered the  first  inhabited  village  of  the  Shokas,  usually  but 
erroneously  called  Botiyas,  and  were  now  in  that  part  of 
their  country  called  Chaudas. 

46 


DISGRACE   OF   CHANUEN    SING 

A  pleasant  surprise  awaited  me.  A  smart-looking  lad 
in  European  clothes  came  boldly  forward,  and,  stretching 
out  his  hand,  shook  mine  for  some  considerable  time  in  a 
jovial  and  friendly  fashion. 

"  I  am  a  Christian,"  said  he. 

"  I  should  say  that  you  were  by  the  way  you  shake 
hands." 

"  Yes,  sir,"  he  proceeded.  "  I  have  prepared  for  you 
some  milk,  some  ckapatis  (native  bread),  and  some  nuts. 
Please  accept  them." 

"  Thank  you,"  I  said.  "  You  do  not  seem  to  be  a  bad 
Christian.  What  is  your  name?" 

"  Master  G.  B.  Walter,  sir.     I  teach  in  the  school." 

A  crowd  of  Shokas  had  collected.  Their  first  shyness 
having  worn  off,  they  proved  to  be  polite  and  kind.  The 
naive  nature  and  Graceful  manner  of  the  Shoka  cnrls  struck 

O  O 

me  particularly  on  this  my  first  introduction  to  them. 
Much  less  shy  than  the  men,  they  came  forward  and 
joked  and  laughed  as  if  they  had  known  me  all  their  lives. 
I  wished  to  sketch  two  or  three  of  the  more  attractive. 

"  Where  is  my  book,  Chanden  Sing?"  I  inquired  of  my 
bearer. 

" Hazur  hum  mallum  neh,  Sahib"  (I  do  not  know, 
sir),  was  his  melancholy  answer  as  he  searched  his  empty 
pockets. 

"  Ah !  you  villain !  Is  that  the  care  you  take  of  my 
notes  and  sketches  ?  What  have  you  done  with  them  ?" 

"  Oh,  sahib,  I  drank  some  water  at  the  Dholi  River.  I 
had  the  book  then  in  my  hand.  I  must  have  left  it  on  a 
stone  when  I  stooped  to  drink  water  from  the  stream," 
the  wretched  man  explained. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  Chanden  Sing  was 
promptly  despatched  to  the  spot  he  had  named,  with  strict 
orders  not  to  appear  before  me  again  without  the  book. 

47 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

I  spent  two  or  three  pleasant  hours  in  having  the  primi- 
tive Shoka  weaving-looms,  the  processes  of  spinning  and 
cloth  manufacture,  explained  to  me.  As  can  be  seen 
from  the  following  illustration,  the  weaving-looms  of  the 
Shokas  are  in  every  way  similar  to  those  used  by  the 
Tibetans  proper,  and  are  quite  simple  in  construction. 


SHOKA   WEAVERS 


The  warp  is  kept  at  great  tension,  and  the  cloth-beam  on 
which  the  woven  tissue  is  rolled  rests  on  the  woman's  lap 
during  the  process  of  weaving.  There  are  no  treadles  in 
the  Shoka  loom,  by  which  the  two  sets  of  warp  threads  are 
alternately  raised  or  depressed  between  each  time  that  the 
transverse  thread  is  passed,  and  all  work  is  done  by  hand. 
The  transverse  thread  is  beaten  firmly  home  by  means  of 
a  heavy  prismatic  piece  of  wood.  The  material  used  in 
weaving  is  yak,  or  sheep's  wool,  either  in  its  natural  color 
or  dyed  in  the  primary  colors  of  red  and  blue  and  yellow, 

48 


WEAVING   OF   THE   SHOKAS 

and  one  secondary  only,  green.  Blue  and  red  are  used  in 
the  greater  and  equal  proportion  ;  then  green.  Yellow  is 
very  parsimoniously  used.  The  thread  is  well  twisted 
and  is  subjected  to  no  preparation  before  spinning,  leav- 
ing thus  a  certain  greasinessin  the  closely  woven  material 
that  renders  it  waterproof. 

Shoka  women  are  very  adept  at  this  ancient  art:  they 
use  several  sets  of  heddles,  and  patiently  sit  out-of-doors 
day  after  day  weaving  most  intricate  and  artistic  pat- 
terns. These  colored  tissues,  if  we  except  the  simpler 
ones  with  blue  ground  and  lines  for  women's  garments, 
are  usually  very  narrow  (about  seven  inches  in  width), 
whereas  the  less  elaborate  ones,  such  as  the  white  material 
of  which  men's  clothes  are  made,  average  sixteen  inches. 

The  patterns  in  these  many -colored  materials  are 
woven  from  memory,  and  do  not  contain  curves  or  circles, 
but  are  entirely  composed  of  lines  and  angles,  combina- 
tions of  small  lozenges  and  squares  separated  by  long  tri- 
colored  parallel  lines,  forming,  so  far  as  weaving  is  con- 
cerned, the  main  Shoka  ideas  of  decoration  and  ornament. 
The  fabrics  are  extraordinarily  strong.  The  narrow  col- 
ored cloth  of  better  quality  is  used  mostly  for  making 
bags  in  which  money  and  food  are  carried  ;  the  coarser 
kind  for  the  double  sheep-loads. 

The  more  talented  of  the  Shoka  young  women  show 
much  ingenuity  in  carpet,  or  rather  rug,  making.  They 
have  copied  the  idea  from  old  Chinese  rugs  which  have 
found  their  way  here  via  Lhassa,  and  though  upon  close 
examination  it  is  true  they  differ  considerably  in  quality 
and  manufacture,  they  are  pleasing  enough  to  the  eye. 
These  rugs  are  woven  upon  coarse  thread  matting,  the 
colored  material  being  let  in  vertically.  A  soft  surface 
is  obtained,  not  unlike  in  general  appearance  to  that  of 
Persian  carpets,  but  not  quite  so  pleasant  to  the  touch. 

49 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

These  small  rectangular  ruo-s  are  offered  in  the  houses  of 

o  o 

Shoka  gentlemen  to  guests  to  sit  on,  and  are  also  used  to 
render  the  Tibetan  saddles  less  uncomfortable. 

As  time  went  on  I  became  very  anxious  as  to  the  miss- 
ing book,  for  it  contained  all  my  notes  of  the  journey. 
The  thought  of  its  being  deposited  on  a  rock  washed  by 
a  rapid  stream,  into  which  it  might  easily  slip  and  be  car- 
ried away,  kept  me  in  a  state  of  suspense.  At  last  a  stag- 
gering figure  approached;  it  was  Chanden  Sing,  waving 
the  book  triumphantly  in  the  air.  He  had  run  the  dis- 
tance of  many  miles  down  to  the  river  and  back  so  quick- 
ly that  when  he  reached  me  he  was  utterly  exhausted. 
He  handed  me  the  book,  and  once  more  we  started,  fol- 
lowed by  Walter  and  the  whole  community,  down  the 
steep  incline  to  the  river.  At  this  place  some  of  the 
Shokas  seized  my  hands  and  placed  them  on  their  fore- 
heads, at  the  same  time  making  deep  bows.  Others  em- 
braced my  feet,  while  the  women  folks  bade  me  the  usual 
Hindustani  "Acha  giao  /"  (Go  well !). 

After  some  time  had  been  wasted,  or  at  least  spent,  in 
receiving  these  odd  salutations,  I  persuaded  them  to  re- 
trace their  steps,  and  they  left  me. 

50 


CHAPTER  VIII 


PRAYER  BY  WIND  -  POWER  —  PHOTOGRAPHY  UNDER  DIFFICULTIES  —  A 
NIGHT  OF  MISERY  — DRYING  UP  —  TWO  LADY  MISSIONARIES  -  THEIR 
VALUABLE  WORK— AN  INTERESTING  DINNER-PARTY— AN  "  ECCENTRIC  " 
MAN'S  TEA-PARTY 

To  reach  Shosha  I  had  to  climb  a  further  three  miles, 
which  proved  almost  as  steep  as  the  previous  ascent  to 
Pungo. 

A  curious 
custom  of  pray- 
i  n  g  by  wind- 
power,  probably 
borrowed  from 
the  Tibetans,  pre- 
vails among  the 
Shokas.  The 
Tibetans,  with  a 
more  intense  re- 
ligion than  the 
Shokas,  use  for 
this  purpose  not 
only  the  wind 

but  even  water  to  propel  their  praying-machines.  Let 
me  explain  these  simple  mechanical  contrivances  for 
prayers.  One  or  more  rags  or  pieces  of  cloth,  usually 
white,  but  on  occasions  red  or  blue,  are  fastened  and 
hung  by  one  end  to  a  string  stretched  across  a  road,  a  pass, 
or  a  path.  On  crossing  a  pass  for  the  first  time  Shokas 
invariably  cut  a  strip  of  cloth  and  place  it  so  that  it  will 


SHRINE  AND  FLYING  PRAYERS 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

flap  in  the  breeze.  Also  when  materials  for  a  new  dress 
are  purchased  or  manufactured,  it  is  customary  for  them 
to  tear  off  a  narrow  strip  of  the  stuff  and  make  a  flying 
prayer  of  it.  As  long  as  there  is  motion  in  it  there  is 
prayer,  so  that  the  natives  tie  them  very  fast  to  sticks, 
poles,  or  branches  of  trees  ;  and  certain  shrubs  and  trees 
in  weird,  romantic  spots  on  the  mountains  are  covered 
with  these  religious  signs.  Moreover,  on  the  top  of  near- 
ly every  Shoka  dwelling  a  vast  number  of  similar  little 
flags  can  be  seen,  as  well  as  near  their  shrines  and  at  the 
outer  gates  of  a  village. 

I  put  up  at  the  Titela  Daramsalla,  one  mile  above  Shosha 
village.  The  weather  had  been  threatening  for  several 
days,  and  a  steady  downpour  came  upon  us  during  the 
•evening.  Work  had  been  accumulating  daily.  I  decided 
to  develop  the  large  number  of  plates  I  had  taken  on  my 
journey,  a  job  hateful  beyond  measure  when  you  are  on 
the  move.  Having  duly  unpacked  all  the  developing- 
•dishes  and  prepared  the  different  solutions,  I  set  to  work 
to  make  the  shelter  completely  dark.  The  next  impor- 
tant item  required  was  water,  and  of  this  there  was  plenty 
in  that  wretched  shanty.  I  had  just  developed  half  a 
dozen  negatives,  and  was  delighted  at  the  excellent  re- 
sults, when,  in  consequence  of  the  storm  having  grown 
more  violent,  the  rain  began  dripping  on  my  head  through 
the  leaky  roof  of  the  Daramsalla.  To  move  all  the  trays 
of  developers,  baths,  and  fixing  solution  would  have  been 
a  nuisance;  besides,  I  was  too  interested  in  my  work  to  be 
put  out  by  such  small  trifles,  so  I  patiently  stood  this  new 
discomfort.  I  shifted  my  position  continually,  merely 
with  the  result  that  the  rain  dripped  alternately  on  my 
back,  my  legs,  or  my  shoulders,  according  to  my  position. 
It  fell  in  torrents,  and  the  roof  over  me  was  so  leaky  that 
I  might  as  well  have  been  out  in  the  open.  I  was  sitting 

52 


C  •  '  '  •  ifi 

^       if  i  J  <r   V  r '  w 

mm.' 


A    NIGHT   OF    MISERY 

in  a  pool  of  water,  and  could  not  lay  my  hands  upon  any- 
thing that  was  not  drenched.  Fortunately  my  boxes  and 
cases  were  water-tight,  or  all  the  instruments  and  plates 
would  have  been  damaged. 

Annoying  as  it  was,  I  had  to  give  up  work.  The  best 
thing  to  do  was  to  go  to  sleep.  Easier  said  than  done. 
My  bedding  and  blanket  were  soaked.  The  attempts  to 
He  under  a  waterproof  sheet  failed,  for  I  felt  suffocated, 
so  I  passed  the  cover  to  my  servant,  who,  rolling  himself 
in  it,  was  soon  in  the  arms  of  Morpheus.  Tired  and  dis- 
gusted, I  crouched  myself  up  and  eventually  fell  asleep. 
I  woke  up  in  the  morning  with  a  biting  pain  in  my  toes. 
I  had  been  lying  face  downward,  and  had  involuntarily 
stretched  my  legs  during  the  night.  I  discovered  to  my 
horror  that  one  foot  rested  in  the  developing-bath  and 
the  other  in  the  fixing  solution,  which  I  had  forgotten  to 
empty  out  of  the  large  celluloid  trays. 

The  morning  was  spent  in  drying  up  things  in  the  sun, 
including  our  clothes,  while  we,  clad  in  a  doti  (large 
loin-cloth  used  by  the  natives  of  India),  squatted  down 
in  the  warmth  in  order  to  restore  our  saturated  skins  to 
their  natural  condition. 

I  was  in  the  mean  time  interviewed  by  many  Shokas, 
applying  for  medicines  and  wishing  to  sell  their  native 
wares. 

A  pretty  girl,  from  whom  I  bought  a  curious  set  of  neck 
hanging's  made  of  musk-deer  teeth,  wished  to  be  cured  of 

O        O 

the  goitre,  a  complaint  too  common,  alas !  on  these  hills. 
Then  a  child  was  brought  with  a  nasty  tumor  in  a 
state  of  suppuration  inside  his  left  ear.  Others  wished 
to  be  cured  of  pains  in  the  stomach  and  liver,  which 
are  very  general  among  them,  owing  to  their  abuse  of 
liquor. 

Upon  hearing  that  two  lady  missionaries  lived  a  mile 

53 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 


and  a  half  farther  on,  at  Sirka,  I  gave  myself  the  pleasure 
of  calling  upon  them.  They  possessed  a  nice  bungalow 
at  an  elevation  of  8900  feet  above  sea-level,  by  the  side  of 
which  was  another  structure  for  the  accommodation  of 
converts  and  servants.  Lower  on  the  hill-side  they  had 
built  a  dispensary  and  hospital. 

I  was  received  with  the  utmost  courtesy  by  Miss  Shel- 
don, M.D.,  and  Miss  Brown,  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 

Mission.  I  have  in  my  lifetime 
met  with  many  missionaries  of  all 
creeds  in  nearly  every  part  of  the 
globe,  but  never  has  it  been  my 
luck  before  to  meet  two  such 
charming,  open-minded,  and  really 
hard-working  ladies  as  the  two 
who  now  so  kindly  received  me. 

"Come  -right  in,  Mr.  Landor," 
said  Miss  Sheldon,  with  her  de- 
lightful American  accent,  and  she 
shook  hands  with  me  in  a  good, 
hearty  fashion. 

The  natives  had  praised  to  me 

the  charity  and  helpfulness  of  this  lady.  I  found  this 
more  than  justified.  By  night  or  day  she  would  never  re- 
fuse help  to  the  sick,  and  her  deeds  of  kindness  which 
became  known  to  me  are  far  too  numerous  to  detail  in 
these  pages.  Perhaps  her  most  valuable  quality  is  her 
perfect  tact — a  quality  I  have  found  none  too  common 
among  missionaries.  Her  patience,  her  kindly  manner 
towards  the  Shokas,  her  good  heart,  the  wonderful  cures 
she  wrought  among  the  sick,  were  items  of  which  these 
honest  mountaineers  had  everlasting  praises  to  sing.  A 
Shoka  was  telling  me  that  it  was  not  an  uncommon  thing 
for  Miss  Sheldon  to  give  away  all  her  own  food  supplies, 

54 


WRINKLED   SHOKA 


WORTHY   MISSIONARIES 

and  even  the  clothes  from  her  back  —  courting  for  her- 

o 

self  discomfort,  yet  happy  in  her  good  work. 

With  it  was  combined  a  charming  modesty.  No  word 
about  herself  or  her  actions  ever  passed  her  lips.  A 
pioneer  in  these  parts,  she  evidently  must  have  encoun- 
tered much  difficulty  in  the  beginning.  At  present  her 
good  influence  over  the  Shokas  is  very  considerable. 


LAL   SING  TOKUDAR   AND   HIS   BROTHER 


The  same  can  be  said  of  Miss  Brown,  who  was  in  every 
way  a  worthy  comrade  of  Miss  Sheldon. 

They  have  both,  in  a  comparatively  short  time,  become 
fully  acquainted  with  the  Shoka  language,  and  can  con- 
verse in  it  as  fluently  as  in  English,  this  fact  alone  en- 
dearing them  greatly  to  the  natives. 

They  were  kind  enough  to  ask  me  to  dinner.  "  It  is 
Sunday,"  said  Miss  Sheldon,  "  and  we  shall  have  all  our 
Christians  dining  with  us.  You  will  not  mind,  I  am  sure." 

I  assured  her  that  nothing  would  interest  me  more. 

I  arrived  punctually  at  the  hour  appointed,  and  on  the 
veranda  of  the  bungalow  were  laid  some  nice  clean  mats,, 
upon  which  we  all  sat  cross-legged  in  native  fashion.  We 

55 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

three  Europeans  were  provided  with  knife  and  fork,  but 
all  the  natives  helped  themselves  with  their  fingers,  which 
they  used  with  much  dexterity.  There  were  among  the 
converts  some  Hindoos,  some  Shokas,  some  Humlis,  and 
a  Tibetan  woman.  All  counted,  I  suppose  there  were 
about  twenty,  and  it  would  be  impossible  to  find  a  better- 
behaved  set  of  Christians  anywhere.  They  ate  heartily, 
and  only  spoke  when  they  were  spoken  to. 

"  I  doubt  whether  I  have  ever  dined  with  so  many  good 
Christians,"  said  I,  jokingly,  to  Miss  Sheldon.  "  It  is  de- 
lightful." 

"  They  would  much  like  to  hear  some  of  the  experiences 
of  your  travels,  if  you  would  be  kind  enough  to  tell  them. 
That  is  to  say,  if  you  are  not  too  tired  and  do  not 
mind." 

Interpreted  by  Miss  Brown,  I  related  some  of  my  ad- 
ventures in  the  country  of  the  Ainu.  Rarely  have  I  had 
such  an  interested  audience.  When  the  story  ended  they 
all  salaamed  me,  and  an  old  veteran  Gourkha,  one  of  the 
converts,  took  my  hand  and  shook  it  warmly. 

"  You  must  not  mind,  Mr.  Landor;  you  see,  we  treat 
our  Christians  like  ourselves,"*  quickly  interrupted  Miss 
Sheldon. 

"  Oh  no,  I  do  not  mind,"  I  replied.  "  On  the  contrary,  I 
am  glad  to  see  it  done." 

I  took  my  leave  and  asked  the  ladies  to  come  to  tea 
with  me  the  next  day.  The  afternoon  came  and  they 
arrived,  when,  to  my  horror,  it  flashed  across  my  mind 
that  I  had  neither  cups  nor  saucers  nor  spoons.  I  had 
some  tea,  but  I  had  no  idea  in  which  box  it  was,  and,  to 
save  my  life,  I  could  not  lay  my  hands  upon  it.  This 

*  N.B. — Anglo-Indians  very  rarely  condescend  to  shake  hands  with  the 
natives. 

56 


HOW   TO    GIVE   A    TEA-PARTY 

caused  a  frank  and  delightful  remark  on  the  part  of  Miss 
Sheldon  to  Miss  Brown. 

"  Does  not  Mr.  Landor  remind  you  of  '  that  other '  ec- 
centric gentleman  that  came  through  here  last  year?" 

The  moment  she  had  uttered  the  words  Miss  Sheldon 
sa\v  what  she  had  said,  and  we  all  laughed  heartily. 

"  You  know,  Mr.  Landor,"  put  in  Miss  Brown,  u  we  half 
foresaw  that  you  would  not  be  provided  with  these  articles 
of  luxury,  and  we  brought  our  own  cups  and  saucers." 

The  news  was  a  great  relief  to  me. 

"  Well,  now,  let  me  persuade  you  to  take  some  delicious 
chocolate  instead  of  tea." 

"  Very  good,  we  would  prefer  it.  We  have  not  had 
chocolate  for  a  long  time." 

A  solid  block  of  chocolate  was  produced  weighing 
twenty-eight  pounds,  and  Chanden  Sing  set  to  work  to 
chip  off  bits  with  a  stone — a  primitive  but  effective  meth- 
od. In  the  mean  time  the  kettle  was  boiling,  while  my 
two  visitors  made  themselves  as  comfortable  as  was  pos- 
sible under  the  circumstances  on  pack-saddle  cases. 

The  tea-party  went  off  well,  for  the  ladies,  evidently  sus- 
pecting the  "  eccentricity  "  of  their  host,  had  come  pro- 
vided not  only  with  cups  and  saucers,  but  with  spoons, 
cake,  bread,  butter,  and  biscuits ! 

57 


I. — E 


CHAPTER   IX 

DISCOURAGING  REPORTS — A  STEEP  ASCENT — HOW  I  CAME  TO  DESERVE 
THE  NAME  OF  "  MONKEY  " — HARD  AT  WORK — PROMOTED  IN  RANK — 
COLLAPSE  IN  A  GALE  OF  WIND — TIME  AND  LABOR  LOST 

THE  weather  again  became  rainy  and  cold.  The  re- 
ports that  I  received  of  the  state  of  the  roads  farther  up 
were  not  encouraging. 

"  The  track  is  impassable,"  said  an  old  Shoka  who  had 
just  arrived  from  Garbyang.  "  The  Lippu  Pass,  by  which 
you  wish  to  enter  Tibet,  is  still  closed,  and  there  is  much 
snow  on  it  still.  Then  the  Jong  Pen  of  Taklakot,  in  Tibet, 
having  been  left  unpunished  for  his  last  year's  attack 
on  Lieutenant  Gaussen,  has  now  a  strong  guard  of  three 
hundred  men  to  prevent  foreigners  entering  the  country. 
The  Dakus  (brigands)  infesting  the  region  of  the  Man- 
sarowar  Lake  seem  to  be  more  numerous  this  year  than 
ever." 

I  shall  come  in  for  a  lively  time,  I  thought  to  myself. 

My  next  camp  was  at  Shankula,  7450  feet  above  the 
sea-level.  It  was  reached  by  going  over  a  delightfully 
cool  track,  not  unlike  a  shady  path  through  a  picturesque 
park,  among  tall  cedars  of  Lebanon,  beeches,  and  maples, 
with  here  and  there  a  stream  or  spring  of  water,  and  hun- 
dreds of  black-faced,  white-bearded  monkeys  playing  and 
leaping  from  tree  to  tree. 

I  encamped  by  the  river.  The  day  was  glorious.  In 
front  of  me,  northeast  by  east,  stood,  gigantic  and  majestic, 
some  high  snowy  peaks.  The  valley  was  narrow,  and  the 

58 


A   STEEP    CLIMB 

remainder  of  the  snowy  range  of  mountains  was  hidden 
from  sight.  What  a  lovely  subject  for  a  picture!  I  was 
tempted  to  halt  and  get  out  my  paint-box  and  sketch- 
book ;  and  abandoning  my  lunch,  which  was  being  cooked, 
I  climbed  to  the  summit  of  a  high  peak  in  order  to  ob- 
tain a  more  extensive  view.  The  ascent,  first  on  slippery 
grass,  then  over  slaty  rocks,  was  by  no  means  easy,  nor 
devoid  of  a  certain  amount  of  danger;  but  so  keen  was  I 
to  get  to  the  top  that  I  reached  the  summit  very  quickly, 
leaving  half-way  down  the  mountain  slope  the  two  men 
who  had  followed  me.  In  places  near  the  top  there  were 
rocks  to  climb  that  stood  almost  perpendicular,  and  it  was 
necessary  to  use  hands  as  well  as  feet.  It  was  not  unlike 
climbing  up  a  rough  wall.  I  was  nevertheless  well  repaid 
for  my  trouble.  The  view  from  that  high  point  of  vantage 
was  magnificent,  and  I  confess  that  I  felt  almost  too  am- 
bitious when,  having  unslung  my  paint-box,  I  attempted 
to  reproduce  on  paper  the  scene  before  me. 

"  I  am  a  fool,"  said  I  to  myself,  "  to  try  and  paint  that ! 
What  painter  could  do  those  mountains  justice!" 

I  dashed  off  the  picture,  as  usual,  very  hastily,  but  never 
-was  a  rash  venture  rewarded  with  poorer  result,  and  those 
eternal  giants  remained  unpainted. 

Disconsolate,  I  made  my  way  down.  It  was  more  diffi- 
cult even  than  the  climb  up.  A  false  step,  a  slip,  and  it 
might  have  cost  me  my  life,  especially  along  the  steep 
precipice,  where  I  had  to  cling  to  anything  projecting 
in  the  wall -like  rock.  I  had  gone  four  thousand  feet 
higher  than  the  camp,  reaching  an  elevation  of  11,450 
feet  above  sea-level. 

It  was  this  performance,"watched  anxiously  from  my 
camp  down  below,  as  well  as  by  the  army  of  men  belong- 
ing to  the  Deputy  Commissioner  of  Almora,  who  was 
also  here  encamped,  that  won  me  the  name  among  the 

59 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

natives  of  "  Chota  Sahib,"  the  "  Langur,"  the  "  small  sir," 
the  "  monkey,"  a  name  of  which  I  have  been  proud  ever 
since. 

Some  seventy-three  miles  from  Pithoragarh  the  Shan- 
kula  River  enters  the  Kali,  the  course  of  the  Shankula 
being  roughly  from  north-northwest  to  south-southeast. 

The  track  once  crossed,  the  Shankula  stream  tends 
towards  the  southeast,  and  with  a  gentle  incline  rises  to 
8570  feet  at  Gibti,  where  I  encamped  somewhat  above 
the  Gala  Daramsalla.  I  had  gone  through  forests  of 
maple,  beech,  oak,  and  rhododendrons,  with  a  thick  under- 
growth of  scrub  and  bamboo. 

The  Kali  River,  about  two  thousand  feet  down  below 
my  camp,  marks  the  boundary  between  Nepal  and  Kuma- 
on.  From  this  high  point  the  foaming  stream  can  be 
seen  for  miles,  winding  between  thickly  wooded  hills  and 
mountains  like  a  silver  ribbon  on  a  dark,  reposeful  back- 
ground. 

The  march  from  my  last  camp  was  a  very  short  one,  so 
I  had  the  greater  part  of  the  day  left  for  work.  Previously 
I  had  usually  halted  in  Daramsallas  (stone-walled  shelters), 
and  in  default  of  these  my  men  put  up  for  me  a  neatly 
made  "Chahna,'"1  or  "chopper,"  a  hut  of  mats  and 
branches  of  trees,  in  the  construction  of  which  the  Paharis 
are  wonderfully  dexterous.  I  had  also  my  small  "  moun- 
tain tent,"  a  tente  cCabri,  quite  comfortable  enough  for 
ordinary  requirements. 

It  seems,  however,  that  this  style  of  travelling  is  not 
considered  comme  il  faut  by  the  officials  of  India.  It  is 
the  number  and  size  of  one's  tents,  according  to  these  au- 
thorities, that  make  one  a  greater  or  a  smaller  gentleman. 
I  had  put  up  my  tent — three  feet  high,  seven  feet  long, 

*  Chahna — Pahari.     Chopper,  Dehsi — Hindustani. 
60 


RANK   SETTLED    BY  SIZE    OF   TENT 

and  four  feet  wide  —  by  the  side  of  the  two  double-leaf 
eighty-pound  tents  of  the  Deputy  Commissioner,  but  this 
official  and  his  companions  were  far  from  pleased  with 
this  act  of  familiarity.  For  a  double-tented  sahib  to  be 
seen  in  company  with  another  sahib  whose  bijou  tent  rose 
from  the  ground  hardly  up  to  one's  waist  was  infra 


THE  TENT 


and  a  serious  threat  to  the  prestige  of  the  British  in  India. 
I  was  therefore  politely  requested  to  move  from  my  cosey 
quarters  to  a  more  dignified  abode  lent  me  by  the  one- 
eyed  Lai  Sing,  a  Tokudar*  and  brother  of  the  Patwari.t 

Being  thus  promoted  in  everybody's  estimation  except 
my  own,  I  wrote  and  copied  out  my  first  article  for  The 

*  Tokudar— Head  village  man.     t  Patwart  —  Accountant  for  a  Par- 
gana. 

6l 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Daily  Mail,  and,  having  done  this,  I  dined  and  spent  a 
pleasant  evening  with  Mr.  G. 

The  night  was  stormy ;  the  wind  shook  my  tent.  I 
went  to  sleep  wrapped  in  my  solitary  camel-hair  blanket. 
Some  hours  later  a  sharp  knock  on  my  head  woke  me. 
It  was  the  centre  pole  of  the  tent  that  had  moved  out  of 
its  socket  and  had  fallen  on  me.  This  was  followed  by 
a  rushing  noise  of  canvas,  and  I  found  myself  in  a  mo- 
ment uncovered  and  gazing  at  the  stars. 

There  were  white  things  flying  about  in  the  air,  and, 
to  my  horror,  I  discovered  the  leaves  of  my  Daily  Mail 
article  scattered  in  the  wind. 

I  jumped  up,  but  of  the  ten  or  twelve  foolscap  leaves  of 
very  thin  paper  I  only  managed  to  recover  two  or  three. 
The  others  soared  gracefully  to  and  fro  in  the  air,  and  I 
suppose  settled  eventually  in  the  Kali.  This  meant  re- 
copying  the1  article  next  day,  a  tedious  job  when  you  are 
burning  to  get  on. 

The  sun  rose.  The  camp  began  to  wake  up.  All 
were  shivering  with  cold.  I  took  my  usual  cold  bath,  sur- 
rounded by  a  half-frozen  crowd  of  astonished  onlookers, 
wrapped  up  in  their  thick  woollen  blankets,  crouching 
round  me  with  their  chins  on  their  knees. 

The  tent  was  recovered  after  a  while,  and  soon  all  was 
ready  to  start. 

62 


CHAPTER   X 


THE  NERPANI,  OR  "WATERLESS  TRACK" — EXAGGERATED  ACCOUNTS — 
A  LONG  SHOT — THE  RESCUE  OF  TWO  COOLIES — PICTURESQUE  NAT- 
URE—AN INVOLUNTARY  SHOWER-BATH— THE  CHAI  PASS 

THE  renowned  Nerpani,  or  Nerpania,  "  waterless  track," 
begins  at  Gibti.     Very  few  travellers  have  been  on  this 
road,  and  by  the   accounts 
brought  back  many  people 
have   been  prevented  from 
imitating  their  example. 

Personally  I  found  the 
track  far  better  than  I  an- 
ticipated. I  have  been  on 
worse  mountain  roads, 
among  less  precipitous 
cliffs.  From  what  I  had 
heard  it  seemed  as  if  the 
greater  part  of  the  road  for 
several  miles  was  supported 
on  crow-bars  fixed  in  the 

rock,  but  such  is  not  the  case.  Here  and  there,  how- 
ever, are  spots  where  tracks  have  to  be  trodden  upon 
overhanging  precipices;  and  where  the  perpendicular 
cliff  did  not  allow  of  a  road  to  be  cut  except  at  great  ex- 
pense, crow-bars  have  been  more  or  less  firmly  planted 
horizontally  in  the  rock,  and  a  narrow  path  made  over 
them  with  large  slabs  of  stone.  The  drop  from  the  path 
to  the  river  is  often  from  eighteen  hundred  to  two  thou- 
sand feet,  and  the  path  is  in  many  places  no  wider  than 

63 


NERPANI   ROAD 


IN   THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

six  inches.  But  to  any  sure-footed  traveller  that  \vould 
not  constitute  a  real  danger.  The  road  is  tedious,  for 
the  Nerpania  cliff  along  which  it  has  been  constructed  is 
subdivided  into  three  smaller  cliffs,  separated  in  turn  one 
from  the  other  by  ravines.  It  is  thus  troublesome  to 
climb  up  and  down  some  thousands  of  feet,  each  time 
along  interminable  and  badly  put  together  flights  of 
steps,  only  to  descend  again  on  the  other  side.  Some  of 
the  descents,  especially  the  last  to  Gulamla,  are  precipi- 
tous ;  but  with  no  nails  in  one's  shoes  and  no  stick  in 
one's  hand,  there  is  really  very  little  danger  for  people 
accustomed  to  mountaineering. 

These  are  the  main  elevations  on  the  road :  Gibti, 
8650  feet,  6750  feet,  7600  feet,  6700  feet,  7100  feet,  6600 
feet  from  Gulamla.  At  bearings  magnetic  350°,  going 
close  to  the  river-bed  through  a  gorge,  one  obtains  a  fine 
view  of  a  huge  gneiss  peak  towering  on  the  left  side  of 
the  Neganza,  or  Nejangas,  Mountain.  This  peculiar  rock, 
shaped  like  a  fortress,  goes  by  the  name  of  the  Ladjekut 
Peak,  and  rises  where  the  Nejangar  River  meets  the 
Kali.  Here  we  pitched  our  tents. 

Towards  sunset  there  was  much  agitation  in  camp 
over  the  appearance  of  wild  goats  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Kali  River  in  Nepal. 

"Your  rifle,  sahib — your  rifle!"  shouted  a  chorus  of 
impatient  natives.  "  Quick,  quick,  your  rifle !" 

I  seized  my  Mannlicher  and  followed  the  excited  gang 
to  a  place  some  hundred  yards  away,  where  a  large, 
boisterous  crowd  had  collected  to  watch  the  game. 

"  Where  are  they?"  said  I,  as  I  could  not  see  anything. 

"There!  there!"  they  all  screamed  at  the  top  of  their 
voices,  pointing  to  the  summit  of  the  opposite  cliff,  over 
four  hundred  yards  distant. 

"  Oh,  that  is  too  far." 

64 


A  GOOD  SHOT  AND  WHAT  FOLLOWED 

"  No,  no,  sahib ;  please  shoot,"  they  all  implored. 

I  put  up  the  Lyman  back-sight  to  four  hundred  yards,, 
took  aim,  and  fired.  Down  came  rolling  from  rock  to 
rock  the  poor  wild  goat,  amid  the  frantic  excitement  of 
the  crowd  around  me.  It  rolled  down  until  it  came  to 
the  shrub  and  vegetation,  where  its  progress  became 
slower.  It  fell  on  the  small  trees,  and,  bending  them  by 
its  weight,  it  would  drop  a  few  seconds  later  on  to  a 
lower  one.  The  trepidation  on  our  side  was  intense. 
At  last  the  graceful  body  struck  across  a  bigger  tree  and 
swung  on  it  for  some  minutes.  The  oscillation  slowly 
ceased,  and  tree  and  goat  became  motionless.  There  our 
prey  stuck  fast. 

Hatchets  were  immediately  produced,  and  two  tall 
trees  hurriedly  cut  and  felled.  A  bridge  was  being 
spanned  to  cross  the  dangerous  cold  and  swift  waters  of 
the  Kali.  A  tree  was  thrown  across,  and  its  point  just 
about  reached  a  high  rock  on  the  other  side.  Then, 
amid  a  dead  silence,  a  coolie  balanced  himself  over  it. 
He  had  nearly  reached  the  opposite  bank  when  there 
was  a  crash.  The  tree  broke,  and  the  man  was  in  the 
water,  frightened  and  screaming  pitifully,  clutching  a 
branch  with  convulsive  fingers. 

Another  coolie  went  to  his  rescue,  but  the  tree  being 
now  swung  by  the  current,  he  also  was  pitched  into  the 
water.  It  was  only  after  a  terrible  moment  of  suspense 
that  our  men  had  the  common -sense  to  draw  the  tree 
back  towards  the  shore.  One  and  all  joined  in  a  supreme 
effort,  and  the  two  men  were  eventually  saved. 

Our  way  to  the  next  camp  was  first  through  a  high,, 
narrow  gorge.  A  beautiful  waterfall  on  terraces  faced 

£>.     ?> 

us.     From  6700  feet   the   road  ascended    to    7650  feet, 
then  on  flights  of  steps  and  in  places  over  crow-bars  the 
weary  traveller  descended  to  7000  feet,  where  at  Malpa 
i.— E  65 


IN   THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

the  road  was  for  a  space  nearly  level.  The  Malpa  River, 
running  from  north  to  south,  was  crossed.  On  the 
Nepal  side  across  the  Kali  the  vegetation  was  luxuriant, 
while  on  the  Kumaon  side  it  was  sparse  and  bare. 
Farther  on,  another  beautiful  waterfall. 


THE    \RRP\XI    T50AD 


The  track  now  rose  on  a  steep  incline  to  8120  feet 
among  huge  rocks  and  bowlders.  What  with  the  gi- 
gantic snow-peaks,  the  pretty  waterfalls,  the  weird  char- 
acter of  the  country  traversed,  one  got  so  interested  in 
one's  surroundings  that  one  forgot  all  about  any  difficulty 
of  climbing. 

From  barren  hills  and  rocks  the  track  suddenly  be- 
came clayfsh  and  sandy,  and  in  a  series  of  zig-zags 
well  shaded  by  Tchuk,  Utish,  and  Ritch  trees,  with  a 

66 


te* 


BrocUuuu.  Uipzig  (0trnwmt). 


THE   NERPANI    TRACK. 


LAHMARI    CAMP 


thick  undergrowth  of  scrub  wood  and  stunted  vegetation, 
we  found  ourselves  clown  as  low  as  6750  feet,  ascending 
immediately  after  in  a  very  short  distance  to  8100  feet  to 
Camp  Lahmari. 

In  olden  times  the  path  went  over  the  highest  part  of 
the   cliff,  and   it   took   a  good   walker  the  whole  day  to 


, 

.     .'     :.v  -  *       ' 


THE   NERPANI    ROAD 

reach  from   one  spring  of  water  to  the  next — hence  the 
name  of  "  waterless." 

Here  practically  ended  the  Nerpani  (waterless  track), 
and  an  involuntary  shower-bath  soon  awaited  the  passer- 
by, drenching  him  to  the  skin,  unless  he  was  provided 
with  waterproof  and  umbrella.  The  spray  descended 
from  a  great  height  for  a  length  of  some  thirty  or  forty 
yards,  the  road  being  very  narrow  and  very  slipper}',  so 

67 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

that  progress  was  particularly  slow.  The  name  of  the 
waterfall  was  Takti. 

The  track,  if  not  more  level,  was  nevertheless  better 
after  this  to  the  sore -footed  walker.  It  was  less  rocky, 
and  devoid  of  the  tiresome  flights  of  steps. 

On  leaving  Lahmari  we  immediately  had  a  steep  rise 
to  9600  feet.  Then  a  drop  of  400  feet,  and  we  found 


THE    CHAI-LEK    PASS 


ourselves  on  the  Buddi  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Kali. 
Just  above  the  bridge  was  a  magnificent  waterfall,  by 
the  left  side  of  which  we  found  a  kind  of  grotto  hol- 
lowed out  under  a  rock.  The  Shokas  and  Tibetans  used 
it  as  a  camping-ground. 

To  our  right,  high  up  on  the  cliff -side,  was  the  pict- 
uresque village  of  Buddi  (9300  feet),  with  its  two  and 
three  storied  houses.  Below  and  over  it  in  long  zigzags 

68 


THE   CHAI    PASS 

could  be  seen  the  track  ascending  to  the  top  of  C/iai- 
Lek,  or  Tcheto  Pass,  as  the  Shokas  call  it.  At  bearings 
magnetic  170°  \ve  had  the  towering  Namjun  peak,  so 
high  that  I  was  told  it  could  be  seen  even  from  Almora 
and  Ranikhet. 

Then  as  we  proceeded  up  the  steep  clayish   track  I 
could  not,  on   looking  back,  help  admiring  the  magnifi- 


NARROW   GORGE   BETWEEN   TWO    MOUNTAINS 

cent  Kali  valley,  with  its  gigantic  cliffs  and  gorges  sur- 
mounted by  lofty  snow  peaks.  On  that  Chai  Pass  my 
two  aneroids  registered  an  altitude  of  11,190  feet.  I  was 
now  on  a  small,  flat  table-land.  Darcy  Bura,  the  richest 
Shoka  trader  from  Buddi,  had.  erected  here  a  bargain- 
house  for  the  purchase  and  exchange  of  borax,  salt,  wool, 
and  other  articles  from  Tibet.  On  the  left  side  of  the 
road  a  large  cave  in  the  rock  had  been  walled  and  partly 

69 


IX    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

roofed  over  for  the  use  of  wife-seekers  from  the  villages 
of  Buddi  and  Garb  van  Q[.  These  houses  were  called 

./         o 

Rambangs,  and  were  an  old  institution  among  the  Shokas, 
of  which  I  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  at  length  later 
on.  As  everywhere  else,  a  few  high  poles  with  flying 
prayers  and  a  bell  had  been  placed  near  the  pass. 


CHAPTER    XI 

A  SERIES  OF  MISFORTUNES  —  TIBETAN  ATROCITIES  ON  BRITISH  SUB- 
JECTS— TIBETAN  EXACTIONS — REVOLTING  CRUELTY  TO  ONE  OF  HER 
MAJESTY'S  SUBJECTS  —  ASSAULT  ON  A  BRITISH  OFFICER  —  A  SMART 
BRITISH  ENVOY 

MY  arrival  at  Garbyang  was  watched  by  hundreds  of 
men,  women,  and  children,  all  squatting  on  the  edge  of 
the  flat  mud  roofs  of  their  habitations,  while  a  few  dozen 
people  followed  me  respectfully  to  my  camping-ground 
beyond  the  village.  A  large  tent  had  been  put  up  for  me 
by  Pundit  Gobaria's  brother,  who  had  been  informed  of 
my  coming  by  Anti  Ram  Sah,  my  banker  at  Almora. 
Mr.  G.,  Deputy  Commissioner,  arrived  later. 

I  was  very  anxious  to  make  immediate  arrangements 
to  enter  Tibet,  but  all  my  efforts  to  obtain  reliable  follow- 
ers were  of  little  avail. 

I  heard  to  my  regret,  a  day  or  two  later,  that  the  plan 
of  my  journey,  which  with  so  much  trouble  and  care  I  had 
kept  secret,  had  been  divulged  to  the  Tibetan  authorities. 
Misfortunes  never  come  singly  !  Against  my  will  I  had 
been  advised  to  pay  a  certain  sum  at  Almora,  in  exchange 
for  which  I  received  a  letter  of  credit  on  Pundit  Gobaria, 
a  rich  trader  of  Garbyang,  who  was  to  pay  me  the  amount 
in  silver.  Unluckily,  Gobaria  was  still  absent  in  Nepal, 
and  no  one  else  could  cash  -a  check  for  the  amount  I 
wanted.  This  was  tiresome  —  all  the  more  so  as  I  had 
counted  on  the  money.  I  immediately  sent  a  runner  to 
Almora  to  have  the  sum  in  silver  sent  at  once.  This  in- 
volved much  publicity  and  considerable  risk. 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Also  delay  was  inevitable.  All  the  passes  were  closed 
and  fresh  snow  was  falling  daily.  It  was  just  possible 
with  much  difficulty  for  a  man  to  cross  the  Lippu  Pass,  but 
no  baggage  could  be  taken  through.  I  made  up  my  mind 
to  remain  a  few  days  in  Garbyang,  and  took  this  oppor- 
tunity to  have  a  large  Tibetan  tent  manufactured  to  shel- 


I 


THE  GATES  OF  GARBYANG 

ter  my  future  followers — if  ever  I  could  find  any — and  it 
might  help  me,  I  calculated,  to  become  friendly  with  the 
natives,  among  whom  I  hoped  to  find  some  willing  fol- 
lowers. 

Dr.  H.  Wilson,  of  the  Methodist  Evangelical  Mission, 
went  to  much  trouble  in  trying  to  get  together  men  for 
me,  but,  though  his  influence  was  and  is  considerable  in 
Bias  and  Chaudas,  his  efforts  were  not  crowned  with  suc- 

72 


I.— F 


CASES    OF   TIBETAN    CRUELTY 

cess.  The  Shokas  know  well  how  terribly  cruel  the  Tibe- 
tans are.  They  have  suffered  at  their  hands  more  than 
once,  and  even  of  recent  years  the  Government  of  India 
has  had  reported  by  its  own  officers  cases  of  horrible  tort- 
ures inflicted  by  the  Tibetan  authorities  on  British  sub- 
jects captured  by  them  on  our  side  of  the  frontier.  Some 
of  the  atrocities  committed  by  the  Lamas  on  British  sub- 
jects are  revolting,  and  it  is  a  matter  of  great  regret  and 
indignation  to  the  Englishmen  who  visit  these  regions  to 
think  that  the  weakness  of  our  officials  in  Kumaon  has  al- 
lowed and  is  allowing  such  proceedings  still  to  go  on.  So 
incapable  are  they,  in  fact,  that  the  Jong  Pen  of  Taklakot, 
in  Tibet,  sends  over,  "with  the  sanction  of  the  Govern- 
ment of  India,"  his  yearly  emissaries  to  collect  Land 
Revenue*  from  British  subjects  living  on  British  soil. 
The  Shokas  have  to  pay  this  tribute — and  do  so  out  of 
fear — in  addition  to  other  taxes  and  trade  dues  iniqui- 
tously  exacted  by  the  Tibetans. 

On  the  slightest  pretext  the  Tibetans  arrest,  torture 
mercilessly,  fine,  and  confiscate  property  of  British  sub- 
jects on  British  territory. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit  there  could  be  seen,  in  Gar- 
byang  and  other  villages,  British  subjects  (Shokas)  who 
had  been  mutilated  by  the  Tibetan  authorities. 

Even  Dr.  H.  Wilson,  who  had  erected  a  dispensary  at 
Gungi  (one  march  beyond  Garbyang),  was  lately  threat- 
ened with  confiscation  —  and  worse  perhaps  —  if  he  did 
not  immediately  comply  with  the  exactions  of  the  Tibe- 
tans. He  declined  to  do  so,  and  reported  the  matter  to 
the  Government,  relying  on  a  good  rifle  in  the  house  and 
his  many  servants.  His  determination  not  to  be  intimi- 


*  The  sums  are  now  collected  by  the  Political  Peshkar  and  handed 
over  in  Garbyang  to  the  Tibetans. 

73 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

dated  seems  to  have  given  him  temporary  security,  for  the 
Tibetans  are  as  cowardly,  when  they  think  themselves 
matched,  as  they  are  cruel. 

Let  me  quote  one  example  of  cruelty  which  occurred 
as  late  as  1896.  A  Shoka  trader,  undeniably  a  British 
subject,  had  gone  over  the  border,  as  is  customary  with 
them  during  the  summer,  to  dispose  of  his  merchandise 
in  the  Tibetan  market.  He  and  another  Shoka,  also  a 
British  subject,  had  a  quarrel.  Aware  that  the  first 
Shoka  was  wealthy,  the  Tibetan  authorities  took  this  pre- 
text to  arrest  him  and  impose  upon  him  an  exorbitant 
fine,  besides,  the  additional  punishment  of  two  hundred 
lashes,  to  be  administered  to  him  by  order  of  the  Jong 
Pen.  The  Shoka  remonstrated,  on  the  plea  that  he  had 
done  no  harm,  arid  that,  being  a  British  subject,  they  had 
no  right  to  so  punish  him.  The  Jong  Pen  saw  his  orders 
executed,  and  further  commanded  his  men  to  cut  off  the 
wretched  prisoner's  hands.  He  was  made  over  to  two 
soldiers  intrusted  with  the  carrying-out  of  the  sentence. 
They  led  him  away  to  the  place  of  punishment.  The 
Shoka  was  of  a  powerful  build  and  possessed  courage. 
Though  half  dead  and  covered  writh  wounds,  he  overcame 
his  guardians  and  escaped.  The  alarm  was  instantly 
given  and  a  large  party  of  horsemen  sent  to  capture  him. 
They  caught  him  up,  and  when  at  close  range  fired  on 
him  and  wounded  him  in  the  knee,  smashing  the  knee- 
cap. He  was  surrounded,  pounced  upon,  beaten  merci- 
lessly, and,  last  but  not  least,  all  his  fingers  were  one  by 
one  crushed  into  pulp  between  two  heavy  stones.  In 
this  condition  he  was  dragged  before  the  Lamas,  only  to 
be  decapitated !  Mr.  Sturt,  an  able  and  just  officer,  who 
was  then  Deputy  Commissioner  at  Almora,  became  ac- 
quainted with  these  facts,  and,  having  fully  ascertained 
their  accuracy,  reported  them  to  the  Government,  strong- 

74 


ATTACK   ON    A    BRITISH    OFFICER 


ly  advising  immediate  action  against  the  Tibetans  for 
this  and  other  cruelties  that  were  constantly  taking  place 
on  our  frontier.  Though  it  was  undeniably  proved  that 
the  victim  was  a  British  subject,  the  Government  of  India 
took  no  steps  in  the  matter. 

The  same  year,  1896,  Lieutenant  Gaussen,  who   on  a 
shooting-trip  tried  to  enter  Tibet  by  the  Lippu  Pass,  was 


MATAN   SING   CHAPRASSI 


NARENGHIRI    CHAPRASSI 


surrounded  by  Tibetan  soldiers,  and  he  and  his  servants 
were  seriously  ill-treated.  The  British  officer  received  a 
nasty  wound  on  his  forehead,  and  one  of  his  servants,  who 
behaved  heroically,  was  so  cruelly  handled  that  to-day,  two 
years  later,  I  hear  he  is  still  an  invalid. 

Mr.  J.  Larkin,  Deputy  Collector  at  Almora,  was  then 
despatched  to  the  frontier.  No  better  man  could  have 
been  sent  Firm,  just,  and  painstaking,  he  became  popu- 
lar and  much  respected  among  the  Shokas.  He  listened 
to  their  troubles  and  sufferings ;  he  administered  justice 
wherever  possible.  He  refused  audience  to  no  one,  and 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

during  his  flying  visit  became  well  acquainted  with  the 
country,  the  people,  and  all  that  went  on.  The  poor 
Shokas  felt  much  relieved,  thinking  that  at  last  the 
Tibetan  abuses  would  be  put  an  end  to.  They  were 
not  mistaken,  at  least  for  a  time.  The  Jong  Pen  of 
Taklakot  was  called  upon  to  answer  for  his  many  mis- 
deeds. He  refused  an  interview.  Mr.  Larkin  sent  word 
across  the  border  that  he  would  have  no  trifling  and 
that  he  must  come,  upon  which  the  Jong  Pen,  with 
his  officers  and  Lamas,  crossed  the  snowy  Lippu  Pass. 
Trembling  with  fear  and  bending  low  to  the  ground,  the 
Tibetans,  with  abject  servility,  entered  the  tent  of  our 
British  envoy.  The  account  of  the  interview,  which  I 
received  in  full  from  a  Shoka  gentleman  who  was  pres- 
ent as  interpreter,  is  amusing  and  curious,  showing  the 
mutability  and  hypocrisy  of  the  Tibetans.  In  the  long- 
run,  and  being  well  acquainted  with  the  cowardice  of  his 
visitors,  Mr.  Larkin  not  only  obtained  redress  on  every 
point,  but  gave  the  Jong  Pen  and  his  officers  a  severe 
harangue.  The  result  of  the  interview  was  that  the  col- 
lection of  the  Land  Revenue  should  be  put  a  stop  to,  and 
that  Tibetan  law  should  no  more  be  administered  on  our 
side  of  the  frontier. 

Mr.  Larkin's  visit  to  Bhot  was  cut  short  by  urgent 
orders  to  return  immediately  to  Almora. 

The  following  year  (the  year  of  my  visit,  1897),  Mr.  G., 
Deputy  Commissioner,  undid  much  that  the  previous  of- 
ficer had  accomplished.  The  Jong  Pen,  when  summoned; 
declined  to  come,  and  sent  over  deputies  in  his  place. 
The  upshot  of  it  is  that  Land  Revenue  is  again  paid  by 
the  Shokas  to  the  Tibetan  tax  -  collectors  through  the 
Peshkar. 

I  have  mentioned  these  facts  as  representative  of  many, 
and  to  show  how  it  came  that  the  natives,  who  had  never 

76 


SHOKAS    UNPROTECTED 

had  any  protection  from  our  Government,  were  disinclined, 
notwithstanding  the  temptations  I  offered  them,  to  brave 
the  dangers  of  Tibet.  I,  who  later  on  suffered  so  much 
through  being  betrayed  by  Shokas,  am  the  first  to  forgive 
and  not  to  blame  them.  Though  nominally  our  subjects, 
their  actual  rulers  are  the  Tibetans,  and  \ve  do  nothing  to 
protect  them  against  the  exactions  and  tortures  of  the  in- 
truders. Why,  then,  should  we  expect  them  to  be  faithful 
to  us  ?  The  Shokas  are  not  treacherous  by  nature,  but 
they  are  compelled  to  be  deceitful  to  protect  their  lives 
and  their  homes.  Properly  treated,  these  honest,  gentle, 
good-natured  mountaineers  would  assuredly  become  loyal 
and  trustworthy  subjects  of  her  Majesty. 


CHAPTER   XII 


TIBETAN   THREATS— MY    BIRTHDAY— RAVENOUS    DOGS — A    BIG   DINNER — 
SHOKA   HOSPITALITY 

THE  Jong  Pen  of  Taklakot,  on  hearing  of  my  proposed 
visit,  sent  threats  that  he  would  confiscate  the  land  of  any 

man  who  came  in  my 
employ,  besides  men- 
aces of  "  flogging  " 
and  subsequent "  be- 
heading "  of  myself 
and  any  one  caught 
with  me.  Personal- 
ly I  paid  little  atten- 
tion to  these  intimi- 
dations. 

Consulting  the  cal- 
endar one  day  —  a 
thing  I  did  with  great 

THE  HOUSE  WHERE  I  STAYED  AT  GARBYANG          regularity      in       tllCSC 

regions — I  made  out 

that  it  was  the  ist  of  June,  and  I  then  remembered  that 
the  following  day  would  be  my  birthday.  Feasts  were 
scarce  in  these  high  altitudes,  and  the  prospect  before  me 
was  that  they  would  in  the  near  future  be  even  scarcer. 
It  therefore  occurred  to  me  that  I  could  not  better  while 
away  a  day  at  least  of  this  weary  waiting  than  by  treating 
myself  to  a  real  big  feast. 

Chanden    Sing   was   despatched    round  the  village  to 

78 


A    BIRTHDAY    FEAST 

summon  up  to  my  tent  all  the  local  Bunyas  (tradespeople). 
Rice,  flour,  eight  pounds  of  butter  (ghi),  a  large  quantity 
of  lump  sugar,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  fat  sheep  were  purchased. 
The  latter  was  forthwith  beheaded,  skinned,  and  dressed 
in  the  approved  fashion  by  the  faithful  Chanden  Sing,  who 
was  indeed  a  Jack-of-all -trades. 

Unfortunately  I   am  a  careless  house,  or  rather  tent, 


SHOKA   HOUSE  WITH   STRANGE   LADDER 

keeper,  and  I  intrusted  my  chaprassis  with  the  job  of 
stowing  away  the  provisions,  for  which  purpose  a  recess 
under  the  native  low  bedstead  served  to  perfection,  hold- 
ing as  it  did  the  different -sized  vessels,  with  the  bachri 
(sheep)  in  pieces,  and  the  rice,  flour,  butter,  etc. 

While  this  was  being  done  I  worked  away  hard  at  writ- 
ing, and,  getting  interested,  continued  at  it  till  an  early 
hour  of  the  morning ;  I  got  tired  at  last,  and,  wrapping 

79 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

myself  up  in  my  blanket,  I  soon  went  to  sleep  next  to  a 
heap  of  stones  piled  up  by  the  cautious  Chanden  Sing. 

44  Sahib,"  had  been  his  warning,  "  there  are  many  hungry 
dogs  about  If  they  come,  here  are  a  few  missiles  ready 
for  them,"  and  he  pointed  at  the  ammunition. 

"All  right;  good-night." 

The  wisdom  of  this  was  soon  apparent,  for  I  had  not 
slept  long  when  I  was  aroused  by  the  hollow  sound  of 
lip-smacking,  apparently  arising  from  more  than  one 
mouth,  accompanied  by  the  movement  of  the  stretched 
canvas  bed  on  which  I  was  lying.  Jumping  to  my  feet, 
I  alighted  upon  a  living  mass  of  unwelcome  guests;  but 
before  I  even  realized  what  had  been  going  on,  they  had 
scampered  away, the  brutes!  carrying  between  their  tight- 
ly closed  jaws  a  last  mouthful  of  my  dainties. 

The  ammunition  at  my  disposal  \vas  quickly  used  up — 
a  poor  revenge,  even  when  I  heard  the  yell  of  a  dog  I  hap- 
pened to  hit  in  the  dark.  On  striking  a  match,  I  found 
the  large  brass  bowls  emptied,  the  rice  and  flour  scattered 
all  over  the  tent,  and  the  sheep  practically  vanished. 

I  determined  not  to  be  done  out  of  this  piece  of  in- 
dulgence, which  now  seemed  desirable  beyond  words,  al- 
though I  crawled  back  into  my  blanket,  and  found  for 
a  while  oblivion  in  sleep.  I  was  no  sooner  up  in  the 
morning  than  I  planned  a  new  banquet.  But  in  the  nick 
of  time,  Mr.  G.,  who  had  gone  a  march  farther,  returned 
with  his  escort  of  policemen,  moons/iees,  pundits,  and  chap- 
rassis. 

"  Never  mind,  Landor,"  said  he,  kindly,  when  I  had 
told  him  of  my  trouble,  "  you  come  and  dine  with  me. 
These  chaps  shall  get  you  up  a  special  dinner  in  their 
own  way." 

My  stores  were  put  under  tribute,  instead  of  the  native 
Bunyas,  and  we  had  a  very  excellent  meal  indeed.  We 

80 


A    BIG    DINNER 

had  Bovril  soup  and  Irish  stew,  roast  mutton,  potted 
tongue,  roast  chicken,  gigantic  swan  eggs  poached  on 
anchovy  toast,  jam  omelette,  chow-chow  preserves,  ginger 
biscuits,  boiled  rhubarb,  and  what  not  else — remembered 
by  me  with  desperate  longing  in  the  near  future,  when 
anv  of  these  dainties  would  have  been  like  manna  from 


SHOKA  HOUSES 


heaven.  I  must  not  forget,  by -the -way,  an  excellent 
plum-cake  of  no  small  dimensions,  crammed  full  of  rais- 
ins and  candy,  which  I  had  brought  from  Mrs.  G.  at 
Almora  to  her  husband,  and  to  which  we,  with  blessings 
for  her,  did  the  fullest  justice. 

Thanks  to  Mr.  ,G.,  and  also  to  the  fortunate  coinci- 
dence of  receiving  a  batch  of  letters  from  parents  and 
friends,  which  reached  me  on  that  day  by  runner  from 
Khela,  I  do  not  think  that  I  could  have  spent  a  happier 

81 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

birthday  anywhere,  and  I  knew  well  enough  that  these 
were  to  be  the  last  moments  of  contentment — an  end  to 
the  flesh-pots  of  Egypt.  After  this  I  should  be  cut  off 
from  civilization,  from  comfort  even  in  its  primitive  form; 
and,  to  emphasize  this  fact,  it  happened  that  on  the  very 
morning  following  my  birthday  Mr.  G.  left  and  continued 
his  journey  to  Almora. 

The  weather  was  cold  and  rain  fell  in  torrents,  the 
thermometer  never  being  above  52°  during  the  warmest 
hours  of  the  day.  My  soaked  tent  stood  in  a  regular  pool 
of  water,  notwithstanding  the  double  trenches  round  it, 
and  several  Shoka  gentlemen  had  before  asked  me  to 
abandon  it  and  live  in  a  house.  They  were  all  most  anx- 
ious to  extend  to  me  hospitality,  which  I,  not  wishing  to 
trouble  them,  and  in  order  at  all  hazards  to  be  entire- 
ly free  and  unhampered  in  my  actions,  courteously  but 
firmly  declined.  Nevertheless,  quite  a  deputation  ar- 
rived on  June  4th,  renewing  their  request ;  but  I  was  deter- 
mined to  have  my  way.  In  vain !  They  would  not  see  a 
sahib  under  cold  canvas  while  they  themselves  had  com- 
fortable homes.  They  held  a  consultation.  Unexpect- 
edly, and  notwithstanding  my  remonstrances,  my  loads 
were  suddenly  seized  and  carried  triumphantly  on  the 
backs  of  a  long  row  of  powerful  Shokas  towards  the  vil- 
lage. I  had  to  follow  nolens  volens,  and  from  that  day  on 
I  grew  through  constant  contact  daily  more  convinced  of 
the  genuine  friendliness  and  kind-heartedness  of  these 
people. 

To  prevent  my  coming  back,  they  even  pulled  down 
the  tent,  and,  wet  as  it  was,  carried  it  away.  Zeheram 
and  Jaimal,  two  leading  Shokas,  held  my  hands  and  pat- 
ted me  on  the  back  as  they  led  me  with  every  sign  of 
courtesy  to  my  new  dwelling. 

This  turned  out  to  be  a  fine  two-storied  building  with 

82 


SHOKA    HOSPITALITY 

nicely  carved  wooden  door  and  windows  colored  red  and 
green.  So  great  was  the  anxiety  and  fear  of  these  good 
people  that  I  should  turn  back  at  this  juncture,  that  some 
twenty  outstretched  hands  seized  me  by  the  arms,  while 
others  pushed  me  from  behind  up  a  flight  of  ten  or 
twelve  steps  into  the  house,  where  I  found  myself  the 
guest  of  my  good  friend  Zeheram.  I  was  given  the  front 
of  the  first  floor,  consisting  of  two  large  clean  rooms, 
with  a  very  fair  native  bedstead,  a  table,  and  two  or  more 
moras  (round  cane  stools  covered  with  skin) ;  and  I  had 
no  sooner  realized  that  I  must  stay  than  presents  of 
sweets,  preserved  fruit,  dried  dates,  and  tea  were  brought 
for  my  acceptance — tea  made  in  the  Tibetan  fashion  with 
butter  and  salt  in  it. 

Even  if  at  first  I  had  had  slight  apprehensions  at  the 
expression  of  such  very  unusual  hospitality,  these  were 
soon  dispelled,  and  I  was  proud  to  be  assured  by  my  host 
that  I  was  the  first  Englishman  (or,  for  that,  European  or 
American)  who  had  been  allowed  to  enter  the  living  part 
of  a  Shoka  house  and  partake  of  food  in  a  Shoka  dwell- 
ing. The  opportunity  was  too  good  to  be  lost,  and  I  was 
sorely  tempted  to  tarry  among  them,  so  as  really  to  get 
an  insight  into  their  mode  of  living,  their  customs  and 
manners. 

83 


CHAPTER  XIII 

SHOKA   HOSPITALITY — HOW  I  OBTAINED  MUCH   INFORMATION — ON  A  RE- 
CONNOITRING   TRIP — A   TERRIBLE    SLIDE 

THEY  are,  indeed,  Nature's  gentlemen,  these  worthy 
Shokas,  and  as  such  they  did  all  in  their  power  to  make 
my  stay  among  them  pleasant.  It  was  a  contest  be- 
tween them  as  to  who  should  entertain  me  first,  and  who 
should  be  the  next.  Invitations  to  breakfast  and  dinner 
literally  poured  in ;  and  those  convenient  "  sick  head- 
aches," "  colds,"  and  "  previous  engagements,"  so  opportune 
in  more  conventional  parts,  were  of  no  avail  here.  No 
card,  no  friendly  note  bade  one  to  come  and  be  merry. 
They  generally  arrived  en  masse  to  fetch  me.  Pulling 
and  pushing  played  a  not  unimportant  part  in  their  urg- 
ing, and  to  decline  was  thus  out  of  the  question.  Indeed, 
I  must  confess  there  was  but  little  inclination  to  decline 
on  my  part.  When  you  arrived,  your  host  spread  out 
fine  mats  and  rugs,  of  Tibetan  and  ancient  Chinese  man- 
ufacture, and  often  of  great  value.  In  front  of  a  raised 
seat  were  displayed  in  shiny  brass  bowls  the  various 
viands  and  delicacies  which  constituted  the  meal.  There 
was  rice  always ;  there  were  curried  mutton,  milk,  and 
curd  with  sugar;  then  chapatis,  made  in  Hindustani  fash- 
ion ;  and  Shale,  a  kind  of  sweet  pancake  made  of  flour, 
ghi  (butter),  sugar  or  honey ;  also  Parsad,  a  thick  paste 
of  honey,  burned  sugar,  butter,  and  flour,  all  well  cooked 
together — a  dainty  morsel  even  for  a  jaded  palate. 

I  was  invariably  made  to  sit  on  the  raised  seat,  which  I 

84 


CORDIAL    REPASTS 

did  cross-legged,  while  the  crowd  squatted  respectfully 
en  the  floor  round  the  room,  forming  a  semicircle  with 
me  in  the  centre.  I  generally  ate  with  my  fingers  in 
their  own  manner,  a  courtesy  they  particularly  appreciated; 
and  although  I  must  have  seemed  awkward  to  them  at 
first,  I  soon  acquired  a  sort  of  dexterity  in  manipulating 
hot  food  —  meat  and  vegetables,  for  instance  —  with  my 


SHOKA   CHILD    BEING   SMEARED   WITH    BUTTER 

hand.  The  trick  is  not  very  difficult,  but  it  requires 
practice.  You  gather  up  your  five  fingers  downward  in 
the  dish,  seizing  a  mouthful,  and  with  a  rapid  circular 
twist  of  the  hand  you  collect  as  much  sauce  as  you  can 
round  the  morsel  you  have  caught.  With  a  still  more 
rapid  movement,  and  before  anything  has  time  to  drip 
between  your  fingers,  you  half  drop  and  half  throw  it 
into  your  mouth. 

I  soon  found  that  I  could,  during  these  cordial  repasts,, 
enlivened  as  they  were  by  moderate  libations  of  chokti  and 
syrap  (wine  and  spirit  distilled  from  wheat),  acquire  con- 
siderable knowledge  of  anthropological  and  ethnological 

85 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 


interest,  and  gather  also  much  valuable  information  about 
Tibet  and  its  people.  They  became,  in  fact,  in  the  few 
-days  I  spent  among  them,  confiding  to  such  a  degree, 
and  looked  upon  me  so  much  as  one  of  themselves,  that 
I  soon  obtained  the  run  of  the  whole  place.  They  came 
to  confide  their  grievances  and  troubles ;  they  related  to 

me  their  legends  and 
folk-lore.  They  sang  to 
me  their  weird  songs 
and  taught  me  their 
dances.  They  brought 
me  to  their  marriages 
and  strange  funerals ; 
they  took  me  to  their 
sick  men,  women,  and 
children,  or  conveyed 
them  to  me  for  cure. 
Thus,  to  my  delight, 
and  with  such  unique 
chances,  my  observa- 
tions of  a  pathological, 
physiological,  and  an- 
atomical character  be- 


THE   MASTER   OF   A   HIGH-SCHOOL, 
ALTITUDE    10,940   FEET 


came   more   interesting 


to  me  day  by  day,  and  I 
have  attempted  to  de- 
scribe in  a  later  chapter  some  of  the  things  I  was  able 
to  note. 

After  lingering  in  Garbyang  for  several  days,  I  paid  off 
my  two  chaprassis,  Matan  Sing  and  Narenghiri,  and  they 
returned  to  Almora. 

On  June  6th  I  started  on  a  journey  towards  the  fron- 
tier, with  a  view  to  reconnoitre. 

Crossing  into  Nepal  territory  below  Chongur  village, 

86 


VILLAGE   OF   GUNGI 


and  following  upward  the  right  bank  of  the  Kali  River 
in  a  direction  of  320°  (bearings  magnetic),  I  reached  Kanwa, 
a  Shoka  village  on  a  high,  cliff-like  plateau  under  which 
meet  the  three  rivers  Kali,  Taki,  and  Kuti.  The  Kali 
turns  suddenly  to  37°  (bearings  magnetic),  while  the  Kuti 
River  keeps  a  general 
direction  of  325"  (bear- 
ings magnetic). 

Having  crossed  again 
into  Kumaon,  I  struck 
camp  at  Gungi.  Before 
entering  the  village,  I 
passed  Dr.  Wilson's  dis- 
pensary, not  then  com- 
pleted. In  the  village 
the  houses  were  deco- 
rated with  long  poles 
joined  by  strings,  from 
which  hung  and  flew 
gayly  in  the  breeze  hun- 
dreds of  wind  prayers. 
The  dwellings  were 
mostly  of  the  ancient, 
pure  Shoka  architect- 
ure, and  not  so  fine  or 
so  clean  as  those  in 

Garbyang.  The  place  was  picturesque,  clear-cut  against 
the  curious  background  of  the  dome -like  mountain,  the 
Nabi  Shankom,  a  peak  of  uncommon  beauty,  with  its  gray 
and  reddish  striped  strata.  Near  it  on  another  mountain 
is  the  Gungi  Shankom,  a  gigantic  quadrangular  rock  of  a 
warm  yellow  and  reddish  color,  not  unlike  a  huge  tower. 
When  I  reached  its  foot,  the  sun  was  casting  his  last  dying 
rays  on  it,  and  the  picture  was  so  magical  that  I  was  tempt- 

l.-G  87 


GUNGI    SHANKOM 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

ed  to  sketch  it.  As  I  sat  there,  the  shadow  of  the  coming 
night  rose  higher  and  higher  on  the  mountain-side,  tinting 
it  violet  blue,  and  above  it  the  Gungi  Shankom  stood  re- 
splendent in  all  its  glory  like  a  tower  of  fire  —  till  night 
descended,  covering  the  mountain  first,  and  little  by  little 
the  Gungi  Shankom  itself.  I  shall  not  easily  forget  this 
sight. 

I  slept  under  my  little  tente  d'abri,  and  found  it  de- 
lightfully cosey  and  warm. 

At  10  A.M.  the  next  day  I  raised  camp.  The  elevation 
here  was  10,940  feet.  Interesting  was  the  Chiram,  a  col- 
lection of  tombs,  five  in  number,  made  of  slabs  of  white 
stone  with  poles  placed  vertically  upon  them,  and  from 
the  summit  of  which  hung  flying  prayers.  The  Kuti 
River  to  my  left  was  wide  and  rapid.  On  the  opposite 
bank  the  village  of  Ronkan  (11,100  feet)  made  a  pretty 
vis-a-vis  to  the  Nabi  village  on  our  side  of  the  stream, 
at  the  same  elevation,  and  directly  under  the  lee  of  the 
Nabi  Shankom. 

As  I  rose  gradually  along  the  river  course  the  vegeta- 
tion grew  sparse,  and  in  front  of  me  there  remained  noth- 
ing but  barren  rocks  and  high  snowy  peaks.  The  spot 
where,  from  opposite  sides,  the  Gunkan  River  and  the 
Nail  River  throw  themselves  into  the  Kuti  River  is  most 
picturesque.  There  are  on  the  water's  edge  a  few  pine- 
trees,  but  above  there  is  nothing  but  wilderness — rock  and 
ice  and  snow. 

I  soon  came  upon  much  snow,  and  places  where  the 
track  along  the  mountain-side  was  undiscoverable.  Walk- 
ing was  tiresome  enough  on  the  loose  shingle  and  shale, 
but  it  became  worse  when  I  actually  had  to  cut  each  step 
into  the  frozen  snow.  The  work  was  tedious  to  a  degree, 
and  the  progress  slow.  After  a  while  I  noticed  a  series 
of  lofty  snow  tunnels  over  the  raging  stream,  which  is 

88 


AN    EXTENSIVE    SNOW-FIELD 

earlier  in  the  season  covered  entirely  by  a  vault  of  ice  and 
snow.  The  higher  I  got  the  harder  and  more  slippery 
grew  the  snow.  The  soles  of  my  shoes  having  become 
soaked  and  frozen,  made  walking  very  difficult.  At 
12,000  feet,  being  about  three  hundred  feet  above  the 
stream,  I  had  to  cross  a  particularly  extensive  snow-field, 


ZAZZELA    MOUNT,  NEAR    GUNGI 


hard  frozen  and  rising  at  a  very  steep  angle.  Some  of 
my  coolies  had  gone  ahead,  the  others  were  behind.  Not- 
withstanding the  track  cut  by  those  ahead,  it  was  neces- 
sary to  recut  each  step  with  one's  own  feet,  so  as  to  pre- 
vent slipping.  This  was  best  done  by  hammering  several 
times  into  the  white  sheet  with  the  point  of  one's  shoe 
until  a  cavity  was  made  deep  enough  to  contain  the  foot 
and  to  support  one  upright.  It  ought  to  be  done  care- 
fully each  time,  but  I  fear  I  had  not  the  patience  for  that. 
I  thought  I  had  found  a  quicker  method,  and,  by  raising 
my  knee  high,  I  struck  the  snow  with  my  heel,  leaving 

89 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

my  foot  planted   until  the  other  one  had  by  the  same 
process  cut  the  next  step. 

It  was  in  giving  one  of  these  vigorous  thumps  that  I 
hit  a  spot  where,  under  a  thin  coating  of  snow,  was  hard  ice. 
My  foot,  failing  in  its  grip,  slipped,  and  the  impulse  caused 
me  to  lose  my  balance.  I  slid  down  the  steep  incline 
at  a  terrific  pace,  accompanied  in  my  involuntary  tobog- 
ganing over  ice  and  snow  by  the  screams  of  my  horror- 


CHIRAM 


stricken  coolies.  I  realized  that  in  another  moment  I 
should  be  pitched  into  the  stream,  which  would  have 
meant  being  carried  under  the  long  tunnel  of  ice  to  meet 
certain  death  beneath  it.  In  those  few  seconds  I  found 
time  to  speculate  even  as  to  whether  those  stones  by  the 
water's  edge  would  stop  me,  or  whether  the  impetus  must 
fling  me  past  them  into  the  river.  I  attempted  to  get  a 
grip  in  the  snow  with  my  frozen  ringers,  to  stem  myself 
with  my  heels,  but  with  no  success,  when  I  saw  ahead  of 
me  a  large  stone  rising  above  the  snow.  With  desperate 

90 


* 


INVOLUNTARY   TOBOGGANING 


tension  of  every  nerve  and  muscle,  I  knew  as  I  approached 
it,  with  the  foaming  water  yonder,  that  it  was  my  only 
hope.  I  consciously  straightened  my  legs  for  the  contact. 
The  bump  was  tremendous,  and  seemed  to  shatter  every 
bone  in  my  body.  But  it  stopped  me,  and  I  was  saved 
only  a  few  feet  from  the  water's  edge  —  miraculously,  al- 
though fearfully  bruised,  with  no  bones  broken. 

My  fingers  were  cut  by  the  ice  and  bleeding ;  my  clothes 
were  torn.  When  I  was  able  to  stand,  I  signalled  to  the 
frightened  and  wailing  coolies  above  to  go  on,  and  I  my- 
self proceeded  along  the  watercourse  until  I  found  a  spot 
from  which  I  could  regain  the  upper  track. 


SHCKA  CHILD  SMEARED  WITH  BUTTER.  AND  LEFT 
TO  ABSORB  BUTTER  IN  THE  SUN 


CHAPTER  XIV 

A  PALAVER— TO  SEE  IS  TO  BELIEVE— DANGERS  AND  PERILS  ON  THE 
SNOW  AND  ICE— THAR  AND  GHURAL — STALKING — A  TIRING  CLIMB  TO 
l6,000  FEET — THE  COLLAPSE  OF  A  SNOW  BRIDGE 

AT  Kuti  I  halted  and  summoned  the  leading  natives  to 
my  tent.  Would  it  be  possible,  I  asked  them,  to  get  over 
the  Lumpiya  Pass  or  the  still  higher  Mangshan  ?  The  first 
is  a  rarely  frequented  pass  on  the  way  to  Gyanema,  the 
other  a  high  and  most  difficult  pass  by  which  it  is  possi- 
ble, though  not  easy,  to  reach  the  Rakstal  Lake  by  the 
jungle  without  going  near  a  Tibetan  settlement  or  en- 
campment. 

"  No,"  was  the  decided  answer  from  all  the  Shokas. 
"  The  snow  is  now  too  deep.  Fresh  snow  falls  daily.  For 
another  fortnight  at  least  no  human  being  can  get  across. 
To  attempt  it  will  mean  losing  one's  life.  At  their  best, 
during  one  month  in  summer,  those  two  passes  are  ardu- 
ous and  dangerous.  Now  it  would  be  mere  folly  to  at- 
tempt their  ascent." 

With  my  distressingly  sceptical  nature  I  believe  little 
that  I  do  not  see.  I  started  next  morning  to  observe  for 
myself.  My  bearings  were  roughly  northwest.  Seeing 
me  determined,  several  of  the  Kutial  Shokas  changed 
their  mind  and  volunteered  to  follow  me.  They  were  of 
considerable  help  in  many  dangerous  places.  Here  and 
there  a  few  paces  of  narrow  track  were  uncovered,  other- 
wise we  went  long  distances  on  frozen  snow,  over  preci- 
pices down  which  it  was  almost  fatal  to  look. 


DIFFICULT    TRAVELLING 

The  lucky  hair-breadth  escape  of  the  previous  day  con- 
tributed to  make  me  lose  confidence,  not  in  myself,  but  in 
that  white  emblem  of  purity  and  innocence,  in  reality  the 
most  treacherous  substance  in  creation.  I  soon  found 
that  wherever  there  was  snow  there  was  trouble.  In 
spots  where  the  snow  was  particularly  hard  frozen  we 


KUTI 


dared  not  attempt  to  walk  on  the  steep,  slippery  surface, 
and  we  had  to  descend  to  the  river,  which  was  here 
bridged  over  completely  with  ice  and  snow.  Crossing,  we 
would  attempt  progress  on  the  other  side,  and,  having  pro- 
ceeded with  difficulty  for  a  few  hundred  yards,  would  have 
to  retrace  our  steps  and  try  the  first  bank  again.  We  thus 
crossed  and  recrossed  the  Kuti  River  more  than  half  a 
dozen  times,  each  crossing  being  preceded  by  a  precipitous 
descent  and  immediately  followed  by  a  steep  ascent.  The 

93 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

cracks  in  the  ice  by  the  water-side  were  constant  and 
perilous,  and  we  did  not  risk  remaining  near  them  longer 
than  was  necessary.  In  six  or  seven  hours  we  had  walked 
a  distance  of  less  than  four  miles.  Leaving  the  Kuti 
River  and  following  due  north  the  course  of  a  tributary, 
the  Kambelshio,  we  crossed  over  to  its  farther  bank  and 
pitched  our  tents  at  an  altitude  of  13,420  feet. 

There  remained  a  few  hours  of  daylight  when  we  ar- 
rived, and  I  employed  them  by  going  after  Thar,  or  Tehr, 
and  Ghural*  (Himahlyan  chamois)  a  couple  of  miles 
farther.  I  rose  to  15,000  feet  on  a  needle-like  peak  tower- 
ing over  the  spot  where,  in  a  narrow,  picturesque  gorge, 
the  Tongzu  pangti  enters  the  Kuti  River.  The  sources  of 
the  Tongzu  pangti  are  about  a  thousand  feet  higher  than 
the  spot  where  it  meets  the  Kuti  River,  and  the  stream 
has  its  birth  from  the  melting  snows,  descending  precip- 
itously and  at  a  very  short  distance  into  the  larger  river. 

The  rocks  are  here  furred  with  saltpetre,  and  it  is  said 
to  be  a  favorite  spot  for  Thar. 

I  enjoyed  my  trip  so  much  that,  rising  with  the  sun, 
I  started  on  the  following  morning  to  repeat  my  experi- 
ence. Moreover,  I  wanted  to  climb  to  some  high  point 
wherefrom  I  could  make  certain  whether  it  was  possible 
to  proceed  immediately  across  the  Himahlyan  range,  or 
whether  it  was  advisable  to  wait  patiently  until  the  snow 

*  The  GJntral  is  the  Himahlyan  chamois,  found  at  even  comparatively 
low  elevations.  They  are  generally  seen  in  herds,  with  the  exception  of 
the  oldest  males,  which  are  usually  met  with  alone.  It  is  not  uncommon 
to  see  as  many  as  eight  or  ten  together,  especially  during  their  feeding 
time,  shortly  after  sunrise  and  an  hour  or  two  before  sunset. 

Thar,  or  Tehr  (male),  and  Jahral  (female),  is  the  true  and  proper  wild 
goat  of  the  higher  Himahlyan  range.  It  is  rarely  found  lower  than  7000 
feet,  and  often  as  high  as  15,000  feet  above  sea-level.  -Those  found  at 
lower  elevations  do  not  possess  quite  such  a  luxuriant  growth  of  hair,  nor, 
I  am  told,  are  their  curved  horns  quite  so  long.  They  climb  about  preci- 
pices and  dangerous  spots  with  the  greatest  ease. 

94 


A    MAGNIFICENT    VIEW 

had  to  some  extent  disappeared.  I  walked  four  miles 
from  camp,  reaching  an  altitude  of  16,000  feet.  The  as- 
cent was  rather  tiring.  Having  wounded  a  Thar,  I  went 
after  it  up  a  fatiguing  snow-field  at  a  speed  too  great  to 
be  comfortable  at  such  a  very  high  elevation.  When  I 


OLD   SHOKA   WOMAN   SMOKING 


reached  the  top,  I  was  out  of  breath  and  the  Thar  too  far 
off  for  a  second  shot. 

The  view  this  high  point  commanded  was  stupendous. 
For  miles  and  miles — and  it  seemed  hundreds  of  miles — 
snow,  snow,  nothing  but  snow!  There  stood  Jolinkan 
Mount  rising  above  19,000  feet.  On  either  side  of  the 
Kuti  River  were  peaks  as  high  as  20,000  feet  and  more. 
Here  and  there  the  white  sheet  that  covered  the  sur- 
rounding country  seemed  almost  greenish.  Those  spots 
were  glaciers,  and  I  saw  many  of  them,  feeding  as  they 

95 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

do  the  numerous  streams  flowing  into  the  Kuti  River.  I 
returned  to  camp  for  lunch.  It  was  useless  to  proceed 
and  even  more  useless  remaining  still.  I  gave  orders  to 
raise  the  camp,  and  at  2  P.M.  we  were  under  way  back  to 
Kuti. 

The  day  had  been  an  unusually  warm  one,  and  the 
surface  of  the  snow,  so  hard  the  previous  day,  was  now 
soft  and  watery.  Several  of  the  snow  bridges  had  al- 
ready disappeared. 

I  had  descended  to  the  river  preceded  by  some  of  my 
coolies.  Two  of  them  just  in  front  of  me  were  crossing 
over  the  stream  on  a  thick  and  broad  archway  of  ice.  I 
was  waiting  for  them  to  be  safely  across.  When  the 
men  had  nearly  reached  the  other  side  they  noticed  a 
peculiar  vibration  underfoot.  Scrambling  away  as  best 
they  could,  they  gave  the  alarm. 

I  drew  back  hastily.  In  the  nick  of  time !  for  with  a 
deafening  roar  like  magnified  thunder,  echoed  from  cliff 
to  cliff,  down  went  the  bridge.  The  huge  pieces  of  ice, 
only  a  moment  before  forming  part  of  the  vault,  were 
now  swept  away  by  the  furious  stream  and  thrown  with 
tremendous  force  against  the  next  bridge,  which  quivered 
under  the  terrible  clash. 

Three  days'  marching  over  the  same  route  brought  me 
back  to  Garbyang, 


CHANDEN    SING   AND   THE   DAKU 

ROLLING   UP   MY   BEDDING 

96 


CHAPTER   XV 

AN  EARTHQUAKE  — CURIOUS  NOTIONS  OF  THE  NATIVES  —  A  SHOKA. 
TAILOR  AND  HIS  WAYS — THE  ARRIVAL  OF  SILVER  CASH— TWO  ROCKS 
IN  THE  KALI — ARROGANCE  OF  A  TIBETAN  SPY 

ON  hearing  that  Dr.  Wilson  was  now  in  Garbyang  I 
went  to  call  upon  him.  Squatted  on  soft  Chinese  and 
Tibetan  mats  and  rugs,  we  were  enjoying  cup  after  cup 
of  tea  and  devouring  chapatis,  when  suddenly  the  whole 
building  began  to  shake  and  rumble  in  the  queerest 
manner,  upsetting  teapot  and  milk,  and  sending  the  cha- 
patis  roaming  to  and  fro  all  over  the  room. 

Leaving  Dr.  Wilson  to  save  our  precious  beverage,  I 
pulled  out  watch  and  compass  to  notice  duration  and  di- 
rection of  the  shock.  It  was  undulatory,  very  violent,, 
and  oscillating  from  south-southwest  to  north-northeast. 
The  duration  was  exactly  four  minutes  two  seconds.  The 
earthquake  began  at  5.20  P.M.  and  ended  at  5h.  24m.  25. 

"  It  strikes  me  that  it  would  have  been  wise  to  have 
gone  out  of  the  house,"  said  I.  "  It  is  a  wonder  the 
building  did  not  collapse.  My  cup  is  full  of  mud  and 
debris  from  the  ceiling."  : 

"  I  have  saved  the  tea  for  you !"  said  the  doctor,  trium- 
phantly, lifting  in  his  muscular  hands  the  teapot,  which 
he  had  carefully  nursed.  He  had  soon  discovered  my 
devotion  to  the  yellow  liquid. 

We  were  quietly  going  on  with  our  refreshment  when 
a  band  of  excited  Shokas  broke  into  the  room. 

*  The  ceilings  of  Shoka  houses  are  plastered  with  mud. 
97 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

"  Sahib !  sahib !  where  has  it  gone  ?"  cried  they  in  a 
chorus,  stretching  their  hands  towards  me  and  then  fold- 
ing them  in  sign  of  prayer.  "  Sahib  !  tell  us  where  it  has 
gone !" 

"  What  ?"  rejoined  I,  amused  at  their  suspense. 

"Did  you  not  feel  the  earth  shake  and  quiver?"  ex- 
claimed the  astounded  visitors. 

"  Oh  yes,  but  that  is  nothing." 


A   WELL-ATTENDED   SCHOOL 


"  Oh  no,  sahib !  That  is  the  precursory  notice  of 
some  great  calamity.  The  '  spirit '  under  the  earth  is 
waking  up  and  is  shaking  its  back." 

"  I  would  rather  it  shook  its  back  than  mine,"  said  I, 
jokingly. 

"  Or  mine,"  added  the  doctor,  lightly,  much  to  the  as- 
tonishment of  our  awe-stricken  callers. 

"Which  way  did  it  go?"  repeated  the  impatient 
Shokas. 

I  pointed  towards  the  north-northeast,  and  they  gave  a 
sigh  of  satisfaction.  It  must  have  proceeded  to  the  other 
side  of  the  Himahlyas. 

98 


THE  EARTH-DEMON  OF  THE  SHOKAS 

It  appears,  according  to  the  primitive  notions  of  the 
Shokas,  that  inside  the  earth  lives  in  a  torpid  condition 
an  evil  spirit  in  the  shape  of  a  gigantic  reptile.  The 
rumbling  preceding  an  earthquake  is,  to  the  Shoka 
mind,  nothing  else  than  the  heavy  breathing  of  the  mon- 
ster previous  to  waking,  whereas  the  actual  shock  is 
caused  by  the  brute  stretching  its  limbs.  When  fully 
awake  the  serpent-like  demon  darts  and  forces  its  way  in 
one  direction,  compelling  the  earth  to  quake  all  along  its 
subterranean  passage,  often  causing  by  so  violent  a  pro- 
cedure great  damage  to  property  and  loss  of  life,  not  to 
speak  of  the  fear  and  terror  which  it  strikes  in  man  and 
beast  should  the  capricious  spirit  by  chance  make  a  re- 
turn journey  to  the  spot  below  the  earth's  crust  directly 
underfoot.  It  is  curious  and  interesting,  in  analyzing 
these  crude  notions,  to  find  that,  independently  of  the 
cause  attributed  to  its  origin,  the  Shokas  are  aware  of 
the  fact  that  an  earthquake  "  travels "  in  a  certain  di- 
rection. Moreover,  common  symptoms  of  the  approach 
of  a  violent  earthquake,  such  as  depression  and  heaviness 
in  the  atmosphere,  which  they  attribute  to  a  feverish 
state  of  the  giant  reptile,  are  readily  recognized  by  them. 

On  my  return  to  civilization  some  months  later  I  dis- 
covered that  on  the  same  day  a  violent  shock  was  felt  all 
over  India,  causing  considerable  damage,  especially  in 
Calcutta. 

I  had  on  first  arriving  in  Garbyang  ordered  a  tent,  and 
the  tailor  who  was  intrusted  with  its  manufacture  had, 
after  several  days'  intoxication,  completed  it.  It  was  on 
the  Tibetan  pattern,  with  picturesque  ornaments  in  blue. 
He  had  also  been  making  me  some  Nepalese  clothes,  and 
these  really  turned  out  quite  a  success — no  small  wonder, 
considering  the  way  he  went  to  work.  I  had  given  him 
cloth  and  lining,  which  he  took  away  with  him,  but  he 
i.— H  99 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

never  troubled  to  take  my  measure !  He  simply  assured 
me  that  the  suit  would  be  ready  on  the  following  day. 
This  was,  of  course,  not  the  case,  and  on  the  next  after- 
noon and  for  six  consecutive  days  he  placed  himself  in  a 
state  of  hopeless  intoxication  under  my  window,  singing 
and  making  comical  salaams  each  time  I,  after  the  custom 
of  the  country,  threw  something  at  him  to  induce  him  to 
go  away.  On  the  seventh  day  I  caught  him  and  shook 
him  by  the  ears,  explaining  that  if  the  clothes  were  not 
ready  before  nightfall  I  would,  in  default  of  other  tailors, 
sew  them  myself. 

"  I  have  a  drop  too  much  in  me,"  confessed  the  amus- 
ing rascal.  "  I  will  go  to  sleep  now.  When  I  wake  in 
the  afternoon  I  shall  be  sober  and  will  finish  my  work. 
Do  not  be  angry,  sahib.  If  only  you  drank  yourself, 
sahib,  you  would  know  how  lovely  it  is  to  be  drunk." 
His  philosophy  did  not  agree  with  mine.  But  I  felt  sure 
that  I  had  so  far  impressed  him  that  he  knew  he  must 
risk  some  personal  violence  if  he  delayed  much  longer. 
Sure  enough,  late  in  the  evening  he  came  with  his  work. 

"  How  they  will  fit  I  do  not  dare  to  guess,"  I  remarked 
to  Dr.  Wilson,  "  considering  the  condition  the  man  has 
been  in  while  making  them,  and  taking  into  account  that 
he  never  measured  me  nor  tried  them  on.  After  all, 
Nepalese  clothes  should  be  tight-fitting  all  over." 

Wonderful  as  it  may  seem,  the  clothes  fitted  like  a 
glove.  Clearly  that  man  was  a  genius.  Anyhow,  he 
was  intemperate  enough  to  have  been  one. 

One  day  I  had  gone  for  a  walk  along  the  deserted  road 
from  the  village.  I  was  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the 
inhabited  part  when  three  men  who  had  been  fast  ap- 
proaching stood  with  blunt  swords  in  front  of  me.  They 
waved  their  blades  clumsily,  and  shouted  at  the  top  of 

100 


their  voices  in  an  excited  manner,  "Riipiya!  RupiyaT 
(Rupees  !  Rupees  !)  Without  thinking  of  the  money  that 
I  had  sent  for  and  expected  to  receive,  I  took  their  at- 
titude as  a  threatening  demand  for  the  cash  I  might  have 
on  me.  They  were  really  grotesque  in  their  gesticula- 
tions, and  I  brusquely  pushed  by  them  and  continued  my 
constitutional.  When  they 
saw  me  depart  they  scurried 
away  hastily  towards  Garb- 
yang,  and  I  gave  the  occur- 
rence no  further  thought.  On 
my  return  to  the  village,  how- 
ever, some  hours  later,  a 
crowd  of  Shokas  came  up  to 
me  announcing  that  my  mon- 
ey had  arrived,  and  that  the 
scared  messengers,  not  daring 
to  come  near  me  a  second 
time,  had  gone  to  Dr.  Wil- 
son's house.  There  I  found 
a  peon  and  two  ckaprassis, 
the  three  men  I  had  met  on 
the  road.  They  had  brought 
a  sum  of  eighteen  hundred 
rupees  in  silver,  nearly  all  in 
two-anna  and  four-anna  pieces 

(sixteen  annas  to  a  rupee),  which  I  had  sent  for  from 
my  banker,  Anti  Ram  Sah,  at  Almora,  and  which  it  had 
taken  three  men  to  carry,  owing  to  its  weight. 

After  an  easy  explanation  with  these  three  very  peace- 
ful highwaymen,  the  silver  was  conveyed  to  my  room,  and 
the  greater  part  of  the  night  had  to  be  spent  in  counting 
the  diminutive  coins  and  packing  them  up  in  rolls  of  ten 
rupees  each. 

101 


MY    BANKER  AND   AGENT 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Just  below  Garbyang  in  the  Kali  River  were,  among  a 
mass  of  others,  two  large  rocks  in  the  centre  of  the 
stream.  These  two  rocks  were  constantly  watched  by 
the  Shokas.  The  Kali,  though  named  after  a  small 
spring  below  its  real  source,  is,  like  most  of  its  tributa- 
ries, mainly  fed  by  melting  snows.  The  greater  quantity 
of  water  descends  from  the  Jolinkan,  the  Lumpiya,  the 
Mangshan,  the  Lippu,  and  the  Tinker  passes.  The  first 
four  are  in  Kumaon,  the. last  in  Nepal.  It  stands  to  rea- 
son that  the  warmer  the  weather  the  greater  is  the  quan- 
tity of  snow  melting  on  the  passes,  and  therefore  the 
higher  the  level  of  the  river.  When  the  two  rocks  are 
altogether  under  water  all  the  passes  are  known  to  be 
open.* 

During  the  time  I  was  in  Garbyang  I  never  had  the 
luck  to  see  this,  but  the  level  of  the  river  was  daily  rising, 
and  the  time  of  tiresome  expectation  was  certainly  relieved 
by  many  amusing  and  a  few  awkward  incidents. 

Having  once  been  informed  of  my  plans,  the  Jong  Pen 
of  Taklakot,  in  Tibet,  was  kept  fully  acquainted  with  my 
movements.  His  spies  went  daily  backward  and  for- 
ward with  details  about  me.  This  my  friends  confided 
to  me  regularly.  One  of  these  emissaries,  a  stalwart  Tib- 
etan, more  daring  than  the  rest,  actually  had  the  impu- 
dence to  enter  my  room  and  to  address  me  in  a  boister- 
ous tone  of  voice.  At  first  I  treated  him  kindly,  but  he 
became  more  and  more  arrogant,  and  informed  me,  before 
several  frightened  Shokas  to  whom  he  was  showing  off, 
that  the  British  soil  I  was  standing  on  was  Tibetan  prop- 
erty. The  British,  he  said,  were  usurpers  and  only  there 
on  sufferance.  He  declared  that  the  English  were  cow- 


*  N.B. — The  Lippu  Pass,  the  lowest  of  all,  may  be  crossed  with  difficulty 
nearly  all  the  year  round. 

102 


AN    IMPUDENT    TIBETAN 

ards  and  afraid  of  the  Tibetans,  even  if  they  oppressed  the 
Shokas. 

This  remark  was  too  much  for  me,  and  it  might  any- 
how have  been  unwise  to  allow  it  to  pass  unchallenged. 
Throwing  myself  on  him,  I  grabbed  him  by  his  pigtail, 
and  landed  in  his  face  a  number  of  blows  straight  from 


THE   VALLEY   OF   GARBYANG 


the  shoulder.  When  I  let  him  go  he  threw  himself  down 
crying,  and  implored  my  pardon.  Once  and  for  all  to 
disillusion  the  Tibetan  on  one  or  two  points,  I  made  him 
lick  my  shoes  clean  with  his  tongue,  in  the  presence  of 
the  assembled  Shokas.  This  done,  he  tried  to  scamper 
away,  but  I  caught  him  once  more  by  his  pigtail  and 
kicked  him  down  the  front  steps  which  he  had  dared  to 
come  up  unasked. 

103 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Chanden  Sing  happened  to  be  basking  in  the  sun  at 
the  foot,  and,  seeing  the  hated  foreigner  make  so  con- 
temptible an  exit,  leaped  on  him  like  a  cat.  He  had  heard 
me  say,  "  Ye  admi  dura  crab "  (That  man  is  very  bad). 
That  was  enough  for  him,  and  before  the  Tibetan  had  re- 
gained his  feet  my  bearer  covered  his  angular  features 
with  a  perfect  shower  of  blows.  In  the  excitement  of  the 
moment,  Chanden  Sing,  thinking  himself  quite  the  hero, 
began  even  to  shy  huge  stones  at  his  terror-stricken  victim, 
and  at  last,  getting  hold  of  his  pigtail,  to  drag  him  round 
the  yard — until  I  interfered  and  stopped  the  sport. 

104 


CHAPTER  XVI 


THE  RAMBANG — SHOKA  MUSIC  —  LOVE -SONGS  —  DOLEFUL  SINGING — 
ABRUPT  ENDING  —  SOLOS — SMOKING — WHEN  MARRIAGE  IS  CONTEM- 
PLATED— THE  DELANO— ADULTERY— PUNISHMENT 

ONE  Shoka  institution,  surprising  in  a  primitive  peo- 
ple, but  nevertheless,  to  my  way  of  thinking,  eminent- 
ly sensible  and  advantageous,  is 
the  Rambang,  a  meeting-place  or 
club  where  girls  and  young  men 
come  together  at  night  for  the 
sake  of  better  acquaintance  prior 
to  entering  into  matrimony.  Each 
village  possesses  one  or  more  in- 
stitutions of  this  kind,  and  they 
are  indiscriminately  patronized  by 
all  well  -  to  -  do  people,  who  recog- 
nize the  institution  as  a  sound 
basis  on  which  marriage  can  be 
arranged.  The  Rambans:  houses 

o  o 

are  either  in  the  village  itself,  or 
half-way  between  one  village  and 
the    next,  the    young   women    of    MOTEMA  A  SHOKA  BFAUTY 
one    village    thus    entering    into 

amicable  relations  with  the  young  men  of  the  other,  and 
vice  versa.  I  visited  many  of  these  in  company  with 
Shokas,  and  found  them  very  interesting.  Round  a  big 
fire  in  the  centre  of  the  room  men  and  women  sat  in 
couples,  spinning  wool  and  chatting  merrily,  for  every- 

105 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

thing  appeared  decorous  and  cheerful.  With  the  small 
hours  of  the  morning  they  seemed  to  become  more  sen- 
timental, and  began  singing  songs  without  instrumental 
accompaniment,  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  voices  sounding 
weird  and  haunting  to  a  degree.  The  Shoka  men  and 
women  possess  soft,  musical  voices,  and  the  sounds 
which  they  utter  are  not  simply  a  series  of  notes  emitted 


ON  THE   WAY   TO   THE   RAMBANG 


through  the  throat,  but,  as  it  were,  the  vibration  of  im- 
pressions coming  from  the  heart  and  transmitted  by 
means  of  their  voices  to  others.  Eastern  in  its  charac- 
ter, the  Shoka  music  is  pleasing  to  the  Western  ear,  not 
because  it  possesses  quick  progressions,  flourishes,  or  any 
elaborate  technicalities,  but  because  it  conveys  the  im- 
pression of  reality  and  feeling.  The  responsive  duets, 
sung  by  a  young  man  and  answered  by  a  girl,  pleased  me 

106 


SHOKA    MUSIC 


most.  All  their  songs  are  plaintive,  and  contain  modu- 
lations of  the  voice  so  mysteriously  charming  in  effect, 
and  so  good  in  tone,  that  they  really  affect  one  pro- 
foundly. They  only  sing  when  the  mood  takes  them ; 
never  with  a  view  to  please  others,  but  always  simply  to- 
give  vent  to  their  emotions.  Their  love-songs  generally 
open  with  a  sentimental  recitative,  and  then  change  into 
actual  singing,  with  frequent  modulations  from  one  key 
into  another.  The  time  is  irregular,  and  though  certain, 
rhythmical  peculiarities  recur  con- 
stantly, yet  each  performer  gives 
to  what  he  sings  so  strong  a  per- 
sonality of  execution  as  to  make 
it  almost  an  individual  composi- 
tion. Any  one  hearing  Shokas 
sing  for  the  first  time  would  im- 
agine that  each  singer  was  impro- 
vising as  he  went  along,  but  on 
closer  comparison  it  will  be  found 
that  musical  phrases,  certain  fa- 
vorite passages  and  modulations 
in  the  voice,  constantly  recur  not 

only  in  each  song,  but  in  all  songs.  They  seem  all  of 
them  based  on  the  same  doleful  tune,  probably  a  very 
ancient  one,  and  only  the  different  time  in  which  it  is 
given,  and  the  eccentricities  of  the  singer,  give  it  a  sep- 
arate and  special  character.  One  characteristic  of  Shoka 
songs — as  of  so  many  other  Oriental  tunes — is  that  they 
have  no  rounded  ending,  and  this,  to  my  ears,  rather 
spoiled  them.  A  similar  abrupt  break  is  a  feature  of 
their  dances  and  their  drum -beating.  The  song  sud- 
denly stops  in  the  middle  of  the  air  with  a  curious  grat- 
ing sound  of  the  voice,  and  I  could  not  obtain  any  en- 
tirely satisfactory  explanation  of  this ;  the  only  answer 

107 


SHOKA  EAR- 
RING 


SHOKA  EAR- 
RING 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

given  me  was  that  the  singer  could  not  go  on  forever, 
and  that  as  long  as  he  stopped  it  did  not  matter  how 
he  did  it.  Further,  they  considered  an  abrupt  ending 
most  suitable  to  music  (or  dancing),  as  it  immediately 
brought  you  back  to  your  normal  state,  should  your 
mind  have  been  carried  away.  One  pleasant  feature 
was  that  their  songs  were  never  sung  in  a  loud  tone  of 


SILVER   EAR-RINGS   OF  TIBETAN   ORIGIN,  WITH   CORAL   BEADS 

voice,  nor  did  they  aim  at  notes  too  high  or  too  low 
for  their  voices,  but  kept  themselves  well  within  their 
compass. 

The  only  difference  between  solos  given  by  men  and 
those  sung  by  women  was  that  the  former  showed  more 
plaintiveness  and  sentimentality,  and  greater  mutability 
of  thought,  whereas  the  latter  were  more  uniform,  more 
lively,  and  less  imaginative  in  their  representation  of 
feelings.  The  words  of  the  love  -  songs,  nearly  always 
impromptu,  can  hardly  be  set  down  in  these  pages. 
From  our  standard  of  morality,  and  away  from  their  own 
special  surroundings,  they  might  seem  almost  lewd,  while 
in  their  place  they  certainly  did  not  impress  me  as  of- 

108 


MARRIAGE   CUSTOMS 

fensive.  When  singing,  the  Shokas  usually  raise  the  end 
of  their  white  shawl  or  dress,  and  hold  it  by  the  side  of 
the  head. 

Smoking  was  general,  each   couple  sharing  the  same 
pipe.     A  few  burning  sticks  of  pine  stuck  in  the  rough 


SHOKA   WOMAN   WEAVING 


wall  formed  the  only  illumination,  save  the  fire  in  the 
centre  of  the  room  slowly  burning  out.  Signs  of  sleepi- 
ness became  evident  as  morning  came,  and  soon  they  all 
retired  in  couples,  and  went  to  sleep  in  their  clothes  on 
a  soft  layer  of  straw  and  grass.  There  they  slept  peace- 
fully in  a  row,  and  I  retraced  my  steps  to  my  dig- 
gings amid  a  deafening  barking  of  pariah  dogs.  At 
these  gatherings  every  Shoka  girl  regularly  meets  with 
young  men,  and  while  she  entertains  the  idea  of  selecting 

109 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

from  among  them  a  suitable  partner  for  life,  she  also  does 
a  considerable  quantity  of  work  with  her  spinning-wheel. 
Eventually,  when  a  couple  consider  marriage  advisable, 
the  young  man,  dressed  in  his  best  clothes,  proceeds  to 
the  house  of  his  intended  father-in-law,  carrying  with  him 
a  pot  victiokti  (wine),  dried  {?\\\\.,ghur  (sweet  paste),  miseri 
(sugar-candy),  and  grilled  grain.  If  the  bridegroom  is 
considered  a  suitable  match,  the  parents  of  the  girl  re- 
ceive the  young  man  with  due  consideration,  and  par- 
take heartily  of  the  food  and  drink  proffered  by  him. 
The  marriage  is  there  and  then  arranged,  the  bride- 
groom further  disbursing  to  the  father  a  sum  of  not  less 
than  five  rupees  and  not  more  than  one  hundred.  This 
is  the  etiquette  of  good  Shoka  society,  and  of  all  peo- 
ple who  can  afford  it,  the  payment  being  called  "  milk- 
money,"  or  money  equivalent  to  the  sum  spent  by  the 
girl's  relations  in  bringing  her  up.  The  marriage  cere- 
mony is  simple  enough.  A  cake  called  Delang  is  baked, 
of  which  the  friends  of  the  two  families  partake.  If 
either  the  bridegroom  or  bride  refuse  to  eat  a  share  of 
the  cake,  the  marriage  is  broken  off;  if  they  both  eat 
some  of  the  cake,  and  later  any  dissension  arises  between 
them,  all  those  who  assisted  at  the  function  are  called  as 
witnesses  that  the  marriage  took  place.  Often  even  this 
primitive  ceremony  of  eating  cake  is  dispensed  with,  and 
Shoka  marriages  begin  and  continue  as  happy  and  faith- 
ful unions,  without  any  special  form  of  service  or  rite  to 
solemnize  the  tie. 

They  not  only  visit  adultery  on  the  guilty  man  himself 
by  beating  him,  but  the  men  proceed  en  masse  to  the 
house  of  his  parents  and  denude  it  of  all  furniture,  stores 
of  grain,  and  merchandise.  They  confiscate  the  sheep,, 
goats,  yaks,  and  all  their  valuable  saddles  and  loads,  and 
present  the  whole  proceeds  to  the  man  whose  wife  has 

I  10 


STRICT   SOCIAL   CODE 

been  seduced  —  a  recompense  for  the  shame  suffered. 
Frequently  the  unfortunate  and  innocent  relations  of  the 
evil-doer  are  bound  and  even  beaten  to  death  by  the 
villagers.  These  severe  measures  are  resorted  to  in  order 
to  maintain  a  high  standard  of  morality  and  honor,  and 


RAMBANG   GIRLS   WITH    ORNAMENTS 

there  is  little  doubt  that,  primitive  as  these  methods  may 
seem,  the  good  results  obtained  more  than  justify  them. 
There  are  very  few  illegitimate  births,  with  the  exception 
of  occasional  Rambang  children,  and  their  arrival  is  a 
matter  of  such  disgrace  that  they  cannot  be  looked  upon 
as  seriously  discrediting  the  social  value  of  the  Rambang. 


in 


CHAPTER  XVII 

FUNERAL      RITES 

DEPARTURE  OF  THE  SOUL  —  CREMATION  —  AMUSEMENT  OF  THE  DEAD 
MAN'S  SOUL— THE  LAY-FIGURE — FEASTING— DOLEFUL  DANCE— TRANS- 
MIGRATION OF  THE  SOUL— EXPENSIVE  CEREMONIES— OFFERINGS  BE- 
FORE THE  LAY-FIGURE — DANCING  AND  CONTORTIONS  —  MARTIAL 
DANCES — SOLO  DANCES— THE  ANIMAL  TO  BE  SACRIFICED  AND  THE 
LAY-FIGURE—CHASING  THE  ANIMAL  FROM  THE  VILLAGE— TEARING 
OUT  ITS  HEART — THE  YAK  DRIVEN  OVER  A  PRECIPICE — HEAD  SHAV- 
ING— A  SACRED  CAVE 

THE  Shokas  ascribe  death  to  the  departure  of  the  soul 
from  the  body,  and  to  this  notion  is  due  the  curious  rever- 
ence they  show  for  the  spirit  or  memory  of  their  dead.  I 
witnessed  a  funeral  ceremony  quaint  enough  to  deserve 
record. 

A  man  had  died  a  painful  death,  the  result  of  an  ac- 
cident. His  friends  were  immediately  sent  for,  and  the 
corpse,  having  been  smeared  with  butter  (ghi],  was  dressed 
in  his  best  clothes.  They  bent  his  body  double  before  the 
rigor  set  in,  and  placed  him  on  a  hurriedly  constructed 
wooden  hearse.  He  was  covered  with  a  blue-and-gold 
embroidered  cloth,  and  a  white  one  over  it.  At  sunrise 
the  funeral  procession  left  the  house  for  the  place  of  crema- 
tion. First  came  a  row  of  ten  women,  their  heads  cov- 
ered with  a  long  strip  of  white  cotton  cloth,  one  end  of 
which  was  tied  to  the  hearse.  Among  these  were  the  near 
relations  of  the  deceased,  including  his  wife  and  daughters, 
crying  and  wailing  the  words,  "  Ok  bajo  !  oh  bajo  /"  (Oh 
father !  oh  father !),  the  rest  of  them  sobbing  and  making 

112 


A    FUNERAL 

great  show  of  grief.  The  deceased  having  been  somewhat 
of  a  favorite  in  Garbyang,  the  villagers  turned  out  in 
force  to  render  him  this  last  tribute,  and  they  took  their 
places  in  the  procession  as  it  slowly  wound  down  the  cliff 
towards  the  river.  The  hearse  was  carried  by  two  men, 
and  each  male  Shoka  following  bore  a  log  or  bundle  of 


WEEPING    WOMEN    UNDER   WHITE   CLOTH 

firewood.  We  reached  the  Kali.  The  body  was  tempo- 
rarily laid  on  the  bank  of  the  stream,  while  all  the  men, 
with  heads  uncovered,  collected  large  stones  and  pieces  of 
wood.  With  the  stones  a  circular  crematory  oven,  five 
feet  high,  six  feet  in  diameter,  with  an  opening  on  the 
side  facing  the  wind,  was  erected  by  the  water-side.  The 
wife  and  daughters  of  the  departed,  with  their  hoods  turned 
inside  out  and  with  covered  faces,  squatted  down  mean- 
while by  the  hearse,  moaning  and  keeping  a  small  fire 
I.-H  113 


IN   THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

alight.  When  all  preparations  were  made,  the  oven  being 
heaped  up  with  logs  of  wood,  the  body  was  untied  from 
the  stretcher  and  lifted  by  two  intimates  of  the  departed 
on  to  the  funeral  pile.  All  valuables  were  removed,  his 
gold  ear-rings,  his  silver  locket  and  bracelets;  and  a  large 
knife  was  used  for  some  purpose  or  other  which  I  could  not 


SHOKA   FUNERAL   PILE 


quite  see,  except  in  slitting  the  lobes  of  the  corpse's  ears 
to  remove  his  ear-rings  more  quickly.  Branches  of  pine- 
tree  were  deposited  on  the  body,  and  a  large  pot  of  but- 
ter was  set  by  its  side.  A  brass  bowl  of  chokti  (wine)  was 
poured  on  the  head,  and  then,  in  profound  silence,  fire 
was  set  to  the  pile. 

A  few  white  puffs  showed  that  it  had  caught  fire,  and 
then  a  dense  column  of  black  smoke  rose  from  it,  filling 
the  atmosphere  with  a  sickening  smell  of  singed  hair  and 

114 


CREMATION 

burning  flesh.  The  wind  blew  the  smoke  towards  me, 
and  I  was  enveloped  in  it  for  some  moments,  during 
which  I  could  see  nothing  of  what  was  going  on,  and  I 
felt  my  eyes  smart  and  my  nostrils  fill  with  the  smoke 
and  the  stench.  Gradually  a  tall  flame,  over  twenty  feet 
high,  leaked  out,  consuming  the  body  and  showing  me, 
as  the  atmosphere  cleared,  the  Shokas  down  by  the  river 
washing  their  hands  and  faces  to  cleanse  themselves  of 
what  they  look  upon  as  unclean — the  contact  with  a  corpse. 
Retracing  their  steps  to  the  village,  the  women  cried  and 
moaned,  carrying  back  to  the  house  the  clothes  of  the  de- 
ceased and  his  brass  bowls. 

Reaching  home,  it  was  incumbent  on  them  to  provide 
lavishly  for  the  amusement  of  the  dead  man's  soul.  A  lay- 
figure  crudely  constructed  of  straw  and  sticks  was  attired 
by  them  in  the  clothes  of  the  departed,  and  covered  over 
with  Indian  fabrics  embroidered  in  gold  and  red  and  blue, 
and  a  turban  was  stuck  on  the  head,  with  -^panache  made 
of  a  branch  of  fir-tree.  The  Kalihe  was  at  the  side  of  the 
image.  When  the  fire  was  extinguished,  a  visit  was  paid 
to  the  cremation  spot  by  the  relatives  of  the  deceased,  and 
such  pieces  of  bone  as  the  knee-joints,  elbows,  and  the 
larger  vertebras  of  the  spine,  usually  left  undestroyed  by 
the  flames,  were  collected  and  deposited  inside  the  clothes 
of  the  image.  Wheat,  rice,  and  flour  were  purchased  in 
large  quantities  and  cooked  to  provide  food  for  the  mul- 
titude of  friends  who  remained  the  guests  of  the  family 
during  the  whole  time  of  the  funeral.  A  sheep  a  day  is 
usually  killed  and  eaten  on  such  occasions,  and  cask  after 
cask  of  chokti  (wine),  zahn  (a  liquor  distilled  from  barley, 
rice,  and  wheat),  and  anag  (from  fermented  grain  of  vari- 
ous kinds)  are  emptied  by  the  mourning  crowd.  The 
women  folk  of  the  dead  man  mourned  round  the  effigy, 
resting  their  heads  on  it,  crying  and  imploring  the  beloved 
i.— j  i 1 5 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

one  to  return  to  life.  Other  rows  of  women,  with  their 
hoods  turned  inside  out  in  sign  of  mourning,  danced 
gracefully  in  circles  round  the  dressed-up  figure,  left  the 
house  by  one  door  in  the  basement,  described  an  arc  in 
the  open,  and  returned  by  another  door,  while  men  were 
dancing  a  doleful  dance  outside  the  house.  Beating  of 


WOMEN   DUSTING   AND   CARESSING  THE   LAY-FIGURE 

drums  went  on  the  whole  day  —  languid  and  sad  at  mo- 
ments, excited,  violent,  and  rowdy  at  others,  according  to 
the  mood  of  the  musicians  and  the  quantity  of  liquor  con- 
sumed by  them.  On  each  day  of  these  proceedings,  which 
lasted  for  three  or  four  days,  rice,  baked  wheat,  and  wine 
were  placed  before  the  effigy,  until,  when  it  was  assumed 
that  the  soul  of  the  dead  had  had  a  sufficiently  amusing 
time, arrangements  were  made  for  its  transmigration  from 
the  lay-figure  into  a  live  sheep  or  yak.  If  the  deceased  is 
a  man,  the  animal  chosen  to  represent  him  is  a  male ;  if  a 
woman,  a  female  ;  but  no  ceremony  of  this  sort  follows  the 

116 


COSTLY    FUNERAL   CEREMONIES 

cremation  of  children  under  ten  or  twelve.  In  the  case 
of  the  old  man  whose  funeral  I  witnessed,  a  sheep  was 
chosen,  instead  of  the  time-hallowed  yak,  the  procuring  of 
which  from  Tibet  used  to  be  a  very  costly  business.  The 
use  of  a  sheep  for  these  sacrifices  is  quite  a  recent  innova- 
tion, brought  into  fashion  by  the  greatest  Shoka  trader  in 


WOMEN    DANCING   ROUND   THE    LAY-FIGURE 

Garbyang,  called  Gobaria,  whose  intention  it  was  to  put 
down  the  unnecessary  waste  of  these  ceremonies ;  but 
many  pious  Shokas,  I  was  assured,  are  not  satisfied  with 
so  small  an  offering  as  a  single  sheep,  and  slaughter  two, 
or  even  more,  on  these  occasions. 

After  several  days'  dancing  and  gorging  in-doors,  a 
crowd  collects,  to  the  sound  of  the  drums,  outside  the 
habitation.  The  lay-figure  is  transported  from  the  room 
either  directly  outside  the  dwelling  or  to  some  picturesque 
spot  in  the  woods.  This  is  generally  on  the  fourth  day. 

117 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Bowls  with  food  are  placed  in  front  of  it,  and  the  dancing 
is  begun,  to  a  curious  sentimental  strain,  with  a  graceful 
series  of  contortions,  by  girls  and  women  waving  large 
pieces  of  white  material.  The  legs  keep  time  with  the 
arms,  and  each  leg  is  alternately  bent  at  the  knee  until  it 
nearly  touches  the  ground.  The  head  is  inclined  to  the 
right  or  left,  and  thrown  backward  or  forward  according 
to  the  beating  of  the  drum.  The  circular  motion  in  the 
dancing  begins  first  very  slowly,  and  the  speed  then  in- 
creases by  degrees,  abruptly  ending  in  odd  and  suggestive 
postures.  During  the  intervals  of  dancing  the  relatives 
go  round  and  round  the  lay-figure,  dusting  and  fanning  it 
with  their  white  cloths. 

In  the  afternoon  the  men  join  the  performance,  and 
though  their  dancing  has  practically  the  same  character- 
istics and  motions  as  the  women's  dance,  it  is  usually  so 
much  more  violent  that  it  almost  partakes  of  the  character 
of  a  war-dance.  They  hold  in  their  right  hands  a  sword, 
in  their  left  a  circular  shield,  and  some  of  the  younger  men 
show  great  skill  in  the  rapid  manipulation  of  their  blades, 
twirling  them  round  their  heads  and  behind  their  backs. 
There  are  solos,  duets,  and  trios,  in  which  the  drummer 
or  drummers  take  part,  and  when  the  dancing  is  collec- 
tive they  head  the  procession,  contorting  their  bodies  and 
beating  their  drums  with  a  stick  on  one  side  and  the  palm 
of  the  hand  on  the  other. 

The  whole  crowd  is  constantly  regaled  by  the  family 
with  corn  baked  with  sugar,  roasted  Indian  corn,  rice, 
sweets,  ghur,  and  miseri,  when  the  lay-figure  is  supposed 
to  have  had  its  fill.  While  the  mob  eat,  the  ladies  of  the 
house  return  to  the  effigy  with  quick  beating  of  the 
drums,  and  again  double  themselves  up  in  solemn  lengthy 
courtesies.  Perhaps  the  most  interesting,  because  the  most 
accomplished,  were  the  solo  male  dancers,  each  performer 

118 


DANCES   AND   CONTORTIONS 

displaying  his  own  particular  genius.  The  drummer 
beats  his  drum  whimsically  —  fast  and  slow  alternately, 
with  no  rule — just  as  it  pleases  his  fancy,  and  the  dancer 
always  keeps  time  with  him  in  all  his  frenzies  and  eccen- 
tricities, so  that  his  movements  are  sometimes  so  slow  as 


THE   GOAT,  WITH   SOUL   OF   DECEASED,  BEING   FED 

to  be  barely  noticeable,  and  at  others  so  rapid  that  his 
arms  and  legs  can  no  longer  be  distinguished.  I  hap- 
pened to  witness  no  less  than  six  funerals  simultaneously 
in  Garbyang,  and  a  collective  war-dance  of  as  many  as 
three  hundred  men.  It  went  on  during  a  whole  day  and 
the  greater  part  of  the  following  night,  torches  and  a  big 
bonfire  burning. 

Eventually,  amid  firing  of  guns,  howls,  yells,  and  deaf- 
ening hissing  of  the  assembled  crowd,  the  animal  to  be 

119 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

sacrificed  is  dragged  before  the  lay-figure.  Long  colored 
ribbons  are  tied  round  its  horns,  and  the  ends  left  hang- 
ing by  the  side  of  its  head.  Sandal-wood  is  burned  under 
the  beast's  nostrils,  which  is  supposed  to  induce  the  soul 
of  the  departed  to  enter  and  establish  itself  in  the  animal. 
The  clothes,  the  turban,  the  shield,  the  jewelry,  are  torn 


GOAT,    WITH  SOUL   AND   CLOTHES   OF   DECEASED 

from  the  figure's  back  and  piled  on  to  the  goat,  which  is 
now  the  impersonation  of  the  deceased.  It  is  fed  until  it 
can  hold  no  more,  wine  and  liquor  being  poured  down  its 
throat,  and  large  dishes  of  all  possible  delicacies  being 
placed  before  it.  The  women  relatives  devote  to  it  their 
tenderest  affection,  and  shed  tears  over  it  in  the  con- 
viction that  it  holds  the  spirit  of  their  lost  protector. 
Stuffed  with  food  and  stupefied  by  the  alcohol,  the  beast 
submits,  emotionless  and  immovable,  to  the  wild  caresses, 

120 


YAK    DRIVEN    OVER    PRECIPICE 


HOW    THE    SOUL    IS    DISPOSED    OF 

prayers,  and  salaams  showered  on  it.  Again  the  hissing, 
whistling,  and  yelling  begin,  and  a  rush  is  made  for  the 
animal,  which  is  seized  by  the  horns,  the  neck,  the  tail, 
wherever  it  can  be  caught  hold  of,  and  dragged,  pushed, 
beaten,  and  at  last  chased  out  of  the  village,  but  not  until 


SENDING   THE   GOAT   AWAY    FROM   THE   VILLAGE 

after  the  clothes,  shield,  sword,  turban,  and  ornaments 
have  been  torn  from  its  back.  It  is  eventually  handed 
over  to  the  Hunyas  or  Jumlis  or  Humlis,  who  on  these 
occasions  benefit  by  the  simplicity  and  superstition  of  the 
Shokas,  and  who  throw  it  down,  rip  the  body  open,  and 
pull  out  the  heart,  or  twist  it  in  the  inside  with  a  jerk  that 
kills  instantly.  This  method  applies  to  sheep  or  goat. 
When  a  yak  is  sacrificed,  very  much  the  same  rites  take 

121 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

place  up  to  the  moment  when  the  lay-figure  is  deprived 
of  its  clothing  and  the  yak  invested  with  it.  It  is  similar- 
ly beaten  and  dragged  about,  and  left  on  the  top  of  some 
mountain,  the  crowd  calling  after  it,  "  Go  !  go!  We  have 
feasted,  feted,  and  fed  you.  We  have  done  all  in  our 
power  for  your  welfare.  We  cannot  do  more.  Go  now." 


TEARING  OUT  THE  HEART  OF  THE  GOAT 

With  this  the  yak,  with  the  soul  that  has  been  driven  into 
it,  is  left  to  its  own  devices,  and  as  soon  as  the  Shokas 
have  departed  is  driven  by  the  Tibetans  over  a  precipice, 
it  being  against  their  faith  to  draw  blood  from  a  yak.  In 
the  fatal  leap  the  animal  is  smashed  to  pieces,  and  the  Tib- 
etans, collecting  the  remains,  gorge  themselves  with  the 
prized  meat  of  their  cherished  yak. 

As  a  mark  of  reverence  the  Shoka  men  remove  their 
caps  not  only  while  following  the  corpse  to  cremation, 

122 


POST    MORTEM    RESTITUTION 

but  also  during  the  feasting,  the  male  relatives  themselves 
even  shaving  their  heads ;  and  this  practice  is  occasional- 
ly extended  to  the  whole  male  community  in  the  case 
of  a  particularly  respected  villager  dying.  The  women 
remove  their  jewelry,  and,  as  already  noted,  turn  their 
hoods  inside  out. 

When  all  is  over,  some  restitution  of  his  property  is 
made  to  the  dead,  and  odd  articles,  such  as  brass  bowls 
or  a  gun  or  a  shield  or  sword,  are  placed  in  a  sacred 
cave,  which  none  dare  desecrate  by  entering  to  remove 
anything.  These  caves  are  high  up  on  the  mountain- 
sides, and  are  said  to  be  full  of  sacred  offerings,  which 
have  accumulated  there  in  the  centuries. 

123 


CHAPTER    XVIII 


TOUCHING  SHOKA  FAREWELL — FEELINGS  CURIOUSLY  EXPRESSED— SOBS 
AND  TEARS  —  THE  START— A  FUNERAL  PROCESSION — DISTRESSED 
FATHER  AND  MOTHER — KACHI  AND  DOLA  THE  WORSE  FOR  DRINK — 
ANXIOUS  MOMENTS — THE  BRIDGE  DESTROYER 

THE  day  of  my  departure  came.     It  was    after  dark. 
Outside  my  dwelling  a  crowd  of  Shokas  had   assembled. 

I  bade  farewell  to 
my  host  Zeheram 
and  to  his  wife 
and  children,  who 
with  tears  in  their 
eyes  wished  me 
God-speed. 

"  Salaam,  sahib, 
salaam !"  repeated 
Zeheram,  sobbing 
and  bringing  his 
hand  respectfully 
to  his  forehead. 
"  You  know,  sahib, 

that  a  horse  goes  to  a  horse,  a  tiger  to  a  tiger,  a  yak 
to  a  yak,  and  a  man  to  a  man.  A  man's  house  is  an- 
other man's  house,  no  matter  whether  the  color  of  their 
skins  differ  or  not.  Therefore  I  thank  Heaven  that  you 
have  accepted  shelter  under  my  humble  roof.  You  must 
have  been  uncomfortable,  for  all  you  sahibs  are  rich  and 
accustomed  to  luxury.  I  am  only  a  trader  and  a  cul- 
tivator. I  am  poor,  but  I  possess  a  heart.  You,  unlike 

124 


KACHI    AND    HIS    RELATIONS 


A    TOUCHING   FAREWELL 

other  sahibs,  have  always  spoken  kindly  to  me  and  to  all 
of  us  Shokas.  We  feel  that  you  are  our  brother.  You 
have  given  us  presents,  but  we  needed  them  not.  The 
only  present  we  wish  for  is  that,  when  you  reach  the  end 
of  your  perilous  journey,  you  will  send  us  a  message  that 
you  are  well.  We  will  all  pray  day  and  night  for  you. 
Our  hearts  are  sore  at  your  leaving  us." 


THE    PATAN    SUMMONING   MY   COOLIES    FROM   THE  ROOF   OF   HIS    HOUSE 

This  from  the  rough  old  boy,  whom  I  had  got  really  to 
like,  was  touching,  and  I  told  him  I  hoped  I  might  some 
day  be  able  to  repay  him  for  his  kindness.  When  I  de- 
scended the  steps  there  was  quite  a  crowd  in  the  yard. 
Every  one  wished  to  bid  me  farewell.  The  men  took 
my  right  hand  in  both  theirs  and  brought  it  up  to  their 
foreheads,  muttering  words  of  grief  at  my  leaving.  The 
women  gently  caressed  my  face  and  bade  me  " Niku  tza" 
(Go  well — Farewell).  These  are  the  Shoka  fashions  of 
taking  leave  of  friends  who  are  departing  for  distant 
lands. 

L— K  125 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Led  by  the  hand  by  a  really  grieving  company,  I  moved 
towards  the  narrow,  steep  descent  to  the  Chongur  bridge, 
cut  into  the  slope  of  the  high  cliffs  of  clay.  On  the  way 
I  called  at  Kachi's  house,  but  he  had  gone  ahead.  A  more 
mournful  procession  could  not  be  imagined.  The  faint 
rays  of  a  new  moon  gave  an  added  melancholy  to  the 
scene,  and  that  peculiarly  impressive  sound  of  sad  steps, 
if  I  may  thus  express  the  pathetic  cadence  of  people's  gait 
when  afflicted,  made  me  feel  as  if  I  were  attending  my  own 
funeral.  I  begged  them  to  return  to  their  homes,  and  one 
after  the  other  they  came  to  embrace  my  feet  and  to  hold 
my  fingers.  Then,  hiding  their  faces  in  the  palms  of 
their  hands,  they  one  by  one  made  their  way  up  the  gray 
track  cut  into  the  lofty  cliff,  and,  like  phantoms,  gradually 
becoming  smaller  and  smaller,  vanished  in  the  distance. 
Still  some  twenty  or  thirty  insisted  on  escorting  me  down 
to  the  stream.  Farther  on  I  came  upon  the  excited  figure 
of  an  old  woman  tearing  her  hair  and  crying  pitifully. 
She  threw  herself  at  my  feet,  imploring  me  to  take  care 
of  her  son.  It  was  Kachi's  distressed  mother.  I  com- 
forted her  as  best  I  could,  and  also  the  desolate  father 
(good  old  Junia),  who  was  there  with  tears  streaming  down 
his  cheeks,  to  bid  me  an  affectionate  farewell. 

"  Where  is  your  son  ?" 

"  You  will  find  him  a  little  farther  down,  sahib." 

I  did — together  with  four  other  people  lying  on  the 
ground  all  in  a  heap.  One  of  them,  who  tried  to  stand  up, 
called  out,  "  Kachi,  get  up,  here  is  the  sahib,"  and  then 
collapsed  again  on  the  top  of  the  others.  Neither  Kachi 
nor  the  others  gave  any  sign  of  life,  and  when  I  spoke  to 
them  I  discovered  that  they  were  in  a  state  of  hopeless 
intoxication,  arm-in-arm  as  they  had  fallen  and  slept. 

By  the  side  of  Kachi  was  Dola,  his  uncle,  supposed  to 
be  employed  by  me  in  the  quadruple  capacity  of  inter- 

126 


PROCESS    UNDER    DIFFICULTIES 

preter,  carrier,  Kachi's  valet,  and  cook,  in  which  latter  art, 
after  Shoka  fashion,  he  was  quite  an  adept,  his  fame  hav- 
ing spread  all  over  Bias.  He  was,  therefore,  a  treasure 
not  lightly  to  be  abandoned,  and  yet,  now  that  I  wanted 
to  act  quickly  and  decisively,  I  had  to  weigh  whether  I 
should  proceed  with  two  of  the  most  important  characters 
in  my  play  disabled.  Should  I,  hampered  by  these  semi- 
corpses,  be  able  to  pass  unseen  the  watchful  Tibetan 
guard  at  the  Chongur  bridge,  only  a  few  hundred  yards 
farther  on  ?  I  decided  to  try.  Seizing  one  on  each  side 
under  their  armpits,  I  supported  them  and  kept  them 
erect.  It  was  no  easy  job,  and,  I  felt  our  speed  increase 
at  every  step  as  I  moved  with  my  staggering  mates  down 
the  steep  and  slippery  track.  We  reached  the  bottom  of 
the  hill  at  a  breakneck  rate,  and  as  the  track  was  narrow 
along  the  water's  edge,  it  was  a  wonder  that  we  did  not 
all  three  of  us  land  in  the  river.  As  it  was,  in  coming  sud- 
denly to  a  stop,  my  two  men  utterly  collapsed  again,  and 
I  was  so  exhausted  that  I  had  to  sit  down  and  rest. 

Kachi  Ram  had  a  lucid  interval.  He  gazed  round  and 
saw  me  for  the  first  time  that  night. 

"  Sahib,  I  am  drunk !"  he  exclaimed,  with  long  pauses 
between  each  word. 

"  That  is  quite  true,"  said  I. 

"We  Shokas  have  this  bad  habit,"  he  continued.  "  I 
had  to  drink  cliokti  with  all  my  relations  and  friends 
prior  to  leaving  for  this  long  journey.  They  would  have 
been  offended  if  I  had  not  divided  with  each  a  cup  of 
wine.  I  now  see  everything  go  round.  Please  put  my 
head  into  cold  water.  Oh  !  the  moon  is  jumping  about, 
and  is  now  under  my  feet !" 

I  complied  with  his  request,  and  gave  both  his  head 
and  Dola's  a  good  ducking  in  the  freezing  Kali  River. 

This  had  the  unfortunate  effect  of  sending  them  to 

127 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

sleep  so  soundly  that  I  thought  they  would  never  wake 
again.  Some  of  the  sober  Shokas  offered  to  carry  the 
two  helpless  men  on  their  backs.  We  were  wasting  val- 
uable time,  and  the  sky  was  getting  clouded.  When  the 
moon  had  disappeared  behind  the  high  mountain,  I  went 
ahead  to  reconnoitre.  All  was  darkness  but  for  the 
glimmer  of  a  brilliant  star  here  and  there  in  the  sky.  I 


THE   CHONGUR    BRIDGE    PREVIOUS    TO    BEING    DESTROYED 

crawled  to  the  bridge  and  listened.  Not  a  sound,  not  a 
light  on  the  opposite  bank.  All  was  silence — that  dead 
silence  of  nature  and  human  life  asleep.  I  stopped  on 
the  bridge.  This  structure  spans  the  river,  a  huge 
bowlder  in  the  centre  of  the  stream  serving  as  a  pillar, 
and  forms,  in  fact,  two  separate  bridges  joined  on  the  op- 
posite sides  of  this  central  bowlder.  I  walked  cautiously 
across  the  first  portion,  stood  to  listen  again  on  the  rock 

128 


RETURN    TO    GARBYANG 

dividing  the  foaming  waters,  and  tried  to  penetrate  the 
obscurity.  There  was  not  a  soul  to  be  seen  nor  a  sound 
to  be  heard.  I  went  over  the  rock  and  proceeded  tow- 
ards the  second  half  of  the  bridge,  when  I  found  to  my 
horror  that  this  second  half  of  the  bridge  had  been  cut 
down.  The  entire  section  had  collapsed,  and  with  the 
exception  of  a  long  beam  still  swinging  to  and  fro  with 
one  end  in  the  turbid  stream,  and  a  plank  or  two,  the 
whole  material  had  been  washed  away. 
I  returned  to  mv  men. 

J 

"  We  must  continue  our  way  on  this  side  of  the  river," 
I  whispered  to  them.  "  The  Tibetans  have  destroyed  the 
bridge." 

"  The  track  is  traced,"  they  replied,  "  but  it  is  impassa- 
ble at  night." 

"  Never  mind ;  we  must  go.  Come."  And  I  headed 
the  silent  procession. 

We  went  about  a  mile.  Yet  another  dilemma.  Kachi 
and  Dola  were  still  fast  asleep.  The  others,  tired  and 
worn  out  with  the  fatigue  of  carrying  them,  wished  to 
turn  back.  The  sky  was  now  clouded  all  over  and  rain 
was  coming  on. 

I  felt  that  it  was  useless  to  persist.  Having  seen  the 
two  drunken  creatures  laid  flat  under  a  shed  and  well 
covered  with  blankets,  I  therefore  returned  to  Garbyang, 
with  the  intention  of  making  a  fresh  start  shortly  before 
sunrise,  when  the  drunkards  would  probably  be  fit  to 
walk  by  themselves,  and  found  shelter  under  the  ever- 
hospitable  roof  of  Dr.  Wilson. 

129 


CHAPTER   XIX 

A  DANGEROUS  TRACK  —  PERILOUS  PASSAGE  —  A  CURIOUS  BRIDGE  OVER 
A  PRECIPICE — PATHETIC  SHOKA  CUSTOM — SMALL  MISADVENTURES— 
A  GRAND  RECEPTION — TEA  FOR  ALL  TASTES 

AT  4  A.M.,  before  the  sun  rose,  I  made  a  fresh  and 
hurried  start.  I  proceeded  quickly  to  the  spot  where  I 
had  left  the  two  drunken  men.  They  had  gone  ahead. 

Indeed,  the  track  was  a  bad  and  dangerous  one,  over 
hanging  precipices,  and  hardly  wide  enough  to  give 
standing  room  upon  it.  We  came  to  a  spot  where  the 
narrow  path  stopped.  There  was  before  us  a  perpendic- 
ular rock  descending  straight  as  a  wall  to  the  Kali  River. 
The  corrosive  action  of  dripping  water  and  melting 
snow,  of  which  last  there  seemed  to  be  a  thick  layer 
higher  above  on  the  summit  of  the  cliff,  had  worn  the 
face  of  the  rock  quite  smooth.  The  distance  across  this 
vertical,  wall-like  ravine  was  not  more  than  forty  or  fifty 
feet.  On  the  other  side  of  it  the  narrow  track  began 
again. 

Owing  to  this  and  other  dangerous  places,  this  route 
is  but  very  seldom  used  by  the  natives  or  by  any  one 
else.  The  road  generally  taken  is  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  Kali  River,  in  Nepal  territory.  Nevertheless,  a 
few  Shokas  possess  bits  of  land  on  this  bank  of  the 
stream,  and  it  was  by  them  that,  in  order  to  surmount 
the  obstacle  before  which  I  now  stood,  the  following  ex- 
pedient was  devised  in  former  years. 

By  letting  down  a  man  from  above  with  ropes  they 

130 


A    PERILOUS   PASSAGE 


A    DANGEROUS    PASSAGE 

succeeded  in  making  two  rows  of  small  hollows  in  the 
rock,  along  two  parallel  horizontal  lines,  the  higher  of 
which  was  about  six  feet  or  so  above  the  lower.  The 
holes  were  dug  at  intervals  of  three  or  four  feet  along 
each  line,  the  upper  ones  to  be  caught  on  by  one's 
hands,  the  lower  ones  to  support  one's  feet,  and  none  of 
the  cavities  are  deeper  than  a  few  inches. 

The  transit  seemed  dangerous  at  any  time,  and  impos- 
sible just  then,  because  the  drizzling  rain  which  had  set 
in  had  wet  the  rock  and  made  it  as  slippery  as  glass,, 
but  I  realized  that  the  thing  had  to  be  risked,  and  at  any- 
cost.  With  an  affected  air  of  assurance  I  therefore  took 
off  my  boots  and  went  ahead. 

I  could  not  look  about  me,  for  I  clung  with  my  body 
to  the  wall,  feeling  my  way  with  my  toes  and  fingers. 
The  cavities  were,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  so  shallow  that 
progress  was  slow  and  troublesome.  When  the  toes  of 
the  right  foot  seemed  firmly  planted  in  a  receptacle,  the 
right  arm  was  made  to  slide  along  the  rock  until  the 
fingers  had  obtained  a  firm  grip  in  the  cavity  directly 
above  the  one  in  which  the  toes  were.  Then  the  entire 
body  had  to  be  shifted  from  left  to  right,  bringing  the 
left  foot  and  hand  close  to  the  right  extremities  and  sus- 
pending one's  weight  on  the  former,  so  as  to  render  the 
right  foot  and  arm  ready  to  make  the  next  move  forward, 
and  so  on,  till  I  reached  the  other  side  and  alighted  upon 
the  narrow  track,  which  was  itself  only  five  or  six  inches 
wide.  Chanden  Sing,  having  tied  his  shoes  and  mine 
over  his  shoulders,  proceeded  barefooted  on  the  same 
hazardous  enterprise.  With  none  of  the  excitement  of 
personal  danger,  the  moments  of  apprehension  while 
he  groped  his  way  with  toes  and  fingers,  half  par- 
alyzed with  cold  and  fear,  were  to  me  worse  even  than 
those  of  my  own  passage.  But  he,  too,  got  across  safe 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

and   sound,  and  after  that  the    rest   was   comparatively 
easy. 

It  was  necessary  now  to  look  out  for  signs  of  the  two 
men,  Kachi  and  Dola,  who  had  preceded  us.  I  was  glad 
to  find  a  little  farther  on  fresh  footmarks,  undoubtedly 
those  of  the  two  Shokas.  The  track  still  ascended  and 
descended  nearly  all  along  precipitous  cliffs,  and  was 
everywhere  dangerously  narrow,  with  here  and  there  bits 
on  shaky  crow-bars.  At  one  spot  the  rugged  formation 
of  the  cliff  forced  one  suddenly  to  ascend  to  its  very  top 
and  cross  (on  all-fours)  a  rude  kind  of  bridge  made  of 
branches  of  trees  spanned,  not  horizontally,  but  at  an 
angle  of  sixty  degrees  over  a  precipice  of  several  hundred 
feet.  I  found  a  white  thread  of  wool  laid  over  this  prim- 
itive structure,  in  accordance  with  the  custom  of  the 
Shokas  at  the  death  of  relatives  or  friends  away  from 
their  native  village.  The  soul  is  supposed  to  migrate 
during  the  dark  hours  of  the  night  and  to  return  to  the 
birthplace  of  the  deceased,  these  white  threads  showing 
the  way  at  dangerous  places  on  the  road. 

Having  lost  the  track  more  than  once,  we  found  our- 
selves down  at  the  edge  of  the  Kali  and  compelled  to 
climb  up  some  three  hundred  feet  over  sand  and  rolling 
stones  to  regain  the  path. 

We  arrived  at  last  at  Nabi.  There  I  found  my  loads 
safe  and  sound,  having  got  there  by  the  better  track  on 
the  Nepalese  side  previously  to  the  Chongur  bridge  be- 
ing destroyed  by  the  Tibetans ;  also  Kachi  and  Dola,  who 
had  got  over  and  recovered  from  their  drink.  To  make 
up,  perhaps,  for  their  past  misbehavior,  and  probably  to 
make  me  overlook  or  forget  it,  they  seemed  to  have  in- 
duced the  natives  to  welcome  me  with  particular  cordial- 
ity. I  was  invited  by  them,  with  much  show  of  hospital- 
ity, to  spend  the  night  in  the  village. 

132 


HOSPITABLE    NATIVES 

I  was  led  with  some  ceremony  to  a  primitive  sort  of 
ladder  with  very  roughly  carved  steps,  and  shoved,  with 
help  from  above  and  below,  on  to  a  flat  mud  roof.  Here 
a  tent  had  been  pitched,  the  floor  of  which  was  covered 
with  mats  and  rugs  for  me  to  rest  on.  I  no  sooner  laid 
myself  down  than  a  string  of  men,  women,  and  children 
arrived,  carrying  bowls  with  a  particularly  sumptuous 
meal  of  rice,  dhal,  meat,  Balab  (or  boiled  buckwheat 
leaves),  curd,  milk,  broiled  corn  with  sugar,  chapatis,  shale, 
sweets,  native  wine  and  liquor. 

During  the  meal,  tea  was  served  in  all  sorts  of  fashions. 
There  was  Chinese  tea  and  Indian  tea,  tea  boiled  with 
sugar  and  tea  without  it,  tea  with  milk,  and  tea  with 
butter  and  salt  in  it,  pale  tea  and  dark  tea,  sweet  tea  and 
bitter  tea  —  in  fact,  tea  until  I,  devoted  as  I  am  to  it, 
wished  that  no  tea-leaf  had  ever  been  picked  and  stewed 
in  boiling  water. 


CHAPTER   XX 

DR.  WILSON  JOINS  AIY  EXPEDITION  FOR  A  FEW  MARCHES  —  WHAT  MIS- 
DEEDS A  PHOTOGRAPHIC  CAMERA  CAN  DO— WEIGHING,  DIVIDING,  AND 
PACKING  PROVISIONS — TWO  EXTRA  MEN  WANTED — THE  LAST  FRIEND- 
LY FACES 

I  WAS  examining  a  young  woman  who  had  badly  in- 
jured and  partly  fractured  a  central  vertebra  of  the  spine, 
when  Dr.  Wilson  turned  up  and  gave  the  poor  wretch  the 
little  relief  possible  in  her  condition,  for  which  she  had 
hoped  in  vain  from  me.  He  was  welcome  to  me  for  many 
reasons  besides  the  pleasure  of  being  in  his  company. 
He  had  offered  to  join  my  expedition  for  a  few  marches 
into  Tibet,  and  I  was  glad  indeed  to  have  him  with  me. 
We  pushed  on  as  soon  as  possible  over  the  road  between 
Nabi  and  Kuti,  which  I  have  already  described.  Our 
journey  was  quite  uneventful,  and  the  snow-bridges  and 
snow-fields,  so  troublesome  when  I  had  first  taken  this 
road,  had  melted  and  altogether  disappeared.  Even  at 
Nabi  little  happened.  But  I  must  just  mention  the  fol- 
lowing incident  as  illustrative  of  the  curious  suspicion  and 
dislike  I  found  everywhere  of  the  photographic  apparatus 
I  carried  with  me. 

I  was  on  the  point  of  leaving  the  place  when  a  hand, 
some  Tibetan  woman,  whom  I  had  not  previously  noticed, 
accosted  me  with  hysterical  sobs — inarticulate,  but  con- 
veying a  very  clear  impression  of  suffering. 

"  You  have  killed  my  child,  and  now  you  will  kill  my 
husband,"  she  complained,  when  she  was  able  to  talk ;  and 
I  then  discovered  that  I  had  on  my  previous  visit  to  Nabi 

134 


MY    CAMERA'S    RESPONSIBILITIES 

taken  a  snap-shot  at  a  child  perched  on  the  top  of  a  very 
heavy  load  that  happened  to  be  carried  on  the  woman's 
back  through  my  camp,  and  that  when  she  complained  I 
had  appeased  her,  in  the  usual  way,  with  a  coin.  She  had 
conveyed  her  load  to  Kuti,  and  had  slipped,  on  her  way 
back  with  her  child,  at  a  spot  not  far  from  where  I  had 
had  my  slide,  but,  less  fortunate  than  myself,  had  rolled 


THE  PHOTOGRAPH  THAT  CAUSED  THE  CHILD  S  DEATH 

right  into  the  foaming  stream.  She  managed  to  cling  to 
the  rock  and  was  eventually  saved,  but  the  infant  was 
washed  from  rock  to  rock  by  the  current,  and  disappeared 
under  a  snow  tunnel. 

"  Oh,  sahib !"  cried  the  woman,  "  if  you  had  not  before 
we  started  looked  at  us  through  the  eyes  (the  twin  lenses) 
of  your  black  box  (the  photographic  camera),  I  should  not 
have  lost  my  baby." 

"  And  how  about  your  husband  ?" 

"  Oh,  you  will  kill  him  too." 

135 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

"  But  I  don't  know  your  husband.  Anyhow,  I  promise 
not  to  look  at  him  with  these  eyes." 

"  It  is  not  that,  sahib,  but  he  is  going  with  you  to 
Tibet.  He  is  carrying  one  of  your  loads.  You  will  all 
be  killed." 

She  pointed  him  out  to  me — one  of  the  strongest 
among  the  men  I  had,  and  the  most  anxious  to  accom- 
pany me.  He  was  too  good  to  lose,  and  I  was  certainly 
unwilling  to  renounce  my  claim  to  him  on  account  of  his 
good  woman's  tears.  So  I  consoled  her  as  best  I  could ; 
promised  to  take  good  care  of  him,  and  under  no  circum- 
stances to  photograph  him. 

At  Kuti,  Dr.  Wilson  and  I  were  busy  for  several  hours 
weighing,  dividing,  and  packing  in  equal  loads  the  pro- 
visions I  had  purchased — fourteen  immds  in  all  (ii2olbs.) 
of  flour,  rice,  red  sugar  (g/iur),  salt,  red  pepper  (32  Ibs.), 
Dhal,  miseri  (lump  sugar),  ghi  (butter),  and  a  large  quan- 
tity of  satoo  (oatmeal),  and  broiled  corn.  There  were,  in 
addition,  the  preserved  and  tinned  provisions  which  I  had 
brought  with  me  from  London. 

To  give  my  carriers  no  cause  for  complaint,  I  allowed 
them  to  choose  their  own  shoes,  blankets,  etc.,  and  I  did 
all  in  my  power  to  humor  them,  because  the  loads  threat- 
ened to  be  excessively  heavy.  In  fact,  I  found  that,  even 
after  dispensing  with  everything  but  what  was  absolutely 
essential,  there  was  still  ample  to  carry  for  at  least  two 
strong  men.  Every  available  Shoka  had  joined  the  party, 
and  no  inducement  that  I  could  offer  brought  me  more 
volunteers.  I  was  very  unwilling  to  delay,  and  I  was  on 
the  point  of  subdividing  among  the  men  I  already  had 
the  two  extra  loads,  when  two  stray  shepherds  turned  up, 
half-famished  and  naked,  with  long,  unkempt  heads  of 
hair,  and  only  a  coral  necklace  and  a  silver  bangle  by  way 
of  clothing.  I  quickly  secured  them,  and  although  one  was 

136 


READY    TO    START 

really  only  a  boy,  I  decided  to  trust  to  luck  and  take  Dr. 
Wilson's  assurance  that  he  looked  tough  enough  and 
would  be  useful. 

This  brought  my  little  force   up  to  thirty  strong,  and 
now  I  was  ready  to  start. 


CHAPTER   XXI 

THE  KUTI  CASTLE — UNDER  WAY — OUR  FIRST  DISASTER— A  CHEERFUL 
AND  A  SULKY  COOLIE — MANSING — A  BRIGAND — A  STRANGE  MEDLEY 
OF  FOLLOWERS — A  CHARACTER — TAILORING— FIELDS  OF  STONES — 
TROUBLESOME  RIVERS — THE  JOLINKAN  OR  LEBUNG  PASS — SENSE  OF 
HUMOR — PLEASED  WITH  SMALL  COMFORTS 

BEFORE  leaving  Kuti,  I  went  to  see  the  curious  and  an- 
cient castle  perched  on  a  small  hill  about  three  hundred 
yards  south  of  the  village.  It  is  now  in  ruins,  with  the 
exception  of  a  quadrangular  tower  called  by  the  natives 
the  Kuti  Ker,  but  the  foundations  of  the  whole  structure 


PLAN   OF    KUTI   CASTLE 

I.  Piles  of  stones.     2.  Steps.     3.  Outer  wall.     4.  Tower.      5.  Blacksmith's  house. 

6.  Windows. 

can  still  be  plainly  seen.  I  made  a  plan,  which  is  here  repro- 
duced, as  it  may  be  of  archaeological  interest.  The  natives 
could  give  me  no  information  regarding  it,  except  that  it 
was  once  a  king's  palace  strongly  fortified.  A  small  house 
of  several  rooms  by  the  side  of  the  tower  is  said  to  have 
been  the  blacksmith's  shop  in  which  the  arrow-heads  and 

138 


A    CATASTROPHE 

swords  for  the  king's  soldiers  were  made.  The  tower  is 
four  yards  square  at  its  base,  and  built  of  stone.  Judging 
by  its  shape  and  construction,  and  the  curious  windows, 
I  am  inclined  to  attribute  this  castle  to  Tibetan  workman- 
ship, for  identical  towers  are  seen  in  Tibet,  even  atTakla- 
kot.  The  windows,  or  rather  slits,  on  each  floor  of  the 
tower  were  six  inches  square ;  those  in  the  blacksmith's 
house  were  considerably  larger.  There  were  outer  walls 
for  the  defence  of  the  fort  at  places  where  the  castle 
would  have  been  most  accessible.  Quantities  of  stones 
piled  up  in  heaps  probably  served  as  ammunition  for  the 
defenders  of  the  fortress  in  centuries  gone  by. 

When  I  returned  to  camp  all  was  ready,  and  after  end- 
less trouble  with  some  of  my  men,  who  were  already  un- 
certain as  to  whether  they  would  accompany  me  on  my 
journey  or  not,  I  eventually  got  under  way  in  the  after- 
noon. The  Kuti  village  is  the  highest  in  Bias,  being  sit- 
uated at  an  elevation  of  12,920  feet. 

The  track  was  now  comparatively  free  from  snow  and 
ice  except  here  and  there,  where  we  had  to  cross  exten- 
sive slopes  covered  with  snow.  On  one  of  these  we  had 
our  first  disaster.  A  coolie  fell  who  carried  in  his  hand 
a  large  pot  containing  butter.  He  fortunately  did  not 
slide  far  down,  but  we  had  the  bitter  disappointment 
of  seeing  our  precious  pot  roll  into  the  water  and  dis- 
appear forever.  We  camped  at  an  elevation  of  13,050 
feet.  Late  in  the  evening,  as  my  men  were  collecting 
wood  to  keep  up  a  huge  fire  round  which  we  sat,  my  two 
coolies,  who  had  remained  at  Kuti  with  instructions  to 
follow,  arrived  with  their  respective  loads.  They  were 
two  strange  characters.  The  one  with  a  coral  necklace 
was  mournful  and  sulky,  the  other  lively  and  talkative. 
They  professed  to  be  by  caste  Rajiputs. 

"  You  see,"  exclaimed  the  cheerful  coolie,  "  I  am  small, 

L— L  139 


IN   THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

but  I  fear  nothing.  When  we  cross  into  Tibet  I  shall  go 
ahead  with  a  pointed  stick  and  clear  all  the  Tibetans  away. 
I  am  not  afraid  of  them.  I  am  ready  to  fight  the  whole 
world." 

Knowing  the  value  of  this  sort  of  talk  on  the  part  of 
natives,  I  shut  him  up  and  sent  him  'away  to  fetch  wood. 


MANSING,  THE   LEPER,  SHOWING   HIS   HANDS 


The  sulky  fellow  interested  me  more.  He  seldom  uttered 
a  word,  and  when  he  did  he  never  spoke  pleasantly ;  he 
was  apparently  immersed  in  deep  thought,  from  which  it 
seemed  a  great  effort  to  draw  his  mind  away.  He  looked 
painfully  ill.  Motionless  and  speechless,  he  would  stare 
at  a  fixed  point  as  if  in  a  trance.  His  features  were  pe- 
culiarly refined  and  regular,  but  his  skin  had  that  ghastly, 
shiny,  whitish  tinge  so  peculiar  to  lepers.  I  waited  for  an 
opportunity  to  examine  his  hands,  on  which  he  sat  to  keep 

140 


MANSING   AND    THE    BRIGAND 

them  warm.  It  is  there,  in  the  contracted  or  dropping-off 
fingers,  that  one  finds  the  first  certain  symptoms  of  that 
most  terrible  of  all  diseases,  leprosy.  I  asked  the  man 
to  come  and  sit  nearer  the  blazing  fire.  He  came  and 
stretched  out  his  open  palms  towards  the  flickering  flame. 
Alas!  my  suspicions  were  but  too  correct.  His  fingers, 
distorted  and  contracted,  with  the  skin  sore  at  the  joints, 
were  sad  and  certain  proof.  I  examined  his  feet  and 
found  the  same  symptoms  there  also. 

"  What  is  your  name  ?"  I  inquired  of  him. 

"  Mansing,"  he  said,  dryly,  becoming  immediately  again 
absorbed  in  one  of  his  reveries. 

The  crackling  fire  was  dying  down  when  a  stalwart 
Tibetan  suddenly  appeared,  bent  low  under  the  heavy 
weight  of  a  huge  tree-trunk  he  was  carrying  on  his  back. 
He  approached  and  threw  the  wood  on  the  fire. 

Here  was  another  character!  As  strong  as  an  ox,  this 
servant  of  mine  had  queer  antecedents.  He  was  at  one 
time  a  well-known  bandit  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lhassa. 
He  was  said  to  have  taken  many  lives,  and,  finding  his 
own  in  danger  in  his  country,  had  come  to  settle  on  our 
side  of  the  border,  marrying  different  wives,  whom  he 
constantly  beat  and  in  turn  banished  from  under  his  roof. 
It  was  owing  to  his  latest  family  squabble  that  he  came 
into  my  employ  ;  his  abnormal  strength,  valuable  for  carry- 
ing loads,  was  to  me  his  only  recommendation.  In  camp 
he  went  by  the  name  of  Daku,  "  the  brigand." 

In  looking  round  to  inspect  my  other  followers,  with 
whom  I  had  hardly  yet  got  acquainted,  I  was  amused  and 
interested  at  the  strange  medley  of  creatures  forming  my 
band.  There  were  Humlis  and  Jumlis,  with  their  luxuri- 
ant black  hair  tied  into  small  tresses  and  a  topknot  over 
the  head,  like  the  Coreans.  There  were  Tibetans,  Shokas 
of  Bias,  Rongbas,  Nepalese,  Rajiputs,  and  Totolas,  also 

141 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

a  Brahmin,  two  native  Christians,  and  a  Johari.  Then 
Dr.  Wilson.  What  a  collection !  What  a  chaos  of  lan- 
guages and  dialects ! 

An  amusing  feature  of  this  odd  crowd  was  that  each 
particular  caste  looked  down  upon  all  the  others.  This 
from  the  very  beginning  occasioned  separation  during 
meal-time,  and  the  camp  was  lively  with  as  many  burning 
fires  in  as  many  sheltered  spots  as  there  were  castes  of 
men  following  me.  I  was  glad  of  this,  as  it  seemed  a  sort 
of  guarantee  that  they  would  never  all  join  together  to 
conspire  against  me. 

Poor  Mansing,  the  leper,  was  shivering  with  cold.  He 
had  been  unable  to  purchase  himself  a  blanket  and  shoes 
at  Kuti.  He  had  spent  the  money  on  tobacco  instead. 
Dr.  Wilson  and  I  took  pity  upon  him.  The  long  evening 
was  still  before  us,  so  I  got  out  the  cloth  I  had  pur- 
chased at  Kuti,  and  with  scissors  and  needle  we  began  to 
cut  and  sew  a  new  set  of  garments  for  the  poor  wretch. 
The  Doctor  did  the  cutting  and  I  the  sewing.  I  cannot 
boast  that  a  professional  tailor  would  not  have  turned  out 
a  better  fit,  but  for  all  general  purposes  the  newly  made 
clothes  answered  well  enough.  There  was  only  one  incon- 
venience in  the  single-breasted  jacket.  I  had  no  buttons, 
and  was  therefore  compelled  to  sew  the  coat  on  the  man 
himself.  It  thus  remained  a  fixture,  and  not  only  looked 
all  right,  but — which  was  our  chief  object — kept  him  warm. 

We  left  camp  at  5.30  the  following  morning.  High 
mountains  rose  on  either  side  of  us,  and  we  followed  the 
Kuti  River  flowing  here  from  west  to  east.  At  an  eleva- 
tion of  13,980  feet  we  crossed  the  Bitroguare  River.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  Kuti  River  were  high  perpendicular 
cliffs  of  a  vividly  red-colored  rock  with  blue  horizontal 
stratifications,  and  towering  over  them  a  succession  of 
very  pointed  peaks. 

142 


A    BAD   CROSSING 

The  action  of  ice  on  the  rock  was  noticeable  every- 
where. As  we  went  farther  we  came  upon  extensive  fields 
of  stones  and  bowlders  brought  down  from  the  higher 
peaks  by  the  ice,  and  in  some  places  we  found  actual  mo- 
raines. To  our  left  stood  a  gigantic  wall  of  stone  like  a 
natural  impregnable  fortress.  Travelling  in  a  direction 
of  320°  (b.  m.),  and  at  elevations  of.  13,90x3  feet,  14,200  feet, 
14,300  feet,  we  waded  through  three  tributaries  of  the  Kuti; 
then  we  came  to  a  foaming,  rapid,  and  deep  river,  which  we 
had  great  difficulty  in  crossing.  It  was  getting  towards 
the  middle  of  the  day,  and  the  stream,  fed  by  the  snows 
melting  under  the  hot  sun,  was  rising  from  moment  to 
moment.  Two  of  my  coolies,  whom  I  first  sent  in,  reached 
the  middle,  where  the  water  came  up  to  their  chins.  They 
lost  their  footing  and  were  temporarily  helpless,  and  in 
some  danger  of  being  swamped,  the  loads  which  they  car- 
ried on  their  heads  being  partly  spoiled  when  we  suc- 
ceeded in  recovering  them.  The  other  men  got  fright- 
ened by  the  time  they  were  ready  to  cross.  The  river 
had  risen  so  high  that  it  was  impossible  to  get  to  the 
other  side  except  by  swimming,  and  this  was  out  of  the 
question,  on  account  of  the  loads.  We  therefore  had  to 
follow  the  stream  upward  for  about  a  mile,  when  fortu- 
nately we  found  a  somewhat  dangerous  yet  passable 
snow  bridge,  over  which  the  remainder  of  my  men  and 
goods  effected  a  crossing  in  safety.  We  returned  to  our 
course  on  the  Kuti,  still  passing  between  high,  rugged 
mountains  along  an  undulating  plain  averaging  about  400 
yards  wide.  Though  at  comparatively  high  elevations, 
there  were  large  patches  of  brightly  colored  flowers — red, 
violet,  white,  and  vivid  yellow — which  gave  to  the  land- 
scape a  picturesque  and  constantly  changing  effect. 

On  reaching  a  small  pass,  14,750  feet,  the  path  branched 
to  Darma  by  the  Jolinkan  towards  bearings  260°,  and  over 

H3 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

the  Lebung  Pass.  It  is  really  only  a  goat  track,  exceed- 
ingly difficult  and  fatiguing,  except  in  the  month  of 
August,  when  there  is  only  a  small  quantity  of  snow,  and 
it  leads  to  the  Dholi  River  about  half  a  mile  south  of 
Khumling. 

The  Jolinkan  River,  rising  from  the  snow-field  to  the 
east  of  the    Lebung  or   Jolinkan    Pass,   had    now  to  be 


THE   JOLINKAN  OR    LEBUNG    PASS 

crossed.  The  stalwart  dacoit,  ever  ready  to  make  himself 
useful,  conveyed  his  load  across,  and,  lifting  me  like  a 
feather  on  to  his  back,  saved  me  from  plunging  higher 
than  my  waist  into  the  bitterly  cold  water,  whereas  he 
was  covered  up  to  his  neck.  The  course  of  the  Kuti 
turns  now  to  330°  (b.  m.).  Going  up  and  down  small 
barren  hills,  round  the  foot  of  high  mountains,  we  at- 
tained an  altitude  of  15,000  feet.  Here,  to  the  left  of  the 
track,  and  eighty  feet  above  it,  is  a  small  and  beautiful 

144 


SOAKED    AND    FROZEN 

lake,  500  yards  long  and  400  wide.  Its  waters,  in  which 
the  high  snowy  peaks  round  it  are  reflected  as  in  a  silver 
mirror,  find  an  outlet  in  a  short  but  most  precipitous 
river  flowing  with  tremendous  force  into  the  Kuti.  Soon 
after  leaving  this  lake  we  came  upon  another  small  sheet 
of  water,  near  which  were  thirteen  peculiar  piles  or 
columns  of  stones,  each  one  having  been  erected  by  the 
first  Tibetan  or  Shoka  who  crossed  the  pass  during  the 
summer.  A  similar  erection  could  also  be  seen  perched 
on  a  large  rock  jutting  out  from  the  water  of  the  larger 
lake.  Though  the  sun  was  fast  going  down  behind  the 
mountains  to  the  west,  we  pressed  on,  trying  to  make  as 
much  headway  as  we  could  towards  the  perpetual  snows. 
We  still  travelled  over  undulating  ground,  and  the  march- 
ing was  not  heavy  or  difficult,  save  for  the  freezingly  cold 
and  very  rapid  streams  we  had  to  wade  through.  It  was 
all  we  could  do  to  get  warm  again  after  having  been  im- 
mersed in  one,  and  before  we  had  ce*ased  shivering  we 
had  to  wade  through  the  next,  and  yet  the  next,  so  that 
one's  chilliness  increased,  and  the  constant  discomfort  of 
cold  became  very  trying.  Much  discontent  prevailed 
among  my  carriers  over  the  very  long  march,  as  their  feet 
were  numbed  with  cold.  They  nearly  mutinied  when  I 
would  not  let  them  stop  at  a  camp  they  had  selected,  but 
ordered  them  to  proceed  farther.  A  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  point  they  had  favored,  we  overlooked  a  large,  flat 
basin  of  stones  and  gravel,  about  half  a  mile  wide  and 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  long,  which  had  the  appearance 
of  having  formerlv  been  a  lake.  It  was  surrounded  by 

O  J  •* 

high  snowy  peaks,  and  its  bed  lay  at  an  altitude  of  15,400 
feet.  It  seemed  as  if  the  immense  quantity  of  stones  and 
pebbles  carried  by  the  river  feeding  it  had  raised  its 
bed  until  it  had  caused  the  water  to  flow  into  the  Kuti. 
When  I  saw  it,  the  river  formed  an  extensive  delta 

145 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

with  as  many  as  twelve  arms,  joining  again  within  the 
basin  into  one  single  stream  before  throwing  itself  into 
the  Kuti.  Naturally  we  selected  the  wider  expanse  of 
water  to  ford,  assuming  that  it  would  be  shallower  than 
the  narrow  ones.  Once  more  that  day  I  took  off  my 
lower  garments  and  entered  the  cold  water.  It  came 
direct  from  the  snows,  and  its  temperature  was  slightly 
above  freezing-point.  The  sun  had  gone  down,  and  there 
was  a  piercing  wind.  My  feet,  as  I  went  in  and  out  of 
the  numerous  branches  of  the  stream,  became  so  cold 
that  I  could  hardly  stand  for  the  stinging  pain;  moreover, 
treading  on  sharp-edged  stones  under  the  water  and 
knocking  my  frozen  toes  against  them  was  at  first  very 
painful,  but  after  a  time  they  got  so  frozen  that,  though 
at  each  step  the  soles  of  my  feet  and  toes  were  cut  and 
bruised,  I  suffered  no  actual  pain  until  after  crossing  five 
or  six  arms  of  the  delta.  Unable  to  balance  myself  any 
longer,  I  struggled  as  best  I  could  out  of  the  water  and 
rubbed  my  feet  violently,  until  slowly,  and  with  intense 
pain,  they  came  back  to  life. 

It  is  curious  how  a  little  sense  of  humor  helps  on  such 
occasions.  To  an  onlooker  not  suffering  as  we  were,  the 
sight  of  our  party  crossing  that  dreadful  delta  would  have 
been  curious.  The  expression  of  disgust  on  all  my  men's 
faces,  not  to  speak  of  my  own,  could  not  but  have  caused 
merriment.  We  carried  our  foot-gear  on  our  shoulders; 
we  struggled,  stumbled,  and  splashed  in  the  greenish 
water,  and  now  one,  then  another,  fell  helpless  through 
frost-bite  on  some  island  or  other,  until  we  were  all  dis- 
abled, and  still  only  half-way  through.  In  spite  of  our 
condition,  worn  out  as  we  were,  the  soles  and  sides  of 
our  feet  badly  cut  and  bleeding,  my  men,  so  sulky  at 
having  been  firmly  balked  in  their  wishes,  became  quite 
good  -  natured  and  amusing  when  I  chaffed  them  over 

146 


WELL-EARNED   COMFORT 

their  present  troubles,  and  they  saw  that  I  was  in  the 
same  plight.  After  endless  rubbing,  we  restored  a  certain 
amount  of  circulation  to  our  lower  limbs,  and  proceeded 
to  cross  the  next  six  arms  of  the  delta.  When,  after  an 
hour  or  longer  of  suffering,  we  were  at  last  able  to  put  on 
our  foot-gear,  we  felt  the  happiness  which  comes  from  the 
knowledge  of  difficulties  overcome.  Never  can  I  forget 
the  great  joy  arising  from  what  may  seem  a  small  com- 
fort— a  warm  pair  of  socks !  As  I  write  these  lines  I  live 
over  again  the  particular  pleasure  of  gently  drawing 
them  on,  and  it  is  impressed  forever  on  my  mind  as  a 
fitting  reward  for  the  hardships  I  had  put  up  with. 

We  pitched  our  tents  in  a  sheltered  narrow  valley  to 
the  northwest  of  the  large  basin.  Altitude,  15,400  feet. 
Thermometer — minimum,  24°;  maximum,  51°. 


CHAPTER    XXII 

WANT  OF  FffEL  —  COOKING  UNDER  DIFFICULTY  —  MANSING  LOST  AND 
FOUND  —  SAVED  FROM  SUMMARY  JUSTICE  —  TIBETAN  VISITORS  — WE 
PURCHASE  SHEEP — THE  SNOW-LINE — COLD  STREAMS — THE  PETRIFIED 
CHAP  ATI  AND  HUMAN  HAND 

ONE  of  the  main  drawbacks  of  travelling  at  these  great 
altitudes  was  the  want  of  vegetable  fuel.  There  was  not 
a  tree,  not  a  shrub  to  be  seen  near  our  camp.  Nature 

*  V  * 

wore  her  most  desolate  and  barren  look.  Failing  wood, 
my  men  dispersed  to  collect  and  bring  in  the  dry  dung  of 
yak,  pony,  and  sheep  to  serve  as  fuel.  Kindling  this  was 
no  easy  matter;  box  after  box  of  matches  was  quickly 
used,  and  our  collective  lung  power  severely  drawn  upon 
in  fanning  the  unwilling  sparks  into  a  flame  only  a  few 
inches  high.  Upon  this  meagre  fire  we  attempted  to 
cook  our  food  and  boil  our  water  (a  trying  process  at 
such  an  altitude),  keeping  our  own  circulation  fairly 
normal  by  constantly  required  efforts.  The  cuisine  that 
night  was  not  of  the  usual  excellence,  and  did  but  lit- 
tle credit  to  the  cook.  We  had  to  eat  everything  half 
cooked,  or,  to  be  accurate,  almost  altogether  uncooked. 
The  night  was  a  bitterly  cold  one,  with  a  heavy  fall  of 
snow.  When  we  rose  in  the  morning  it  lay  quite  two 
feet  deep  around  us,  and  the  glare  was  painful  to  the 
eyes.  I  mustered  my  men.  Mansing  was  missing.  He 
had  not  arrived  the  previous  night,  and  there  was  no 
sign  of  the  man  I  had  sent  in  search  of  him.  I  was  anx- 
ious not  only  from  my  personal  interest  in  his  load  (the 
fellow  carried  a  load  of  flour,  salt,  pepper,  and  five  pounds 

148 


CAMPING  IN   SNOW 


MANSING    LOST    AND    FOUND 

of  butter),  but  I  was  afraid  that  the  poor  leper  might  him- 
self have  been  washed  away  in  one  of  the  dangerous 
streams.  Even  if  this  fear  were  groundless,  he  must,  I 
felt,  have  suffered  terribly  from  the  cold,  with  no  shelter 
and  no  fire.  Bijesing,  who  had  gone  in  search  of  him,  had 
eaten  some  food  before  starting,  and  had  taken  blankets 
with  him  in  case  he  could  not  return  to  camp  during  the 
night. 

It  was  long  after  sunrise  when,  with  the  aid  of  my  tele- 
scope, I  discovered  the  two  men  coming  towards  us.  They 
arrived  an  hour  or  so  later.  Mansing  had  been  found 
sound  asleep,  several  miles  back,  lying  by  the  side  of  the 
empty  butter-pot,  the  contents  of  which  he  had  devoured. 
The  discovery  of  this  misdeed  caused  the  greatest  indigna- 
tion in  camp,  for  fatty  matter  and  butter  were  much  cher- 
ished by  the  natives,  as  being  warmth-producing,  when 
going  over  these  cold  passes.  He  was  nearly  the  victim 
of  summary  justice  at  the  hands  of  my  angry  men,  and  it 
was  only  with  trouble  that  I  rescued  him  from  their 
clutches.  To  prevent  a  recurrence  of  the  offence,  I  ordered 
the  culprit  to  carry  in  future  a  heavy  load  of  photographic 
plates  and  instruments,  which  I  thought  would  not  prove 
quite  so  appetizing. 

Before  starting  I  took  my  usual  bath  in  the  cold  stream 
and  rubbed  myself  all  over  with  snow.  I  found  this  very 
invigorating,  and  when  the  reaction  came  I  experienced 
a  delightful  glow  of  warmth,  notwithstanding  the  thin 
clothes  I  was  wearing. 

While  we  were  camping,  a  flock  of  some  six  hundred 
sheep  appeared,  and  with  them  some  Tibetans.  As  I 
had  put  up  my  Tibetan  tent,  they  made  for  it,  expecting 
to  find  some  of  their  own  countrymen,  and  their  embar- 
rassment was  amusing  when  they  found  themselves  face 
to  face  with  Dr.  Wilson  and  myself.  Hurriedly  removing. 

149 


IN   THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

their  fur  caps,  they  laid  them  upon  the  ground  and  made 
a  comical  jerky  courtesy,  as  if  their  heads  and  knees  moved 
by  means  of  a  spring.  They  put  out  their  tongues  full 
length  and  kept  them  so  until  I  made  signs  that  they 
could  draw  them  back,  as  I  wanted  them  to  answer  some 
questions.  This  unexpected  meeting  with  us  frightened 
them  greatly ;  they  were  trembling  all  over  with  fear,  and 
after  getting  as  much  information  out  of  them  as  they 
seemed  to  possess  I  took  advantage  of  the  opportunity 
to  buy  some  of  their  fattest  sheep.  When  the  money  was 
paid  there  was  a  further  display  of  furred  tongues,  and 
more  grand  salaams  ere  they  departed,  while  all  hands  On 
our  side  were  busy  trying  to  prevent  our  newly  purchased 
animals  from  rejoining  the  flock  moving  away  from  us. 
On  our  next  march  these  animals  proved  a  great  trouble, 
and  we  had  to  drag  them  the  greater  part  of  the  way. 
Kachi,  who  had  been  intrusted  with  a  very  recalcitrant 
and  strong  beast,  which  I  had  specially  promised  my  men 
for  their  dinner  if  they  made  a  long  march  that  day,  found 
himself  discomfited  when  he  saw  that  the  sheep  had  freed 
its  head  from  the  cord  with  which  he  was  dragging  it,  and 
was  cantering  away  full  speed  in  the  opposite  direction. 
Now  it  is  well  known  that  at  considerable  altitudes  run- 
ning is  a  very  painful  operation  for  human  beings,  the 
rarefied  air  making  the  effect  of  such  exertion  almost  suf- 
focating. Yet  Kachi,  having  overcome  his  first  surprise, 
was  soon  chasing  the  escaped  beast,  and,  urged  by  the 
cheers  and  shouts  of  my  other  men,  who  seemed  much 
concerned  over  this  new  calamity,  he  succeeded,  after  an 
exciting  chase,  in  capturing  it  by  its  tail,  a  feat  easier  to 
describe  than  to  accomplish,  for  Tibetan  sheep  have  very 
short,  stumpy  tails.  Kachi  fell  to  the  ground  exhaust- 
ed, but  he  held  fast  with  both  hands  to  his  capture,  and 
eventually  the  animal  was  secured  with  ropes.  This  was 

150 


THE   SNOW-LINE 

the  sort  of  minor  trouble  with  which  we  had  to  contend 
at  almost  every  turn  during  our  journey,  and,  although 
it  may  appear  trivial,  it  was  exasperating  enough  at  the 
time. 

On  fairly  undulating  ground  we  gradually  rose  to  a  pass 
15,580  feet  high ;  then  traversing  a  wide,  flat  land,  we  fol- 
lowed the  Kuti  River  with  its  high  snowy  mountains  to 
the  west  and  east.  The  snow-line  was  at  16,000  feet; 


THE  SNOW-LINE  AT    l6,OOO   FEET 

the  snow  below  this  level  melts  daily,  except  in  a  few 
shaded  places.  Red  and  white  flowers  were  still  to  be 
seen,  though  not  in  such  quantities  as  lower  down,  and 
I  saw  enamoured  couples  of  small  black  and  white  but- 
terflies.* 

*  N.B.— This  same  kind  of  butterfly  I  found  at  even  greater  elevations 
in  Tibet. 

I.— M  I51 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

After  a  while  there  was  yet  another  bitterly  cold  stream 
to  ford,  two  small  lakes  to  skirt,  three  more  deep  rivers 
to  wade,  with  cold  water  from  the  snows  up  to  our  chests  ; 
and  then  we  had  to  make  the  best  way  we  could  through  a 
lar^e  field  of  rocks  and  stones  showing  strong  indications 

O  O  O 

of  iron,  my  compasses  being  at  once  affected,  and  becom- 
ing for  a  time  quite  unreliable  owing  to  the  deviation.  A 
curious  flat,  circular  stone,  resting  on  the  top  of  others, 
was  pointed  out  to  me  as  a  wonder ;  the  accepted  legend 
of  the  Shokas  being  that,  centuries  ago,  one  of  their  coun- 
trymen halted  by  the  side  of  this  rock,  and  having  baked 
a  chapati,  laid  it  upon  the  rock,  proceeding  to  make 
others,  when  to  his  great  astonishment,  on  raising  his 
hand  to  take  his  first  chapati,  he  found  it  had  turned 
into  solid  stone,  and  had  furthermore  assumed  a;icrantic 

O    O 

proportions.  A  few  feet  farther  on  I  was  pointed  out  an- 
other wonder,  a  great  human  hand  (as  the  Tibetans  and 
Shokas  call  it),  which  is  supposed  to  have  belonged  to 
the  maker  of  the  chapati.  Not  being  satisfied  with  his 
first  experience,  he  laid  his  hand  on  the  rock,  and  there 
it  remained,  petrified,  and,  in  this  case  also,  increas- 
ing tenfold  in  size.  I  could  see,  with  some  stretch  of 
the  imagination,  a  certain  resemblance  to  an  enormous 
human  hand,  but  the  thing  required  more  faith  than 
observation. 

Mile  after  mile  we  marched  over  sharp  stones,  wading 
through  a  second  troublesome  delta  of  eight  arms  fully  a 
mile  in  width,  across  a  flat  basin  of  pointed  pebbles  and 
stones,  until  at  last,  to  our  great  comfort,  we  came  to 
smooth  grass-land,  a  soothing  comfort  to  one's  torn  feet. 

Here  the  Kuti  River  ran  through  a  large  basin,  not 
dissimilar  to  the  one  near  which  we  had  camped  the  night 
before,  having  also  the  appearance  of  lake  formation,  with 
high  perpendicular  rocks  on  the  left,  which  gave  one  the 

152 


THE    LAST   OBSTACLE 

impression  of  a  vast  wall  —  a  rugged  and  forbidding 
barrier.  Proceeding  northwest  the  basin  became  wider 
and  the  Kuti  River  turned  to  the  northwest,  while  the 
Mangshan  River,  descending  from  the  east,  joined  the 
first  stream  in  the  centre  of  the  basin.  In  crossing  the 
numerous  branches  of  the  two  rivers  we  again  expe- 
rienced, with  almost  accentuated  discomfort,  the  trials  and 
weariness  of  the  preceding  day.  The  water  was  colder 
than  ever,  our  feet  were  by  this  time  in  a  dreadful  condi- 
tion, cut  and  bleeding,  because  it  was  constantly  necessary 
to  walk  barefooted.  Aching  and  benumbed,  we  stumbled 
on,  in  and  out  of  water,  always,  it  seemed,  encountering 
sharp  small  stones.  For  us  there  could  be  no  turning 
back,  however;  the  pain  had  to  be  borne  before  the  march 
was  finished,  and  we  won  our  camping-ground  at  last  un- 
der the  lee  of  the  high  chain  of  mountains  to  the  north 
of  us  and  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  Mangshan  River. 
Directly  in  front  stood  the  final  obstacle,  the  stupendous 
backbone  of  the  Himahlyas ;  once  past  this  I  should  be 
on  that  high  Tibetan  plateau  so  accurately  and  pictu- 
resquely called  "  the  roof  of  the  world." 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

THE   SCOUTS   RETURN— A   SMALL     EXPLORING    PARTY  —  THE   MANGSHAN 

GLACIER 

FROM  Kuti  I  had  despatched  a  sturdy  Shoka,  named 
Nattoo,  to  ascertain  whether  it  was  possible  to  cross  the 
chain  over  the  high  Mangshan  Pass,  as  in  this  case  I 
should  be  enabled  to  get  many  marches  into  Tibet  by  the 
jungle  without  fear  of  being  detected.  I  should  thus  get 
behind  the  force  of  soldiers  which  I  was  informed  the 
Jong  Pen  of  Taklakot  had  concentrated  at  the  Lippu  Pass 
to  prevent  my  entering  the  country,  and  before  they  could 
have  time  to  discover  my  whereabouts  I  should  be  too  far 
ahead  for  them  to  find  me.  Nattoo  arrived  in  camp  al- 
most simultaneously  with  ourselves  and  had  a  long  tale  of 
woe  to  relate.  He  had  been  half-way  up  the  mountain. 
The  snow  was  deep,  and  there  were  huge  and  treacherous 
cracks  in  the  ice.  As  he  was  on  his  way  up,  an  avalanche 
had  fallen,  and  it  was  merely  by  the  skin  of  his  teeth  that 
he  had  escaped  with  his  life.  This  was  to  him  an  evil 
omen,  and  he  had  turned  back  without  reaching  the  sum- 
mit of  the  pass.  He  seemed  scared  and  worn  out,  and 
declared  that  it  was  impossible  for  us  to  proceed  that  way. 
Unfortunately  the  thrilling  account  of  the  Kutial's  mis- 
fortunes had  a  depressing  effect  on  my  men.  What  with 
the  intense  cold,  the  fatigue  of  carrying  heavy  loads  at 
high  elevations  over  such  rough  country,  and  the  fearful 
rivers  which  they  dreaded,  and  so  many  of  which  we  had 
crossed,  my  carriers  became  absolutely  demoralized  at  the 


THE   MANGSHAN   GLACIER 


CAMPING   AT    16,150   FEET 

thought  of  new  hardships  ahead,  all  the  more  when  I  as- 
sured them  that  I  did  not  believe  Nattoo,  and  that  1  should 
go  and  see  for  myself. 

It  was  4.30  in  the  afternoon,  and  therefore  some  time 
before  sunset.  There  would  be  moonlight.  I  had  on 

o 

that  day  marched  eight  miles,*  and  though  the  soles  of 
my  feet  were  cut  and  sore  I  was  not  really  tired.  Our 
camp  was  at  an  elevation  of  1 6, 1 50  feet,  a  pretty  respect- 
able altitude,  considering  that  the  highest  mountain  in 
Europe  is  only  15,781  feet.  Dr.  Wilson  insisted  on  ac- 
companying me  to  the  top,  and  Kachi  Ram  and  a  Rongba 
coolie  volunteered  to  come  as  well.  Bijesing,  the  Johari, 
got  on  his  feet  after  some  persuasion,  and  that  completed 
our  little  exploration  party.  Chanden  Sing,  who  was  really 
the  only  man  I  could  trust,  was  left  in  charge  of  the  camp, 
with  strict  orders  to  punish  severely  any  one  who  might 
attempt  to  turn  back  during  my  absence. 

We  set  out  almost  immediately  after  reaching  camp, 
following  up-stream  the  course  of  the  Mangshan  River, 
which  is  boxed  in  between  high  cliffs,  those  south  of  it 
running  in  a  direction  of  100°  (b.  m.),  those  to  the  north 
converging  to  130°,  the  two  ranges  eventually  meeting  in 
the  glacier  at  the  foot  of  Mangshan,  about  three  miles 
east-east-southeast  of  our  camp.  There  was  no  track, 
and  the  walking  was  extremely  difficult  and  troublesome, 
over  large  slippery  stones,  between  which  one's  feet  con- 
stantly slipped  and  got  jammed,  straining  and  injuring 
.one's  ankles.  Little  trusting  my  followers,  who  seemed  on 
the  verge  of  mutiny,  I  did  not  care  to  leave  behind  in  camp 
the  heavy  load  of  silver  rupees  (R.  800)  sewn  in  my  coat — 
which,  by-the-way,  I  always  carried  on  my  person — as  well 

*  It  must  be  remembered  that  at  high  elevations  the  exertion  of  walking 
eight  miles  would  be  equivalent  to  that  of  marching  about  twice  the  dis- 
tance at  much  lower  altitudes. 

155 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

as  my  rifle,  two  compasses  (prismatic  and  luminous),  two 
aneroids,  one  half-chronometer  and  another  watch,  and 
some  thirty  cartridges.  The  combined  weight  of  these 
articles  was  considerable,*  and  I  felt  it  especially  during 
the  first  days  of  my  march.  On  this  particular  afternoon 
it  was  almost  too  much  for  my  strength.  However,  one 
gets  accustomed  to  most  things,  and  after  a  while  I  felt 
comparatively  little  discomfort  in  marching  under  it.  I 
persisted  in  thus  weighting  myself  simply  to  be  on  the  safe 
side,  so  as  to  be  always  prepared  in  case  my  men  revolted 
or  abandoned  me. 

We  proceeded  up  and  down  the  series  of  hillocks,  and 
in  and  out  of  the  innumerable  channels  that  the  melting 
snow  and  ice  had,  with  the  aid  of  centuries,  cut  deep  into 
the  mass  of  rolling  stones.  At  the  point  where  the  two 
ranges  met  there  stood  before  us  the  magnificent  pale- 
green  ice-terraces  of  the  Mangshan  glacier,  surmounted 
by  extensive  snow-fields  winding  their  way  to  the  summit 
of  the  mountain  range.  Clouds  enveloped  the  higher 
peaks.  The  clear  Alpine  ice  showed  vertical  streaks, 
especially  in  the  lower  part  of  the  glacier,  where  it  was 
granulated  to  a  certain  extent.  The  base,  the  sides,  and 
top  being  covered  with  a  thick  coat  of  fresh  snow,  and  my 
time  being  very  limited,  I  was  unable  to  make  careful  in- 
vestigations to  ascertain  the  recent  movement  and  oscil- 
lations of  this  glacier.  Judging  by  the  nature  of  the  stony 
tracts  we  had  passed  over,  and  also  by  the  mounds,  similar 
to  those  of  a  terminal  moraine,  which  increased  as  we  ap- 
proached the  glacier  and  its  snow-covered  fringe,  I  con- 
cluded that  the  glacier  must  have  retreated  considerably. 
The  rocks  and  stones,  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  were 
shiny  and  slippery,  which  I  attributed  to  the  friction  of 

*  See  Appendix.     Letter  by  Dr.  H.  Wilson. 
I56 


NATURAL    RESERVOIRS 

the  ice,  and  where  the  ice  had  extended  over  gravel  this 
was  greatly  disturbed  and  scarred  by  innumerable  chan- 
nels, due,  no  doubt,  to  the  mighty  force  of  the  moving 
ice,  besides  the  constant  action  of  melting  snows  during 
the  summer.  The  slopes  of  the  mountains  on  the  north 
showed  no  indication  of  having  been  disturbed,  but  the 
range  on  the  southern  side  had  all  the  appearance  of  hav- 
ing been  cut  and  excavated  by  the  ice.  Probably  the 
large  basins  which  I  had  crossed  on  my  way  from  Kuti, 
and  even  the  last  one,  facing  our  camp,  were,  after  all, 
reservoirs  formed  by  ancient  moraines  with  alluvial  de- 
posits. 

157 


CHAPTER   XXIV 

SNOW  AND  TROUBLESOME  DEBRIS— THE  DOCTOR'S  SUFFERINGS — KACHI 
DISABLED — FURTHER  TRIALS — A  WEIRD  APPARITION — DELIRIUM — 
ALL  SAFE — THE  DESCENT 

THE  Mangshan  River  rises  from  this  glacier,  but  we 
left  the  glacier  (17,800  feet)  to  the  right,  and,  turning 
sharply  northward,  began  our  ascent  towards  the  pass. 
To  gaze  upon  the  incline  before  us  was  alone  sufficient  to 
deter  one  from  attempting  to  climb  it,  had  one  a  choice ; 
in  addition  to  this,  the  snow  we  struggled  over  was  so  soft 

oo 

and  deep  that  we  sank  into  it  up  to  our  waists.  Occasion- 
ally the  snow  alternated  with  patches  of  loose  debris  and 
rotten  rock,  on  which  we  were  no  better  off;  in  fact,  the 
fatigue  of  progressing  over  them  was  simply  overpowering. 
Having  climbed  up  half  a  dozen  steps  among  the  loose, 
cutting  stones,  we  felt  ourselves  sliding  back  to  almost 
our  original  point  of  departure,  followed  by  a  small  ava- 
lanche of  shifting  material  that  only  stopped  when  it  got 
to  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 

At  1 9,000  feet  we  were  for  a  considerable  distance  on  soft 
snow,  covering  an  ice-field  with  deep  crevasses  and  cracks 
in  it.  We  had  to  feel  our  way  with  great  caution,  partic- 
ularly as  there  was  only  the  light  of  the  moon  to  depend 
upon. 

Fortunately,  as  we  rose  higher,  there  were  no  more 
crevasses,  but  I  began  to  feel  a  curious  exhaustion  that  I 
had  never  experienced  before.  At  sunset  the  thermometer 
which  Kachi  carried  for  me  had  descended  forty  degrees 
within  a  few  minutes,  and  the  sudden  change  in  the  tem- 

158 


THE    DOCTOR   AND    KACHI    DISABLED 

perature  seemed  to  affect  us  all  more  or  less ;  but  we  went 
on,  with  the  exception  of  Bijesing,  who  was  seized  with 
mountain  sickness  so  violently  that  he  was  unable  to  pro- 
ceed. The  doctor,  too,  a  man  of  powerful  build,  was 
suffering  considerably.  His  legs,  he  said,  had  become 
like  lead,  and  each  seemed  to  weigh  a  ton.  The  effort  of 
lifting,  or  even  moving,  them  required  all  his  energy.  Al- 
though he  was  terribly  blown  and  gasping  for  breath,  yet 
he  would  not  give  in,  and  he  struggled  on  bravely  until 
we  reached  an  altitude  of  20,500  feet.  Here  he  was  seized 
with  such  exhaustion  and  pain  that  he  was  unable  to  pro- 
ceed. Kachi  Ram,  the  Rongba,  and  I  went  ahead,  but  we 
also  were  suffering,  Kachi  complaining  of  violent  beating 
in  his  temples  and  loud  buzzing  in  his  ears.  He  also 
gasped  and  staggered  dangerously,  threatening  to  collapse 
at  any  moment.  At  21,000  feet  he  fell  flat  on  the  snow. 
He  was  instantly  asleep,  breathing  heavily  and  snoring 
raspingly.  His  hands  and  feet  were  icy  cold,  and  I  rubbed 
them.  But  what  caused  me  more  anxiety  than  anything 
was  the  irregular  beating  and  throbbing  of  his  heart.  I 
wrapped  him  up  in  his  blanket  and  my  waterproof,  and, 
having  seen  to  his  general  comfort,  I  shouted  to  the  doctor, 
telling  him  what  had  happened,  and  that  I  was  going  to 
push  on  as  much  higher  as  I  could  stand,  the  Rongba 
being  now  the  only  one  of  the  party  who  was  able  to 
keep  up. 

A  thick  mist  came  on  and  enveloped  us,  which  con- 
siderably added  to  our  trials.  Our  efforts  to  get  on  after 
we  left  Kachi  at  21,000  feet  were  desperate,  our  lungs  in 
convulsion  as  if  about  to  burst,  our  pulses  hastened,  our 
hearts  throbbing  (mine  being  ordinarily  very  regular)  as  if 
they  would  beat  themselves  out  of  our  bodies.  Exhausted, 
and  seized  by  irresistible  drowsiness,  the  Rongba  and  I 
nevertheless  at  last  reached  the  top.  It  was  a  satisfaction 

'59 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

to  have  got  there,  to  have  reached  such  an  altitude,  al- 
though I  had  long  realized  the  impossibility  of  getting  my 
men  over  by  this  way.  It  served  me  also  to  ascertain  the 
amount  of  snow  on  the  other  side  of  the  range,  which,  when 
the  fog  lifted  somewhat,  I  found  to  be  greater  on  the 
northern  slope  than  on  the  southern.  Although  almost 
fainting  with  fatigue,  I  registered  my  observations.  The 
altitude  was  22,000  feet,  the  hour  n  P.M.,  and  there  was 
a  strong,  cutting  northeast  wind.  I  had  stupidly  forgotten 
to  take  my  thermometer  out  of  Kachi's  pocket  when  I 
left  him,  and  was  unable  to  register  the  temperature,  but 
the  cold  was  intense.  The  stars  were  extraordinarily 
brilliant  and  the  moon  shone  bright  fora  while  over  the 
panorama  around  me,  and,  though  it  was  a  view  of  utter 
desolation,  it  had  nevertheless  a  curious,  indescribable 
fascination.  Below  me,  to  the  south,  were  mountainous 
masses  buried  in  snow,  and  to  the  southwest  and  north- 
east were  peaks  even  higher  than  the  one  on  which  I 
stood.  To  the  north  stretched  the  immense,  dreary  Tib- 
etan plateau  with  undulations  and  intricate  hill  ranges, 
beyond  which  a  high  mountain  range  with  snow-peaks 
could  just  be  perceived  in  the  distance.  I  could  see  very 
little  snow  near  by,  except  on  the  northern  slope  of  the 
range  I  was  standing  on,  and  on  the  hill-tops  which  dotted 
the  plateau. 

I  had  barely  taken  it  in,  barely  realized  the  wonder  of 
nature  asleep,  when  the  mist  again  rose  before  me  and  I 
saw  a  gigantic  phantom  rising  out  of.it.  It  stood  in  the 
centre  of  a  luminous  circle,  a  tall,  dark  figure  in  the  folds 
of  an  enormous  veil  of  mist.  The  effect  was  overwhelm- 
ing, and  it  was  only  after  some  moments  that  1  realized 
that  the  spectre  wore  my  features,  was  a  liquid  presenta- 
tion of  my  own  proportions  colossally  enlarged  ;  that  I 
stood  in  the  centre  of  a  lunar  rainbow,  and  that  I  was 

160 


OVERCOME    IN    THE    SNOW 

gazing  on  the  reflection  of  myself  in  the  mist.  As  I  moved 
my  arms,  my  body,  or  my  head,  the  ghostlike  figure 
moved,  and  I  felt  myself  irresistibly  changing  my  postures 
—oddly  and  nervously  at  first,  then  with  an  awakening 
sense  of  the  ridiculous  in  my  actions — so  as  to  make  my 
image  change  and  do  as  I  did.  I  felt  like  a  child  placed 
for  the  first  time  in  front  of  a  mirror. 

The  colored  plate  given  in  this  book  represents  a  solar 
spectre  with  circular  rainbow  which  I  saw  later  on  at  a 
comparatively  low  altitude;  the  lunar  effect  differed  from 
this  in  that  the  colors  of  the  rainbow  were  but  faintly  dis- 
tinguishable. 

The  Rongba  had  fallen  exhausted,  and  I  felt  so  faint 
with  the  awful  pressure  on  my  lungs  that,  despite  all  my 
efforts  to  resist  it,  I  collapsed  on  the  snow.  The  coolie 
and  I,  shivering  pitifully,  shared  the  same  blanket  for 
additional  warmth.  Both  of  us  were  seized  with  irresisti- 
ble drowsiness,  as  if  we  had  taken  a  strong  narcotic.  I 
fought  hard  against  it,  for  I  well  knew  that  if  my  eyelids 
once  closed  they  would  almost  certainly  remain  so  for- 
ever. I  called  to  the  Rongba.  He  was  fast  asleep.  I 
summoned  up  my  last  atom  of  vitality  to  keep  my  eyes 
open,  but  the  wind  blew  hard  and  biting,  with  a  hissing 
noise.  How  that  hiss  still  sounds  in  my  ears!  It  seemed 
like  the  whisper  of  death.  The  Rongba,  crouched  with 
teeth  chattering,  was  moaning,  and  his  sudden  shudders 
bespoke  great  pain.  It  seemed  only  common  charity  to 
let  him  have  the  blanket,  which  was  in  any  case  too  small 
for  both,  so  I  wrapped  it  tightly  round  his  head  and  body. 
He  was  doubled  up  with  his  chin  on  his  knees.  This 
small  exertion  was  quite  sufficient  to  make  me  lose  the 
tug-of-war  in  which  I  was  pulling  against  nature.  Just 
like  the  subject  who,  under  hypnotic  influence,  feels  his 
own  will  and  power  suddenly  going  from  him,  so  I  felt  the 

161 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

entire  hopelessness  of  further  struggle  against  the  super- 
natural forces  I  was  contending  with.  Falling  backward 
on  the  snow,  I  made  a  last  desperate  effort  to  gaze  at 
the  glittering  stars  .  .  .  my  sight  became  dim  and  ob- 
scured. .  .  . 

For  how  long  this  semiconsciousness  lasted  I  do  not 
know.  "God!  how  ghastly!  Doctor!  Kachi!"  I  tried 
to  articulate.  My  voice  seemed  choked  in  my  throat. 
Was  what  I  saw  before  me  real  ?  The  two  men,  as  if 
frozen  to  death  by  the  side  of  each  other,  seemed  lying  on 
that  vast  white  sheet  of  snow,  motionless  as  statues  of  ice. 
In  my  dream  I  attempted  to  raise  them.  They  were  quite 
rigid.  I  knelt  beside  them,  calling  them  and  frantically 
striving  to  bring  them  back  to  consciousness  and  life. 
Bewildered,  I  turned  round  to  look  for  Bijesing,  and,  as  I 
did  so,  all  sense  of  vitality  seemed  to  freeze  within  me.  I 
saw  myself  enclosed  in  a  quickly  contracting  tomb  of 
transparent  ice.  It  was  easy  to  realize  that  I  too  would 
shortly  be  nothing  but  a  solid  block  of  ice,  like  my  com- 
panions. My  legs,  my  arms  were  already  congealed.  Hor- 
ror-stricken as  I  was  at  the  approach  of  such  a  hopeless, 
ghastly  death,  my  sensations  were  accompanied  by  a  lan- 
guor and  lassitude  indescribable  but  far  from  unpleasant. 
To  some  extent  thought  or  wonderment  was  still  alive. 
Should  I  dwindle  painlessly  away,  preferring  rest  and 
peace  to  effort,  or  should  I  make  a  last  struggle  to  save 
myself?  The  ice  seemed  to  close  in  more  and  more  every 
moment.  I  was  choking. 

I  tried  to  scream,  to  force  myself  through  the  suffocat- 
ing weight  on  me.  I  gave  a  violent  plunge,  and  then 
everything  had  vanished — the  frozen  Kachi,  the  doctor, 
the  transparent  tomb!  Nothingness! 

At  last  I  was  able  to  open  my  eyes,  which  ached  as  if 
needles  had  been  stuck  into  them.  It  was  snowing  hard. 

162 


Lithographed  fty  f.  A.  BroeUuiut,  Ltiptig  (Germany/ 

THE  SPECTRE  AND  CIBCULAB  BAIN  BOW. 


A   GHASTLY    NIGHTMARE 

I  had  temporarily  lost  the  use  of  my  legs  and  fingers. 
They  were  frozen.  So  violent  was  the  shock  of  realizing 
how  very  near  death  I  had  really  been  that  in  waking  up 
from  the  ghastly  nightmare  I  became  acutely  alive  to  the 
full  importance  of  instantly  making  my  way  down  to  a 
lower  level.  I  was  already  covered  with  a  layer  of  snow, 
and  I  suppose  it  was  the  frigid  pressure  on  my  forehead 


"I  ROUSED  THE  RONGBA  " 

that  caused  the  dream.  It  is,  however,  probable  that,  had 
it  not  been  for  the  hideous  vision  that  shook  my  nerves 
free  of  paralyzing  torpor,  I  should  never  have  awakened 
from  that  spell-bound  silence. 

I  sat  up  with  difficulty,  and,  by  rubbing  and  beating 
them,  slowly  regained  the  use  of  my  lower  limbs.  I 
roused  the  Rongba,  rubbed  him,  and  shook  him  till  he 
was  able  to  move.  We  began  our  descent. 

No  doubt  the  satisfaction  of  going  up  high  mountains  is 
very  great;  but  can  it  be  compared  to  that  of  coming  down  ? 

163 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Descending  was  dangerous,  but  not  wearisome.  The 
incline  being  extremely  steep,  we  took  gigantic  strides  on 
the  snow,  and  when  we  came  to  patches  of  debris  we  slid 
ten  or  fifteen  feet  each  step  amidst  a  deafening  roar  from 
the  huge  mass  of  loose  stones  set  in  motion  by  our  de- 
scent. 

"  Hark!"  I  said  to  the  Rongba;  "what  is  that?" 

We  waited  till  all  was  silence,  and  with  hands  up  to 
our  ears  listened  attentively.  It  was  still  snowing. 

"Ao,ao,aof  Jaldiao!  Tumka  hatte?"  (Come,  come, 
come!  Come  quickly!  Where  are  you?)  cried  a  faint, 
distressed  voice  from  far  down  below. 

We  quickened  our  pace ;  having  hardly  any  control 
•over  our  legs,  our  descent  was  precipitous.  The  snow- 
fall ceased  and  we  became  enveloped  in  a  thick  mist, 
which  pierced  into  our  very  bones. 

Guided  by  the  anxious  cries  of  the  doctor,  whose  voice 
we  recognized,  we  continued  our  breakneck  journey  down- 
ward. The  cries  got  more  and  more  distinct,  and  at  last, 
to  my  great  joy,  we  came  face  to  face  with  Wilson,  who, 
thank  Heaven,  was  alive  but  almost  helpless,  as  he  said 
his  legs  were  still  like  lead,  and  it  was  all  he  could  do  to 
move  them. 

Owing  to  his  anxiety  about  us,  he  had  been  shouting 
for  a  long  time,  and,  getting  no  answer,  he  became  very 
uneasy,  all  the  more  so  as  he  found  he  could  in  no  way 
•come  to  our  help.  He  had  quite  given  us  up  for  lost. 

We  looked  for  and  found  Kachi.  He  had  slept  like  a 
top,  curled  up  in  his  warm  blanket  and  my  overcoat,  and 
was  now  quite  refreshed;  so,  all  united  again,  we  continued 
our  race  downward,  exchanging  our  experiences  and  sen- 
sations. We  had  no  very  serious  mishaps,  and  life  and 
strength  gradually  came  back  to  us  again  when  we  de- 
scended to  lower  elevations.  The  ascent  from  the  glacier 

164 


RETURN    TO    CAMP 

at  the  bottom  of  the  mountain  to  the  summit  occupied 
four  and  a  half  hours ;  the  precipitous  descent,  without 
counting  stoppages,  only  the  ninth  part  of  that  time. 

Over  the  same  trying  stony  valley  we  reached  camp 
during  the  early  hours  of  the  morning.  The  distance 
from  camp  to  the  altitude  reached  and  back  was  over  ten 
miles ;  therefore,  during  the  twenty-four  hours  I  had  alto- 
gether gone  eighteen  miles  (quite  a  record  at  such  great 
altitudes).  I  may  here  also  remark  that,  since  breakfast  at 
six  o'clock  the  previous  morning,  I  had  taken  no  food  of 
any  kind,  thus  making  an  interval  of  twenty-three  hours 
between  one  meal  and  the  next.  The  anxiety  of  my  men 
in  camp  was  intense.  They  had  lost  all  hope  of  seeing 
us  again,  and  they  were  quite  reassured  when  I  told  them 
that  we  would  proceed  later  in  the  morning  by  the  Lum- 
piya  Pass,  which  was  believed  to  be  far  easier. 

In  no  time  they  had  lighted  a  fire  of  dung,  and  after 
having  had  (at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning)  a  handsome 
feed  of  rice,  chapatis,  extract  of  meat,  and  strengthen- 
ing emergency  food,  we  felt  we  were  entitled  to  a  well- 
deserved  rest. 

i. — N  165 


CHAPTER   XXV 

THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  KUTI  RIVER— THE  LUMPIVA  GLACIER— THE 
SUMMIT  OF  THE  RANGE — BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  TIBET — RUBSO  FROZKN 
ALMOST  TO  DEATH —  THE  LUMPIYA  PASS  —  TWO  COOLIES  IN  DIS- 
TRESS 

AT  9  A.M.  we  were  ready  again  to  start.  The  ther- 
mometer registered  40°  inside  the  tent,  and  the  minimum 
temperature  outside  during  the  night  had  been  14°.  We 
followed  the  Kuti  River  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain- 
range,  travelling  in  a  direction  of  298°  (b.  m.).  On  round- 
ing a  prominent  headland,  where  the  Kuti  River  flows 
through  a  narrow  passage,  we  saw  facing  us  on  a  mound 
fourteen  stone  pillars  and  pyramids  with  white  stones  on 
them  and  the  customary  flying  prayers  of  cloth.  It  is 
from  this  point  that  the  ascent  to  the  Lumpiya  Pass 
begins. 

There  are  two  sources  of  the  Kuti  Yangti,  joining  in  a 
large  basin ;  one  comes  from  two  extensive  glaciers  to  the 
southwest,  the  other  from  a  glacier  directly  under  the 
Lumpiya  Pass.  The  river  at  the  junction  of  the  two 
sources  is  not  more  than  six  yards  across.  Our  route 
gradually  ascended,  going  northwest  first,  then  swinging 
away  to  northeast  until  we  attained  an  elevation  of  17,350 
feet  on  a  flat  basin  covered  with  deep  snow.  So  far  we 
had  proceeded  with  no  very  great  trouble  or  fatigue,  but 
matters  suddenly  altered  for  the  worse.  Each  coolie  in 
the  long  silent  row  at  the  head  of  which  I  marched  sank 
in  the  snow  up  to  his  knees,  often  up  to  his  waist.  They 
formed,  undoubtedly,  a  picturesque  sight  in  this  lonely 

1 66 


M 
X 


. 


THE    LUMPIYA    GLACIER 

region,  the  only  bit  of  life  in  the  picture,  the  white  frozen 
sheet  of  snow  throwing  into  strong  contrast  their  faces 
wrapped  tightly  round  with  white  turbans.  Some  wore 
fur  caps  with  ear-flaps ;  all  had  long  sheepskin  coats  and 
high  boots  of  skins;  many  used  snow  spectacles;  and  as 
this  procession,  silent  and  grave,  with  loads  on  their 
backs,  struggled  higher  and  higher  with  piteous  pant- 
ing, you  speculated  apprehensively  as  to  how  many  of 
them  would  ever  return.  Moving  cautiously  to  avoid 
the  many  treacherous  cracks,  I  made  my  way  ahead  with 
considerable  trouble  to  a  spot  six  hundred  feet  higher, 
where  I  halted  for  a  while  on  a  rocky  island  fairly  clear 
of  snow.  As  coolie  after  coolie  arrived,  breathing  con- 
vulsively, he  dropped  his  load  and  sat  quietly  by  the  side 
of  it.  There  was  not  a  grumble,  not  a  word  of  reproach 
for  the  hard  work  they  were  made  to  endure.  Sleet  was 
falling,  and  the  wet  and  cold  increased  the  discomfort. 
There  was  now  a  very  steep  pull  before  us.  To  the  left 
we  had  a  glacier  beginning  in  a  precipitous  fall  of  ice, 
about  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  Like  the  Mangshan 
glacier,  it  was  in  horizontal,  ribbon-like  strata  of  beauti- 
fully clear  ice,  showing  no  dirt  bands.  Perpendicular 
stripes  of  a  darker  greenish  color  could  be  observed  aris- 
ing from  the  unequal  degrees  of  compactness  of  the  ice; 
the  strata  showed  almost  horizontal,  with  no  curvatures 
nor  depressions  in  any  part  of  them.  The  top,  the  base, 
and  the  sides  of  the  glacier  were  in  this  case  also  buried 
in  deep  snow. 

The  doctor  and  I  went  ahead.  In  our  anxiety  to  reach 
the  summit,  unable  to  discern  the  track,  now  covered  by 
several  feet  of  snow,  we  mistook  our  bearings,  and  with 
great  fatigue  climbed  up  an  extremely  steep  incline.  Here 
we  were  on  a  patch  of  the  troublesome  loose  debris,  on 
which  we  struggled  for  over  half  an  hour  until  we  reached 

167 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

the  top  of  the  range,  18,750  feet,  considerably  higher  than 
the  pass  itself.  Four  men  had  come  with  us,  the  others, 
to  whom  we  signalled,  bearing  more  to  the  west  by  another 
dangerous  track  skirting  the  glacier. 

The  wind  from  the  northeast  was  piercing  and  the  cold 
terrible.  Under  the  lee  of  a  large  rock  we  found  tempo- 
rary shelter,and  through  my  telescope  scanned  the  Tibetan 
plateau  spread  out  before  us.  From  this  high  eyrie  we 
obtained  a  superb  bird's-eye  view.  Huge  masses  of  snow 
covered  the  Tibetan  side  of  the  Himahlyas,  as  well  as  the 
lower  range  of  mountains  immediately  in  front  of  us,  run- 
ning almost  parallel  to  our  range.  Two  thousand  feet 
below,  between  these  two  ranges,  flowed,  in  a  wide  barren 
valley,  a  river  which  is  afterwards  called  the  Darma  Yankti 
or  Lumpiya  Yankti.  In  the  distance  a  flat  plateau,  rising 
some  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  and  resembling 
a  gigantic  embankment  of  a  railway  line,  could  be  seen 
extending  for  many  miles;  and  far  away  to  the  north  a 
chain  of  high  blue  mountains  capped  with  snow,  undoubt- 
edly the  Kangri  chain  with  the  Kelas  peaks. 

A  painful  incident  had  unfortunately  happened  to  one 
of  my  followers — poor  Rubso,  a  Christian  convert,  had 
fallen  exhausted  from  cold  and  fatigue.  He  had  been 
seized  with  cramp,  and  was  lying  in  a  semiconscious  state, 
his  teeth  chattering  and  his  features  distorted  and  livid ; 
his  eyes  were  sunken  and  lifeless,  and  he  showed  signs  of 
complete  collapse.  We  hastily  carried  him  under  the 
shelter  of  a  rock  and  rubbed  him  vigorously,  in  the  hope 
of  restoring  his  circulation.  After  more  than  half  an  hour 
of  the  greatest  anxiety  and  exertion,  to  our  intense  relief 
he  partially  recovered  and  was  able  to  proceed  slowly 
with  our  help. 

Having  climbed  the  wrong  path,  we  now  had  to  descend 
to  the  pass,  six  hundred  feet  lower.  We  made  our  way 

1 68 


A    DANGEROUS    DESCENT 

along  dangerous  rocks  and  debris.  I  was  just  clinging 
with  my  half-frozen  fingers  to  a  prominent  rock,  striving 
to  get  on  the  other  side,  when  screams  of  distress  from 
below  struck  my  ears.  Notwithstanding  the  unsafe  posi- 
tion I  was  in,  I  could  not  help  turning  my  head  to  see 
what  had  happened.  On  the  steep  incline  of  snow  two- 
coolies  with  their  respective  loads  were  sliding  at  incredi- 
ble speed.  They  eventually  reached  the  basin,  where  the 
angle  of  the  descent  being  suddenly  altered,  it  caused 
them  to  revolve  several  times  on  their  own  axes,  the  dif- 
ferent bags,  etc.,  forming  their  loads,  flying  about  and 
being  scattered  in  every  direction.  I  gave  a  sigh  of  relief 
when  I  saw  the  men  getting  up.  One  coolie  picked  up- 
one  after  the  other  the  goods  that  had  been  intrusted  to- 
him,  tied  them  together,  got  them  on  his  back,  and  began 
the  difficult  ascent  a  second  time.  The  other  was  crying 
and  moaning,  so  that  we  could  plainly  hear  him  from  our 
elevation.  He  seemed  giddy.  After  a  moment  or  two  he 
staggered,  fell  back,  and  lay  as  if  dead.  Hastening  over 
the  slippery  rocks,  and  then  down  precipitously  on  the 
loose  debris,  I  gained  the  pass,  18,150  feet.  Two  reluctant 
men  were  immediately  despatched  to  the  relief  of  the  coolie 
in  distress.  They  first  carried  his  load  up,  then  him.  After 
some  time  he  too  got  over  the  severe  shock  and  fright, 
and,  though  he  was  rather  shattered  and  aching  all  over, 
I  succeeded  in  persuading  the  man  that  nothing  was  the 
matter  with  him. 

We  then  hurried  down  the  steep  declivity  on  the  Tibetan 
side,  to  get  away  quickly  from  the  bitterly  cold,  windy 
pass.  Describing  a  wide  arc  of  a  circle,  and  then  making 
straight  down  across  several  long  snow-beds,  we  at  last 
reached  the  river  level  and  pitched  our  tents  on  snow  at 
an  altitude  of  16,900  feet.  There  was  no  wood,  no  yak  or 
pony  dung,  no  lichens,  no  moss,  and  therefore  nothing 

169 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

with  which  we  could  make  a  fire.  It  seemed  hard  upon 
my  men  that,  after  such  a  toilsome  day,  they  should  be 
compelled  to  go  to  sleep  without  having  had  a  good  meal. 
They  believe — and  they  are  right — that  eating  cold  food 
at  such  high  elevations,  with  such  low  temperature,  leads 
to  certain  death.  They  preferred,  therefore,  to  remain 
without  food  altogether.  Night  came,  and  with  it  the 
wind,  blowing  in  gusts  and  piling  the  grit  and  snow 
around  our  tents.  During  the  nocturnal  hours,  with  the 
hurricane  raging,  we  had  to  turn  out  of  our  flapping  can- 
vases several  times  to  make  the  loose  pegs  firmer.  Fast- 
ening all  the  frozen  ropes  was  very  cold  work.  At  2  A.M. 
the  thermometer  was  down  to  12°.  At  9  A.M.,  in  the  sun, 
it  went  up  to  26°,  and  inside  the  tent  at  the  same  hour  we 
had  a  temperature  as  high  as  32° — freezing-point. 


CHAPTER   XXVI 

MYSTERIOUS  FOOTPRINTS — BRIGAND  OR  SPY? — PASSES  AND  TRACKS— IN- 
TENSE COLD— NO  FUEL— A  HIGH,  FLAT  PLATEAU— FUEL  AT  LAST!— 
TWO  SPIES  IN  DISGUISE — WHAT  THEY  TOOK  US  FOR 

IN  a  hurricane  of  grit  and  drenching  rain  we  packed 
up  our  traps  as  best  we  could  and  again  started  on  our 
way.  I  was  slightly  in  advance,  when,  to  my  surprise, 
I  noticed,  some  two  hundred  yards  only  from  camp, 
a  double  line  of  recent  footmarks  in  the  snow.  Those 
coming  towards  us  were  somewhat  indistinct  and  nearly 
covered  with  grit,  those  going  in  the  opposite  direction 
seemed  quite  recent.  After  carefully  examining  these 
footprints,  I  felt  pretty  certain  that  they  had  been  made 
by  a  Tibetan.  Where  the  footprints  stopped,  marks  in 
the  snow  showed  that  the  man  had  at  different  points  laid 
himself  flat  on  the  ground.  No  doubt  we  had  been  spied 
upon  and  watched.  My  own  men  had  shown  many  signs 
of  terror  ever  since  we  had  crossed  to  this  side  of  the 
Himahlyas,  and  were  now  all  anxiously  stooping  low  over 
these  prints  and  speculating  on  their  origin.  Their  excite- 
ment and  fear  were  strange  to  watch.  Some  surmised 
that  the  man  must  be  a  Daku,  a  brigand,  and  that  in  the 
evening  we  should  be  attacked  by  the  whole  band ;  others 
maintained  that  the  spy  could  only  be  a  Sepoy  sent  by  the 
Gyanema  officers  to  watch  our  movements.  In  any  case, 
this  incident  was  held  to  be  an  evil  omen,  and  during  our 
march  in  a  northwest  direction  along  the  bank  of  the 
river  we  continually  saw  the  trail.  The  wildest  specula- 

171 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

tions  and  imaginations  were  rife.  To  the  left  of  us  we 
passed  the  valleys  leading  south  to  the  Neway  Pass ;  then 
a  second  to  the  Kats,  230°  (b.  m.).  The  bearings  were 
taken  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  descending  from  it  and 
a  tributary  of  the  Darma  Yangti. 

Six  miles  from  our  last  camp,  at  bearings  340°,  was  the 
L  u way  Pass. 

We  were  travelling  on  flat  or  slightly  undulating  barren 
ground.  We  waded  across  another  cold  river  with  water 
up  to  our  waists,  and  my  men  became  so  exhausted  that 
one  mile  farther  we  had  to  halt  at  16,650  feet. 

The  cold  was  intense,  and  again  we  had  no  fuel  of  any 
kind.  A  furious  wind  was  blowing,  with  snow  falling 
heavily  in  the  evening.  My  carriers,  half  starved,  ate  a 
little  satoo,  a  kind  of  oatmeal,  but  Chanden  Sing,  a  Raji- 
put,  could  not,  without  breaking  his  caste,  eat  his  food 
without  undressing.  It  was  two  days  since  he  had  had 
his  last  meal,  but  rather  than  infringe  the  rules  of  his  re- 
ligion, or  take  off  his  clothes  in  such  frigid  regions,  he 
preferred  to  curl  up  in  his  blanket  and  go  to  sleep 
fasting. 

The  doctor  left  the  warmth  and  comfort  of  blankets  to 
go  and  talk  with  the  men,  and  get  their  views  about 
weather  prospects  and  the  chances  of  our  route.  I  pre- 
ferred the  comfort  of  such  warmth  as  I  could  get  in  our 
tent,  where  the  temperature  was  28°  Fahr.,  or  four  de- 
grees below  freezing.  The  snow  was  lying  a  foot  deep, 
and  it  was  still  falling  heavily.  The  carriers  were  all  at- 
tempting to  sleep,  huddled  as  close  as  possible  to  each 
other  for  warmth ;  they  refused  to  move,  saying  they 
would  rather  die,  and  we  found  it  convenient  to  believe 
them,  and  get  what  warmth  and  sleep  we  could  under 
blankets  in  the  tent. 

Two  or  three  hours  later  the  weather  cleared.  The 

172 


A    SHELTERED    NOOK 

coolies,  half  starved,  came  to  complain  that  they  were 
again  unable  to  find  fuel  to  cook  their  food,  and  that  they 
would  leave  me.  The  position  of  affairs  was  critical.  I 
immediately  took  my  telescope  and  clambered  to  the  top 
of  a  small  hillock.  It  was  curious  to  note  what  unbound- 
ed faith  the  coolies  had  in  this  glass.  It  was  evident  that 
they  believed,  in  a  childlike  fashion,  that  I  could  see 
through  mountains  with  it.  I  came  down  with  the  reas- 
suring news  that  one  day's  march  farther  would  bring  us 
to  a  fine  supply  of  fuel. 

They  cheerfully  hastened  to  pack  up  the  loads,  and  set 
forth  with  unusual  energy  in  the  direction  I  had  pointed 
out.  We  followed  a  parallel  line  to  the  high  flat  plateau 
on  the  other  side  of  the  stream,  the  slopes  of  which,  in 
relation  to  the  plain  we  were  standing  on,  were  at  an  ob- 
tuse angle  of  about  115°.  The  snow-covered  plateau  ex- 
tended from  southwest  to  northeast.  Beyond  it  to  the 
north  could  be  seen  some  high  snowy  peaks,  in  all  prob- 
ability the  lofty  summits  southeast  of  Gartok.  At  the 
point  where  the  Luway  joins  the  other  three  rivers  there 
is  a  direct  way  to  the  summit  of  the  table-land,  along 
which  it  continues  across  the  Himahlyas  by  the  Luway 
Pass.  To  our  right  we  were  flanked  by  high,  rugged 
mountains,  with  an  occasional  precipitous  torrent.  Six 
hours'  brisk  marching  took  us  to  a  sheltered  nook  where 
a  few  lichens  and  shrubs  were  growing.  If  we  had  sud- 
denly descended  into  the  Black  Forest  of  Germany  or 
the  Yosemite  Valley,  with  their  gigantic,  century-old  trees, 
our  delight  could  not  have  been  Greater.  As  it  was,  the 

o  o 

highest  of  these  shrubs  stood  no  higher  than  six  or  seven 
inches  from  the  ground,  while  the  diameter  of  the  largest 
piece  of  wood  we  collected  was  smaller  than  that  of  an 
ordinary  pencil.  With  feverish  activity  all  hands  went  to 
work  to  root  up  these  plants  for  fuel. 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

When  night  came,  the  same  number  of  hands  were 
busy  cooking  and  transferring  with  alarming  celerity  such 
-steaming  food  as  was  available  from  the  different  fires  to 
the  mouths  of  the  famished  coolies.  Happiness  reigned  in 
camp,  and  all  recent  hardships  were  forgotten. 

A  fresh  surprise  was  awaiting  us  when  we  rose.  Two 
Tibetans  disguised  as  beggars  had  come  to  our  camp. 
They  professed  to  be  suffering  from  cold  and  starvation. 
I  gave  orders  that  they  should  be  properly  fed  and  kindly 
treated.  On  being  cross-examined  they  confessed  that 
they  were  spies  sent  by  the  officer  at  Gyanema  to  ascer- 
tain whether  a  sahib  had  crossed  the  frontier,  and  whether 
we  had  seen  anything  of  him. 

We  had  so  many  things  to  attend  to  in  the  morning, 
and  it  was  so  cold,  that  washing  had  really  become  a 
nuisance,  and  I  for  my  part  gave  it  up,  at  least  pro  tern. 
We  were  sunburned,  and  we  wore  turbans  and  snow-glasses, 
so  the  Tibetans  departed  under  the  impression  that  our 
party  consisted  of  a  Hindoo  doctor,  his  brother,  and  a 
caravan  of  servants  (none  of  whom  had  seen  a  sahib  com- 
ing), and  that  we  were  now  on  a  pilgrimage  to  the  sacred 
Mansarowar  Lake  and  Kelas  Mount. 

In  the  presence  of  the  men  we  treated  this  as  a  great 
joke,  but,  all  the  same,  Wilson  and  I  anxiously  consulted 
as  to  our  immediate  plans.  Should  we  make  a  rapid 
march  during  the  night  over  the  mountain  range  to  our 
right,  and  strike  east  by  the  jungle,  or  should  we  face  the 
Gyanema  leader  and  his  soldiers? 

We  decided  to  meet  them  rather  than  go  out  of  our 
way,  and  I  gave  orders  to  raise  camp  immediately. 

174 


CHAPTER   XXVII 

LAMA  CHOKDEN— -A  TIBETAN  GUARD— THE  SACRED  KELAS— REVERENCE 
OF  MY  MEN  FOR  THE  SACRED  MOUNTAIN — TRYING  HARD  TO  KEEP 
FRIENDS  WITH  THE  GODS — OBOS— WATER  FLOWING  TO  US 

WE  altered  our  course  from  north  to  northeast,  rising 
to  16,600  feet,  and  leaving  the  high  table-land  to  the  west. 
We  arrived  at  Lama  Chokden  (or  Chorten),a  pass  protected 
by  a  Tibetan  guard,  who  quickly  turned  out,  matchlocks 
in  hand,  as  we  approached.  They  seemed  a  miserable  lot, 
and  not  only  offered  no  resistance,  but  actually  begged 
for  money  and  food.  They  complained  of  ill-treatment 
by  their  superiors,  stating  that  they  received  no  pay,  and 
even  food  was  only  occasionally  sent  to  them  at  this  out- 
post. Their  tunics  were  in  rags;  each  man  carried  a 
sword  stuck  in  front  through  the  girdle.  Here,  too,  we 
had  more  inquiries  about  the  young  sahib,  as  messengers 
on  horseback  had  been  sent  post-haste  from  Taklakot  to 
warn  the  Gyanema  officer  not  to  let  him  penetrate  into 
Hundes*  by  the  Lumpiya  Pass,  should  he  attempt  it. 
Their  description  of  my  supposed  appearance  was  very 
amusing,  and  when  they  said  that  if  the  sahib  came  they 
would  have  to  cut  his  head  off,  I  felt  so  touched  by  their 
good-natured  confidence  that  I  wanted  to  distribute  a  few 
rupees  among  them. 

"  Do  not  give  them  anything,  sir,"  said  Kachi  and  the 
doctor.  "  These  fellows  are  hand  and  glove  with  the 
bands  of  dacoits ;  the  latter  will  soon  be  told  that  we  have 

*  Hundes — Tibet. 
I.— O  175 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

money,  and  we  shall  run  great  risk  of  being  attacked  at 
night." 

I  insisted  on  giving  them  a  present. 

"  No,  sir,"  cried  Kachi,  distressed ;  "  do  not  do  it,  or  it 
will  bring  us  no  end  of  trouble  and  misfortune.  If  you 
give  them  four  annas,  that  will  be  ample." 

Accordingly  the  officer  in  command  had  this  large  sum 
deposited  in  the  outstretched  palm  of  his  hand,  and,  to 
show  his  satisfaction,  he  pulled  out  his  tongue  to  its  full 
length,  waving  both  his  hands  at  me  for  some  minutes, 
and  bowing  clumsily  at  the  same  time.  His  fur  cap  had 
been  previously  removed  and  thrown  on  the  ground. 
This  was  indeed  a  grand  salaam,  a  ceremonious  acknowl- 
edgment of  a  gift  of  something  less  than  fourpence ! 

While  the  doctor  remained  in  conversation  with  him,  I 
happened  to  witness  a  very  beautiful  sight.  To  the  north 
the  clouds  had  dispersed,  and  the  snow-capped  sacred 
Kelas  Mount  stood  majestic  before  us.  In  appearance 
not  unlike  the  graceful  roof  of  a  temple,  Kelas  towers 
over  the  long  white-capped  range,  contrasting  in  beautiful 
blending  of  tints  with  the  warm  sienna  color  of  the  lower 
elevations.  Kelas  is  some  two  thousand  feet  higher  than 
the  other  peaks  of  the  Gangir  chain,  with  strongly  defined 
ledges  and  terraces  marking  its  stratifications,  and  covered 
with  horizontal  layers  of  snow  standing  out  in  brilliant 
color  against  the  dark,  ice-worn  rock.  The  Tibetans,  the 
Nepalese,  the  Shokas,  the  Humlis,  Jumlis,  and  Hindoos, 
all  have  a  strong  veneration  for  this  mountain,  which  is 
believed  by  them  to  be  the  abode  of  all  the  good  gods, 
especially  of  the  god  Siva.  In  fact,  the  ledge  round  its 
base  is  said  by  the  Hindoos  to  be  the  mark  of  the  ropes 
used  by  the  devil  (Rakas)  to  pull  down  the  throne  of 
Siva. 

My  men,  with  heads  uncovered,  their  faces  turned  tow- 

176 


FRIENDS   WITH    THE    GODS 

ards  the  sacred  peak,  were  muttering  prayers.  With 
joined  hands,  which  they  slowly  raised  as  high  as  the 
forehead,  they  prayed  fervently,  and  then  went  down  on 
their  knees,  with  heads  bent  low  to  the  ground.  My  brig- 
and follower,  who  was  standing  close  by  me,  hurriedly 
whispered  that  I  should  join  in  this  act  of  prayer. 

"  You  must  keep  friends  with  the  gods,"  said  the  ban- 
dit ;  "  misfortune  will  attend  you  if  you  do  not  salaam  to 
Kelas;  that  is  the  home  of  a  good  god !"  and  he  pointed 
to  the  peak  with  the  most  devout  air  of  conviction. 

To  please  him  I  saluted  the  mountain  with  the  utmost 
deference,  and,  taking  my  cue  from  the  others,  placed  a 
white  stone  on  one  of  the  hundreds  of  Choktens  or  Obos 
(stone  pillars)  erected  by  devotees  at  this  spot.  These 
Obos,  or  rough  pyramids  of  stones,  are  found  on  the  tracks 
traversing  all  high  passes,  near  lakes — in  fact,  everywhere, 
but  rarely  in  such  quantities  as  at  Lama  Chokden.  The 
hill  in  front,  and  at  the  back  of  the  guard-house,  was  liter- 
ally covered  with  these  structures.  Each  passer-by  de- 
posits a  stone  on  one  of  them  —a  white  stone  if  possible — 
and  this  is  supposed  to  bring  him  good-fortune,  or,  if  he 
has  a  wish  he  desires  accomplished,  such  a  contribution 
will  enhance  the  chances  of  its  fulfilment. 

The  guard-house  itself  was  of  rough  stone,  mean  and 
desolate,  and  in  any  country  but  Tibet  would  not  be  con- 
sidered fit  accommodation  for  pigs. 

After  oroinor  a  mile   or  so  farther,  as  the  sun  was  fast 

o         o 

disappearing  we  searched  for  a  suitable  spot  to  pitch  our 
tents.  There  was  no  sign  of  any  water,  only  the  stony 
bed  of  a  dried  rivulet.  We  were  discussing  the  situation, 
when  a  faint  sound  as  of  rushing  water  struck  our  ears. 
It  grew  louder  and  louder,  and  then  we  saw  coming  tow- 
ards us  a  stream  of  limpid  molten  snow,  gradually  advanc- 
ing over  the  bed  of  stones.  Evidently  the  snow  of  the 

177 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

mountains  had  taken  all  day  to  melt,  and  the  water  was 
only  now  reaching  this  spot.  My  dacoit  was  in  a  great 
state  of  excitement. 

"  Water  flowing  to  you,  sahib !"  he  exclaimed,  with  his 
arms  outstretched.  "You  will  have  great  luck  !  Look! 
Look!  You  want  water  for  your  camp,  and  a  stream 
comes  to  you  !  Heaven  blesses  you.  You  must  dip  your 
fingers  into  the  water  as  soon  as  it  comes  up  to  you,  and 
throw  some  drops  over  your  shoulders.  Then  will  fortune 
attend  you  on  your  journey." 

I  readily  fell  in  with  this  Tibetan  superstition,  and  we 
all  dipped  our  fingers  and  sprinkled  the  water  behind  our 
backs.  Wilson,  however,  who  took  the  matter  quite  seri- 
ously, said  it  was  all  nonsense,  and  would  not  give  in  to 
such  "  childish  fancy." 

Good -fortune  would  have  meant  much  to  me,  but  in 
the  days  to  come  this  simple  rite  proved  to  have  been 
futile !  Certainly  no  good  fairy  watched  over  my  steps, 
and  often  the  thought  of  this  ceremony  came  back  to  me 
with  bitterness. 

178 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 

AN  EXTENSIVE  VALLEY — KIANG,  OR  WILD  HORSE  —  THEIR  STRANGE 
WAYS — THE  GYANEMA  FORT — APPREHENSION  AT  OUR  APPEARANCE — 
A  PARLEY— "CUT  OUR  HEADS  !"— REVOLT  AND  MURDER  CONTEM- 
PLATED— HYPOCRITICAL  WAYS  OF  TIBETAN  OFFICIALS — HELP  SUM- 
MONED FROM  EVERYWHERE — PREPARING  FOR  WAR 

IN  front  of  our  camp  was  a  great  stretch  of  flat  alluvial 
land,  which  had  been,  to  all  appearance,  at  some  remote 
time  the  bed  of  a  lar^e  lake  about  ten  miles  Ions:  and 

o  o 

fourteen  wide.  With  my  telescope  I  could  see  plainly  to 
40°  (b.  m.),  at  the  foot  of  a  small  hill,  the  camping-ground 
of  Karko.  There  were  many  tents,  and  my  men  seemed 
much  reassured  when  by  their  shape  and  color  we  made 
them  out  to  be  those  of  the  Joharis  from  Milam,  who 
come  over  at  this  place  to  trade  with  the  Hunyas.*  To 
east-northeast  we  had  a  valley  extending  for  many  miles 
between  two  high  ranges,  and  to  the  west  and  northwest 
were  hills  between  us  and  the  Darma  Yangti,  flowing 
there  in  a  north-northeast  direction.  Beyond  Karko  to 
the  north  a  stretch  of  water,  the  Gyanema  Lake,  showed 
brilliantly,  and  beyond  it  some  comparatively  low  hill 
ranges.  In  the  distance,  more  snowy  peaks  were  visible. 
On  leaving  camp  we  traversed  the  plain  for  six  miles 
in  a  northeast  direction,  and  then,  on  a  course  of  80° 
(b.  m.),  turned  into  a  smaller  valley  well  enclosed  by  hills, 
following  it  for  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles.  This 
formed,  as  it  were,  an  arm  of  the  other  large  valley. 

*  Hunyas — Tibetans. 
179 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

During  our  march  we  saw  many  large  herds  of  Kiang 
(wild  horse).  These  animals  came  quite  close  to  us.  They 
resembled  zebras  in  shape  and  movement  of  body,  but  in 
color  they  were  mostly  light  brown.  The  natives  regard- 
ed their  near  proximity  as  extremely  dangerous ;  for  their 
apparent  tameness  is  often  deceptive,  enabling  them  to 
draw  quite  close  to  the  unwary  traveller,  and  then  with  a 
sudden  dash  seize  him  by  the  stomach,  inflicting  a  horri- 
ble wound  with  their  powerful  jaws.  Their  graceful  and 
coquettish  ways  were  most  taking;  we  occasionally  threw 
stones  at  them  to  keep  them  at  a  safe  distance,  but  after 
cantering  prettily  away  they  would  follow  us  again  and 
come  within  a  few  yards.  I  succeeded  in  taking  some  very 
good  negatives,  which  unfortunately  were  afterwards  de- 
stroyed by  the  Tibetan  authorities.  I  still  have,  however, 
some  of  the  sketches  I  made  of  them.  We  climbed  over 
another  hill  range,  and  descended  on  the  other  side  into  a 
grassy  stretch  of  flat  land,  in  the  northern  portion  of  which 
was  a  sheet  of  water.  On  a  hill  south  of  the  lake  stood  the 
Gyanema  Khar,  or  fort,  a  primitive  tower-like  structure  of 
stones,  with  a  tent  pitched  over  it  to  answer  the  purpose 
of  roof,  supporting  a  flag-staff  on  which  flew  two  dirty 
white  rags.  They  were  not  the  colors  of  Hundes,  but 
only  wind  prayers.  Lower  down,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
were  two  or  three  large  black  tents  and  a  small  shed  of 
stones.  Hundreds  of  black,  white,  and  brown  yaks  were 
grazing  on  the  green  patches  of  grass. 

The  appearance  of  our  party  evidently  created  some 
apprehension,  for  we  had  hardly  shown  ourselves  on  the 
summit  of  the  col  when  from  the  fort  a  gong  began  to 
sound  loudly,  filling  the  air  with  its  unmelodious  metallic 
notes.  A  shot  was  fired.  Soldiers  with  their  matchlocks 
were  seen  running  here  and  there.  They  pulled  down 
one  of  the  black  tents  and  hastily  conveyed  it  inside  the 

1 80 


AT   THE    GYANEMA    FORT 

fort,  the  greater  part  of  the  garrison  also  seeking  shelter 
within  the  walls  with  the  empressement  almost  of  a  stam- 
pede. When,  after  some  little  time,  they  convinced  them- 
selves that  we  had  no  evil  intentions,  some  of  the  Tib- 
etan officers,  followed  by  their  men,  came  trembling  to 
meet  us.  The  doctor,  unarmed,  went  ahead  to  talk  with 
them,  whereas  my  bearer  and  I  remained  with  the  coolies 
for  the  double  purpose  of  protecting  our  baggage  in  case 
of  a  treacherous  attack,  and  of  preventing  my  panic- 
stricken  carriers  from  abandoning  their  loads  and  escap- 
ing. But  matters  looked  peaceful  enough.  Rugs  were 
spread  on  the  grass,  and  eventually  we  all  sat  down.  An 
hour's  trying  parley  with  the  Tibetan  officers,  during 
which  time  the  same  things  were  repeated  over  and  over 
again,  led  to  nothing.  The)'  said  they  could  on  no  ac- 
count allow  any  one  from  India,  whether  native  or  sahib, 
to  proceed,  and  we  must  go  back.  We  on  our  side  stated 
that  we  were  doing  no  harm.  We  were  pilgrims  to  the 
sacred  Lake  of  Mansarowar,  only  a  few  miles  farther.  We 
had  gone  to  much  expense  and  trouble.  How  could 
we  now  turn  back  when  so  near  our  goal  ?  We  would 
not  go  back,  and  trusted  they  would  allow  us  to  pro- 
ceed. 

We  treated  them  courteously  and  kindly,  and  probably 
mistaking  this  for  fear  they  promptly  took  advantage  of 
it,  especially  the  Magbun,*  or  chief  officer  in  charge  of  the 
Gyanema  fort.  His  marked  humility,  of  which  at  first 
he  had  made  so  much  display,  suddenly  turned  into  arro- 
gance. 

"  You  will  have  to  cut  off  my  head,"  said  he,  with  a 
vicious  countenance,  "or  rather  I  will  cut  off  yours,  before 
I  let  you  go  another  step." 

*  Magbun  or  Magpun — General-in-Chief. 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

"Cut  off  my  head?"  cried  I,  jumping  on  my  feet  and 
shoving  a  cartridge  into  my  rifle. 

"  Cut  off  my  head  ?"  repeated  my  bearer,  pointing  with 
his  Martini-Henry  at  the  official. 

"Cut  off  our  heads?"  queried  angrily  the  Brahmin 
and  the  two  Christian  servants  of  Dr.  Wilson,  handling 
a  Winchester  and  a  couple  of  Gourkha  kukris  (large 
knives). 

"  No,  no,  no,  no !  Salaam,  salaam,  salaam  !"  poured 
forth  the  Magbun  with  the  celerity  of  speech  only  pos- 
sessed by  a  panic-stricken  man.  "  Salaam,  salaam,"  re- 
peated he  again,  bowing  down  to  the  ground,  tongue  out, 
and  depositing  his  hat  at  our  feet  in  a  disgustingly  servile 
manner.  "  Let  us  talk  like  friends!" 

The  Magbun's  men,  no  braver  than  their  master,  shifted 
their  positions  in  a  nonchalant  manner  so  as  to  be  screened 
by  their  superiors  in  case  of  our  firing,  and  on  second 
thoughts,  judging  even  such  a  precaution  to  insure  them 
but  scanty  safety,  they  one  after  the  other  got  up,  walked 
steadily  away  for  half  a  dozen  steps,  to  show  it  was  not 
fear  that  made  them  leave,  and  then  took  to  their  heels. 

The  Magbun  and  the  other  officers  who  remained  be- 
came more  and  more  meek.  We  spoke  and  argued  in  a 
friendly  manner  for  two  long  hours,  but  with  no  appreci- 
able results.  The  Magbun  could  not  decide  of  his  own 
accord.  He  would  consult  with  his  officers,  and  he  could 
give  us  an  answer  no  sooner  than  the  next  morning.  In 
the  mean  time  he  would  provide  for  our  general  comfort 
and  insure  our  safety,  if  we  would  encamp  near  his  tent. 
This,  of  course,  I  well  knew  to  be  an  expedient  to  gain 
time,  so  as  to  send  for  soldiers  to  Barca,  north  of  the 
Rakstal  Lake,  as  well  as  to  all  the  neighboring  camps.  I 
frankly  told  him  my  suspicions,  but  added  that  I  wished 
to  deal  fairly  with  the  Tibetan  authorities  before  resort- 

182 


A    DEMORALIZED    COMPANY 

ing  to  force.  I  reminded  the  Magbun  again,  and  made 
him  plainly  understand,  that  we  were  merely  peaceful 
travellers,  and  had  not  come  to  fight;  that  I  was  paying 
tenfold  for  anything  I  purchased  from  him  or  his  men, 
and  was  glad  to  do  so;  but  at  the  same  time,  let  the  hand 
beware  that  dared  touch  or  twist  a  single  hair  of  any  one 
belonging  to  my  party!  The  Magbun  declared  that  he 
understood  perfectly.  He  swore  friendship,  and  as  friends 
he  begged  us  to  stop  over  the  night  near  his  camp.  By 
the  Sun  and  Kunju  Sum  (Trinity)  he  gave  a  solemn  oath 
that  we  should  in  no  way  be  harmed.  He  took  humble 
leave  of  us  and  retired. 

The  doctor  and  I  had  been  sitting  in  front,  next  were 
Chanden  Sing,  the  Brahmin,  and  the  two  Christians.  The 
carriers  were  behind.  When  the  Magbun  had  gone  I 
turned  round  to  look  at  them.  Behold,  what  a  sight ! 
They  one  and  all  were  crying  miserably,  each  man  hiding 
his  face  in  his  hands.  Kachi  had  tears  streaming  down 
his  cheeks,  Dola  was  sobbing,  while  the  Daku  and  the 
other  Tibetan  in  my  employ,  who  had  for  the  occasion 
assumed  a  disguise,  were  concealing  themselves  behind 
their  loads.  Serious  though  the  situation  was,  I  could 
not  help  laughing  at  the  demoralization  of  my  men. 
We  pitched  our  tents,  and  I  had  been  sitting  awhile  in- 
side one,  registering  my  observations  and  writing  up  my 
diary,  when  Kachi  crept  in,  apparently  in  great  distress. 
He  seemed  so  upset  that  he  could  hardly  speak. 

"Master!"  he  whispered.  "Master!  The  Tibetans 
have  sent  a  man  to  your  coolies  threatening  them  that 
they  must  betray  you  or  die.  They  must  abandon  you 
during  the  night,  and  if  you  attempt  to  retain  them  they 
must  kill  you." 

At  the  same  time  that  this  agent  had  been  sent  to  con- 
spire with  my  coolies,  other  envoys  of  the  Magbun  brought 

183 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

huge  masses  of  dry  dung  to  make  our  fires,  conveying  to 
me  his  renewed  declarations  of  friendship.  Notwith- 
standing this,  soldiers  were  despatched  in  every  direction 
to  call  for  help.  I  saw  them  start :  one  went  towards 
Kardam  and  Taklakot;  a  second  proceeded  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Barca,  and  a  third  galloped  to  the  west. 

My  carriers  were  evidently  preparing  a  coup  de  main  as 
1  watched  them  through  an  opening  in  the  tent.  They 
were  busily  engaged  separating  their  blankets  and  clothes 
from  my  loads,  dividing  the  provisions  among  themselves, 
and  throwing  aside  my  goods.  I  went  out  to  them,  pa- 
tiently made  them  repack  the  things,  and  cautioned  them 
that  I  would  shoot  any  one  who  attempted  to  revolt  or 
desert. 

While  the  doctor  and  I  sat  down  to  a  hearty  meal, 
which  rumors  in  camp  said  would  be  our  last,  Chanden 
Sing  was  intrusted  with  the  preparations  for  war  on  our 
side.  He  cleaned  the  rifles  with  much  care,  and  got  the 
ammunition  ready,  for  he  was  longing  to  fight.  The  Brah- 
min, on  whose  faithfulness  we  could  also  rely,  remained 
cool  and  collected  through  the  whole  affair.  He  was  a 
philosopher,  and  never  worried  over  anything.  He  took 
no  active  part  in  preparing  for  our  defence,  for  he  feared 
not  death.  God  alone  could  kill  him,  he  argued,  and  all 
the  matchlocks  in  the  country  together  could  not  send  a 
bullet  through  him  unless  God  wished  it.  And  if  it  be 
God's  decree  that  he  should  die,  what  could  be  the  use 
of  rebelling  against  it  ?  The  two  converts,  like  good 
Christians,  were  more  practical,  and  lost  no  time  in  grind- 
ing the  huge  blades  of  their  kukris  to  the  sharpness  of 
a  razor. 

When  darkness  came  a  guard  was  placed,  at  a  little  dis- 
tance off,  all  round  our  camp.  It  seemed  likely  that  a 
rush  on  our  tent  with  the  help  of  my  treacherous  carriers 

184 


TIBETANS    THREATEN    AN    ATTACK 

was  contemplated,  should  an  opportunity  occur.  One  of 
us  kept  watch  outside  all  through  the  night,  and  those  in- 
side lay  down  in  their  clothes,  with  loaded  rifles  by  them. 
I  can't  say  that  either  Dr.  Wilson  or  I  felt  particular- 
ly uneasy,  for  the  Tibetan  soldiers,  with  their  clumsy 
matchlocks,  long  spears,  and  jewelled  swords  and  dag- 
gers, inspired  us  with  more  admiration  for  their  pictu- 
resque appearance  than  with  fear. 

185 


CHAPTER    XXIX 

ARRIVAL  OF  A  HIGH  OFFICIAL— THE  BARCA  TARJUM— A  TEDIOUS  PALAVER 
— THE  TARJUM'S  ANXIETY — PERMISSION  TO  PROCEED— A  TRAITOR- 
ENTREATED  TO  RETRACE  OUR  STEPS — THIRTY  ARMED  HORSEMEN — 
A  PRETTY  SPEECH 

QUITE  early  the  next  morning  we  were  roused  by  the 
distant  sound  of  tinkling  horse-bells.  On  looking  out  of 
the  tent  I  saw  a  long  row  of  pack-ponies  heavily  ladenv 
escorted  by  a  number  of  mounted  soldiers  with  match- 
locks and  spears.  It  was  evident  that  some  high  official 
was  coming.  This  advance  detachment  consisted  of  his 
subalterns  and  his  baggage.  They  took  a  long  sweep  far 
away  from  our  tent  and  dismounted  by  the  Gyanema  fort. 
Other  soldiers  and  messengers  were  constantly  arriving  in 
groups  from  all  directions.  The  leader  of  one  party,  with 
a  considerable  escort  of  soldiers,  was  received  with  profuse 
salaams,  and  I  concluded  that  he  must  be  an  important 
personage. 

After  some  time  a  message  was  sent  to  us  that  this  new- 
comer, the  Barca  Tarjum,  practically  a  potentate  equal  in 
rank  to  a  king  under  a  protectorate,  wished  to  have  the 
honor  of  seeing  us.  We  replied  that  we  were  having 
our  breakfast  and  that  we  would  send  for  him  when  we 
wished  to  speak  to  him.  Our  experience  had  taught  us 
that  it  was  advisable  to  treat  Tibetan  officials  as  inferiors, 
as  they  were  then  more  subdued  and  easier  to  deal  with. 
At  eleven  we  despatched  a  messenger  to  the  fort  to  say 
we  should  be  pleased  to  receive  the  Tarjum.  He  came 
immediately  with  a  large  following,  a  picturesque  figure 

1 86 


THE    BARCA    TARJUM 

dressed  in  a  long  coat  of  green  silk  of  Chinese  shape,  with 
large  sleeves  turned  up,  showing  his  arms  up  to  the  elbow; 
he  had  a  cap  similar  to  those  worn  by  Chinese  officials, 
and  he  was  shod  in  heavy,  long  black  boots,  with  large 
nails  under  the  soles.  His  long,  pale,  angular  face  was 
remarkable  in  many  ways  ;  it  was  interestingly  stolid,  and, 
though  somewhat  effeminate,  had  rather  fine  features  ;  un- 
mistakable signs  of  depravity  indicated  his  low  class  of 
mind  and  morals.  Long  hair  fell  in  loose  curls  down  to 
his  shoulders,  and  hanging  from  his  left  ear  was  an  ear-ring 
of  large  dimensions,  with  malachite  ornaments  and  a  pen- 
dant. In  his  nervous  fingers  he  held  a  small  roll  of  Tib- 
etan material,  which  he  used  with  both  hands  as  a  hand- 
kerchief to  blow  his  nose  inconsequently  every  time  that 
he  was  at  a  loss  to  answer  a  question.  The  Tarjum  and 
his  men  were  profuse  in  their  bows,  and  there  was,  as 
usual,  a  great  display  of  tongues.  These  were,  I  noticed, 
of  an  unhealthy  whitish  color,  caused  throughout  Tibet  by 
excessive  tea-drinking,  a  practice  which  ruins  the  digestion 
and  furs  their  tongues. 

We  had  rugs  placed  outside  our  principal  tent,  and  the 
doctor  and  I  sat  on  one,  asking  the  Tarjum  to  sit  on  the 
one  facing  us.  His  followers  squatted  around  him.  It 
is  a  well-known  fact  that  in  Tibet,  if  you  are  a  "  some- 
body," or  if  you  wish  people  to  recognize  your  impor- 
tance, you  must  have  an  umbrella  spread  over  your  head. 
Fortunately,  the  ever-prudent  doctor  had  two  in  his  pos- 
session ;  which  two  of  our  men  held  over  our  respective 
heads.  The  Tarjum  himself  was  shaded  under  a  parasol 
of  colossal  dimensions,  held  in  position  by  his  secretary. 

In  spite  of  the  extravagant  terms  of  friendship  which 
fell  from  the  Tarjum  s  lips,  I  was  convinced,  by  close  ob- 
servation of  the  man's  face  that  his  words  were  insincere 
and  that  it  would  be  unsafe  to  trust  him.  He  never 
i.— p  187 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

looked  us  straight  in  the  face ;  his  eyes  were  fixed  on  the 
ground  all  the  time,  and  he  spoke  in  a  despicably  affected 
manner.  I  did  not  like  the  man  from  the  very  first,  and, 
friend  or  no  friend,  I  kept  my  loaded  rifle  on  my  lap. 

After  endless  ponderous  speeches,  clumsy  compliments, 
and  tender  inquiries  after  all  relations  they  could  possibly 
think  of ;  after  tiring  parabolic  sentences  with  fine  sounds 
but  no  meaning;  after  repeated  blowing  of  the  nose  and 
loud  coughing,  which  always  came  on  opportunely  when 
we  asked  whether  they  had  yet  come  to  a  conclusion  as 
to  what  we  should  be  allowed  to  do,  at  last,  when  my 
patience  was  nearly  exhausted,  our  negotiations  of  the 
previous  day  were  reopened.  We  argued  for  hours.  We 
asked  to  be  allowed  to  go  on.  They  were  still  uncertain 
whether  they  would  let  us  or  not.  To  simplify  matters, 
and  hasten  their  decision  before  other  reinforcements  ar- 
rived, the  doctor  applied  for  permission  to  let  only  eight 
of  us  proceed  to  Mansarowar.  He  (the  doctor)  himself 
would  remain  at  Gyanema  with  the  remainder  of  the 
party  as  a  guarantee  of  good  faith.  But  even  this  offer 
they  rejected,  not  directly,  but  with  hypocritical  excuses 
and  delays,  for  they  thought  we  would  not  find  our  way, 
and  that  if  we  did  we  should  find  it  very  rough  and  the 
climate  too-severe ;  that  the  brigands  might  attack  us,  and 
so  on,  and  so  on.  All  this  was  very  tiresome,  and  there 
were  signs  even  of  a  nasty  side  to  their  attitude.  I  de- 
cided to  know  what  I  was  about. 

Still  holding  the  rifle  cocked  at  safety  on  my  lap,  I 
turned  the  muzzle  of  it  towards  the  Tarjum,  and  purpose- 
ly let  my  hand  slide  down  to  the  trigger.  He  became 
uncomfortable,  and  his  face  showed  signs  of  wild  terror. 
His  eyes,  until  now  fixed  upon  the  ground,  became  first 
unsteady,  and  then  settled  fixedly,  and  with  a  look  of  dis- 
tress, on  the  muzzle  of  my  rifle.  At  the  same  time  he 

'188 


THE  TARJUM  BROUGHT  TO  TERMS 

tried  to  dodge  the  aim,  right  or  left,  by  moving  his  head, 
but  I  made  the  weapon  follow  all  his  movements.  The 
Tar]  urn's  servants  fully  shared  their  master's  fear.  "With- 
out doubt  the  poor  fellow  was  in  agony ;  his  tone  of  voice, 
a  moment  before  boisterous  and  aggressive,  now  dwindled 
into  the  humblest  intonations  imaginable.  With  much 
meekness  he  expressed  himself  ready  to  please  us  in  every 
way. 

"  I  see  that  you  are  good  people,"  said  he  in  a  faint 
whisper,  accompanied  by  a  deep  bow.  "  I  cannot  give,  as 
I  would  like  to  do,  my  official  sanction  to  your  journey 
forward,  but  you  can  go  if  you  wish.  I  cannot  say  more. 
Eight  of  you  can  proceed  to  the  sacred  Mansarowar  Lake. 
The  others  will  remain  here." 

Before  giving  his  final  decision  he  said  that  he  would 
prefer  to  have  another  consultation  with  his  officers. 

We  accorded  this  readily. 

The  Tarjum  then  presented  the  doctor  with  a  roll  of 
Tibetan  cloth. 

I  had  bathed,  as  usual,  in  the  morning,  and  my  Turkish 
towel  was  spread  outside  the  tent  to  dry.  The  Tarjum, 
who  showed  great  interest  in  all  our  things,  took  a  par- 
ticular fancy  to  its  knotty  fabric.  He  sent  for  his  child 
to  see  this  wonderful  material,  and  when  he  arrived  the 
towel  was  placed  on  the  youth's  back  as  if  it  were  a  shawl. 
I  at  once  offered  it  to  him  as  a  present  if  he  would  accept 
it.  There  were  no  bounds  to  his  delight,  and  our  rela- 
tions, somewhat  strained  a  few  minutes  earlier,  became 
now  of  the  friendliest  character.  We  invited  the  party 
inside  our  tent,  and  they  examined  everything  with  curi- 
osity, asking  endless  questions.  They  were  now  quite 
jovial  and  pleasant,  and  even  occasionally  amusing.  Tib- 
etans have  a  craving  for  alcohol  at  all  times,  and  they  soon 
asked  me  if  I  had  any  to  give  them ;  there  was  nothing 

189 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

they  would  like  more.  As  I  never  carry  any  when  travel- 
ling, I  could  not  offer  them  any  recognized  drink  ;  but,  not 
wishing  to  disappoint  them,  I  produced  a  bottle  of  methy- 
lated spirits  (which  I  used  for  my  hypsometrical  appara- 
tus). This  they  readily  drank,  apparently  appreciating  its 
throat-burning  qualities,  and  asked  for  more.  The  Tar- 
jum  complained  of  an  ailment  from  which  he  had  suffered 
for  some  time,  and  the  doctor  was  able  to  give  him  a  suit- 
able remedy,  and  all  the  other  officers  received  small  pres- 
ents when  they  departed. 

In  the  afternoon  a  messenger  came  from  the  Barca  Tar- 

O 

jum.  He  had  good  news  for  us.  The  Tarjum  wished 
us  to  understand  that,  "  as  we  had  been  so  kind  to  him 
and  his  followers,  he  regarded  us  as  his  personal  friends ; 
and  as  we  were  so  anxious  to  visit  the  Mansarowar 
Lake  and  the  great  Kelas  Mount,  and  had  already  ex- 
perienced many  difficulties  and  great  expense  in  com- 
ing so  far,  he  agreed  to  eight  of  our  party  proceeding  to 
the  sacred  spots.  It  was  impossible  for  him  to  give  an 
official  consent,  but  he  repeated  again  that  we  could  go  if 
we  wished." 

This  news  naturally  delighted  me.  Once  at  Kelas,  I 
felt  sure  I  could  easily  find  some  means  of  going  farther. 

On  the  same  evening  a  traitor  in  our  camp  sneaked 
from  under  the  tent  in  which  my  men  were  sleeping  and 
paid  a  visit  to  the  Tarjum.  There  is  no  doubt  that  he 
told  him  I  was  not  the  doctor's  brother,  nor  a  Hindoo 
pilgrim.  He  disclosed  that  I  was  a  sahib,  and  that  I  was 
on  my  way  to  Lhassa.  From  what  I  heard  afterwards,  it 
seemed  that  the  Tarjum  did  not  quite  believe  his  inform- 
ant; but,  fresh  doubts  arising  in  his  mind,  he  sent  a  mes- 
sage during  the  night,  entreating  us  to  return  the  way  we 
came. 

"  If  there  is  really  a  sahib  in  your  party,  whom  you 

190 


A    PRETTY    SPEECH 

have  kept  concealed  from  me,  and  I  let  you  go  on,  my 
head  will  be  cut  off  by  the  Lhassa  people.  You  are  now 
my  friends,  and  you  will  not  allow  this." 

"  Tell  the  Tarjum,"  I  replied  to  the  messenger,  "  that 
he  is  my  friend,  and  I  will  treat  him  as  a  friend." 

In  the  morning  we  found  thirty  horsemen  fully  armed 
posted  some  hundred  yards  from  our  tent.  To  proceed 
with  the  demoralized  crowd  under  me,  and  be  followed 
by  this  company,  would  certainly  prove  disastrous,  and  I 
felt  again  that  some  ruse  was  a  necessity. 

Much  to  the  astonishment  and  terror  of  the  armed 
force  and  their  superiors,  the  doctor,  Chanden  Sing,  and 
I,  rifles  in  hand,  walked  firmly  towards  the  contingent 
of  sepoys.  After  us  came  the  trembling  coolies.  The 
Magbun  and  the  Tarjum's  officers  could  hardly  believe 
their  eyes.  The  soldiers  quickly  dismounted,  and  laid 
their  arms  down  to  show  that  they  had  no  intention  of 
fighting.  We  passed  them  without  any  notice.  The 
Magbun  ran  after  me.  He  begged  me  to  stop  one  mo- 
ment. Dola  was  summoned  to  interpret  his  elaborate 
speech.  A  pair  of  prettily  embroidered  cloth  boots  were 
produced  from  the  loose  folds  of  the  official's  coat,  and 
he  offered  them  with  the  following  words : 

k'  Though  your  face  is  sunburned  and  black,  and  your 
eyes  are  sore  "  (they  were  not,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  but  I 
wore  snow-spectacles),  "  your  features  tell  me  that  you  are 
of  a  good  family,  therefore  you  must  be  a  high  officer  in 
your  country.  Your  noble  feelings  also  show  that  you 
would  not  have  us  punished  for  your  sake,  and  now  our 
hearts  are  glad  to  see  you  retrace  your  steps.  Let  me 
offer  you  these  boots,  so  that  your  feet  may  not  get  sore 
on  the  long  and  difficult  journey  back  to  your  native 
land." 

It  was  neatly  put,  though  the  mode  of  reasoning  was 

191 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

peculiar.  It  was  not  to  my  interest  to  disillusionize  the 
Tibetan  as  to  my  purpose,  so  I  accepted  the  boots.  The 
Magbun  and  his  guard  salaamed  to  the  ground. 

Without  further  parleying  we  left  the  Magbun,  and, 
retracing  our  steps,  proceeded  in  a  west-southwest  direc- 
tion, as  though  we  had  decided  to  turn  back  and  leave 
the  country. 


CHAPTER  XXX 

SPYING  OUR  MOVEMENTS  —  DISGUISED  SEPOVS  — A  GLOOMY  OUTLOOK- 
TROUBLESOME  FOLLOWERS  —  ANOTHER  MARCH  BACK  —  AN  A.MUSI  Mi 
INCIDENT 

WE  reached  the  summit  of  the  hill  and  crossed  to  the 
other  side.  My  men  went  on  down  the  slope,  but  I  re- 
mained, screened  by  a  large  stone,  to  observe  with  my 
telescope  the  folks  at  Gyanema.  No  sooner  had  my  last 
man  disappeared  on  the  other  side  of  the  pass  than  the 
cavalrymen  jumped  into  their  saddles,  and,  raising  clouds 
of  dust,  galloped  after  us.  This  was  what  I  had  expected. 
I  hastened  to  rejoin  my  men.  When  down  in  the  plain, 
I  again  took  my  telescope,  and  watched  the  sky-line  of 
the  hill  we  had  just  descended.  Some  thirty  heads  could 
be  seen  peeping  over  the  rocks  from  among  the  bowlders. 
The  soldiers  had  evidently  dismounted  and  were  spying 
our  movements.  I  felt  annoyed  that  they  did  not  openly 
follow  us,  if  they  so  wished,  instead  of  watching  us  from 
a  distance,  so  I  sighted  my  rifle  to  eight  hundred  yards, 
lay  down  flat,  and  took  aim  at  a  figure  I  could  see  more 
plainly  than  the  others. 

The  doctor  snatched  the  rifle  from  my  shoulder. 

"  You  must  not  shoot,"  said  he,  with  his  usual  calm- 
ness ;  "  you  might  kill  somebody." 

"  I  only  wish  to  teach  those  cowards  a  lesson." 

"  That  is  all  very  well.  But  every  man  in  Tibet  is  so 
cowardly  that  the  lesson  would  have  to  be  constantly  re- 
peated," answered  Wilson,  with  his  perpetual  wisdom. 

I  slung  my  rifle  over  my  shoulder  and  made  up  my 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

mind  to  start  some  other  time  on  the  cyclopean  task  I 
had  then  so  nearly  begun. 

When  we  had  covered  a  mile  or  so  of  the  plain,  our 
phantomlike  escort  crossed  the  pass,  and  came  full  gallop 
clown  the  hill.  I  gave  orders  to  my  men  to  halt,  seeing 
which  the  soldiers  also  came  to  a  dead  stop.  I  watched 
them  through  the  telescope.  They  seemed  to  be  holding 
a  discussion.  At  last  five  men  rode  full  speed  north- 
ward, probably  to  guard  the  track  in  that  direction. 
Three  men  remained  where  they  were,  and  the  remain- 
der, as  if  seized  by  panic,  galloped  frantically  up  the 
hill  again,  and  disappeared  over  the  summit. 

We  resumed  our  march.  The  three  horsemen  fol- 
lowed a  course  one  mile  south  of  ours,  close  against  the 
foot  of  the  hills,  and,  lying  low  upon  their  ponies'  heads, 
they  probably  imagined  that  they  were  passing  us  un- 
perceived.  Seeing  that  our  bearings  were  for  our  old 
camp  at  Lama  Chokden,  they  left  our  line  and  rode 
ahead  of  us. 

When  in  the  evening  we  reached  Lama  Chokden,  two 
shepherds  came  to  greet  us.  Then  another  appeared. 

"Our  sheep  are  far  away,"  said  they.  "We  are  hun- 
gry. We  are  poor.  Can  we  stop  near  your  camp  and 
pick  up  the  food  that  you  will  throw  away  ?" 

"  Certainly,"  I  replied.  "  But  mind  you  do  not  pick  up 
anything  else." 

These  simple  folk,  thinking  I  should  not  know  them, 
had  left  their  ponies  at  the  Lama  Chokden  guard-house, 
and,  disguised  as  shepherds,  they  were  now  trying  to  in- 
gratiate themselves  with  us,  with  the  object  of  discover- 
ing our  movements  and  plans.  They  were,  of  course,  no 
other  than  the  three  sepoys  from  Gyanema. 

At  each  step  in  our  retreat  towards  the  Himahlyas  my 
heart  became  heavier  and  my  spirits  more  depressed.  I 

194 


GLOOMY   OUTLOOK 

was  full  of  stratagems,  but  to  think  out  plans  and  to  carry 
them  into  effect  were  two  different  things. 

O 

How  many  times  had  not  my  schemes  been  upset  ?  How 
often  had  I  not  had  to  begin  afresh  when  all  seemed  ready 
and  in  perfect  working  order?  —  that,  too,  when  I  had 
plenty  of  good  material  at  my  disposal  to  work  upon. 
Now  things  had  changed  altogether  for  the  worse.  My 
chances  of  success,  notwithstanding  my  incessant  struggle, 
were  getting  smaller  and  smaller  every  day.  I  could  not 
but  feel  that  there  must  be  an  end  eventually  to  the  capa- 
bility and  endurance  of  my  followers  and  myself.  It  is 
hard  enough  to  start  on  a  difficult  task,  but  when  you  are 
well  started,  and  have  already  overcome  many  difficulties, 
to  have  to  come  back  and  begin  again  is  more  than  galling. 

The  outlook  was  dark  and  gloomy ;  I  stood  face  to  face 
with  apparent  failure,  and  uncertain  of  the  loyalty  of  my 
own  men. 

At  this  camp,  for  instance,  the  Dakti  (brigand),  who  had 
changed  his  disguise  several  times  since  coming  in  contact 
with  the  Tibetans,  announced  his  immediate  departure. 
The  doctor,  with  his  usual  kindness,  had  already  entreated 
him  to  remain,  but  without  avail.  We  well  knew  that  in 
this  region,  infested  by  dacoits,  this  man  was  only  leaving 
us  to  recommence  his  late  marauding  habits.  He  would, 
in  all  probability,  join  some  band,  and  without  much 
doubt  we  might  soon  expect  a  visit  during  the  darkest 
hours  of  the  night.  The  Daku  knew  that  I  carried  a 
large  sum  of  money,  and  during  the  last  two  days  his 
behavior  had  been  more  than  strange.  Had  he  come 
across  some  of  his  mates  ?  or  had  he  heard  from  the  sepoys 
that  they  were  in  the  neighborhood  ? 

The  Daku  had  a  bundle  of  his  blankets  strapped  on 
his  back  in  readiness  for  immediate  departure.  My  men, 
distressed  at  this  new  danger,  came  to  report  it  to  me. 

195 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

I  immediately  sent  for  him.  Speaking  bluntly,  and  keep- 
ing his  eyes  fixed  on  the  ground,  he  said,  "  I  am  going, 
sahib." 

"Where?"  I  inquired. 

"  I  have  friends  near  here,  and  I  am  goine:  to  them." 

o          o 

"Very  good,  go,"  I  replied,  calmly  taking  up  my  rifle. 

His  load  was  off  his  shoulder  in  less  time  than  it  takes 
to  describe  the  event.  He  resumed  his  work  as  usual. 
One  or  two  other  riotous  coolies  were  brought  back  to 
reason  by  similar  menaces. 

I  heard  later  that  a  band  of  brigands  attacked  a  party 
near  the  frontier  only  two  days  after  this  occurred. 

Another  march  back  !  How  painful  it  was  to  me !  Yet 
it  was  advisable.  We  went  a  few  miles  and  encamped  on 
the  bank  of  a  rapid  stream,  the  Shirlangdu.  From  this 
point,  with  some  difficulty  and  danger,  it  would  be  possible 
to  climb  over  the  mountain  range  during  the  night,  and 
attempt  to  elude  the  spies  and  watchmen  by  crossing  the 
jungle  to  Mansarowar.  I  made  up  my  mind  to  attempt 
this.  It  seemed  to  add  to  the  risk  to  have  so  large  a  fol- 
lowing as  my  thirty  men,  so  I  decided  that  only  four  or 
five  should  accompany  me.  Going  alone  was  impractica- 
ble, because  of  the  difficulty  of  carrying  sufficient  food,  or 
I  would  have  by  far  preferred  it.  Nevertheless,  if  the 
worst  came  to  the  worst,  I  resolved  to  attempt  this  latter 
mode  of  travelling,  and  rely  on  the  chance  of  obtaining 
food  from  Tibetans. 

All  the  loads  were  made  ready.  Articles  of  clothing 
and  comfort,  niceties  in  the  way  of  food,  and  extras  in  the 
way  of  medicines  were  left  behind  to  make  room  for  my 
scientific  instruments. 

Each  pound  in  weight  more  that  I  dedicated  to  science 
meant  a  pound  less  food  to  take  us  to  Lhassa.  Everything 
that  was  not  of  absolute  necessity  had  to  be  left. 

196 


T\VO    TIBETAN    SPIES 

Two  Tibetan  spies  came  to  camp  in  the  afternoon,  in 
the  disguise,  as  usual,  of  beggars.  They  asked  for  food, 
and  exacted  it.  Their  manner  was  unbearably  insulting. 
This  was  a  little  too  much  for  us,  and  Bijesing  the  Johari, 
and  Rubso  the  Christian  cook  were  the  first  to  enter  into 
an  open  fight  with  them.  They  punched  and  kicked  them, 
driving  them  down  a  steep  ravine  leading  to  a  river ;  then, 
assisted  by  other  men  in  camp,  showered  stones  upon 
them.  The  unfortunate  intruders,  unable  to  wade  quick- 
ly across  the  rapid  stream,  received  as  fine  a  reception  as 
they  deserved. 

This  little  skirmish  amused  the  camp,  but  many  of  the 
Shokas  and  Hunyas  in  my  service  were  still  scared  out  of 
their  wits.  It  was  quite  sufficient  for  them  to  see  a  Tib- 
etan to  crumble  into  nothing. 


CHAPTER   XXXI 

AN  ATTEMPT  THAT  FAILED — A  RESOLUTION — A  SMART  SHOKA  LAD — 
THE  PLUCKY  CHANDEN  SING  PROPOSES  TO  ACCOMPANY  ME — MANSING 
THE  LEPER  BECOMES  MY  SERVANT'S  SERVANT 

THE  hour  fixed  for  my  flight  was  9  P.M.  Five  men  had 
been  induced  to  follow  me  by  the  offer  of  a  handsome 
reward. 

At  the  hour  appointed  no  single  one  of  them  had  put 
in  an  appearance.  I  went  in  search  of  them.  One  man 
had  purposely  injured  his  feet  and  was  disabled,  another 
pretended  to  be  dying,  the  others  positively  refused  to 
come.  They  were  shivering  with  fright  and  cold. 

"  Kill  us,  sahib,  if  you  like,"  they  implored  of  me,  "  but 
we  will  not  follow  you." 

At  3  A.M.  all  attempts  to  get  even  one  man  to  carry  a. 
load  had  proved  futile.  I  had  to  abandon  the  idea  of 
starting. 

My  prospects  became  more  gloomy  than  ever.  An- 
other march  back  towards  the  cold  and  dreary  pass  by 
which  I  had  entered  Tibet ! 

"  You  are  depressed,  Mr.  Landor,"  remarked  the  doctor.. 

I  admitted  the  fact.  Every  step  backward  was  to  me 
like  a  stab  in  the  heart.  I  had  wished  to  push  on  at  all 
costs,  and  it  was  only  in  consideration  of  my  good  and 
kind  friend,  the  doctor,  that  I  had  reluctantly  refrained 
from  making  my  way  by  force.  My  blood  was  boiling.  I 
felt  feverish.  The  cowardice  of  my  men  made  them  ab- 
solutely contemptible,  and  I  could  not  bear  even  to  see 
them. 

198 


WHEN    STORMS    COME 

Immersed  in  my  thoughts,  I  walked  quickly  on,  and 
the  rugged  way  seemed  short  and  easy.  I  found  a  suit- 
able spot  for  our  next  camp.  Here,  before  me  and  on 
every  side,  stood  high  snowy  mountains;  there,  in  front, 
towered  that  same  Lumpiya  Pass  by  which  I  had  crossed 
into  Tibet  with  such  high  hopes.  I  detested  the  sight  of 
it  on  the  present  occasion ;  its  snowy  slopes  seemed  to 
mock  at  my  failure. 

Whether  it  is  that  storms  invariably  come  when  one  is 
depressed,  or  whether  one  gets  depressed  when  storms- 
are  coming,  I  am  not  here  prepared  to  say,  but  the  fact 
remains  that,  before  we  had  time  to  pitch  our  tents,  the 
wind,  which  had  been  high  all  through  the  afternoon,  in- 
creased tenfold.  The  clouds  above  were  wild  and  threat- 
ening, and  snow  soon  fell  in  feathery  flakes. 

"  What  are  you  going  to  do  ?"  inquired  the  doctor  of 
me.  "  I  think  you  had  better  return  to  Garbyang,  get 
fresh  men,  and  make  another  start." 

"  No,  doctor.  I  will  die  rather  than  continue  this  back- 
ward march.  There  will  be  a  far  better  chance  if  I  go- 
alone,  and  I  have  resolved  to  start  to-night,  for  I  am  con- 
vinced that  I  shall  find  my  way  over  the  range." 

"  No,  no,  it  is  impossible,  Mr.  Landor,"  cried  the  doctor, 
with  tears  in  his  eyes.  "  That  must  mean  death  to  any 
one  attempting  it." 

I  told  him  that  I  was  quite  determined. 

The  poor  doctor  was  dumfounded.  He  knew  that  it 
was  useless  to  try  to  dissuade  me.  I  went  into  the  tent 
to  rearrange  and  reduce  my  baggage,  making  a  load  small 
enough  to  carry  on  my  back,  in  addition  to  the  daily  kit 
and  instruments. 

While  I  was  making  preparations  for  my  journey, 
Kachi  Ram  entered  the  tent.  He  looked  frightened  and 

perplexed. 

199 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

"What  are  you  doing,  sir?"  inquired  he,  hurriedly. 
"  The  doctor  says  you  are  going  to  leave  alone  to-night, 
cross  the  mountain  range,  and  go  to  Lhassa  by  yourself." 

"  Yes,  that  is  true." 

"Oh,  sir!  The  perils  and  dangers  are  too  great,  you 
cannot  go." 

"  I  know,  but  I  am  going  to  try." 

"  Oh,  sir !     Then  I  will  come  with  you." 

"  No,  Kachi.  You  will  suffer  too  much.  Go  back  to 
your  father  and  mother  now  that  you  have  the  oppor- 
tunity." 

"  No,  sir ;  where  you  go,  I  will  go.  Small  men  never 
suffer.  If  they  do  it  does  not  matter.  Only  great  men's 
sufferings  are  worth  noticing.  If  you  surfer,  I  will  suffer. 
I  will  come." 

Kachi's  philosophy  touched  me.  I  ascertained  beyond 
doubt  that  he  meant  what  he  said,  and  then  decided  to 
take  him. 

This  was  a  piece  of  luck.  Kachi  Ram  had  five  bosom 
friends  among  the  young  Shoka  coolies.  They  were  all 
friends  of  the  Rambang,  and  in  the  evenings  in  camp  they 
often  used  to  join  and  sing  weird  songs  in  honor  of  the 
fair  maids  of  their  hearts,  whom  they  had  left  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Himahlyas. 

Kachi  hurried  away  in  a  state  of  feverish  excitement. 
He  was  back  in  a  few  minutes. 

"  How  many  coolies  will  you  take,  sir?" 

"  None  will  come." 

"Oh,  I  will  get  them.     Will  five  do?" 

"  Yes,"  I  murmured,  incredulously. 

My  scepticism  sustained  a  shock  when  Kachi  returned, 
buoyant,  saying  in  his  peculiar  English : 

"  Five  Shokas  come,  sir.  Then  you,  sir,  I,  sir,  five 
coolies,  sir,  start  night-time,  what  clock?" 

200 


CHARACTER   OF    KACHI    RAM 

"  By  Jove,  Kachi,"  I  could  not  help  exclaiming,  "  you 
are  a  smart  lad  !" 

"  '  Smart,'  sir?"  inquired  he,  sharply,  hearing  a  new  word. 
He  was  most  anxious  to  learn  English,  and  he  had  a  mania 
for  spelling.  "'Smart!'  What  is  meaning?  How  spell?" 

"  S-m-a-r-t.     It  means  '  quick,  intelligent.'  " 

"  Smart,"  he  repeated  solemnly,  as  he  wrote  the  newly 
acquired  word  into  a  book  which  I  had  given  him  for  the 
purpose.  Kachi  was  undoubtedly,  in  spite  of  some  small 
faults,  a  great  character.  He  was  a  most  intelligent, 
sharp,  well-meaning  fellow.  His  never-failing  good- 
humor  and  his  earnest  desire  to  learn  and  to  be  useful 
were  quite  refreshing. 

My  luck  seemed  to  have  turned  indeed.  A  few  min- 
utes later  my  bearer,  quite  unaware  that  any  one  would 
accompany  me,  entered  the  tent,  and  exclaimed  in  a  dis- 
gusted manner: 

"  Shoka  crab,  sahib !  Hunya  log  bura  crab.  Hazur 
hum,  do  admi  jaldi  Lhasa  giao"  (The  Shokas  are  bad. 
The  Hunyas  are  very  bad.  Your  honor  and  I,  we  two 
alone,  will  go  quickly  by  ourselves  to  Lhassa.) 

Here  was  another  plucky  and  useful  man  anxious  to 
come.  He  professed  to  have  no  fear  of  death.  He  was 
the  type  of  man  I  wanted.  How  true  the  poor  fellow's 
protestations  were  I  learned  at  a  later  date. 

Chanden  Sing  was  a  man  of  strong  sporting  proclivi- 
ties. His  happiness  was  complete  when  he  could  fire  his 
rifle  at  something,  though  he  was  never  known  to  hit  the 
mark.  He  had  been  severely  reprimanded  and  punished 
by  me  only  a  few  days  before  for  wasting  several  car- 
tridges on  kiang  (wild  horse)  three  miles  distant.  Ordi- 
nary work,  however,  such  as  doing  his  own  cooking  or 
keeping  my  things  tidy,  was  distasteful  to  him,  and  was 
invariably  passed  on  to  others, 
i. — Q  201 


IN   THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Mansing  the  leper,  being  unfortunately  of  the  same 
caste  as  Chanden  Sing,  became  my  servant's  servant. 
The  two  Hindoos  constantly  quarrelled  and  fought,  but 
at  heart  they  were  the  best  of  friends.  The  bearer,  by 
means  of  promises,  mingled  at  intervals  with  blows,  event- 
ually succeeded  in  inducing  his  protege  to  join  in  our  new 
plan  and  face  with  us  the  unknown  dangers  ahead. 


CHAPTER  -XXXII 

"DEVIL'S  CAMP"— A  FIERCE  SNOW-STORM— ABANDONING  OUR  TENTS- 
DANGERS  AND  PERILS  IN  PROSPECT— COLLECTING  THE  MEN— ONE 
LOAD  TOO  MANY  ! — ANOTHER  MAN  WANTED  AND  FOUND— A  PRO- 
PITIOUS NIGHT — GOOD-BYE  TO  WILSON — THE  ESCAPE — BRIGANDS 

BY  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  I  had  collected  all  the 
men  who  had  promised  to  follow  me.  They  comprised  my 
bearer,  Kachi,  and  six  coolies. 

We  named  this  camp  "  Devil's  Camp,"  for  diabolical  in- 
deed was  the  wind  that  shook  our  tents,  not  to- speak  of 
the  snow  blown  into  our  shelters  by  the  raging  storm. 
During  the  night  the  wind  grew  in  fury.  Neither  wood, 
dung,  nor  lichen  for  fuel  was  to  be  found.  Our  tents  were 
pitched  at  16,900  feet  above  sea-level,  and  to  ascend  to 
the  summit  of  the  range  would  mean  a  farther  climb  of 
two  thousand  feet.  In  such  weather  the  difficulties  of 
the  ascent  were  increased  tenfold,  though  for  evading  the 
vigilance  of  the  Tibetan  watchmen,  who  spied  upon  our 
movements,  we  could  have  no  better  chance  than  a  dirty 
niorht  like  this.  I  arranged  with  the  doctor  that  he  was 

o  o 

to  take  back  to  Garbyang  all  the  baggage  I  had  discarded 
and  the  men  who  had  declined  to  follow  me.  He  must 
display  all  our  tents  until  in  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day, 
so  as  to  let  the  Tibetans  suppose  that  we  were  all  under 
them,  and  give  me  time  to  make  a  long  forced  march  be- 
fore they  could  get  on  our  track.  Hard  as  it  would  be 
for  us  going  forward,  we  would  take  no  tent  except  the 
small  tente  d'abri,  weighing  about  four  pounds.  We  should, 
anyhow,  be  unable  to  pitch  one  for  several  days,  for  fear  of 

203 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

being  detected  by  the  Tibetans,  who  would  be  soon  seen 
abroad  in  search  of  us.  We  should  have  to  march  long 
distances  at  night,  keeping  mostly  on  the  summit  of  the 
range,  instead  of  proceeding,  like  other  travellers,  along 
the  valleys,  and  we  must  get  what  little  sleep  we  could 
during  the  day,  when  we  could  hide  in  some  secluded  spot. 
The  thought  of  seeing  a  fire  had  to  be  abandoned  for  an 
indefinite  period,  because,  even  in  the  remote  contingency 
of  our  finding  fuel  at  the  great  altitudes  where  we  should 
have  to  camp,  every  one  knows  that  a  fire  and  a  column 
of  smoke  can  be  seen  at  a  very  great  distance,  both  by 
day  and  night.  \Ve  pondered  and  discussed  all  these 
matters  before  we  made  a  start,  and,  moreover,  we  were 
fully  aware  that,  if  the  Tibetans  could  once  lay  their  hands 
upon  us,  our  numbers  were  too  small  to  offer  a  stout  re- 
sistance, and  we  might  well  give  ourselves  up  for  lost.  In 
fact,  taking  things  all  round,  I  rather  doubted  whether  the 
lives  of  my  few  followers  and  my  own  were  worth  more 
than  a  song  from  the  moment  of  our  leaving  "  Devil's 
Camp." 

WTith  this  full  knowledge  of  what  we  were  undertaking, 
we  may  have  been  foolish  in  starting  at  all,  but  lack  of 
determination  cannot  in  fairness  be  credited  as  one  of  our 
faults. 

The  thoughtful  doctor  had  brought  with  him  from  our 
last  camp  a  few  lichens,  with  which  he  was  now  attempt- 
ing to  light  a  fire,  to  cook  me  a  few  chapatis  before 
leaving.  Alas!  four  hours'  hard  work  and  an  equal  num- 
ber of  boxes  of  matches  failed  to  produce  the  semblance 
of  a  flame. 

At  midnight  I  sent  Chanden  Sing  and  Kachi  to  collect 
the  men.  Two  came  trembling  into  the  tent ;  the  others 
could  not  be  roused.  I  went  myself  and  took  them,  one 
by  one,  to  their  loads.  They  were  all  cryiiig  like  children. 

204 


It  was  then  that  I  discovered  that  in  the  haste  and  confu- 
sion I  had  made  one  load  too  many.  Here  was  a  dilemma! 
Everything  was  ready  and  propitious  for  our  flight,  and  a 
delay  at  this  juncture  was  fatal.  At  any  cost,  I  must  have 
another  man. 

The  moans  and  groans  in  the  coolies'  tent,  when  I  went 
in  search  of  one,  were  pitiful.  You  would  have  thought 
that  they  were  all  going  to  die  within  a  few  minutes,  and 
that  they  were  now  in  their  last  agonies,  all  because  of  the 
terror  of  being  picked  out  to  follow  me. 

At  last,  after  endless  trouble,  threats,  and  promises, 
Bijesing  the  Johari  was  persuaded  to  come.  But  the 
load  was  too  heavy  for  him ;  he  would  only  carry  half.  To 
save  trouble,  I  agreed  I  would  carry  the  other  half  myself 
in  addition  to  my  own  load. 

We  put  out  our  hurricane-lantern,  and  at  2  P.M.,  when 
the  gale  was  raging  at  its  height,  driving  the  grit  and  snow 
like  spikes  into  our  faces,  when  the  wind  and  cold  seemed 
to  penetrate  with  biting  force  to  the  marrow  of  our  bones, 
when,  as  it  seemed,  all  the  gods  were  giving  vent  to  their 
anger  by  putting  every  obstacle  in  our  way,  a  handful  of 
silent  men,  half  frozen  and  staggering,  left  the  camp  to  face 
the  blizzard.  I  ordered  my  men  to  keep  close  together,  and 
we  made  immediately  for  the  mountain-side,  taking  care 
to  avoid  the  places  where  we  supposed  the  Tibetan  spies 
were  posted. 

We  could  not  have  selected  a  more  suitable  night  for 
our  escape.  It  was  so  dark  that  we  could  only  see  a  few 
inches  in  front  of  our  noses.  The  doctor,  silent  and  with  , 
a  swelling  heart,  accompanied  me  for  a  couple  of  hundred 
yards.  I  urged  him  to  return  to  the  tent.  He  stopped 
to  grasp  my  hand,  and  in  a  broken  voice  the  good  man 
bade  me  farewell  and  God-speed. 

"  The  dangers  of  your  journey,"  whispered  Wilson,  "  are 

205 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

so  great  and  so  numerous  that  God  alone  can  guide  you 
through.  When  I  think  of  the  cold,  hunger,  and  hard- 
ships you  will  have  to  endure,  I  can  but  tremble  for  you." 

"  Good-bye,  doctor,"  said  I,  deeply  moved. 

"  Good-bye,"  he  repeated,  "  good — "  and  his  voice  failed 
him. 

Two  or  three  steps  and  the  darkness  separated  us,  but 
his  touching  words  of  farewell  rang  and  echoed  in  my  ears, 
as  with  sadness  I  remembered  the  loyalty  and  cheerful 
kindness  of  this  good  friend.  The  journey  towards  Lhassa 
had  recommenced  in  grim  earnest.  In'a  short  while  our 
ears,  fingers,  and  toes  were  almost  frozen,  and  the  fast- 
driving  snow  beat  mercilessly  against  our  faces,  making 
our  eyes  ache.  We  proceeded  like  so  many  blind  people, 
speechless  and  exhausted,  rising  slowly  higher  on  the 
mountain  range,  and  feeling  our  way  with  our.  feet.  As 
we  reached  greater  altitudes  it  grew  still  colder,  and 
the  wind  became  more  piercing.  Every  few  minutes 
we  were  compelled  to  halt  and  sit  close  together  in 
order  to  keep  warm  and  get  breath,  as  the  air  was  so 
rarefied  that  we  could  barely  proceed  under  our  heavy 
loads. 

We  heard  a  whistle,  and  sounds  like  distant  voices.  My 
men  collected  round  me,  whispered  "  Dakus !  dakus  /" 
(Brigands !  brigands !)  and  then  threw  themselves  flat  on 
the  snow.  I  loaded  my  rifle  and  went  ahead,  but  it  was 
vain  to  hope  to  pierce  the  obscurity.  I  hearkened.  Yet 
another  shrill  whistle ! 

My  Shokas  were  terrified.  The  sound  seemed  to 
come  from  straight  in  front  of  us.  We  slightly  altered 
our  course,  winning  our  way  upward  slowly  and  steadily, 
until  we  found  at  sunrise  we  were  near  the  mountain- 
top.  It  was  still  snowing  hard.  One  final  effort  brought 
us  to  the  plateau  on  the  summit. 

206 


AN    EXPOSED   CAMP 

Here  we  felt  comparatively  safe.  Thoroughly  ex- 
hausted, we  deposited  our  burdens  on  the  snow,  and  laid 
ourselves  down  in  a  row  close  to  one  another  to  keep 
ourselves  warm,  piling  on  the  top  of  us  all  the  blankets, 
available. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII 

SOUTHEAST  WIND— HUNGRY  AND  HALF  FROZEN— LAKES  AT  18,960  FEET 
ABOVE  SEA- LEVEL  — COLD  FOOD  AT  HIGH  ALTITUDES  —  BURIED  IN 
SNOW— MANSING'S  SUFFERINGS— FUEL  AT  LAST 

AT  i  P.M.  we  woke  up,  drenched  to  the  skin,  the  sun 
having  thawed  the  thick  coating  of  snow  over  us.  This 
camp  was  at  18,000  feet.  The  wind  from  the  southeast 
cut  like  a  knife,  and  we  suffered  from  it,  not  only  on  this 
occasion,  but  every  day  during  the  whole  time  we  were 
in  Tibet.  It  begins  to  blow  with  great  fierceness  and 
regularity  at  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  it  is  only 
at  about  eight  in  the  evening  that  it  sometimes  abates 
and  gradually  ceases.  Frequently,  however,  the  wind,  in- 
stead of  dropping  at  this  time,  increases  in  violence, 
blowing  with  terrible  vehemence  during  the  whole  night. 
As  we  were  making  ready  to  start  again,  with  limbs 
cramped  and  stiff,  the  sky  again  became  suddenly  covered 
with  heavy  gray  clouds,  and  fresh  snow  fell.  There  was 
no  possibility  of  making  a  fire,  so  we  started  hungry  and 
half  frozen,  following  a  course  of  70°  (b.  m.).  We  waded 
up  to  our  waists  through  a  freezingly  cold  stream,  and, 
climbing  steadily  higher  and  higher  for  six  miles,  we  at 
last  reached  another  and  loftier  plateau  to  the  northeast 
of  the  one  where  we  had  camped  in  the  morning.  The 
altitude  was  18,960  feet,  and  we  were  surprised  to  find 
four  lakes  of  considerable  size  close  to  one  another  on 
this  high  table-land.  The  sun,  breaking  for  a  moment 
through  the  clouds,  shone  on  the  snow-covered  tops  of 

208 


COLD    FOOD  AT    HIGH   ALTITUDES 

the  surrounding  mountains,  silvering  the  water  of  the 
lakes,  and  making  a  beautiful  and  spectacular  picture, 
wild  and  fascinating  in  effect. 

O 

Hunger  and  exhaustion  prevented  full  appreciation  of 
the  scene ;  nothing  could  stand  in  the  way  of  quickly 
finding  a  suitable  place  to  rest  our  weak  and  jaded  bod- 
ies, under  the  shelter  of  the  higher  hills  round  the  pla- 
teau, or  in  some  depression  in  the  ground.  I  was  anx- 
ious to  push  across  the  plateau,  and  descend  on  the 
northeast  side  to  some  lower  altitude  where  we  should 
more  probably  find  fuel,  but  my  men,  half  starved  and 
fagged,  could  go  no  farther.  Their  wet  loads  were  con- 
siderably heavier  than  usual,  they  panted  terribly  owing 
to  the  great  altitude,  and  no  sooner  had  we  come  to  a 
partially  sheltered  spot  between  the  larger  lake  and  its 
most  eastern  neighboring  sheet  of  water  than  they  all 
collapsed  and  were  unable  to  proceed.  I  was  much  con- 
cerned about  them,  as  they  refused  to  take  any  cold  food, 
saying  it  would  cause  their  death.  I  was  really  at  a  loss 
to  see  how  they  could  recover  sufficient  strength  for  the 
next  day's  marching.  Eventually,  by  personally  pledg- 
ing them  that  they  would  not  die,  I  persuaded  them  to 
eat  a  little  satoo  and  ghur.  Unfortunately,  no  sooner  had 
they  eaten  some  of  it,  mixed  with  cold  water,  than  nearly 
all  were  seized  with  violent  pains  in  their  stomachs,  from 
which  they  suffered  for  the  greater  part  of  the  night. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  experience  had  taught  them 
that  eating  cold  food  at  great  altitudes  is  more  dangerous 
than  eating  no  food  at  all,  and  I  regretted  my  ill-timed,  if 
kindly  meant,  advice.  One  is  apt  to  judge  other  people 
by  one's  self,  and  personally  I  never  felt  any  difference 
whether  my  food  was  cold  or  hot. 

Soon  after  sunset  the  cold  was  intense.  It  was  still 
snowing  hard,  and  our  wet  garments  and  blankets  were 

209 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

now  freezing.  I  lighted  a  small  spirit-lamp,  round  which 
we  all  sat  close  together  and  covered  over  with  our 
frozen  wraps.  I  even  attempted  to  cook  on  the  flame 
some  concentrated  broth,  but,  owing  to  the  high  altitude,, 
the  water  was  a  long  time  losing  its  chill,  apart  from 
boiling,  and  when  it  was  just  getting  tepid  the  flame 
went  out,  and  I  could  afford  no  more  spirits  of  wine  to 
light  it  again  ;  so  the  cooking  had  to  be  abandoned,  and 
as  the  night  grew  colder  and  colder  we  huddled  together 
under  our  respective  blankets  in  a  vain  attempt  to  sleep. 
We  had  made  a  protecting  wall  with  our  baggage,  and 
my  men  covered  their  heads  and  everything  with  their 
blankets ;  but  I  never  could  adopt  their  style  of  sleeping, 
as  it  seemed  to  suffocate  me.  I  always  slept  with  my 
head  uncovered,  for  not  only  was  it  more  comfortable, 
but  I  wished  to  be  on  the  alert  should  we  at  any  time  be 
surprised  by  Tibetans.  My  men  moaned,  groaned,  and 
chattered  their  teeth  convulsively  during  the  night.  I 
woke  many  times  with  a  bad  pain  in  my  ears  from  frost- 
bite ;  my  eyes,  too,  suffered  as  the  eyelashes  became  cov- 
ered with  icicles.  Every  time  I  tried  to  open  them  there 
was  an  uncomfortable  feeling  as  if  the  eyelashes  were 
being  torn  off,  for  the  slit  of  the  eye  became  fast  frozen 
directly  the  lids  were  closed. 

At  last  the  morning  came !  The  night  had  seemed 
endless.  When  I  tried  to  raise  the  blanket  in  order  to- 
sit  up,  it  seemed  of  an  extraordinary  weight  and  stiffness. 
No  wonder !  It  was  frozen  hard,  and  as  rigid  as  card- 
board, covered  over  with  a  foot  of  snow.  The  thermom- 
eter during  the  night  had  gone  down  to  24°.  I  called  my 
men.  They  were  hard  to  wake,  and  they,  too,  were  bur- 
ied in  snow. 

"  Ufa  !  uta  !  uta  /"  (Get  up !  get  up !  get  up !)  I  called,  shak- 
ing one  by  one,  and  brushing  off  as  much  snow  as  I  could. 

210 


BURIED    IN    SNOW 

"Baroff  bahut"  (There  is  much  snow)  remarked  one 
as  he  put  his  nose  outside  his  blanket  and  rubbed  his  eyes, 
smarting  from  the  white  glare  around  us.  "  Salaam,  sa- 
hib," added  he,  as,  having  overcome  his  first  surprise, 
he  perceived  me,  and  he  waved  his  hand  gracefully  up  to 
his  forehead. 

The  others  behaved  in  a  similar  manner.  Kachi  was, 
as  usual,  the  last  one  to  wake. 

"  Oh,  Kachi,"  I  shouted,  "get  up!" 

"  Oh,  bahiyok  /"  (Oh,  father!)  yawned  he,  stretching  his 
arms.  Half  asleep,  half  awake,  he  looked  round  as  if  in  a 
trance,  muttering  incoherent  words. 

"  Good-morning,  sir.  Oh,  much  snow.  Oh,  look,  sir, 
two  kiangs  there!  What  is  k  kiang '  in  English?" 

"  Wild  horse." 

" '  Wild  '  you  spell  w-i-l-d  ?" 

"  Yes. 

Here  the  note-book  was  produced  from  under  his  pil- 
low and  the  word  registered  in  it. 

Odd  creatures  these  Shokas !  The  average  European, 
half  starved  and  frozen,  would  hardly  give  much  thought 
to  exact  spelling. 

Poor  Mansing  the  leper  suffered  terribly.  He  groaned 
through  the  whole  night.  I  had  given  him  one  of  my 
wrappers,  but  his  circulation  seemed  suspended.  His 
face  was  gray  and  cadaverous,  with  deep  lines  drawn  by 
suffering,  and  his  feet  were  so  frozen  that  for  some  time 
he  could  not  stand. 

Again  the  Shokas  would  eat  nothing,  for  snow  was  still 
falling.  We  started  towards  the  northeast.  After  a  mile 
of  flat  we  began  a  steep  descent  over  unpleasant  loose 
debris  and  sharp  rocks.  The  progress  was  rapid  but  very 
painful.  Scouring  the  country  below  with  my  telescope, 
I  perceived  shrubs  and  lichens  far  down  in  the  valley  to 

211 


the  northeast,  and  also  a  tent  and  some  sheep.  This  was 
unfortunate,  for  we  had  to  alter  our  course  in  order  not 
to  be  seen.  We  again  climbed  up  to  the  top  of  the  plateau 
and  rounded  unperceived  the  mountain  summit,  striking 
a  more  easterly  route.  Towards  sunset  we  began  our 
descent  from  the  latter  point,  and  we  crossed  the  river 
with  no  great  difficulty.  Having  selected  a  nicely  shel- 
tered depression  in  the  ground,  we  pitched  my  little  tente 
^Cabri  there,  by  the  side  of  a  pond  of  melted  snow.  With 
natural  eagerness  we  all  set  out  collecting  lichens  and 
shrubs  for  our  fires,  and  each  man  carried  into  camp 
several  loads  of  the  drier  fuel.  In  a  moment  there  were 
three  big  fires  blazing,  and  not  only  were  we  able  to  cook 
a  specially  abundant  dinner  and  drown  our  past  troubles 
in  a  bucketful  of  boiling  tea,  but  we  also  managed  to  dry 
our  clothes  and  blankets.  The  relief  of  this  warmth  was 
wonderful,  and  in  our  comparative  happiness  we  forgot 
the  hardships  and  sufferings  we  had  so  far  encountered. 
With  the  exception  of  a  handful  of  satoo,  this  was  the  first 
solid  meal  we  had  had  for  forty-eight  hours.  In  those 
two  days  we  had  travelled  twenty  miles,  each  of  us  carry- 
ing a  weight  averaging  considerably  over  sixty  pounds. 

We  were  at  16,500  feet,  which  seemed  quite  a  low  eleva- 
tion after  our  colder  and  loftier  camping-grounds.  The 
reaction  was  quite  pleasant,  and  for  myself  I  contem- 
plated our  future  plans  and  possibilities  with  better  hope. 
The  outlook  had  changed  from  our  deepest  depression  to 
a  condition  of  comparative  cheerfulness  and  content. 


CHAPTER   XXXIV 

DACOITS  —  NO  NONSENSE  ALLOWED — A  MUCH-FREQUENTED  REGION  — 
A  PLATEAU— THE  GYANEMA-TAKLAKOT  TRACK— A  DANGEROUS  SPOT 
— SOLDIERS  WAITING  FOR  US  —  BURYING  OUR  BAGGAGE — OUT  OF 
PROVISIONS— A  FALL  INTO  THE  GAKKON  RIVER— A  BRIGHT  IDEA- 
NETTLES  OUR  DIET 

Ix  front  of  us,  to  the  northeast,  was  a  high  mountain, 
then,  farther  towards  the  east,  a  narrow  valley  between 
two  hill  ranges,  while  at  238°  (b.  m.)  a  river  passed  through 
a  picturesque  gorge  in  the  direction  of  the  Mangshan 
Mountain. 

It  was  necessary  for  me  to  proceed  along  the  valley  to 
the  east,  as  we  should  thus  save  ourselves  much  trouble, 
time,  and  exertion,  though  there  would  be  some  risk  of 
our  meeting  Tibetans,  especially  bands  of  dacoits,  with 
whom  this  part  of  Nari  Khorsum*  is  infested.  We  had, 
therefore,  to  proceed  cautiously,  especially  as  my  Shokas 
seemed  no  less  timid  and  afraid  of  these  folks.  We  had 
hardly  gone  half  a  mile  over  the  undulating  country,  and 
I  had  stopped  behind  my  men  to  take  some  observations 
with  my  prismatic  compass,  when  my  carriers  suddenly 
threw  themselves  flat  on  the  ground  and  began  to  retreat, 
crawling  on  hands  and  knees. 

O  t 

" Daku!  DakuT  ( Brigands!  brigands!)  they  whispered 
as  I  got  near  them. 

It  was  too  late.  We  had  been  seen,  and  a  number  of 
dacoits,  armed  with  matchlocks  and  swords,  came  rapid- 

*  Nari  Khorsum— name  of  that  province. 
I.— R  213 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

ly  towards  us.  It  has  always  been  my  experience  that, 
in  such  cases,  the  worst  thing  to  do  is  to  run  away,  for 
nothing  encourages  a  man  more  than  to  see  that  his  op- 
ponent is  afraid  of  him.  I  therefore  loaded  my  Mann- 
licher,  and  my  bearer  did  likewise  with  the  Martini- 
Henry.  I  gave  orders  to  the  Shokas  to  squat  down  by 


SHEEP    CARRYING    LOAD 


their  respective  loads  and  not  stir  an  inch.  We  two 
strolled  towards  the  fast-approaching  band,  now  less  than 
a  hundred  yards  distant.  I  shouted  to  them  to  stop,  and 
Chanden  Sing  signalled  that  they  must  go  back ;  but 
they  took  no  notice  of  our  warnings,  and  came  on  all  the 
faster  towards  us.  Undoubtedly  they  thought  that  we 
were  only  Shoka  traders,  and  looked,  from  experience,  to 
find  an  easy  prey.  Making  ready  to  rush  us  as  soon  as 
they  got  near  enough,  they  separated  with  the  obvious 
intention  of  taking  us  on  all  sides. 

"Dushu!    Dus/iuf"   (Go    back!    Go    back!)    I    cried 

214 


DACOITS    PUT    TO    FLIGHT 

angrily  at  them,  raising  my  rifle  to  my  shoulder  and  taking 
a  steady  aim  at  the  leader.  Chanden  Sing  followed  suit 
with  one  of  the  others,  and  this  seemed  to  have  a  salutary 
effect  on  them,  for  they  immediately  made  a  comical  sa- 
laam and  took  to  their  heels,  Chanden  Sing  and  I  pur- 
suing them  for  some  distance  so  as  to  get  them  well  out 
of  our  way.  Having  occupied  a  prominent  position  on  a 
small  mound,  we  discovered  that  a  short  way  off  they  had 
a  number  of  mates  and  some  three  thousand  sheep,  pre- 
sumably their  last  loot.  We  signalled  that  they  must 
get  away  from  our  course,  and  eventually,  driving  their 
booty  before  them,  they  scurried  off  in  the  direction  I 
indicated.  When  they  were  well  clear  of  us,  and  my 
Shokas,  who  thought  their  last  hour  had  come,  had 
partly  recovered  from  their  fright,  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey,  entering  the  narrow  valley  between  the  two  hill 
ranges.  That  we  were  now  in  a  much -frequented  re- 
gion could  be  plainly  seen  from  the  numerous  camping- 
grounds  alongside  the  stream.  But  our  success  of  the 
morning  had  raised  our  spirits,  and  we  stepped  out 
cheerily,  keeping  to  the  left  bank.  A  steepish  climb 
brought  us  to  a  plateau  at  an  altitude  of  16,400  feet, 
from  which  we  obtained  a  fine  view  of  the  snow  range 
running  from  east  to  west  from  the  Mansrshan  Moun- 

O  O 

tain  to  the  Lippu  Pass,  and  beyond  to  the  northeast  the 
four  lofty  peaks  of  Nimo  Nangil,  25,360  feet,  22,200  feet, 
22,850  feet,  22,670  feet.  The  highest  peaks  were  at  84°, 
92°,  117°  (b.  m.).  This  plateau  sloped  gently,  and  was 
broken  by  many  deep  crevasses,  conveying  the  water-flow 
down  into  the  Gakkon  River. 

On  the  lower  portion  of  this  plateau,  and  then  along 
the  course  of  the  river,  a  track  ran  from  Gyanema  to 
Jaklakot  via  Kardam  and  Dogmar,  and  another  seldom- 
frequented  track  to  Mangshan,  south -southwest  of  this 

215 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

place.  The  edge  of  the  plateau  was  15,800  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  the  river  550  feet  lower. 

This  was  for  us  a  very  dangerous  spot,  since,  no  doubt, 
by  this  time  the  Tibetans  must  be  aware  that  I  had  es- 
caped and  was  well  on  my  way  into  their  country.  I 
knew  that  soldiers  and  spies  must  be  guarding  all  the 
tracks  and  searching  for  us.  This  thoroughfare,  being 
more  frequented  than  the  others,  was  all  the  more  inse- 
cure, and  we  had  to  display  great  caution  in  order  to 
avoid  detection.  In  Tibet,  I  may  here  note,  the  atmos- 
phere is  so  clear  that  moving  objects  can  be  plainly  seen 
at  exceptionally  long  distances.  I  scoured  the  country 
with  my  telescope,  but  I  could  see  no  one,  so  we  went  on. 
However,  my  men  considered  it  safer  to  descend  into 
one  of  the  numerous  creeks,  where  we  should  be  less  ex- 
posed, but  we  had  hardly  reached  the  border  of  it  when 
we  heard  noises  rising  from  the  valley  below. 

Crawling  on  our  stomachs,  my  bearer  and  I  peeped 
over  the  edge  of  the  plateau.  Some  five  hundred  feet 
below  was  a  Tibetan  encampment,  with  a  number  of  yaks 
and  ponies  grazing.  Unnoticed,  I  watched  them  for 
some  time.  There  were  several  soldiers,  most  probably 
posted  there  on  the  lookout  for  me.  With  my  glass  I 
recognized  some  of  the  Gyanema  men.  We  deemed  it 
advisable  to  find  a  spot  where  we  could  hide  until  night 
came.  Then,  making  a  detour,  we  descended  to  the 
river,  15,250  feet,  scrambled  across  in  the  dark,  and  made 
our  way  up  a  narrow  gorge  between  high  cliffs  until  we 
came  to  a  well-hidden  spot,  where  I  called  a  halt.  Fol- 
lowed by  my  men,  I  climbed  up  from  rock  to  rock  on  the 
cliff  to  our  left,  and  found  a  small  natural  platform,  shel- 
tered by  a  huge  bowlder  projecting  over  it.  This  seemed 
a  safe  enough  spot  for  us  to  stop.  We  dared  not  put  up 
a  tent,  and  we  took  the  precaution  of  burying  all  our 

216 


OUT   OF   PROVISIONS 

baggage  in  case  of  a  surprise  during  the  night.  Un- 
hampered, we  should  at  any  moment  be  able  to  hide  our- 
selves away  from  our  pursuers  or  run  before  them,  and 
we  could  always  come  back  afterwards  for  our  things  if 
an  opportunity  offered  itself. 

And  now,  just  as  everything  seemed  to  be  running 
smoothly,  I  made  a  terrible  discovery.  At  this  stage  of 
the  journey,  when  it  was  important  for  me  to  move  very 
rapidly,  I  found  that  we  were  out  of  provisions.  This 
was  indeed  an  unpleasant  surprise,  for  before  leaving  the 
larger  body  of  my  expedition  I  had  given  orders  to  my 
men  to  take  food  for  ten  days.  The  doctor,  who  had 
been  deputed  to  see  to  this,  had  assured  me  that  the 
loads  contained  quite  enough  to  last  us  over  that  length 
of  time,  and  now  for  some  unaccountable  reason  we 
had  only  sufficient  food  for  one  meagre  meal.  More- 
over, I  discovered  that  we  had  only  a  few  grains  of  salt 
left. 

"  What  have  you  done  with  it  ?"  I  inquired,  angrily,  as 
it  immediately  flashed  across  my  mind  that  there  had 
been  foul  play  among  my  carriers.  I  had  ordered  each 
man  to  take  half  a  seer  (one  pound)  of  salt. 

"  Yes,  sahib,  but  we  forgot  to  take  it,"  said  the  men  in 
a  chorus. 

After  the  terrible  hardships  and  fatigue  we  had  gone 
through,  and  the  anxiety  and  difficulty  of  carrying  on  my 
surveying,  photography,  sketching,  writing,  collecting, 
etc.,  under  conditions  of  unusual  discomfort  and  risk,  it 
was  indeed  a  hard  blow  to  me  to  see  all  my  plans  thus 
unexpectedly  frustrated,  for  we  were  still  three  or  four 
days'  journey  from  Mansarowar,  where  I  relied  on  getting 
fresh  supplies.  Having  come  thus  far,  should  I  be  com- 
pelled now  to  go  back  or  give  in,  and  be  captured  by 
the  Tibetan  soldiers  whom  I  had  so  successfully  evaded  ? 

217 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Though  not  usually  much  affected  by  physical  pain,  I 
unfortunately  suffer  greatly  under  any  mental  stress.  I 
felt  quite  ill  and  depressed,  and,  to  add  bodily  discomfort 
to  my  moral  sufferings,  was  the  fact  that  I  had  slipped, 
while  jumping  in  semi -darkness  from  stone  to  stone 
across  the  Gakkon  River,  and  had  fallen  flat  into  about 
four  feet  of  water.  The  wind  was  very  high  at  the  time, 
and  the  thermometer  down  to  26°,  so  that,  sitting  in  my 
wet  clothes  to  discuss  our  present  situation  with  my  men, 
I  suddenly  became  so  cold,  shivery,  and  exhausted  that  I 
thought  I  was  about  to  collapse  altogether.  My  usual 
good  spirits,  which  had  done  much  towards  carrying  me 
so  far,  seemed  extinguished ;  my  strength  failed  me  en- 
tirely, and  a  high  fever  set  in,  increasing  in  violence  so 
fast  that,  notwithstanding  my  desperate  struggle  not  to 
give  in,  I  became  almost  delirious.  With  my  teeth  chat- 
tering and  my  temperature  at  its  highest,  I  saw  all  my 
troubles  assume  an  exaggerated  form,  and  failure  seemed 
inevitable.  The  more  I  ransacked  my  brain  the  more 
hopeless  seemed  our  position,  until,  when  I  was  almost  in 
despair,  an  expedient  suddenly  flashed  across  my  mind — 
an  idea  more  adapted  for  romance,  perhaps,  than  real  life, 
yet  not,  I  hoped,  impossible  to  be  carried  into  execution. 
Four  of  my  men  should  go  disguised,  two  as  traders  and 
two  as  beggars,  into  the  Takla*  fort,  and  purchase  food 
from  my  enemies.  We,  remaining  in  camp,  would  in  the 
mean  time  keep  well  hidden  until  they  returned.  I  spoke 
to  my  followers,  and,  after  some  easily  conceivable  reluc- 
tance, four  Shokas  undertook  to  perform  the  daring  duty. 
Discovery  would  mean  to  them  the  loss  of  their  heads, 
probably  preceded  by  cruel  tortures  of  all  kinds ;  so, 
though  they  eventually  betrayed  me,  I  cannot  help  giving 

*  Takla  khar  or  Taklakot— Takla  fort. 
218 


BREAKFASTING   ON    NETTLES 

them  credit  for  the  pluck  and  fidelity  they  displayed  in 
the  present  emergency. 

During  the  night  my  men  were  extremely  good  to  me. 
We  did  not  sleep  for  fear  of  being  surprised  by  the  Tib- 
etan soldiers,  and  we  passed  hour  after  hour  listening  to 
Shoka  stories  of  brigands  and  Tibetan  tortures,  terrible 
enough  not  only  to  keep  us  awake,  but  to  make  every 
hair  on  our  heads  stand  on  end.  Early  in  the  morning, 
when  it  grew  light,  we  gathered  a  quantity  of  nettles, 
which  were  to  be  found  in  profusion  at  this  camp,  and, 
having  boiled  them  in  different  fashions,  we  made  of  them 
a  hearty  if  not  an  appetizing  meal.  They  did  not  seem 
very  unpalatable  at  the  time,  only  it  was  unfortunate  that 
we  had  no  more  salt,  for  that  would  have  added  to  the 
digestibility  of  our  prickly  diet.  We  supplied  the  defi- 
ciency by  mixing  with  them  a  double  quantity  of  pepper, 
and  it  was  a  relief  to  know  that,  while  nettles  existed  near 
our  camp,  we  should  at  least  not  die  of  starvation. 

219 


CHAPTER   XXXV 

.ALL  THAT  REMAINED  OF  MY  MEN'S  PROVISIONS — THE  PLAN  TO  ENTER 
THE  FORT— APPEARANCE  OF  YAKS — A  BAND  OF  BRIGANDS — ERECTING 
FORTIFICATIONS  —  CHANGES  IN  THE  TEMPERATURE  —  SOLDIERS  IN 
SEARCH  OF  US 

THE  food  supply  for  my  men  was  now  reduced  in  all 
to  four  pounds  of  flour,  two  pounds  of  rice,  and  two 
pounds  of  satoo.  This  we  gave  to  the  four  men  who 
were  to  attempt  to  enter  Taklakot,  for  their  road  would 
be  long  and  fatiguing.  For  us  there  were  plenty  of  net- 
tles to  fall  back  upon. 

I  carefully  instructed  the  four  Shokas  how  to  enter  the 
Tibetan  fort  one  by  one  in  their  disguises,  and  purchase, 
in  small  quantities  at  a  time,  the  provisions  we  required. 
When  a  sufficient  amount  was  obtained  to  make  a  load, 
a  man  should  immediately  start  towards  our  camp,  and 
the  others  were  to  follow  separately  for  a  few  marches, 
when  at  a  given  spot  they  would  all  four  meet  again  and 
return  to  us.  It  was  exciting  work  to  prepare  the  differ- 
ent disguises  and  arrange  for  everything,  and  at  last,  after 
repeated  good-byes  and  words  of  encouragement,  the  four 
messengers  left  on  their  perilous  errand.  All  seemed 
very  quiet  round  us,  so  quiet  that  I  unburied  my  sextant 
and  artificial  horizon,  and  was  taking  observations  for 
longitude  as  well  as  for  latitude  (by  double  altitudes,  as 
the  angle  was  too  great  to  be  measured  at  noon),  when,  to 
our  dismay,  a  herd  consisting  of  over  a  hundred  yaks  ap- 
peared on  the  pass  north  of  our  camp  and  slowly  ad- 
vanced towards  us.  Were  we  discovered  ?  Were  the 

220 


A    NARROW    ESCAPE 

Tarjum's  men  coming,  preceded  by  their  animals?  No 
time  was  to  be  lost;  instruments  and  blankets  were  quick- 
ly cleared  away  and  hidden,  and  then,  crawling  up  tow- 
ards the  animals,  who  had  stopped  on  perceiving  us,  we 
threw  stones  at  them  in  order  to  drive  them  down  the 
next  creek.  As  luck  would  have  it,  we  were  just  in  time 
to  do  this,  for  from  our  hiding-place  on  the  summit  of  the 
pass  we  could  see,  on  the  other  side,  a  number  of  Tib- 
etans following  the  yaks  we  had  driven  away.  They 
passed  only  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  below  us,  evident- 
ly quite  unconscious  of  our  presence.  They  were  sing- 
ing, and  apparently  looking  for  somebody's  tracks,  for 
they  often  stooped  to  examine  the  ground.  Later  in  the 
afternoon  I  went  to  reconnoitre  down  the  Gyanema  road, 
and  in  the  hope  of  watching,  unseen,  the  Tibetans  who 
passed  on  their  way  to  and  from  Taklakot.  I  saw  no 
soldiers,  but  a  strong  band  of  Jogpas  (brigands),  driving 
before  them  thousands  of  sheep  and  yaks,  was  an  interest- 
ing sight.  They  all  rode  ponies,  and  seemed  to  obey 
their  leader  very  smartly,  when  in  a  hoarse  voice,  and 
never  ceasing  to  turn  his  prayer- wheel,  he  muttered 
orders.  They  went  briskly  along  in  fine  style,  women  as 
well  as  men  riding  their  ponies  astride.  The  men  had 
matchlocks  and  swords,  and  each  pony  carried,  besides  its 
rider,  bags  of  food  slung  behind  the  saddle.  I  watched 
the  long  procession  from  behind  some  rocks,  and  felt 
somewhat  relieved  when  the  last  horseman,  who  passed 
only  some  twenty  yards  from  me,  rode  away  with  the  rest 
of  the  caravan.  I  retraced  my  steps,  and,  judging  that 
this  camp  was  not  quite  so  safe  as  I  had  at  first  supposed, 
I  proceeded,  with  the  aid  of  my  men,  to  erect  a  rough  in- 
trenchment  and  wall  round  our  platform,  along  the  rock 
under  which  we  lived.  These  bulwarks  answered  the 
double  purpose  of  sheltering  us  from  the  sight  of  the  Tib- 

22  I 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

etans  and  of  acting  as  fortifications  in  case  of  a  night  at- 
tack. All  our  things  were  buried  a  little  way  above  our 
camp. 

Another  long,  dreary  day  had  elapsed.  We  had  used 
our  last  grain  of  salt ;  and  yet  another  day  on  nettles  alone; 
and  a  third  day  and  a  fourth  on  the  same  diet!  How 
sick  we  got  of  nettles  !  The  days  seemed  endless  as,  lying 
flat  on  a  peak  above  our  camp,  I  remained  hour  after  hour 
scanning  with  my  telescope  the  long  plateau  above  the 
Gakkon  River  in  search  of  our  returning  messengers. 
Every  time  I  perceived  men  in  the  distance  my  heart 
leaped,  but  on  focusing  them  with  my  glass  they  turned 
out  to  be  Jogpas  (bandits),  or  Dogpas  (nomad  tribes  of 
smugglers),  or  travelling  Humlis  or  Jumlis,  on  their  way 
to  Gyanema  and  Gartok.  And  how  many  times  did  we 
not  listen  and  then  anxiously  peep  through  the  fissures  in 
our  fortifications  when  some  unusual  noise  struck  our  ears  ! 
As  time  went  on,  and  they  did  not  put  in  an  appearance, 
we  began  to  entertain  doubts  as  to  their  safety — or  would 
they  betray  us  and  never  return  ?  Or,  as  was  more  likely, 
had  they  been  caught  by  the  Jong  Pen  (the  master  of  the 
fort),  and  been  imprisoned  and  tortured  ? 

My  bearer,  who  was  somewhat  of  a  bon  vivant,  declined 
to  eat  any  more  food,  as  he  said  it  was  better  not  to  eat  at 
all  than  to  eat  the  same  thing  constantly.  He  swore  he 
could  fast  for  ten  days,  and  he  made  up  for  want  of  food 
by  sleeping. 

My  fortified  abode  was  comfortable  enough  during  the 
morning,  when  the  sun  shone  on  it,  though  often  it  got  so 
warm  that  we  had  to  abandon  it  in  the  middle  of  the  day, 
when  the  thermometer  registered  as  much  as  120°,  122°, 
and  even  124°.  From  i  P.M.  till  10  at  night  a  bitter  wind 
blew  from  the  southeast,  and  seemed  to  get  right  into  our 
bones;  so  cold  was  it  that  the  temperature  suddenly 

222 


BEHIND   OUR   BULWARKS 


BEHIND   OUR    BULWARKS 

dropped  down  to  60°,  and  even  lower,  the  moment  the  sun- 
disappeared  behind  the  mountains,  and  continued  to  fall 
as  low  as  40°,  34°,  and  32° — the  minimum  during  the  night. 
One  night  we  had  a  terrible  gale  and  a  snow-storm.  Such 
was  the  force  of  the  wind  that  our  wall  was  blown  down 
upon  us  as  we  slept  in  its  shelter,  and  the  hours  we  had 
dedicated  to  rest  had  to  be  spent  in  repairing  the  damage 
done.  On  the  following  morning  we  were  gathering 
nettles  for  our  meal,  when  we  heard  the  distant  tinkling 
of  fast-approaching  horse-bells.  We  quickly  put  out  the 
fires,  hid  our  things,  and  hastened  behind  our  intrench- 
ment.  I  seized  my  rifle ;  Chanden  Sing  loaded  the  Mar- 
tini. A  Shoka  who  was  too  far  off  to  reach  our  fortified 
abode  in  time  screened  himself  behind  some  rocks.  In 
the  nick  of  time !  Half  a  dozen  sepoys  with  matchlocks, 
to  which  were  attached  red  flags,  slung  over  their  shoulders, 
were  cantering  gayly  up  the  hill-side  only  a  few  yards  in 
front  of  us.  They  were  undoubtedly  searching  for  me, 
judging  by  the  way  they  looked  in  every  direction,  but 
fortunately  they  never  turned  towards  the  castle  walls  that 
concealed  us.  They  were  expecting,  I  presume,  to  see  a 
large  European  tent  in  one  of  the  valleys,  and  never  even 
dreamed  that  we  should  be  where  we  were.  We  covered 
them  well  with  our  rifles,  but  we  had  no  occasion  to  fire. 
They  rode  on,  and  the  sound  of  their  horse -bells  grew 
fainter  and  fainter  as  they  disappeared  behind  the  pass. 
To  be  sure,  these  horsemen  could  only  be  soldiers  de- 
spatched by  the  Tarjum  to  guard  this  track.  They  were 
now  probably  on  their  way  back  to  him,  satisfied  that  the 
sahib  was  not  to  be  found  in  that  part  of  the  country. 

223 


CHAPTER   XXXVI 

"TERROR  CAMP" — TWO  MORE  MESSENGERS  LEAVE  CAMP — A  TRIBE  OF 
DOGPAS — A  STRANGE  SAHIB— OUR  MESSENGERS  RETURN  FROM  TAK- 
LAKOT — THE  ACCOUNT  AND  ADVENTURES  OF  THEIR  MISSION — IN 
GREAT  DISTRESS — TWO  FAKIRS  WHO  SUFFERED  THROUGH  ME— FIVE 
HUNDRED  RUPEES  OFFERED  FOR  MY  HEAD — THE  SHOKAS  WANT  TO 
ABANDON  ME— A  PLOT— HOW  IT  FAILED 

WE  named  this  spot  "  Terror  Camp,"  for  many  and 
horrible  were  the  experiences  that  befell  us  here.  Another 
weary  day  dragged  slowly  to  its  close,  and  there  was  still 
no  sign  of  the  messengers'  return.  Two  men  volunteered 
to  go  into  Kardam,  a  settlement  some  miles  off,  and  try 
to  obtain  food  from  the  Tibetans.  One  of  them  had  a  friend 
at  this  place,  and  he  thought  he  could  get  from  him  suf- 
ficient provisions  to  enable  us  to  go  on  a  few  days  longer. 

They  started,  disguised  as  pilgrims,  a  disguise  not  dif- 
ficult to  assume,  for  their  clothes  were  falling  to  pieces 
owing  to  the  rough  marching  we  had  done  of  late.  They 
were  away  the  whole  day,  and  only  returned  late  at  night, 
having  an  amusing  tale  to  tell.  Meeting  a  tribe  of  Dog- 
pas,  they  had  boldly  entered  their  camp,  asking  to  purchase 
food.  Unfortunately  the  Dogpas  had  not  sufficient  for 
themselves,  and  could  not  spare  any.  Incidentally  my 
men  were  informed  that  Lando  Pleuki—\\\e  name  the 
Tibetans  had  given  me — had  taken  a  large  army  of  men 
into  Tibet,  and  that  great  excitement  prevailed  at  Takla- 
kot  as  well  as  at  other  places,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the 
sahib  had  the  extraordinary  power  of  making  himself  in- 
visible when  the  Tibetan  soldiers  were  in  his  vicinity.  He 

224 


PAINFUL    UNCERTAINTY 

had  been  reported  as  having  been  seen  in  many  places  in 
Tibet;  soldiers  had  been  despatched  in  all  directions  to 
capture  him.  His  tracks  had  several  times  been  discov- 
ered and  followed,  and  yet  he  could  never  be  found.  Mes- 
sengers had  been  hastily  sent  out  from  Taklakot  to  Lhassa 
(sixteen  days'  journey),  and  to  Gartok,  a  great  bazaar  in 
West  Tibet,  asking  for  soldiers  to  assist  in  the  capture  of 
this  strange  invader,  who  was  also  said  to  have  the  power 
of  walking  on  the  water  when  crossing  the  rivers  and  of 
flying  over  mountains  when  he  chose.  When  I  recalled 
our  struggles  and  sufferings  in  climbing  over  the  moun- 
tains and  in  crossing  the  streams  on  our  journey,  this  ac- 
count of  myself  given  by  the  Tibetans,  and  now  repeated 
to  me,  struck  me  as  almost  cruelly  ironical.  Anyhow,  I 
was  pleased  that  the  Tibetans  credited  me  with  such  su- 
pernatural powers,  for  it  could  hardly  fail  to  be  an  ad- 
vantage in  keeping  them  from  getting  to  too  close  quar- 
ters with  us. 

Three  more  days  had  to  be  spent  in  a  state  of  painful 
uncertainty  and  anxiety  regarding  the  fate  of  our  mes- 
sengers to  Taklakot.  On  the  night  of  the  3d  we  had  re- 
tired to  our  fortress  in  despair,  fearing  that  they  had  been 
captured  and  probably  beheaded.  It  was  10  P.M.,  and  we 
were  worn  out  and  ready  to  turn  in ;  our  fire  down  below 
at  the  bottom  of  the  creek  was  slowly  dying  out,  and 
nature  around  us  was  still  and  silent,  when  I  suddenly 
heard  sounds  of  approaching  steps.  We  listened,  peep- 
ing through  the  fissures  in  our  wall.  Were  these  Tib- 
betans  trying  to  surprise  us  in  our  sleep,  or  could  they 
be  our  men  returning  at  last? 

We  closely  watched  the  gorge  from  which  the  sounds 
came,  faint  sounds  of  voices  and  of  footsteps.  Silent  as 
we  were,  there  were  not  wanting  signs  of  the  nervous  ex- 
citement of  my  men.  At  last  four  staggering  figures 
i.— s  225 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

crawled  cautiously  into  camp,  and  we  could  not  even  then 
discern  in  the  dim  light  whether  these  were  our  messen- 
gers or  not. 

"  Kuan  /iai?"  (Who  is  there  ?)  I  shouted. 

"  Dola !"  replied  a  voice,  and  instantly  we  gave  them  a 
joyful  and  hearty  greeting.  But  our  happiness  was  not 
to  last  long.  The  men  did  not  respond.  They  seemed 
quite  exhausted  and  apparently  terrified.  I  asked  them 
to  explain  the  cause  of  their  distress,  but,  sobbing  and  em- 
bracing my  fe«t,  they  showed  great  disinclination  to  tell 
me.  Grave,  indeed,  was  the  news  they  brought,  presag- 
ing much  trouble  in  store. 

"  Your  days  are  numbered,  sahib,"  at  last  cried  Dola. 
"  It  is  impossible  for  you  to  get  out  of  this  country  alive; 
they  will  kill  you,  and  the  Jong  Pen  of  Taklakot  says  that 
he  must  have  your  head  at  all  costs." 

"  Do  not  look  fco  far  ahead,  Dola,"  I  replied,  trying  to 
calm  him,  "  but  tell  me  first  how  you  reached  Taklakot." 

"Oh,  sahib,  we  followed  your  plan.  We  suffered  much 
on  the  road,  as  the  marches  were  long  and  severe,  and  we 
had  very  little  food.  We  walked  day  and  night  for  two 
days,  keeping  away  from  the  track,  and  hiding  whenever 
we  saw  any  one.  When  we  got  near  the  Tibetan  fort  we 
saw  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  a  few  tents  of  the  Tinker  and 
Chongur  Shokas  from  Nepal.  None  of  the  Biassi  or 
Chaudassi  Shokas  had  been  allowed  to  enter  Tibet  owing 
to  the  Jong  Pen's  anger  with  them  regarding  his  claims 
for  Land  Revenue.  There  was  a  guard  day  and  night  at 
the  river,  and  a  sharp  lookout  was  kept  to  stop  and  arrest 
anybody  entering  the  country.  Two  fakirs,  who  were  on 
a  pilgrimage  to  the  sacred  Mansarowar,  unaware  of  the 
dangers,  had  crossed  over  the  Lippu  Pass,  and  had  pro- 
ceeded down  to  Taklakot,  where  they  were  immediately 
seized  and  accused  of  being  you,  sahib,  in  disguise.  As 

226 


the  Tibetans  were  not  quite  certain  as  to  which  of  the  two 
was  the  real  sahib,  they  severely  punished  both,  beating 
them  almost  to  death.  What  became  of  them  afterwards 
we  were  unable  to  learn.  Anyhow,  the  Tibetans  subse- 
^uently  found  out  that  you  had  entered  Tibet  by  another 
pass,  and  soldiers  have  been  sent  in  every  direction  to 
look  for  you. 

"  No  sooner  did  we  appear  at  Taklakot,"  sobbed  Dola, 
"  than  we  were  pounced  upon,  knocked  about,  and  ar- 
rested. They  cross-examined  us  closely.  We  professed 
to  be  Johari  traders,  who  had  run  out  of  food,  and  had 
made  for  Taklakot  to  buy  provisions.  They  beat  us  and 
treated  us  badly,  until  your  friend  Zeniram,  the  head  vil- 
lage man  of  Chongur  (in  Nepal),  came  to  our  rescue  and 
gave  thirty  rupees  surety  for  us.  We  were  then  allowed 
to  remain  in  his  tent,  guarded  by  Tibetan  soldiers.  We 
secretly  purchased  from  him  and  packed  the  provisions, 
and  at  night  Zeniram  succeeded  in  decoying  the  soldiers 
that  were  guarding  us  into  his  tent,  and  gave  them  ctiokti 
to  drink  until  they  became  intoxicated.  One  by  one  we 
four  succeeded  in  escaping  with  our  loads.  For  three 
nights  we  marched  steadily  back,  concealing  ourselves 
during  the  day  for  the  sake  of  safety.  Now  we  have  re- 
turned to  you,  sahib." 

Dola  paused  for  a  minute  or  two. 

"  Sahib,"  he  continued,  "  we  were  told  in  Taklakot  that 
over  a  thousand  soldiers  are  searching  for  you  every- 
where, and  more  are  expected  from  Lhassa  and  Sigatz,* 
whither  the  Jong  Pen  has  hastily  sent  messengers.  They 
fear  you,  sahib,  but  they  have  orders  from  Lhassa  to  capt- 
ure you  at  all  costs.  They  say  that  you  can  make  your- 
self invisible  when  you  like,  and  exorcisms  are  made  and 

*  Sigatz,  usually  called  "  Shigatze"  by  English  people. 
227 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

prayers  offered  daily  so  that  in  future  you  may  be  seen 
and  arrested.  Once  caught,  they  will  have  no  pity  on  you, 
and  you  will  be  beheaded,  for  the  Jong  Pen  is  angry  with 
you  owing  to  the  defiant  messages  you  sent  him  from  Gar- 
byang.  He  has  given  orders  to  the  soldiers  to  bring  you 
back  dead  or  alive,  and  whoever  brings  your  head  will  re- 
ceive a  reward  of  five  hundred  rupees." 

"  I  had  no  idea  that  my  head  was  so  valuable,"  I  could 
not  help  exclaiming.  "  I  shall  take  great  care  of  it  in  the 
future." 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  five  hundred  rupees  in  Tibet  repre- 
sents a  fortune,  and  the  man  possessing  it  is  a  very  rich 
man. 

But  my  men  were  not  in  a  laughing  mood,  and  they 
looked  upon  the  whole  affair  as  very  serious. 

I  orave  a  handsome  backshish  to  the  four  men  who  had 

O 

brought  the  provisions,  but  that  did  not  prevent  all  the 
Shokas  declaring  that  the  danger  was  so  great  that  they 
must  leave  me  there  and  then.  Appeals  are  useless  on 
such  occasions,  and  so  I  simply  stated  that  I  should  shoot 
any  man  attempting  to  leave  camp.  Having  now  pro- 
visions for  ten  days,  I  informed  them  that  we  must  at 
once  push  on. 

Sulky  and  grumbling,  they  left  our  fortified  corner  and 
went  below  to  the  creek.  They  said  they  preferred  sleep- 
ing down  there.  I  suspected  them,  however,  and  I  sat 
up  watching  them  and  listening  instead  of  sleeping.  My 
bearer  rolled  himself  up  in  his  blanket,  and,  as  usual,  was 
soon  asleep.  The  Shokas  lighted  a  fire,  sat  round  it,  and 
with  their  heads  close  together  held  an  excited  council 
in  semi-whispers.  In  the  heated  discussion  some  spoke 
louder  than  they  imagined,  and,  the  night  being  particu- 
larly still  and  the  place  well  adapted  for  carrying  sound,  I 
overheard  words  which  put  me  on  the  alert,  for  I  soon  con- 

228 


A    PLOT 

vinced  myself  that  they  were  arranging  to  sell  my  head- 
yes,  and  to  divide  the  money. 

The  men  got  closer  together  and  spoke  so  faintly 
that  I  could  hear  no  more.  Then  they  each  in  turn 
placed  one  hand  above  the  other  along  a  stick,  until  the 
end  of  it  was  reached ;  each  man  then  passed  it  to  his 
neighbor,  who  went  through  the  same  form — a  compli- 
cated manner  of  drawing  lots,  common  among  the 
Shokas.  Eventually  the  man  selected  by  fate  drew  from 
a  load  a  large  Gourkha  kukri  and  removed  its  scabbard. 
A  strange,  almost  fantastic  impression  remains  on  my 
mind  of  the  moment  when  the  men,  with  their  faces 
lighted  by  the  small  flame  of  the  flickering  fire,  all 
looked  up  towards  my  eyrie.  The  culminating-point  of 
their  treachery  had  come,  and  their  countenances  seemed 
ghastly  and  distorted,  as  seen  from  the  fissure  in  the  wall 
behind  which  I  knelt  They  listened  to  hear  if  we  were 
asleep.  Then  all  but  one  rolled  themselves  in  their 
blankets,  completely  covering  their  heads  and  bodies. 
The  one  figure  I  could  now  see  sat  up  by  the  fire  for 
some  time,  as  if  absorbed  in  thought.  Every  now  and 
then  he  turned  his  head  up  towards  my  fortress  and  lis- 
tened. At  last  he  got  up,  and  with  his  feet  smothered 
the  fire.  It  was  a  lovely  night,  and  as  soon  as  the  red- 
dish flame  was  put  out  the  stars  shone  again  like  dia- 
monds in  the  small  patch  of  deep-blue  sky  visible  above 
my  head. 

I  rested  the  barrel  of  my  rifle  on  the  wall,  my  eyes  be- 
ing fixed  on  the  black  figure  down  below.  I  watched  as, 
stooping  low,  it  crawled  step  by  step  the  few  yards  up  to 
my  abode,  pausing  to  listen  each  time  that  a  rolling 
stone  caused  a  noise.  He  was  now  only  two  or  three 
yards  away,  and  seemed  to  hesitate.  Drawing  back,  and 
ready  to  spring  up,  I  kept  my  eyes  fixed  on  the  top  of 

229 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

the  wall.     I  waited  some  time,  but  the  man  was  in  no 
hurry,  and  I  grew  impatient 

I  slowly  got  up,  rifle  in  hand,  and  as  I  raised  my  head 
above  the  wall  I  found  myself  face  to  face  with  the  man 
on  the  other  side.  I  lost  no  time  in  placing  the  muzzle 
of  my  Mannlicher  close  to  his  face,  and  the  perplexed 
Shoka,  dropping  his  kukri,  went  down  on  his  knees  to 
implore  my  pardon.  After  giving  him  a  good  pounding 
with  the  butt  of  my  rifle,  I  sent  him  about  his  business. 
The  man  lacked  the  qualities  of  a  murderer,  but  I  felt  I 
had  better  see  that  no  other  disturbance  took  place  dur- 
ing the  night.  It  is  true  that  two  men  attempted  to 
crawl  out  of  camp  and  desert,  but  I  discovered  this  and 
stopped  them  in  time.  At  last  the  sun  rose,  and  the 
night  gave  way  with  all  its  troubles  and  anxieties. 


CHAPTER   XXXVII 

A  TIBETAN  GUARD'S  ENCAMPMENT  —  NATTOO  VOLUNTEERS  TO  BE  A 
GUIDE— TREACHERY  AND  PUNISHMENT  OF  THE  SHOKAS— ALL  WAYS 
FORWARD  BARRED  TO  ME  —  EVADING  THE  SOLDIERS  BY  ANOTHER 
PERILOUS  MARCH  AT  NIGHT — MANS1NG  AGAIN  LOST — A  MARVELLOUS 
PHENOMENON — SUFFERINGS  OF  MY  MEN — SEVERE  COLD 

ON  my  last  scouting  journey  up  the  hill  above  the 
camp  I  had  espied  by  the  aid  of  my  telescope  the  en- 
campment of  a  guard  of  Tibetans  about  three  miles  north 
of  us,  and  I  informed  my  followers  of  this  fact 

In  the  morning,  when  we  again  dug  up  the  main  part 
of  our  baggage  and  made  ready  to  start,  one  of  the  men, 
the  Kutial  Nattoo,  came  forward  and  professed  to  be 
able  to  guide  us  directly  to  the  Mansarowar  Lake.  He 
seemed  very  anxious  to  undertake  this  task,  saying  that 
there  would  be  no  chance  of  detection  by  the  route  he 
knew,  and  consequently  we  might  march  during  the  day- 
time. 

We  started  up  the  creek,  led  by  this  man,  and  I  was 
astonished  at  the  willingness  with  which  the  Shokas 
agreed  to  proceed.  In  a  little  time  I  felt  convinced  that 
he  was  deliberately  taking  us  to  the  spot  I  most  wished 
to  avoid.  On  my  remonstrating  and  stopping  farther 
progress  in  that  direction,  the  Shokas  mutinied,  and,  de- 
positing their  loads,  tried  to  escape,  but  my  bearer  quick- 
ly barred  their  way  ahead  in  the  narrow  creek  and  I 
prevented  their  escape  from  the  opposite  side,  so  they 
had  to  surrender.  Painful  as  it  was  to  me,  I  had  to 
severely  punish  them  all,  and  while  I  took  care  that  no 

231 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

one  should  bolt,  Chanden  Sing  took  special  pleasure  in 
knocking  them  about  until  they  were  brought  back  to 
their  senses.  On  being  closely  cross-examined  they 
openly  confessed  that  they  had  made  a  plot  to  hand  me 
over  to  the  Tibetan  guard,  in  order  to  escape  the  horrors 
of  torture  by  the  Tibetans.  This  last  act  of  treachery, 
coming  after  what  had  happened  during  the  night,  and 
from  the  very  men  whom  I  had  just  been  more  than  leni- 
ent towards,  was  too  much  for  me,  and  I  used  a  stick, 
which  Chanden  Sing  handed  me,  very  freely  on  their 
backs  and  legs,  Nattoo  the  Kutial  receiving  the  largest 
share  of  blows,  because  he  was  undoubtedly  the  head  of 
the  conspiracy. 

On  climbing  to  a  point  of  vantage,  I  now  further  dis- 
covered that,  besides  the  guard  we  had  to  the  north  of 
us,  both  east  and  west  our  way  was  barred  by  Tibetan 
soldiers ;  and  although  it  was  not  possible  to  get  on  dur- 
ing the  day  without  being  seen,  I  absolutely  refused  to 
go  back  south.  I  held  a  palaver  with  my  men,  who  were 
apparently  resigned,  and  they  agreed  to  accompany  me 
as  far  as  the  Maium  Pass  (on  the  road  to  Lhassa),  which 
we  reckoned  to  be  some  fifteen  or  eighteen  marches. 
They  further  agreed  to  endeavor  to  obtain  yaks  and  food 
for  me,  and  I  was  then  to  dismiss  them.  From  the  sum- 
mit of  the  hill  I  had  climbed  I  had  taken  careful  bear- 
ings, and  when  night  came,  aided  by  my  luminous  com- 
pass, I  led  my  men  high  up  along  the  mountain  range  at 
an  average  elevation  of  1500  feet  above  the  Gyanema- 
Taklakot  track. 

The  night  was  dark  and  stormy,  and  we  encountered 
much  difficulty  in  our  journey  forward  owing  to  the  slip- 
pery ground,  alternated  with  the  ever-troublesome  loose 
debris  and  shifting  rocks.  We  could  not  see  far  ahead, 
and  though  we  well  knew  from  the  angle  of  the  slope 

232 


MANSING   LOST 

that  we  were  travelling  along  a  precipice,  we  could  not 
distinguish  anything  under  us  except  a  peculiarly  lumi- 
nous streak,  far,  far  down  below — undoubtedly  the  river. 

I  could  not  explain  this  luminosity  of  the  water,  which 
did  not  seem  to  come  from  reflection  of  the  light  of  stars 
or  the  moon,  because  the  sky  was  very  cloudy  at  the  time. 
Moreover,  the  river  had  a  curious  greenish  tint  quite  pe- 
culiar to  itself,  and  closely  resembling  the  light  produced 
by  electricity.  In  the  more  dangerous  spots  we  had  to 
proceed  for  long  distances  on  all-fours,  and  even  then  we 
felt  hardly  safe,  for  we  could  hear  the  rattling  of  the  stones 
rolling  down  the  steep  slope,  and  by  this  sound  we  could 
judge  that  we  were  proceeding  over  a  precipice  of  extraor- 
dinary height.  So  difficult  and  painful  was  the  walking 
that  it  took  us  four  hours  to  go  about  three  miles;  and  we 
felt  so  exhausted  that  from  time  to  time  we  had  to  lie 
down  and  rest,  shivering  with  cold,  and  our  hands  bleed- 
ing from  cuts  caused  by  the  sharp  stones.  I  mustered 
my  men.  Poor  Mansing  the  leper  was  missing.  When 
we  last  saw  him  he  was  moaning  under  his  load,  and  he 
constantly  stumbled  and  fell.  Two  men  were  sent  in 
search,  but  after  an  hour's  absence  they  failed  to  discover 
him.  The  faithful  Chanden  Sing  and  the  Shoka  Dola 
were  then  despatched,  as  I  would  not  abandon  the  poor 
wretch  if  by  any  means  he  could  be  saved.  After  another 
hour  of  anxiety  the  two  returned,  bringing  the  unfort- 
unate coolie  with  them.  The  poor  fellow's  hands  and 
feet  were  badly  cut,  and  the  pain  in  the  latter  was  so  great 
that  he  could  not  stand  erect.  He  had  fallen  fainting  from 
exhaustion,  and  it  was  by  a  mere  stroke  of  luck  that  in 
the  darkness  Chanden  Sing  stumbled  against  his  senseless 
body.  Apart  from  his  life,  his  loss  would  have  been  a 
very  serious  matter  for  me,  as  he  carried  my  bedding  and 
photographic  cameras. 

233 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Sleet  and  rain  commenced  to  fall,  and  the  cold  was  in- 
tense. We  continued  to  climb  steadily,  Chanden  Sing 
and  I  helping  the  poor  leper  along.  The  march  soon 
became  less  difficult,  as  we  were  following  a  depression 
formed  by  the  action  of  melting  snows,  and  were  sheltered 
from  the  piercing  wind  which  had  been  hitherto  driving 
the  sleet  hard  into  our  faces.  We  slowly  covered  some 
three  miles  more,  and  during  that  time  the  storm  passed 
away,  leaving  the  atmosphere  beautifully  clear.  When  we 
reached  the  pass  (over  1 7,000  feet),  a  curious  optical  phe- 
nomenon astonished  us  all.  The  larger  stars  and  planets, 
of  a  dazzling  brilliancy  such  as  I  had  never  in  my  life  seen 
before,  seemed  to  swing  to  and  fro  in  the  sky  with  rapid 
and  sudden  jerks,  describing  short  arcs  of  a  circle,  and 
returning  each  time  to  their  normal  position.  The  effect 
was  so  weird  that  the  first  thing  that  struck  me  was  that 
something  had  gone  wrong  with  my  vision,  but  my  com- 
panions saw  the  same  phenomenon.  Another  curious  thing 
was  that  the  stars  nearer  the  horizon  disappeared  and  re- 
appeared behind  the  mountain  range.  The  oscillations 
of  th&  heavenly  bodies  nearer  the  horizon  were  less  rapid, 
but  the  angle  of  the  arc  described  measured  almost  double 
that  traced  by  the  stars  directly  above  our  heads.  The 
oscillations  of  these,  however,  were  very  much  more  rapid, 
especially  at  certain  moments,  when  the  star  itself  could 
no  more  be  discerned,  and  a  continuous  line  of  light  ap- 
peared on  the  deep-blue  background  of  the  sky.  This 
strange  optical  illusion,  which  began  soon  after  the  storm 
had  entirely  cleared  away,  lasted  some  time ;  then  the 
vibrations  gradually  became  less  violent,  and  stars  and 
planets  eventually  resumed  their  normal  steadiness,  and 
shone  with  great  brilliancy  and  beauty.  We  crossed  the 
pass,  and  halted  directly  on  the  northern  side  of  it,  for  my 
men's  feet  were  in  such  a  condition  that  they  could  bear 

234 


SUDDEN  CHANGE  OF  TEMPERATURE 

the  pain  no  longer.  The  minimum  temperature  was  but 
12°,  and,  as  we  had  no  tent,  there  was  only  a  blanket  be- 
tween us  and  heaven.  When  we  woke  in  the  morning  we 
found  the  thermometer  had  risen  to  30°,  but  we  were  envel- 
oped in  a  thick  mist  which  chilled  us  to  our  very  marrow. 
I  had  icicles  hanging  down  my  mustache,  eyelashes,  and 
hair,  and  my  cheeks  and  nose  were  covered  with  a  thin 
layer  of  ice  caused  by  the  respiration  settling  and  congeal- 
ing on  my  face. 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII 

NIGHT  MARCHING— THE  LAFAN  AND  MAFAN  LAKES—  TIZE,  THE  SACRED 
KELAS — RHUBARB — BUTTERFLIES — A  HERMIT  LAMA — MORE  DACOITS 
— SURROUNDED  BY  THEM — ROUTED 

DURING  our  night  marches,  up  and  down  mountain 
ranges  of  considerable  height,  we  naturally  had  advent- 
ures and  escapes  far  too  numerous  to  relate  here  in  exact 
detail,  and  I  shall  not  give  a  full  description  of  each  march 
on  account  of  the  unavoidable  monotony  of  such  a  narrative. 
In  constant  storms  of  grit  and  snow  we  crossed  range 
after  range,  travelling  during  the  night  and  hiding  by  day, 
camping  at  very  great  altitudes  and  undergoing  consider- 
able privations.  I  steered  my  men  towards  the  Rakastal* 
Lake,  and  one  day,  having  risen  to  1 7,550  feet,  we  obtained 
a  magnificent  view  of  the  two  great  sheets  of  water,  the 
Lafan-cho  and  Mafan-cho,  or  Rakastal  and  Mansarowar 
lakes,  by  which  latter  names  they  are  more  commonly 
known  by  non-Tibetans. 

To  the  north  of  the  lakes  stood  the  magnificent  Tize,. 
the  sacred  Kelas  Mountain,  overtopping  by  some  two- 
thousand  feet  all  the  other  snowy  peaks  of  the  Gangri 
chain,  which  extended  roughly  from  northwest  to  south- 
east. From  this  spot  we  could  see  more  distinctly  than 
from  Lama  Chokden  the  band  round  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  which,  according  to  legend,  was  formed  by  the 
rope  of  the  Rakas  (devil)  trying  to  tear  down  this  throne 
of  the  gods. 

*  Rakastal—  Devil's  Lake,  also  very  frequently  pronounced  Rakstal. 

236 


TIZE,  THE    GREAT   SACRED    PEAK 

Tize,  the  great  sacred  peak,  is  of  fascinating  interest, 
owing  to  its  peculiar  shape.  It  resembles,  as  I  have  said, 
the  giant  roof  of  a  temple,  but  to  my  mind  it  lacks  the 
gracefulness  of  sweeping  curves  such  as  are  found  in  Fuji- 
ama  of  Japan,  the  most  artistically  beautiful  mountain  I 
have  ever  seen.  Tize  is  angular,  uncomfortably  angu- 
lar, if  I  may  be  allowed  the  expression ;  and  although  its 


OUR    FIRST    VIEW   OF    RAKASTAL 


height,  the  vivid  color  of  its  base,  and  the  masses  of  snow 
that  cover  its  slopes  give  it  a  peculiar  attraction,  it  never- 
theless struck  me  as  being  intensely  unpicturesque — at 
least  from  the  point  from  which  I  saw  it,  and  from  which 
the  whole  of  it  was  visible.  When  clouds  were  round  it, 
toning  clown  and  modifying  its  shape,  Tize  appeared  at  its 
best  from  the  painter's  point  of  view.  Under  these  con- 
ditions I  have  thought  it  very  beautiful,  especially  at  sun- 
rise, with  one  side  tinted  red  and  yellow,  and  its  rocky 
mass  standing  majestic  against  a  background  of  shiny 

237 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

gold.  With  my  telescope  I  could  plainly  distinguish, 
especially  on  the  east  side,  the  defile  along  which  the 
worshippers  make  the  circuit  at  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
though  I  was  told  that  some  pilgrims  actually  march 
round  it  on  the  snowy  ledge  directly  over  the  base  and 


RAKASTAL    AND 


just  above  the  darker  band  of  rock  described  before.  On 
the  southwest  side  can  be  seen,  on  the  top  of  a  lower  peak, 
a  gigantic  Obo. 

The  peregrination  round  Tize  usually  takes  three  days, 
though  some  accomplish  it  in  two  days,  and  under  favor- 
able circumstances  it  has  even  been  done  in  one  day.  It 
is  usual  for  the  pilgrims  to  say  certain  prayers  and  make 

238 


TIZE   AND    HER   NEIGHBORS 

sacrifices  as  they  proceed,  and  the  more  fanatical  perform 
the  journey  serpentwise,  lying  flat  on  the  ground ;  others, 
again,  do  it  on  their  hands  and  knees,  and  others  walking 
backward. 

Tize,  or  Kelas,  has  an  elevation   of   21,830  feet,  and 


MANSAROWAR   LAKES 


Nandiphu,  west  of  it,  10,440  feet;  while  northwest  of  the 
sacred  mountain  are  visible  other  summits,  20,460  feet, 
19,970  feet,  and  20,280  feet.  Animal  life  seemed  to- 
abound,  for  while  I  was  sketching  the  panorama  before 
me  a  snow  leopard  bounded  gracefully  past  us.  I  had  a 
shot  or  two  at  thar,  and  we  saw  any  number  of  kiang. 
We  found  rhubarb,  which  seemed  to  be  thriving,  at  so 

239 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

high  an  elevation  as  17,000  feet,  and  quantities  of  yellow 
flowers  in  the  same  locality  and  at  the  same  elevation ; 
and  at  19,000  feet  I  netted  two  couples  of  small  white-and- 
black  butterflies.  They  seemed  to  have  great  difficulty 
in  flying,  and  hardly  rose  more  than  two  or  three  inches 
off  the  ground,  flapping  their  wings  irregularly;  they 
seldom  flew  more  than  a  few  feet,  and  then  remained 
motionless  for  long  periods  before  they  attempted  to  fly 
again.  I  had  come  across  the  same  kind  of  butterfly  at 
lower  altitudes,  18,600  feet  and  17,000  feet,  and  I  invari- 
ably found  them  in  couples. 

On  nearing  the  lakes  the  atmosphere  seemed  saturated 
with  moisture,  for  no  sooner  had  the  sun  gone  down  than 
there  was  a  heavy  dew,  which  soaked  our  blankets  and 
clothes.  We  were  at  16,550  feet,  in  a  narrow,  marshy 
creek,  in  which  we  had  descended  a  pic  from  the  last 
mountain  range.  From  the  summit  of  the  range  we  had 
seen  many  columns  of  smoke  rising  from  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Rakastal  Lake,  and  we  judged  that  again  we 
must  proceed  with  great  caution. 

We  cooked  our  food,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  night, 
for  greater  safety,  we  shifted  our  camp  on  the  summit  of 
the  plateau  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  and  continued 
our  journey  in  the  morning,  high  above  the  magnificent 
blue  sheet  of  the  Devil's  Lake  with  its  pretty  islands. 

"Sahib,  do  you  see  that  island?"  exclaimed  the  Kutial, 
pointing  at  a  barren  rock  that  emerged  from  the  lake. 
"  On  it,"  he  continued,  "  lives  a  hermit  Lama,  a  saintly 
man.  He  has  been  there  alone  for  many  years,  and  he 
is  held  in  great  veneration  by  the  Tibetans.  He  exists 
almost  entirely  on  fish  and  occasional  swan's  eggs,  and 
only  in  winter,  when  the  lake  is  frozen,  is  communication 
established  with  the  shore,  and  supplies  of  tsamba  are 
brought  to  him,  for  they  have  no  boats  in  Rakastal,  nor 

240 


AN   AMUSING   INCIDENT 

any  way  of  constructing  rafts,  owing  to  the  absence  of 
wood.  The  hermit  sleeps  in  a  cave,  but  generally  comes 
out  in  the  open  to  pray  to  Buddha."  During  the  follow- 
ing night,  when  everything  was  still,  a  slight  breeze 
blowing  from  the  north  brought  to  us,  faint  and  indis- 
tinct, the  broken  howls  of  the  hermit. 

"  What  is  that  ?"  I  asked  of  the  Shokas. 

"  It  is  the  hermit  speaking  to  God.  Every  night  he 
climbs  to  the  summit  of  the  rock,  and  from  there  ad- 
dresses his  prayers  to  Buddha  the  Great." 

"  How  is  he  clothed  ?"  I  inquired. 

"  In  skins." 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we   had  an  amusing  incident. 

O 

We  came  to  a  creek  in  which  were  a  number  of  men  and 
women,  hundreds  of  yaks  and  sheep,  and  some  thirty 
ponies. 

The  Shokas  became  alarmed,  and  immediately  pro- 
nounced the  folks  to  be.  brigands.  I  maintained  that 
they  were  not,  and  as  Kachi  expounded  the  theory  that 
the  only  way  to  distinguish  Dakus  from  honest  beings 
was  to  hear  them  talk  (the  Dakus,  he  declared,  usually 
shout  at  the  top  of  their  voices  when  conversing,  and  use 
language  far  from  select,  while  well-to-do  Tibetans  speak 
gently  and  with  refinement),  I  thought  the  only  thing  to 
do  was  to  go  and  address  the  people,  when  by  the  tone  of 
voice  we  would  find  out  what  they  were.  This,  however, 
did  not  suit  my  Shokas,  and  we  were  placed  in  rather  a 
curious  position,  for  to  proceed  we  must  either  pass  by 
the  Tibetan  encampment,  or  we  must  march  southward 
round  a  mountain,  which  would  involve  considerable 
trouble,  fatigue,  and  waste  of  time.  We  waited  till  night 
came,  watching,  unseen,  the  Tibetans  below  us.  As  is 
customary  with  them,  they  retired  at  sundown  to  their 
tents.  Leaving  my  men  behind,  I  crawled  into  their 
i.— T  241 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

camp  during  the  night  and  peeped  into  one  of  the  tents. 
The  men  were  squatting  on  the  ground,  round  a  fire  in 
the  centre,  upon  which  steamed  two  vessels  with  stewing 
tea.  One  old  man,  with  strongly  marked  Mongolian 
features,  accentuated  by  the  heavy  shadows  which  were 
cast  by  the  light  of  the  fire  above  his  angular  cheek- 
bones and  prominent  and  wrinkled  brow,  was  busily  re- 
volving his  prayer-wheel  from  left  to  right,  repeating  in  a 
mechanical  way  the  usual  "Omne  mani padme  Jmn"  words 
which  come  from  the  Sanscrit,  and  refer  to  the  reincar- 
nation of  Buddha  from  a  lotus  flower,  meaning,  literally, 
"  O  God,  the  gem  emerging  from  a  lotus  flower."  Two 
or  three  other  men,  whose  faces  I  could  not  well  see,  as 
they  were  stooping  very  low,  were  busy  counting  money 
and  examining  several  articles  of  Indian  manufacture, 
which  undoubtedlv  had  been  seized  from  Shokas.  It 

j 

was  fortunate  that  they  had  no  dogs  in  this  camp,  for 
I,  having  discovered  our  best  way  to  pass  them  unper- 
ceived,  went  back  to  my  men  and  led  them,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  night,  through  the  camp  itself.  We  proceeded 
for  a  mile  or  so  beyond  the  encampment,  and,  having 
selected  a  well-sheltered  spot  where  we  could  rest  with- 
out fear  of  discovery,  we  laid  down  our  loads  and  tried 
to  get  a  few  hours'  sleep.  Waking  at  sunrise,  we  were 
startled  to  find  ourselves  surrounded  by  a  band  of  da- 
coits.  They  were  our  friends  of  the  previous  night,  who 
had  followed  our  tracks,  and,  mistaking  us  for  Shoka 
traders,  had  now  come  for  a  little  festive  looting.  On 
drawing  near  they  were  given  a  somewhat  warm  recep- 
tion, and  their  instant  retreat  was  more  speedy  than  dig- 
nified. 

242 


CHAPTER    XXXIX 

SPIED  AND  FOLLOWED  BY  ROBBERS  —  JOGPAS'  HOSPITALITY — HARES  — 
TIBETAN  CHARMS  RESISTED— ATTEMPT  TO  SNATCH  CHANDEN  SING'S 
RIFLE' OUT  OF  HIS  HANDS  —  THE  RIDGE  BETWEEN  RAKASTAL  AND 
MANSAROWAR  LAKES 

WE  wended  our  way  along  a  narrow  valley  towards  the 
shore  of  the  Devil's  Lake,  halting  to  cook  our  food  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  water's  edge,  and  I  took  this  op- 
portunity to  make  observations  for  longitude  and  altitude 
with  hypsometrical  apparatus.  Water  boiled  at  185° 
with  temperature  of  atmosphere  at  64°. 

I  had  just  repacked  my  instruments,  and  was  lying 
flat  in  the  sun,  some  distance  away  from  my  men,  when  I 
thought  I  saw  something  move.  Jumping  up,  I  beheld 
a  stalwart  Tibetan  stealing  along  the  ground  only  a  few 
yards  away  from  me,  with  the  object,  no  doubt,  of  taking 
possession  of  my  rifle  before  I  had  time  to  discover  him. 
Unfortunately  for  him  he  was  not  quick  enough,  and  all 
that  he  gained  for  his  attempt  was  a  good  pounding  with 
the  butt  of  my  Mannlicher.  He  was  one  of  the  Dak  us 
we  had  seen  in  the  morning,  and  no  doubt  they  had  fol- 
lowed and  spied  upon  us  all  along.  Having  got  over  his 
first  surprise,  the  dacoit,  with  an  amusing  air  of  assumed 
innocence,  requested  us  to  go  and  spend  the  night  in  his 
tent  with  him  and  his  mates.  They  would  treat  us  right 
royally,  he  said.  Being,  however,  well  acquainted  with 
the  hospitality  of  dacoits,  we  declined  the  invitation. 
The  brigand  went  away  somewhat  shaken  and  disap- 

243 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

pointed,  and  we  continued  our  journey  along  the  water- 
edge  of  the  Devil's  Lake  (Rakastal),  where  hundreds  of 
hares  sprang  from  under  our  feet,  several  of  which  I 
killed  with  my  rifle,  using  bullet-cartridges.  There  were 


A    DA  CO  IT 

signs  all  along  that  at  some  previous  epoch  the  level  of 
the  lake  must  have  been  much  higher  than  it  is  at 
present. 

Marching  during  the  day,  we  encountered  many  Tibe- 

244 


DECEIVING   THE   JOGPAS 

tans,  some  of  whom  were  Dogpas,  others  Jogpas.  When 
they  saw  us  approaching  they  generally  bolted,  driving 
their  sheep  or  yaks  in  front  of  them.  Nevertheless,  we 
came  upon  two  Tibetan  women,  very  dirty,  and  their 
faces  smeared  with  black  ointment  to  prevent  the  skin 
from  cracking  in  the  high  wind.  They  were  dressed  in 
long  sheepskin  garments,  wornout  and  filthy,  and  their 
coiffures  were  so  unwashed  that  they  emanated  a  sick- 
ening odor.  I  ordered  them  not  to  come  too  near  us, 
for  although  these  females  had  no  claims  whatever  to 
beauty  —  and,  as  far  as  I  could  see  they  possessed  no 
other  charm,  one  being  old  and  toothless,  the  other  with 
a  skin  like  a  lizard — they  actually  tried  to  decoy  us  to 
their  tents,  possibly  with  the  object  of  getting  us  robbed 
by  their  men.  My  men  seemed  little  attracted  by  the 
comical  speeches  and  gestures  with  which  they  sought  to 
beguile  us,  and  I  pushed  on  so  as  to  be  rid  of  this  un- 
canny pack  as  soon  as  possible. 

Four  Tibetans,  who  attempted  to  snatch  Chanden 
Sing's  rifle  out  of  his  hand,  received  from  him  a  batter- 
ing that  they  were  unlikely  soon  to  forget,  and  after  this 
we  were  fortunately  left  alone  for  the  remainder  of  the 
day.  In  the  evening  Chanden  Sing  fired  at  a  black 
wolf  which  came  close  to  camp,  and  I  discovered,  about 
one  hundred  feet  above  lake -level,  embedded  in  the 
mountain-side,  a  stratum  of  gigantic  fossils,  which,  owing 
to  their  size  and  weight,  I  regretted  to  be  unable  to  dig 
out  and  carry  away. 

Feeling  almost  certain  that  we  were  being  spied  upon 
all  the  time  by  the  numerous  Jogpas  we  had  met,  we  at- 
tempted to  dodge  them  by  pretending  to  encamp  before 
sunset.  However,  we  only  lighted  a  fine  fire,  and  then 
escaped  after  dark,  walking  and  stumbling  for  several 
miles,  until  we  found  a  spot  high  on  the  hill-side  where 

245 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

we  considered  ourselves  safe.  Snow  fell  heavily  during 
the  night,  and,  as  usual,  we  woke  up  with  icicles  hanging 
from  our  mustaches,  eyelashes,  and  hair,  notwithstand- 
ing which  we  really  were  quite  happy  and  well. 

It  was  my  good-fortune  to  make  quite  sure  from  many 
points  that,  as  can  be  seen  from  the  illustration  repro- 
duced in  these  pages,  the  ridge  between  the  Rakastal  and 
Mansarowar  lakes  is  continuous,  and  no  communication 
between  the  two  lakes  exists.  With  the  exception  of  a 
small  depression  about  half-way  across,  the  ridge  has  an 
average  height  of  1000  feet  all  along,  a  fact  which  ought 
in  itself  to  dispose  of  the  theory  that  the  two  lakes  are 
one.  I  also  further  ascertained  from  the  natives  that 
there  is  no  communication  whatever  between  them, 
though  the  depression  in  the  ridge  makes  it  probable 
that  at  a  very  remote  period  some  connection  existed. 
The  lowest  point  in  this  depression  is  over  300  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  lake. 


CHAPTER  XL 

MORE  ROBBERS — THE  FRIENDS  OF  TIBETAN  AUTHORITIES — A  SNAP-SHOT 
— A  MEEK  LOT — PREPOSSESSING  FEMALE  AND  HER  CURIOUS  WAYS — 
THE  PURCHASE  OF  TWO  YAKS 

JUST  before  leaving  the  shores  of  the  Rakastal  I  had  a 
great  slice  of  luck.  It  happened  thus.  We  had  been 
detected  by  another  band  of  dacoits  who  were  trying  their 
hardest  to  overtake  us.  I  had  been  spying  them  with  my 
telescope  as  they  rode  in  our  direction.  They  were  driv- 
ing some  twenty  yaks  in  front  of  them  at  an  unusually 
fast  pace.  The  dacoits  rode  ponies.  We  were  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  ahead  of  them  now,  and  close  to  the  edge 
of  the  Devil's  Lake.  We  saw  them  coming  down  the 
hill-side  at  a  break-neck  speed  straight  in  our  direction. 
It  was  evident  that  they  were  after  us.  My  men  became 
terror-stricken  when  I  gave  the  order  to  halt. 

The  band  of  dacoits  approached  and  left  the  yaks  in 
charge  of  two  women.  When  they  galloped  in  a  line  tow- 
ards us,  my  men,  with  the  exception  of  Chanden  Sing 
and  Mansing,  were  paralyzed  with  fright. 

They  were  now  a  hundred  yards  off.  With  loaded  rifle 
in  one  hand  and  my  camera  in  the  other,  I  advanced  to 
meet  them,  knowing  that,  with  their  old-fashioned  match- 
locks, it  takes  them  a  considerable  time  to  light  the  fuse 
and  fire  a  shot.  Moreover,  it  is  almost  an  impossibility 
for  them  to  fire  on  horseback,  their  weapons  being  heavy 
and  cumbersome. 

I  focused  them  in  my  twin -lens  photographic  appa- 

247 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

ratus,  and  waited  till  I  had  them  well  in  the  field.  I 
snapped  the  shot  when  they  were  only  thirty  yards  away, 
vaulting  over  their  ponies  in  the  act  of  dismounting.  The 
camera,  having  done  its  work,  was  quickly  deposited  on 
the  ground,  and  the  rifle  shouldered.  I  shouted  to  them 
to  put  down  their  weapons,  and  to  give  force  to  my  re- 
quest I  aimed  at  them  with  my  Mannlicher. 

A  meeker  lot  of  brigands  I  do  not  believe  could  be 
found,  though  people  of  that  kind  are  often  brave  when 
it  is  easy  for  them  to  be  courageous.  Their  matchlocks 
were  unslung  from  their  shoulders  with  remarkable  quick- 
ness and  flung  to  the  ground,  and  their  jewelled  swords 
were  laid  by  the  side  of  their  firearms.  They  went  down 
on  their  knees,  and,  taking  off  their  caps  with  both  hands, 
put  out  their  tongues  in  sign  of  salute  and  submission, 
and  I  could  not  help  taking  another  snap-shot  at  them  in 
that  attitude,  which  was  comical,  to  say  the  least  of  it. 

My  bearer,  who  had  been  left  to  look  after  the  baggage, 
had  placed  Mansing  in  charge,  and  was  now  by  my  side 
with  the  Martini- Henry,  when  one  of  the  women,  riding 
astride,  arrived  on  the  scene.  She  was  evidently  furious 
at  the  cowardice  of  her  men,-  and  I  liked  her  for  that. 
She  jumped  off  her  steed,  ejaculated  words  at  the  top  of 
her  voice,  shaking  her  fists  at  the  men  still  kneeling  be- 
fore me,  and  at  last,  foaming  with  rage,  spat  on  them. 
While  thus  haranguing  the  band  of  highwaymen,  she  had 
an  annoying  way  of  pointing  at  my  baggage,  but  her 
speech  seemed  to  have  little  effect  on  the  submissive 
crowd. 

I  therefore  went  up  to  her,  patted  her  on  the  back, 
and  gave  her  a  rupee  to  hold  her  tongue.  She  grabbed 
the  coin  and  rubbed  it  on  her  skin  coat  to  make  the 
silver  shine.  She  instantly  became  calm,  and,  rubbing 
the  coin  until  it  was  quite  bright,  she  raised  her  fiery  eyes, 

248 


BUYING   TWO    YAKS 

staring  into  mine,  and  pulled  out  her  tongue  to  express 
her  thanks. 

Kachi  and  Dola,  who  knew  Tibetan  well,  were  now 
summoned  to  address  the  filibusters  for  me,  and  these  two 
Shokas  were  in  such  trepidation  that  they  could  hardly 
walk,  much  less  speak.  After  a  while,  however,  seeing 
how  well  I  had  these  supposed  terrific  rangers  under,  they 
were  at  last  able  to  translate. 

"  I  want  them  to  sell  me  some  yaks  and  some  ponies," 
I  said.  "  I  will  pay  handsomely  for  them." 

"  They  say  they  cannot.  The  Tarjum  will  cut  their 
heads  off  if  he  comes  to  know  it.  They  will  only  sell  one 
or  two  yaks." 

"Very  good.     How  much  do  they  want?" 

"  Two  hundred  silver  rupees.  But,"  added  Dola,  "  sahib, 
do  not  give  them  more  than  forty.  That  is  a  great  deal 
more  than  they  are  worth.  A  good  yak  costs  from  ten  to 
sixteen  rupees." 

After  some  three  or  four  hours'  bargaining,  during 
which  time  the  bandits  descended  gradually  from  two 
hundred  rupees  to  forty  and  I  rose  from  twenty  to  that 
figure,  we  at  last  agreed,  amid  the  greatest  excitement 
on  both  sides,  that  their  two  best  yaks  should  become 
my  property.  I  then,  becoming  quite  friendly,  purchased 
pack-saddles  from  them,  and  sundry  other  curiosities. 
They  gave  me  tea,  even,  and  tsamba.  The  fiery  woman 
only  had  still  a  peculiar  way  of  keeping  one  eye  fixed  on 
my  baggage,  and  her  envy  of  my  property  seemed  to  in- 
crease when  she  saw  me  paying  for  the  yaks.  If  she  kept 
one  eye  on  my  goods,  I  kept  both  there ;  and  I  took  good 
care  that  my  rifle  was  never  out  of  my  hand,  and  that  no 
one  ever  came  too  near  me  from  behind. 

We  counted  the  money  down,  some  fifty  rupees,  includ- 
ing all  purchases.  Each  coin  was  passed  round  and 

249 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

sounded  by  each  of  our  sellers,  and  when  the  entire  sum 
was  handed  over  the  coins  were  passed  back  and  recount- 


PACK-SADDLES    FOR    YAKS 


ed  so  that  there  should  be  no  mistake.  Time  in  Tibet  is 
not  money,  and  my  readers  must  not  be  surprised  when 
I  tell  them  that  counting,  recounting,  and  sounding  the 

250 


MANAGING   YAKS 

small  amount  took  two  more  hours.  The  two  yaks  were 
eventually  handed  over  to  us.  One,  a  huge,  long-haired, 
black  animal,  restless  and  powerful ;  the  other  equally 
black,  strong,  and  hairy,  but  somewhat  gentler. 

To  catch  them,  separate  them  from  the  herd,  pass  ropes 
through  their  respective  nostrils,  and  tie  pack-saddles 
on  their  backs  were  all  operations  we  as  novices  had  to 
master.  It  was  hard  work  indeed,  but  we  struggled  till 
we  succeeded. 

When  we  parted  we  were  good  friends,  the  bandits  be- 
having admirably,  and  I  made  up  my  mind  that  I  would 
at  any  time  rather  trust  a  bandit  in  Tibet  than  an  official. 


CHAPTER   XLI 

TIBETAN  COATS,  HATS,  AND  BOOTS  —  WHY  A  TIBETAN  PREFERS  TO 
LEAVE  HALF  THE  CHEST  AND  ONE  ARM  BARE — ORNAMENTATIONS — 
MANNER  AND  SPEECH  —  IGNORANCE  AND  SUPERSTITION  —  WAY  OP 
EATING — JOGPA  WOMEN  AND  CHILDREN — HEAD-DRESS 

IN  a  way,  I  was  sorry  when  my  interview  with  the  Jog- 
pas  came  to  an  end,  for,  although  they  were  undoubtedly 
brigands,  they  were  certainly  interesting.  Their  original 
and  curious  dress  and  manner  of  conversation,  their  un- 
usual but  eminently  suitable  mode  of  eating,  and  their 
jovial  freedom  of  demeanor  were  really  quite  refreshing. 
Their  dress  was  quite  representative  of  Tibet,  for  the  men 
wore  a  great  variety  of  coats  and  hats,  probably  owing  to 
the  facility  with  which  they  obtained  them,  and  no  two 
individuals  were  dressed  alike,  though  certain  leading 
characteristics  of  dress  were  conserved  in  each  case.  One 
man  wore  a  gaudy  coat  trimmed  with  leopard-skin,  another 
had  a  Ions:  ffrav  woollen  robe  like  a  dressing-grown,  taken 

o  o       ^  o  o 

up  at  the  waist  by  a  kamarband,  and  a  third  was  garbed 
in  a  loose  raiment  of  sheepskin,  with  the  wool  inside.  Yet 
a  fourth  was  arrayed  in  a  deep-red  tunic,  fastened  by  a 
belt  of  leather  with  silver  ornamentations  inlaid  in  wrought- 

O 

iron  to  hold  a  needle-case,  tinder-pouch  and  steel,  with  a 
bead  hanging  from  the  leather  thong,  and  a  pretty  dagger 
with  sheath  of  ebony,  steel,  and  filigree  silver,  besides  oth- 
er articles,  such  as  a  bullet -pouch  and  bag.  In  their 
kamarbands,  or  belts,  the  Jogpas,  in  common  with  the 
majority  of  Tibetan  men,  wear  a  sword  in  front,  and 
whether  the  coat  is  long  or  short,  it  is  invariably  loose 

252 


A   STRANGE   TIBETAN    CUSTOM 


and  made  to  bulge  at  the  waist  in  order  that  it  may  con- 
tain a  store  of  eating  and  drinking  bowls  (the  pu-kus\ 
snuff-box,  and  sundry 
bags  of  money,  and  tsam- 
ba  and  bricks  of  tea !  It 
is  owing  to  this  custom 
that  most  Tibetan  men, 
when  seen  at  first,  im- 
press one  as  being  very 
stout,  whereas,  as  a  mat- 
ter of  fact,  they  are  some- 
what slight  in  figure.  Tib- 
etans leave  one  arm  and 
part  of  the  chest  bare,  let- 
ting the  sleeve  hang  loose. 
The  reason  for  this  prac- 
tice, which  seems  to  have 
puzzled  many  people,  is 
that  in  Tibet  the  days  are 
very  hot  and  the  nights 
cold  (the  drop  in  the  ther- 
mometer in  Southwest  Tibet  being  at  times  as  much  as 
80°,  and  even  100°),  and  as  the  Tibetans 
always  sleep  in  their  clothes,  the  garments 
that  protect  their  bodies  from  being  fro- 
zen at  night  are  found  too  heavy  and 
warm  in  the  hot  sun,  and  therefore  this 
simple  expedient  is  adopted.  When  sit- 
ting down,  both  arms  are  drawn  from  the 
sleeves  and  the  chest  and  back  are  left 
bare  ;  but  when  on  foot,  one  arm,  usually 
the  left,  is  slipped  in,  to  prevent  the  coat 
and  its  heavy  contents  falling  off. 

I  have  no  hesitation  in  pronouncing 
253 


WHITE  WOOLLEN   COAT   AND   SASHES 


WOOLLEN   SOCKS 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 


SNOW- 
BOOT 


MANS    BOOT, 
MADE   AT   SIGATZ 


the  Tibetan  boots,  from  a  utilitarian  point  of  vie\v,  as  the 
best  in  the  world.  They  have  all  the  advantages  a  boot 
should  possess,  especially  those  with  flat  soles  of  thick 

twisted  cord.  The  upper  part, 
being  made  of  red  and  green  felt, 
keeps  the  foot  warm  without  pre- 
venting ventilation,  and  plenty  of 
spreading  room  is  left  for  the  toes 
when  walking.  The  felt  gaiter, 
reaching  to  just  below  the  knee, 
holds  the  soft  sole  of  the  boot  flat 
under  the  foot,  giving  absolutely 
free  action  to  the  ankle.  The  most 
salient  and  sensible  point  in  the 
Tibetan  foot-gear,  however,  is  that  the  foot,  all  but  the 
top  part,  is  incased  in  the  thick  sole,  thus  preventing 
the  jamming  of  toes  between  stones  when  walking,  for 
instance,  on  debris,  and  also  doing  away  with  the  ac- 
cumulation of  snow  and  mud  between  the  sole  and  boot, 
so  inconvenient  in  our  foot-gear.  There  are  many  va- 
rieties and  makes  of  boots  in  Tibet, 
but  the  principle  is  always  the 
same.  The  boots  are  always  home- 
made, each  individual  making  his 
own,  except  in  large  towns,  where 
foot-gear  can  be  purchased,  and 
necessarily  the  quality  is  then  not 
up  to  the  same  high  standard.  The 
difference  in  Tibetan  boots  is  main- 
ly in  the  quality  or  texture  of  the 
soles ;  for  instance,  the  Lhassa 
boots  have  finer,  softer,  and  more 

elastic  soles  than  those  made  in  Sigatz  (usually  written 
Shigatze),  which  are  quite  hard  and  stiff,  and  supposed  to 

254 


WOMAN  S 
BOOT 


BOOT   MADE 
IN    LHASSA 


TIBETAN    HEAD-GEAR 

wear  out  much  sooner  than  the  more  pliable  ones  of  the 
sacred  city.  Then  there  are  some  with  leather  soles, 
made  specially  for  wet  or  snowy  regions,  and  these,  when 
greased  over,  are  quite  waterproof.  Two  kinds  of  these  are 
in  use,  one  with  pointed  and  curled  toes,  for  cutting  one's 
way  into  the  snow,  the  other  of  the  usual  shape.  Men 
and  women  alike  wear  these  boots.  The  principal  Lamas 
and  officials  of  Tibet  have  adopted  the  Chinese -pattern 
boots  of  leather,  with  heavy  leather  or  wooden  soles  and 
enormous  nails  under  them. 

The  Tibetans  have  innumerable  varieties  of  head-gear. 
The  most  peculiar  of  all,  worn  chiefly  by  soldiers  and 
dacoits,  is  one  in  the  form  of  a  section  of  a  cone  with 
large  rim,  made  entirely  of  twisted  cord  like  that  used  for 
the  soles  of  the  boots,  and  with  a  hole  at  the  top  for  ven- 
tilation. The  conical  part  being  too  small  to  fit  the  head, 
it  is  held  upon  the  skull  by  means  of  two  strings  tied 
under  the  chin.  There  are  also  conical  brown  and  gray 
felt  ones,  not  unlike  filters  used  in  chemical  laboratories, 
and  these,  when  of  the  better  quality,  are  frequently  orna- 
mented with  gold,  blue,  or  red  embroidery  of  Chinese 
manufacture.  An  impressive  head-gear  was  worn  by  the 
medicine-man  attached  to  the  band  of  robbers  I  had  inter- 
viewed. It  resembled  at  first  sight  an  exaggerated  jockey's 
cap  of  red  silk,  but  closer  examination  showed  that  it  con- 
sisted of  two  long  strips  of  red  silk,  well  stretched  on  a 
light  frame  of  bamboo,  and  at  an  angle  of  about  90°.  This 
hat  was  held  on  the  head  by  means  of  a  band  round  the 
back  of  the  head,  and  it  projected  some  fifteen  inches  over 
the  forehead.  In  addition  to  these,  there  are  of  course 
common  cloth  or  fur  caps,  with  ear-flaps;  and  it  is  not  un- 
common to  see,  in  Tibet,  soldiers  wearing  a  silk  kamar- 
band  bound  tightly  round  the  head,  turban-fashion,  with 
one  end  left  hanging  down  over  the  ear.  The  commoner 
i.— u  255 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Tibetan,  however,  is  not  fond  of  covering  his  head,  and 
though  he  often  has  one  or  more  caps  stowed  away  in  the 
loose  folds  of  his  coat,  he  seldom  wears  one  on  his  head 
under  ordinary  circumstances.     This  does 
not  apply  to  officials,  who  are  never  seen 
without  a  circular  cap  of  Chinese   shape, 
surmounted  by  a  topknot. 

HAT   WORN    BY  J  l 

OFFICIALS  All  men,  except  the   Lamas,  who  shave 

their  heads  clean,  wear  a  pigtail,  short  and 
shaggy  at  times,  or  long  and  ornamented  with  a  piece  of 
cloth  in  which  it  is  sewn  and  passed  through  rings  of 
ivory,  bone,  glass,  metal,  or  coral.  Ornaments  of  silver, 
such  as  perforated  coins,  are  much  used  in  adorning  the 
men's  pigtails,  and  coral  and  malachite  ornaments  are 
also  common  in  Tibet  for  the  same  purpose,  and  are 
much  valued  by  the  natives.  Men  wear,  passed  through 
the  lobe  of  the  ear,  an  ear-ring  with  malachite  ornamen- 
tations, and  often  with  an  additional  long  pendant.  It  is 
usually  of  brass  or  silver,  and  occasionally  of  gold.  More 
common  than  the  solitary  ear-ring  is  the  brass  or  silver 
charm-box,  frequently  containing  a  likeness  of  Buddha,, 
which  nearly  every  Tibetan  carries  slung  round  his  neck. 
Tibetans  are,  as  a  rule,  excessively  superstitious  and  fond 
of  charms  of  every  sort.  Their  superstitions  are,  of 
course,  the  result  of  ignorance,  and  so  are  most  of  their 
other  bad  qualities.  Except  among  the  higher  officials 
and  the  Lamas,  education  can  hardly  be  said  to  exist  in 
Tibet,  the  population  being  kept  in  the  most  obscure  ig- 
norance. Few  can  read,  and  none  can  write,  and  the 
Lamas  take  very  good  care  that  only  those  shall  learn 
who  are  likely  to  be  of  use..  Honesty  and  honor  are  two 
qualities  almost  unknown  in  any  class  or  condition  in 
Tibet;  and  as  for  truthfulness,  all  travellers  in  the  country 
can  testify  to  the  practical  impossibility  of  obtaining  it 

256 


APPEARANCE   OF    DACOIT    WOMEN 

from  a  Tibetan.     Cruelty  is  innate  in  them,  and  vice  and 
crime  are  everywhere  rampant. 

That  the  Jogpas  had  good  digestions  was  evident  from 
the  way  they  ate  when,  having  concluded  the  sale  of  the 
yaks,  they  squatted  down  to  a  hearty  meal  of  tsamba, 
chura,  and  tea.  They  took  from  their  coats  their  wooden 
and  metal  pu-kns,  and  quickly  filled  them  with  tsamba ; 
pouring  over  it  some  steaming  tea,  made  as  usual  with 
butter  and  salt  in  a  churn,  they  stirred  it  round  and 
round  the  bowl  with  their  dirty  fingers  until  a  paste  was 
formed,  which  they  rolled  into  a  ball  and  ate,  the  same 
operation  being  repeated  over  and  over  again  until  their 
appetite  was  satisfied.  Each  time,  before  refilling,  the 
bowl  was  licked  clean  by  rotating  the  pii-ku  round  and 
round  the  tongue.  Feeling  the  heat  of  the  sun,  after 
their  meal  both  men  and  women  removed  their  garments 
above  the  waist,  showing  ornaments  of  gold,  silver,  and 
copper  encircling  their  necks. 

The  women  folk  of  the  dacoits,  though  far  from  beauti- 
ful, possessed  a  certain  charm,  arising  from  their  curious 
wildness.  Unlike  those  of  Tibetan  women  generally,  their 
teeth  were  very  good,  and  their  complexions  were  not  spe- 
cially dark,  the  black  ointment  with  which  their  cheeks, 
noses,  and  foreheads  were  smeared  making  them  appear 
darker  than  they  really  were,  and  being  decidedly  unbecom- 
ing. All  had  regular  features,  and  their  eyes  and  mouths 
were  full  of  expression.  Their  hair,  plaited  into  number- 
less little  tresses,  was  brought  up  and  fastened  in  a  grace- 
ful curve  over  the  head,  kept  firm  by  a  red  turban,  which 
was  arranged  to  show  another  row  of  little  tresses  on  the 
forehead,  the  ends  being  joined  in  succession  to  one  an- 
other. They  wore  large  ear-rings  of  gold  inlaid  with 
malachite,  and  were  in  manner  so  unaffected  that  they 
disregarded  even  the  most  primitive  conventions. 

257 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

The  children  were  talkative,  and  had  the  bearing  of 
adults.  They  wore  swords  in  their  belts,  even  at  the 
early  age  of  eight  or  ten  years.  In  a  basket  that  had 
been  carried  by  one  of  the  yaks  I  saw  an  infant  only 
a  few  months  old.  I  caressed  it,  to  the  horror  of  his 
superstitious  mother,  who  snatched  the  child  away  and 
washed  and  rubbed  the  poor  little  fellow's  face  until  the 
skin  was  sore,  declaring  that  children  die  that  are  touched 
by  strangers. 

The  men  were  just  as  bad  in  this,  and  when  I  pur- 
chased some  rice  from  them  they  would  not  let  me  touch 
it  till  it  had  become  my  property.  They  objected  each 
time  that  I  stretched  out  my  arm  to  touch  the  bag  of 
rice,  and  showed  me  eventually  a  handful  of  rice  at  a 
considerable  distance,  to  let  me  judge  of  its  quality.  I 
had  to  purchase  only  the  handful  at  first.  Having  as- 
sured myself  that  it  was  all  right,  I  then  purchased  the 
remainder. 

258 


CHAPTER   XLII 

A  BAKU'S  STRANGE  IDEAS  —  THE  RIDGE  BETWEEN  THE  TWO  LAKES  — 
BLACK  TENTS — CONFRONTING  THE  TWO  LAKES — A  CHAIN  OF  HIGH 
PEAKS — GOMBAS— CHANGE  IN  THE  WEATHER 

WE  had  marched  on  the  same  afternoon  about  half  a 
mile  in  the  direction  of  Mansarowar,  when  we  were  over- 
taken by  one  of  the  Dakus  whom  we  had  left  a  short 
time  before.  He  rode  towards  us,  apparently  in  a  great 
state  of  excitement.  Having  dismounted,  he  drew  his 
sword  and  began  chasing  one  of  my  yaks.  This  seemed 
so  strange  a  proceeding  that  we  were  at  a  loss  to  under- 
stand his  intentions ;  but  as  he  screamed  to  us  that  he 
meant  no  harm,  we  let  him  go  on.  He  eventually  over- 
took one  recalcitrant  yak,  and,  after  a  struggle  with  the 
unfortunate  beast,  he  flung  his  arms  round  its  neck  and 
rested  his  head  between  its  horns.  I  was  anything  but 
pleased  with  these  antics,  fearing  that  this  effusion  was 
only  a  dodge  to  cut  the  beast's  throat.  Much  to  my  as- 
tonishment, I  found  that  the  young  Jogpa  had  seized  a 
tuft  of  the  yak's  hair  with  his  teeth  and  was  trying  to 
tear  it  off,  while  the  unfortunate  beast  was  making  des- 
perate efforts  to  shake  off  its  persecutor.  The  hair 
eventually  gave  way,  and  with  a  mouthful  of  it  hanging 
from  both  sides  of  his  tightly  closed  lips  the  Jogpa  now 
let  go  of  the  animal's  head,  and,  brandishing  his  sword, 
made  a  dash  for  its  tail. 

I  seized  the  man  by  his  pigtail,  while  he  in  his  turn 
clung  to  the  tail  of  the  frightened  yak,  which,  bolting, 
dragged  us  after  it  at  an  unpleasant  pace. 

259 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

The  Jogpa,  in  our  mad  flight,  cut  off  a  long  lock  of  the 
yak's  silky  hair,  and,  having  secured  this,  appeared  to  be 
quite  satisfied,  let  go  and  sheathed  his  sword.  He  con- 
cealed the  stolen  locks  in  his  coat,  and  then  made  pro- 
found obeisances  to  us,  putting  out  his  tongue  as  usual 
and  declaring  that,  unless  that  precaution  is  taken  when 
parting  with  a  beast,  bad  luck  is  sure  to  come  to  you. 
This  closed  the  incident ;  the  Jogpa  rode  away  perfectly 


A    BLACK    YAK 


happy,  and  we  continued  our  march  across  the  stony 
plain  until  we  reached  the  ridge  which  extends  across  it 
and  divides  the  two  sheets  of  water.  We  climbed  up  to 
the  top,  rising  to  16,450  feet,  and,  to  make  certain  that 
the  ridge  really  extended  right  across,  I  made  an  expedi- 
tion about  half  -  way  across,  finding  the  northern  part 
somewhat  lower  than  the  southern,  still  rising  several 
hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lakes.  This  expedi- 

260 


LAKES  RAKASTAL  AND  MAXSAROWAR 

tion  incurred  some  loss  of  time,  and  when  night  came  we 
were  still  on  the  ridge. 

From  our  camping-ground  we  saw  fifteen  black  tents 
on  the  hill-side,  and  to  the  east,  on  the  lake  shore,  there 
was  a  large  Gomba,  or  Lamasery,  with  a  temple  and  a 
number  of  mud  houses.  I  estimated  the  distance  be- 
tween ourselves  and  the  Gomba  at  only  eight  miles — a 
cheering  fact,  because  I  hoped  to  get  fresh  provisions 
there  to  enable  us  to  proceed  more  rapidly  on  our  journey. 
\Vc  were  now  quite  out  of  reach  of  the  Gyanema  sepoys, 
as  well  as  of  the  Barca  Tarjum  and  the  Taklakot  Jong 
Pen,  and  if  we  could  only  obtain  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
food  during  the  night,  and  proceed  by  the  jungle  early 
the  next  day,  there  would  be  little  danger  of  our  being 
overtaken.  The  Shokas  were,  of  course,  again  shaking 
with  fright  at  the  idea  of  entering  a  Tibetan  settlement, 
but  I  told  them  very  firmly  that  we  must  reach  Tucker 
Gomba  and  village  that  night. 

\\  e  had  below  us  the  two  great  lakes,  and  before  I  left 
this  magnificent  panorama  I  could  not  help  taking  a  last 
long  look  at  the  marvellous  scene.  The  Devil's  Lake, 
with  its  broken,  precipitous  shores,  its  rocky  islands  and 
outstretching  peninsulas,  was  far  more  enchanting  to  me 
than  the  sacred  lake  at  its  side,  in  which,  according  to 
tradition,  dwell  Mahadeva  (pronounced  Mahadeve)  and  all 
the  other  good  gods.  Although  the  water  is  equally  blue 
and  limpid,  although  each  lake  has  for  background  the 
same  magnificent  Gangri  chain,  Mansarowar,  the  creation 
of  Brahma,  from  whom  it  takes  its  name,  is  not  nearly  so 
weirdly  fascinating  as  its  neighbor.  Mansarowar  has  no 
ravines  rising  precipitously  from  its  waters,  in  which  their 
vivid  coloring  would  be  reflected  as  in  a  mirror;  it  is  al- 
most a  perfect  oval,  without  indentations.  There  is  a 
stony,  slanting  plain  some  two  miles  wide  between  the 

261 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

water's  edge  and  the  hills  surrounding  it,  except  along 
the  ridge  separating  it  from  the  Rakastal,  where  its  shore 
is  slightly  more  rugged  and  precipitous. 

Directly  south  of  the  lake  is  a  chain  of  high  peaks 
covered  with  snow,  from  which  several  streams  descend. 
From  where  we  stood  we  could  see  evident  signs,  as  in 
the  case  of  the  Rakastal,  that  the  level  of  the  lake  must  at 
one  time  have  been  at  least  thirty  feet  higher  than  it  is  at 
present,  and  the  slanting  bed  of  small  rounded  and  smooth 
stones,  which  extends  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  miles 
beyond  the  water-line,  is  evidence  enough  that  the  water 
must  once  have  been  up  to  that  point.  I  believe  that  it  is 
still  gradually  receding. 

Round  the  lake  there  are  several  tumbling-down  sheds 
in  charge  of  Lamas,  but  only  one  important  Gomba 
(monastery)  and  temple  are  to  be  found — viz.,  at  Tucker 
village. 

I  was  told  that  a  small  Gomba  and  serai  in  charge  of 
Lamas  stand  to  the  northwest  of  the  lake,  but  I  cannot 
vouch  for  the  accuracy  of  the  statement,  as  I  did  not  visit 
them  myself,  and  the  information  I  received  from  Tibetans 
regarding  their  position  and  importance  was  conflicting. 

As  the  nature  of  the  country  suddenly  altered  between 
the  Devil's  Lake  and  Mansarowar,  so,  too,  the  weather 
and  the  temperature  greatly  changed.  Over  the  Rakastal 
we  invariably  saw  a  lovely  blue  sky,  whereas  over  Man- 
sarowar heavy  black  clouds  always  lowered  and  rain  fell 
incessantly.  From  time  to  time  the  wind  blew  off  the 
rain  for  a  few  minutes,  and  lovely  effects  of  light  play- 
ed on  the  water,  but  fresh  clouds,  with  violent  bursts 
of  thunder,  soon  made  the  scene  again  gloomy  and  de- 
pressing. 

It  was  much  warmer  on  the  Mansarowar  side  of  the 
ridge  than  on  the  other,  and,  probably  owing  to  damp- 

262 


MANSAROWAR  THE  HOME  OE  STORMS 

ness,  the  air  seemed  quite  thick  to  breathe,  instead  of 
being  crisp  and  light,  as  it  was  along  the  shores  of  the 
Devil's  Lake.  Indeed,  when  I  recall  the  Mansarowar,  I 
cannot  help  thinking  that  it  is  the  home  not  only  of  the 
gods  but  also  of  all  the  storms. 

263 


CHAPTER    XLIII 

THE  LANGA  TSANGPO — A  TERRIFIC  STORM — DRENCHED  TO  THE  SKIN — 
HEAVY  MARCHING— AGAINST  THE  GODS— DIFFICULTY  IN  FINDING  THE. 
LAMASERY  AND  VILLAGE— A  BARK!  —  ARRIVAL  AT  LAST  —  GENTLE 
TAPPING — UNDER  A  ROOF 

WE  descended  some  two  miles  to  the  plain,  and  crossed 
a  rapid  delta  of  the  Langa  Tsangpo,  or  Langa  River ;  then 
another,  a  mile  farther.  As  these  rivers  came  directly 
from  the  snows,  the  water  was  very  cold,  and  often  three 
or  four  feet  deep,  owing  to  the  thawing  of  the  snow  and 
ice  during  the  day. 

No  sooner  had  we  reached  the  shores  of  the  Mansaro- 
war  than  the  heavy  clouds  which  had  been  hanging  over 
our  heads  poured  forth  such  a  torrent  of  rain  that  in  a 
moment  we  were  drenched  to  the  skin.  We  were  march- 
ing very  fast,  as  all  our  heavy  loads  were  now  on  the  two- 
yaks,  but  night  was  well  advanced,  and  the  darkness  was 
such  that  we  could  only  see  a  few  inches  in  front  of  us. 
We  were  actually  walking  in  an  inch  or  two  of  water,  and 
a  fierce  southeast  wind  drove  the  rain  and  hail  so  hard 
into  our  faces  and  hands  as  to  cause  us  considerable  pain. 
WTe  were  frozen  in  our  wet  garments,  and  our  teeth  were 
chattering,  though-  we  walked  quickly,  keeping  close  to- 
gether. From  time  to  time  a  bright  flash  of  lightning 
shone  on  the  lake,  followed  by  a  terrific  crash  of  thunder^ 
and  by  what  we  could  see  during  those  few  seconds  of 
light  we  tried  to  steer  our  way  towards  Tucker  village 
and  Gomba. 

The  rivers,  swollen  by  the  rain,  were  extremely  difficult 

264 


THE    HOME   OF   THE   GODS 

to  cross,  and  the  water  seemed  to  flow  so  rapidly  on  the 
inclined  bed  that  it  was  all  we  could  do  to  keep  on  our 
feet.  So  wet  were  we  that  we  did  not  even  take  the 
trouble  to  remove  our  shoes  or  garments,  and  we  splashed 
through,  clothes  and  all.  Three  times  we  went  into  the 
freezing  water  above  our  waists,  and  then  we  marched  for 
apparently  endless  miles  on  the  pebbly  and  stony  incline. 
\Ve  could  not  see  where  we  were  going,  and  the  storm 
seemed  to  grow  worse  every  moment,  and  we  stumbled 
on  amid  large  stones  and  bowlders,  and  fell  over  one  an- 
other on  slippery  rocks.  Farther  on  we  sank  up  to  our 
knees  in  mud,  and  each  time  that  we  lifted  afoot  it  seemed 
to  be  of  lead.  It  was  a  downpour  such  as  I  had  seldom 
before  experienced. 

"  Are  you  quite  sure,  Kachi,  that  this  lake  is  the  home 
of  the  gods  ?"  I  inquired  of  Kachi.  "  Why,  even  on  the 
Devil's  Lake  we  had  better  weather  than  this." 

"Yes,  sir,"  replied  Kachi.  "But  you  make  the  gods 
angry,  and  that  is  why  they  send  thunder,  hail,  and  rain  to 
stop  your  progress.  You  are  going  on  against  the  gods, 
sir." 

"  Never  mind,  Kachi.      It  cannot  pour  forever." 

At  midnight  we  had  no  idea  of  our  position ;  still  we 
pushed  on. 

"  Have  we  passed  the  Gomba  ?  Have  we  not  yet  reached 
it?"  were  the  questions  we  asked  each  other.  It  seemed 
to  me  that,  at  the  rate  we  were  going,  we  ought  by  now 
to  be  very  near  the  place,  and  yet  after  another  hour's 
tramp  we  had  not  struck  it.  I  was  under  the  belief  that 
we  had  gone  about  nine  miles,  and  I  expressed  the  opin- 
ion that  we  had  passed  it,  but  the  Shokas  insisted  that  we 
had  not,  so  we  again  proceeded. 

We  had  hardly  gone  five  hundred  yards  when  we  heard 
a  faint,  distant,  and  most  welcome  dog's  bark.  It  came 

265 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

from  the  northwest,  and  we  surmised  that  it  must  come 
from  Tucker.  We  had  steered  too  far  south  of  the  place, 
which  accounted  for  our  missing  it  in  the  darkness. 

Guided  by  the  yelping,  we  hastily  directed  our  steps 
towards  the  settlements.  The  dog's  solitary  howl  was  at 
once  supplemented  by  fifty  more  angry  barks,  and  though 
we  knew  by  the  sound  that  we  were  approaching  the  vil- 
lage, it  was  so  dark  and  stormy  that  we  could  not  find  the 
place.  Only  when  we  found  ourselves  close  to  the  mud 
huts  could  we  be  certain  that  we  had  at  last  arrived. 

It  was  now  between  2  and  3  A.M.  The  rain  still  came 
down  in  torrents,  and,  alas !  there  was  no  sign  of  any  of 
the  inhabitants  bein^  willing  to  o:\ve  us  shelter.  It  was 

o  o  o 

quite  out  of  the  question  to  pitch  our  little  tente  cfabri, 
for  our  things  were  already  wringing  wet. 

The  noise  we  made  tapping  outside  a  door  was  deter- 
mined, so  much  so  that  the  door  itself  nearly  gave  way. 
This  was  a  shelter-house,  a  serai  for  pilgrims ;  and  as  we 
claimed  to  be  pilgrims,  we  had,  by  the  laws  of  the  country, 
a  right  to  admission.  The  Kutial  Nattoo,  who  had  once 
before  reached  this  lake  by  a  different  route,  led  us  to  this 
house. 

"  You  are  dacoits,"  said  a  hoarse  voice  from  inside,  "  or 
you  would  not  come  at  this  hour." 

"  No,  we  are  not,"  we  entreated.  "  Please  open.  We 
are  well-to-do  people.  We  will  harm  no  one.  and  pay  for 
all." 

"  Middu,  MidduT  (Cannot  be,  no !)  "  You  are  dacoits. 
I  will  not  open." 

To  show  that  we  were  not  what  they  imagined,  faithful 
Chanden  Sing  and  Dola  tapped  again  so  gently  at  the 
door  that  the  bolt  gave  way.  The  next  moment  ten 
strangers  were  squatting  down  round  a  warm  fire,  drying 
their  shrivelled- up,  soaked  skins  by  the  flame  of  dried 

266 


AN    INHOSPITABLE    LANDLORD 

tamarisk  and  dung.  The  landlord,  a  doctor,  by-the-way, 
was  reassured  when  he  saw  that  we  had  no  evil  intentions, 
and  found  some  silver  coins  in  the  palm  of  his  hand.  Yet 
he  said  he  would  rather  that  we  slept  somewhere  else ; 
there  was  a  capital  empty  hut  next  door. 

On  our  agreeing  to  this,  he  conducted  us  to  the  place, 
and  we  spent  the  remainder  of  the  night  there,  or  rather 
the  early  morning. 

267 


CHAPTER   XLIV 

THE  INTERIOR  OF  A.  SERAI — VERMIN  —  FISH,  LOCAL  JEWELRY.  AND 
POTTERY  FOR  SALE — FAVORITE  SHAPES  AND  PATTERNS — HOW  POT- 
TERY IS  MADE 

OUR  abode  was  a  one -storied  house  built  of  stones 
and  mud,  with  a  flat  roof.  There  were  two  rooms,  the 
first  lighted  by  the  door,  the  second  and  larger  having  a 
square  aperture  in  the  ceiling  for  the  triple  purpose  of 
ventilation,  lighting,  and  outlet  for  the  smoke  of  the  fire, 
which  burned  directly  underneath  in  the  centre  of  the 
room.  The  beams  and  rafters  supporting  the  roof  had 
been  brought  over  from  the  other  side  of  the  Himahlyas, 
because  no  wood  is  to  be  found  in  Western  Tibet. 

This  serai  was  in  charge  of  a  young,  half -demented 
Lama,  who  was  most  profuse  in  salutations,  and  who  re- 
mained open-mouthed,  gazing,  at  us  for  a  considerable 
time.  He  was  polite  and  attentive  in  helping  to  dry  our 
things  in  the  morning,  and  whenever  we  asked  for  any- 
thing he  ran  out  of  the  serai  in  frantic  fits  of  merriment, 
always  bringing  in  what  we  required. 

The  heavy  storm  during  the  night  had  flooded  our  room, 
and  there  was  only  one  corner  slightly  drier  than  the  rest 
of  the  floor,  where  we  all  slept  huddled  together.  These 
serais  have  no  claim  to  cleanliness,  and  on  this  occasion 
all  the  minor  animal  life  that  inhabited  the  floor  had,  with 
a  view  to  avoiding  the  water,  retreated  to  the  higher  por- 
tion of  the  room,  which  we  also  had  selected,  so  that  one 
more  trial  was  added  to  all  our  other  miseries,  for  we  were 
half  devoured  by  a  variety  of  "  insects."  This,  indeed,  was 

268 


COINS    AND    JEWELS 

a  dreadful  pest,  and  one  from  which  we  suffered  inde- 
scribable agonies,  not  only  on  this  occasion,  but  whenever 
we  halted  near  Tibetan  camps.     When  we  rose  in  the 
morning  the  room  was  full  of  Tib- 
etan  men,  women,  and    children, 
who  seemed  very  good  -  natured 
and  friendly. 

"  Tanga  chick  /"  (a  silver  coin 
equivalent  to  half  a  rupee)  cried 
an  old  woman,  who  stuck  a  dried 
fish  under  my  nose,  professing 
volubly  that  it  had  been  caught 
in  Mansarowar,  and  that  it  would  SILVER  LHASSA  COINS 
make  the  possessor  the  happiest 

of  mortals.  Others  unrolled,  from  pieces  of  red  cloth, 
jewelry  in  the  form  of  brooches,  rings,  and  ear-rings 
of  brass  or  silver  inlaid  with  malachite. 

"  Gurmoh  sum  /"  (three  rupees) ;  " Diu,  diu,  diu  "  (Yes, 
yes,  yes);  " Karuga  nil"  (two  two-anna  pieces);  "  Gieut- 
chcke  r  (a  four-anna  piece),  and  so  on,  all  talking  at  the 
same  time  in  their  anxiety  to  dispose  of  their  goods. 


COPPER  COINS 

EAR-RING   WORN    BY   MEN 

The  jewelry  was  of  local  manufacture,  and  in  some 
cases  the  pieces  of  malachite  were  firmly  set,  but  usually 
a  kind  of  paste  is  used  for  holding  the  stones,  and  conse- 
quently, pretty  as  the  jewels  are,  they  soon  break. 

The  ear-rings  are  usually  better  made  than  the  brooches, 
but  the  most  interesting  of  all,  because  simpler  and  more 
characteristic,  are  the  flat  silver  charms,  such  as  the  one  I 
i. — v  269 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 


SILVER   CHARM 


give  in  the  illustration  below,  ornamented  with  primitive 
design.  This  particular  one,  which  is  now  in  my  posses- 
sion, is  of  great  antiquity,  the  edges  being  much  worn 
down.  It  has  the  lotus  pattern  in  the  centre  and  leaf 

ornamentations  filled  in 
with  lines  radiating  from 
a  parent  stem.  Concen- 
tric circles  occupy  the  in- 
ner square,  which  also  con- 
tains circular  dots  in  sets 
of  threes  and  contiguous 
semicircles.  Triangles 
filled  in  with  parallel 
lines  are  a  favorite  form 
of  ornamentation  in  Tib- 
etan work,  and  perhaps 
most  popular  of  all  in  the 

mind  of  the  Tibetan  artist  is  the  square  or  the  lozenge 
outline,  with  a  special  inclination  towards  purely  geo- 
metrical patterns,  a  preference  probably  inherited  from 
their  Mongolian  origin. 

The  most  interesting  objects  to  me  at 
Tucker  were   the    specimens   of   pottery 
made  by  the  natives,  which  is  manufact- 
ured from  clay  of  fine  quality,  although 
it  is  not  properly  beaten  previous  to  be- 
ing worked  into  vases,  jugs,  etc.    Moulds 
are  used  to  fashion  the  bases  of  the  larger    GOLD-AND-MALA- 
vessels,  and  the  inner  part  is  shaped  by      CHITE  BROOCH 
the  hand ;  a  rough  turning-machine  sim- 
plifies the  finishing  of  the  upper  part  of  the  vase,  leaving 
it  comparatively  smooth.     Two  handles  with  rough  line 
ornamentations  are  added  to  the  larger  vessels,  but  one 
suffices  for  the  jars  with  longer  neck  and  small  aperture. 

270 


A   TIBETAN   FOETUNB   TELLER. 


MANSAROWAR   POTTERY 

The  two  patterns  reproduced  in  the  following  illustra- 
tion are  those  more  commonly  adopted ;  the  color  is  a 
light  grayish  terra-cotta,  left  fairly  smooth  and  unvar- 
nished. They  are  well  burned,  in  primitive  furnaces,  the 
Lamas  showing  much  skill  in  the  manufacture  of  these 


MANSAROWAR    POTTERY 


vessels,  which  find  a  ready  market  among  the  pilgrims 
to  the  sacred  lake.  The  tools  used  in  fashioning  the 
vessels  are  extremely  simple — a  piece  of  flat  stone  and 
two  or  three  wands  of  wood,  beyond  which  the  Tucker 
potter  does  not  really  require  more  than  his  fingers  and 
his  nails  to  accomplish  his  work. 

271 


CHAPTER   XLV 

FRIENDLY  LAMAS— CHANDEN  SING  AND  MANSING  PURIFIED— MANSING'S 
SARCASM— PILGRIMS  TO  MANSAROWAR  AND  THEIR  PRIVILEGES— FOR 
LUCK  ! — OUTSIDE  THE  GOMBA 

SEVERAL  Lamas  came  to  visit  me  in  the  morning,  and 
professed  to  be  pleased  to  see  me ;  in  fact,  they  asked  me 
to  go  and  pay  them  a  visit  in  the  Lamasery  and  temple. 
They  said  there  was  much  sickness  in  the  village,  and,  as 
they  believed  me  to  be  a  Hindoo  doctor,  they  wished  I 
could  do  something  to  relieve  their  sufferings.  I  prom- 
ised to  do  all  I  could,  and  was  very  glad  to  have  this 
unique  chance  of  visiting  a  Lamasery  and  of  studying 
the  cases  that  would  be  brought  before  me.  I  carried 
my  rifle  in  my  hand  even  during  this  friendly  visit  to  the 
Lamas. 

When  I  came  out  of  our  stuffy,  dark  room,  preceded 
and  followed  by  a  crowd  of  inquisitive  natives,  I  had  a 
good  look  round  this  strange  village.  After  the  storm 
of  the  night,  we  did  not  have  the  beautiful  blue  sky  that 
might  have  been  expected,  but  over  us  hung  threatening 
clouds,  while  the  waters  of  the  sacred  lake,  softly  moved 
by  the  wind,  made  a  gentle  lapping  sound  on  the  beach. 
Chanden  Sing  and  Mansing,  the  two  Hindoos,  divested 
of  all  their  clothing  except  a  doti,  were  squatting  near 
the  edge  of  the  lake,  having  their  heads  shaved  clean  by 
Bijesing  the  Johari.  I  must  confess  that  I  was  some- 
what annoyed  when  I  saw  them  using  my  best  razor  for 
the  purpose,  but  I  repressed  my  anger  on  remembering 


SIVA,  THE   GREATEST   OF   ALL   GODS 

that,  according  to  their  religion,  the  fact  of  being  at 
Mansarowar  absolved  them  from  all  sins.  My  two  ser- 
vants, with  heads  turned  towards  Kelas  Mount,  seemed 
excited,  and  were  praying  so  fervently  that  I  stood  to 
watch  them.  They  washed  themselves  repeatedly  in  the 
water  of  the  lake,  and  at  last  plunged  into  it.  On  com- 
ing out  shivering,  they  each  took  out  of  their  clothes 
a  silver  rupee  and  flung  it  into  the  lake  as  an  offering 
to  the  God  Mahadeva.  Then,  with  hairless  faces  and 
heads,  they  dressed  and  came  to  pay  their  salaams  to 
me,  professing  to  be  now  happy  and  pure. 

"  Siva,  the  greatest  of  all  gods,  lives  in  the  waters  of 
Mansarowar!"  exclaimed  my  bearer,  in  a  poetic  mood. 
"  I  have  bathed  in  its  waters,  and  of  its  waters  I  have 
drunk.  I  have  salaamed  the  great  Kelas,  the  sight  of 
which  alone  can  absolve  all  sins  of  humanity;  I  shall  now 
go  to  heaven." 

"  I  shall  be  satisfied  if  we  get  as  far  as  Lhassa,"  grum- 
bled the  sceptical  Mansing,  out  of  ear-reach  of  the  Tib- 
etans. 

Chanden  Sing,  who  was  well  versed  in  religious  matters, 
explained  that  only  Hindoo  pilgrims  who  had  lost  both 
parents  shaved  their  heads  on  visiting  Mansarowar,  as  a 
sacrifice  to  Siva,  and,  if  they  were  of  a  high  caste,  on  their 
return  to  their  native  land  after  the  pilgrimage  it  was 
customary  to  entertain  all  the  Brahmins  of  the  town  to  a 
banquet.  A  man  who  had  bathed  in  Mansarowar  was 
held  in  great  respect  by  everybody,  and  commanded  the 
admiration  and  envy  of  the  entire  world. 

The  Mansarowar  Lake  is  about  forty-six  miles  round, 
and  those  pilgrims  who  wish  to  attain  a  greater  state  of 
sanctity  make  a  kora,  or  circuit,  on  foot  along  the  water- 
line.  The  journey  occupies  from  four  to  seven  days,  ac- 
cording to  circumstances,  and  one  trip  round  will  absolve 

273 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

the  pilgrim  from  ordinary  sins ;  twice  the  circuit  clears 
the  conscience  of  any  murder ;  and  three  times  will  make 
honest  and  good  a  person  who  has  killed  his  or  her  father, 
mother,  brother,  or  sister.  There  are  fanatics  who  make 
the  tour  on  their  knees,  others  accomplish  the  distance 
lying  down  flat  at  each  step  on  their  faces,  similar  to  the 
pilgrims  to  Kelas. 

According  to  legend,  Mansarovvar  was  created  by 
Brahma,  and  he  who  shall  bathe  in  its  waters  will  share 
the  paradise  of  Mahadeva.  No  matter  what  crimes  he 
may  have  previously  committed,  a  dip  in  the  holy  lake  is 
sufficient  to  purge  the  soul  as  well  as  the  body.  To 
please  my  men,  therefore,  and  perhaps  bring  myself  some 
luck,  I,  too,  hurled  a  couple  of  coins  into  the  water. 

The  purifying  ablutions  being  over,  I  ordered  Chan- 
den  Sing  to  take  his  rifle  and  follow  me  into  the  Gomba, 
as  the  Lamas  were  so  polite  that  I  feared  treachery  on 
their  part. 

The  large  square  building,  with  its  walls  painted  red 
and  its  flattish  dome  of  gilt  copper,  rose  by  the  water- 
side, and  was  both  picturesque  and  handsome  in  its  se- 
vere simplicity. 

There  came  sounds  from  inside  of  deep,  hoarse  voices 
muttering  prayers,  the  tinkling  of  bells  and  clanging  of 
cymbals.  From  time  to  time  a  drum  was  beaten,  giving 
a  hollow  sound,  and  an  occasional  and  sudden  touch 
upon  a  gong  caused  the  air  to  vibrate  until  the  notes,  in 
a  gradual  diminuendo,  were  carried  away  over  the  holy 
lake. 

274 


CHAPTER  XLVI 

ENTERING  THE  LAMASERY — THE  LAMA's  DWELLING — NOVICES — WERE 
WE  IN  A  TRAP? — IMAGES — OBLATIONS — URCHIN — THE  HOLY  WATER, 
THE  VEIL  OF  FRIENDSHIP,  AND  ABSOLUTION  —  MUSICAL  INSTRU- 
MENTS, BOOKS,  ETC. — GOD  AND  THE  TRINITY— HEAVEN  AND  HELL — 
A  MYSTERY 

AFTER  Chanden  Sing  and  I  had  entered  into  the  Lama- 
sery, the  large  door,  which  had  been  pushed  wide  open, 
was  immediately  closed.  We  were  in  a  spacious  court- 
yard, three  sides  of  which  had  two  tiers  of  galleries  sup- 
ported by  columns.  This  was  the  Lhaprang,  or  Lama's 
house,  and  directly  in  front  of  me  was  the  Lha  Kang,  or 
temple,  the  floor  of  which  was  raised  some  five  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  ground,  with  a  very  large  door  leading 
into  it.  At  this  entrance  were,  one  on  either  side,  re- 
cesses, in  which,  by  the  side  of  a  big  drum,  squatted  two 
Lamas  with  books  of  prayers  before  them,  a  praying- 
wheel  and  a  rosary  in  their  hands,  the  beads  of  which 
they  shifted  after  every  prayer.  At  our  appearance  the 
monks  ceased  their  prayers  and  beat  the  drums  in  an  ex- 
cited manner.  From  what  I  could  judge,  there  was  a 
commotion  in  the  Gomba.  Lamas,  old  and  young,  rushed 
to  and  fro  out  of  their  rooms,  while  a  number  of  Chabis, 
or  novices — boys  between  the  ages  of  twelve  and  twenty — 
lined  the  banisters  of  the  upper  veranda  with  expressions 
of  evident  suspense  and  curiosity  depicted  on  their  faces. 
No  doubt  the  Lamas  had  prepared  a  trap  for  us.  I 
warned  Chanden  Sing  to  be  on  the  alert,  and  set  him  on 
guard  at  the  entrance  of  the  temple,  while  I,  depositing  a 

275 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

few  silver  coins  on  the  drum  of  the  Lama  to  my  right, 
took  off  my  shoes  in  sign  of  respect,  and,  much  to  the 
amazement  of  the  monks,  quietly  entered  the  house  of 
worship.  Partly  astonished  at  the  sight  of  the  silver,  and 
more  so  at  my  want  of  caution,  the  Lamas,  of  whom  there 
was  a  good  number  in  the  court-yard,  remained  motion- 
less and  mute.  The  High  Lama,  or  Father  Superior  of 
the  Monastery,  at  last  came  forward,  stooping  low,  and 


ENTRANCE  TO  THE  TUCKER  TEMPLE 


placing  one  thumb  above  the  other,  with  his  tongue  hang- 
ing out  to  show  his  superlative  approval  of  my  visit  to 
the  many  images  representing  deities  or  sanctified  Bud- 
dhist heroes  which  were  grouped  along  the  walls  of  the 
temple.  The  largest  of  these  were  about  five  feet  high, 
the  others  about  three  feet.  Some  were  carved  out  of 
wood,  their  drapery  and  ornaments  being  fairly  artistic  in 
arrangement  and  execution,  while  others  were  fashioned 

276 


INTERIOR   OF   THE    TEMPLE 

in  gilt  metal.  There  were  a  number  in  a  sitting  posture 
and  some  standing  erect,  and  they  all  rested  on  ornament- 
ed pedestals  or  plainer  bases  painted  blue,  red,  white,  and 
yellow.  Many  wore  the  ancient  Chinese  double-winged 
cap,  as  used  to  this  day  by  Corean  officials,  and  were 
placed  in  recesses  in  the  wall  decorated  with  stuffs,  wood 
carvings,  and  rough  paintings  of  images. 

At  the  foot  of  these  images  was  a  long  shelf,  on  which, 
in  bright  brass  vessels  of  all  sizes,  were  oblations  of 
tsamba,  dried  fruit,  chura,  wheat,  and  rice,  offered  through 
the  Lamas  by  the  devotees  to  the  different  saints. 
Some  of  the  ears  of  barley  were  ornamented  with  imita- 
tion leaves  of  murr  (butter),  colored  red,  blue,  and  yel- 
low. 

The  ceiling  of  the  temple  was  draped  in  red  woollen 
cloth  similar  to  that  of  the  clothes  worn  by  the  Lamas 
themselves,  and  from  it  hung  hundreds  of  strips  of  silk, 
wool,  and  cotton  of  all  imaginable  colors.  The  roof  was 
supported  by  columns  of  wood  forming  a  quadrangle  in 
the  centre  of  the  temple  and  joined  by  a  balustrade,  com- 
pelling the  worshippers  to  make  a  circuit  from  left  to 
right  in  order  to  pass  before  the  several  images.  In  a 
shrine  in  the  central  part  of  the  wall  facing  the  entrance 
was  Urghin,  or  Kunjuk-chick  (God  alone),  and  in  front 
of  it,  on  a  kind  of  altar  covered  with  a  carpet,  a  collection 
of  donations  far  more  abundant  than  those  offered  to  the 
other  images. 

The  Lama,  pointing  at  it,  told  me  that  it  was  a  good 
God,  and  so  I  salaamed  it  and  deposited  a  small  offering 
in  a  handy  collection -box,  which  seemed  to  please  the 
Lama  greatly,  for  he  at  once  fetched  a  holy-water  am- 
phora, hung  with  long  veils  of  friendship  and  love,  and 
poured  some  scented  liquid  on  the  palms  of  my  hands. 
Then,  producing  a  strip  of  veil,  he  wetted  it  with  the 

277 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAM) 

scent  and  presented  it  to  me.  The  majority  of  pilgrims 
generally  go  round  the  inside  of  the  temple  on  their 
knees,  but,  notwithstanding  that,  to  avoid  offending  prej- 
udices, I  generally  follow  the  principle  of  doing  in  Rome 
as  the  Romans  do,  I  could  not  here  afford  the  chance  of 
placing  myself  at  such  a  disadvantage  in  case  of  a  sur- 
prise. The  High  Lama  explained  the  different  images 
and  threw  handfuls  of  rice  over  them  as  he  called  them 
by  their  respective  names,  all  of  which  I  tried  hard  to 
remember,  but,  alas !  before  I  could  get  back  to  the  serai 
and  scribble  down  their  appellations  they  had  all  escaped 
my  memory.  A  separate  entrance  led  from  the  living 
part  of  the  monastery  into  the  temple. 

Lights,  burning  in  brass  bowls,  their  wicks  being  fed 
with  melted  butter,  were  scattered  on  the  floor  in  the 
central  quadrangle,  and  near  them  lay  oblong  books  of 
prayers  printed  on  the  smooth  yellow  Tibetan  paper 
made  from  a  fibrous  bark.  Near  these  books  were  small 
drums  and  cymbals.  One  double  drum,  I  noticed,  was 
made  from  reversed  sections  of  human  skulls,  and  my  at- 
tention was  also  attracted  by  some  peculiar  head -gear 
worn  by  the  Lamas  during  their  services  and  ceremonies. 
On  these  occasions  they  not  only  accompany  their  chant- 
ing and  prayers  with  the  beating  of  drums  and  clashing 
of  cymbals,  but  they  at  the  same  time  make  a  noise  on 
cane  flutes,  tinkle  hand  -  bells,  and  sound  a  large  gong. 
The  noise  of  these  instruments  is  at  times  so  great  that 
the  prayers  themselves  are  quite  inaudible.  Unfortu- 
nately, I  failed  to  see  any  of  the  awe-inspiring  masks 
which  are  used  by  Lamas  in  their  eccentric  and  mystic 
dances,  during  which,  when  the  Lamas  spend  the  whole 
day  in  the  temple,  they  consume  much  tea  with  butter 
and  salt  in  it,  which  is  brought  to  them  in  cups  by 
Lamas  of  an  inferior  order  acting  as  servants.  They 

278 


KUNJUK-SUM 

pass  hour  after  hour  in  their  temples,  apparently  abso- 
lutely absorbed  in  praying  to  the  God  above  all  gods, 
the  incarnation  of  all  the  saints  together  united  in  a 
trinity,  the  Kunjuk-Sum. 

Kunjuk  -  Sum,  translated  literally,  means  "  the  three 
deities,"  and  some  take  it  to  refer  to  the  elements — air, 
water,  and  fire — which  in  the  Tibetan  mind  are  symbols  of 
speech,  charity,  and  force,  and  life.  One  great  point  in 
Buddhism,  as  every  one  knows,  is  the  advocation  of  love 
and  respect  to  one's  father  and  mother,  and  the  prohibi- 
tion against  injuring  one's  neighbors  in  any  way.  Ac- 
cording to  the  precepts  contained  in  some  eight  hundred 
volumes  called  the  Kajars,  the  Tibetans  believe  in  a 
heaven  (the  Deva  Tsembo)  free  from  all  anxieties  of  hu- 
man existence,  full  of  love  and  joy,  and  ruled  over  by  a 
god  of  infinite  goodness,  helped  by  countless  disciples 
called  the  Chanchubs,  who  spend  their  existence  in  per- 
forming charitable  deeds  among  living  creatures.  \Yith 
a  number  of  intermediate  places  of  happiness  and  punish- 
ment they  even  believe  in  a  hell,  where  the  souls  of  sin- 
ners are  tormented  bv  fire  and  ice. 

j 

"  God  sees  and  knows  everything,  and  He  is  every- 
where," exclaimed  the  Lama,  "  but  we  cannot  see  Him. 
Only  the  Chancliubs  can  see  and  speak  to  Him." 

"  What  are  the  evil  qualities  to  be  mostly  avoided  ?" 
I  inquired  of  the  High  Lama,  who  spoke  a  little  Hin- 
dustani. 

"  Luxury,  pride,  and  envy,"  he  replied. 

"  Do  you  ever  expect  to  become  a  saint  ?"  I  asked 
him. 

"  Yes,  I  hope  so,  but  it  takes  five  hundred  transmigra- 
tions of  an  uncontaminated  soul  before  one  can  be  one." 

Then,  as  if  waking  to  a  sudden  thought,  he  seized  my 
hand  impulsively  and  spread  my  fingers  open.  Having 

279 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

done  this,  he  muttered  two  or  three  words  of  surprise. 
His  face  became  serious,  even  solemn,  and  he  treated  me 
with  strange  obsequiousness.  Rushing  out  of  the  tem- 
ple, he  went  to  inform  the  other  Lamas  of  his  discovery, 
whatever  it  was.  They  crowded  round  him,  and  from 
their  words  and  gestures  it  was  easy  to  see  that  they 
were  bewildered. 

When  I  left  the  company  of  the  strange  idols  and 
came  into  the  court-yard,  every  Lama  wished  to  examine 
and  touch  my  hand,  and  the  sudden  change  in  their  be- 
havior was  to  me  a  source  of  curiosity,  until  I  learned 
the  real  cause  of  it  some  weeks  later. 

280 


CHAPTER   XLVII 

THE  JONG  PEN'S  STATEMENTS  REGARDING  ME— SECTS  OF  LAMAS— LA- 
MASERIES— GOVERNMENT  ALLOWANCE— IGNORANCE  OF  THE  CROWDS 
— HOW  LAMAS  ARE  RECRUITED — LAMAS,  NOVICES,  AND  MENIALS- 
DANCES  AND  HYPNOTISM  — INFALLIBILITY— CELIBACY  AND  VICE- 
SCULPTORS — PRAYER-WHEELS  AND  REVOLVING  INSTRUMENTS — NUN- 
NERIES— HUMAN  BONES  FOR  EATING-VESSELS  AND  MUSICAL  INSTRU- 
M  i:\TS — BLOOD-DRINKING 

BEFORE  I  left  the  monastery,  the  Lamas,  who  had  now 
become  more  or  less  accustomed  to  me,  asked  me  many 
questions  regarding  India  and  concerning  medicine. 
These  seemed  to  be  subjects  of  great  interest  to  them. 
They  also  questioned  me  as  to  whether  I  had  heard  that 
a  young  sahib  had  crossed  over  the  frontier  with  a  large 
army,  which  the  Jong  Pen  of  Taklakot  had  defeated,  be- 
heading the  sahib  and  the  principal  members  of  the  ex- 
pedition. 

I  professed  to  be  ignorant  of  these  facts,  and  so  I  really 
was,  though  I  naturally  felt  much  amused  at  the  casual 
way  in  which  the  Jong  Pen  of  Taklakot  had  disposed  of 
the  bear-skin  before  he  had  even  caught  the  bear  itself. 
The  Lamas  took  me  for  a  Hindoo  doctor,  owing  to  the 
color  of  my  face,  which  was  sunburned  and  had  long 
remained  unwashed,  and  they  thought  that  I  was  on  a 
pilgrimage  of  circumambulation  round  the  Mansarowar 
Lake.  They  appeared  anxious  to  know  whether  illnesses 
were  cured  by  occult  sciences  in  India,  or  by  medicines 
only.  I,  who,  on  the  other  hand,  was  more  interested  in 
getting  information  than  in  giving  it,  turned  the  conversa- 
tion on  the  Lamas  themselves. 

281 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

Of  course  I  knew  that  there  are  sects  of  red,  yellow, 
white,  and  black  Lamas,  the  red  ones  being  the  older  and 
more  numerous  throughout  the  country;  next  to  them 
come  the  yellow  Lamas,  the  Gelupkas,  equally  powerful  in 
political  and  religious  matters,  but  not  quite  so  numerous; 
and,  lastly,  the  white  Lamas  and  the  black  Lamas,  the 
Julinba,  who  are  the  craftsmen  in  the  monasteries,  work- 
ing at  painting,  printing,  pottery,  and  ornamentation,  be- 
sides attending  on  the  other  Lamas  and  making  them- 
selves useful  all  round  in  the  capacities  of  cooks,  shepherds, 
water-carriers,  writers,  and  last,  but  not  least,  executioners. 
The  Lamaseries  are  usually  very  rich,  for  the  Tibetans 
are  a  deeply  devout  race,  and  the  Lamas  are  not  backward 
in  learning  how  to  extort  money  from  the  ignorant  wor- 
shippers under  pretences  of  all  kinds.  Besides  attending 
to  their  religious  functions,  the  Lamas  are  traders  at  large, 
carrying  on  a  smart  money-lending  business,  and  charging 
a  very  high  interest,  which  falls  due  every  month.  If  this 
should  remain  unpaid,  all  the  property  of  the  borrower  is 
confiscated,  and  if  this  prove  insufficient  to  repay  the  loan 
the  debtor  himself  becomes  a  slave  to  the  monastery.  It 
is  evident,  from  the  well-fed  countenances  of  the  Lamas, 
that,  notwithstanding  their  occasional  bodily  privations, 
they,  as  a  rule,  do  not  allow  themselves  to  suffer  in  any 
way,  and  no  doubt  can  be  entertained  as  to  their  leading 
a  smooth  and  comfortable  existence  of  comparative  lux- 
ury— a  condition  which  frequently  degenerates  into  vice 
and  depravity. 

The  larger  Lamaseries  receive  a  yearly  Government 
allowance,  and  considerable  sums  are  collected  from  the 
oblations  of  the  faithful,  while  other  moneys  are  obtained 
by  all  sorts  of  devices  which,  in  any  country  less  religious 
than  Tibet,  would  be  considered  hardly  honorable  and 
often  even  altogether  criminal.  To  any  one  acquainted 

282 


LAMASERIES    AND    LAMAS 

with  Tibet,  it  is  a  well-known  fact  that,  except  in  the  larger 
towns,  nearly  all  people  besides  brigands  and  Lamas  are 
absolutely  poor,  while  the  monks  themselves  and  their 
agents  live  and  prosper  on  the  fat  of  the  land.  The  classes 
are  maintained  in  complete  ignorance,  and  seldom  is  a 
layman  found  who  can  write  or  even  read.  Thus  every- 
thing has  to  go  through  the  Lamas'  hands  before  it  can 
be  sanctioned. 

The  Lamaseries  and  the  Lamas,  and  the  land  and  prop- 
erty belonging  to  them,  are  absolutely  free  from  all  taxes 
and  dues,  and  each  Lama  or  novice  is  supported  for  life 
by  an  allowance  of  tsamba,  bricks  of  tea,  and  salt.  They 
are  recruited  from  all  ranks,  and  whether  honest  folks  or 
murderers,  thieves  or  swindlers,  all  are  eagerly  welcomed 
on  joining  the  brotherhood.  One  or  two  male  members 
of  each  family  in  Tibet  take  monastic  orders,  and  by  these 
means  the  monks  obtain  a  great  hold  over  each  house  or 
tent  hold.  It  is  hardly  an  exaggeration  to  say  that  in 
Tibet  half  the  male  population  are  Lamas. 

In  each  monastery  are  found  Lamas,  Chabis,  and  a 
lower  grade  of  ignorant  and  depraved  Lamas,  slaves,  as  it 
were,  of  the  higher  order.  They  dress  and  have  clean- 
shaven heads  like  their  superiors,  and  do  all  the  handiwork 
of  the  monastery;  but  they  are  mere  servants,  and  take 
no  direct  active  part  in  the  politics  of  the  Lama  Govern- 
ment. The  Chabis  are  novices.  They  enter  the  Lama- 
sery when  very  young,  and  remain  students  for  many 
years.  They  are  constantly  under  the  teaching  and  super- 
vision of  the  older  ones,  and  confession  is  practised  from 
inferior  to  superior.  After  undergoing  successfully  sev- 
eral examinations  they  become  effective  Lamas,  which 
word  translated  means  "  high  -  priest."  These  Chabis 
take  minor  parts  in  the  strange  religious  ceremonies  in 
which  the  Lamas,  disguised  in  skins  and  ghastly  masks, 

283 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

sing  and  dance  with  extraordinary  contortions  to  the  ac- 
companiment of  weird  music  made  by  bells,  horns,  flutes, 
•cymbals,  and  drums. 

Each  large  monastery  has  at  its  head  a  Grand  Lama, 
not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Dalai  Lama  of  Lhassa,  who 
is  believed,  or  rather  supposed,  to  have  an  immortal  soul 
transmigrating  successively  from  one  body  into  another. 

The  Lamas  eat,  drink,  and  sleep  together  in  the  mon- 
astery, with  the  exception  of  the  Grand  Lama,  who  has  a 
room  to  himself.  For  one  moon  in  every  twelve  they  ob- 
serve a  strict  seclusion,  which  they  devote  to  praying,  and 
during  which  time  they  are  not  allowed  to  speak.  They 
fast  for  twenty-four  hours  at  a  time,  with  only  water  and 
butter-tea,  eating  on  fast-days  sufficient  food  only  to  re- 
main alive,  and  depriving  themselves  of  everything  else, 
including  snuff  and  spitting,  the  two  most  common  habits 
among  Tibetan  men. 

The  Lamas  have  great  pretensions  to  infallibility,  and 
on  account  of  this  they  claim,  and  obtain,  the  veneration 
of  the  people,  by  whom  they  are  supported,  fed,  and 
clothed.  I  found  them,  as  a  rule,  very  intelligent,  but  in- 
human, barbarously  cruel,  and  dishonorable,  and  this  was 
not  my  own  experience  alone.  I  heard  the  same  from  the 
overridden  natives,  who  wish  for  nothing  better  than  a 
chance  to  shake  off  their  yoke. 

Availing  themselves  of  the  absolute  ignorance  in  which 
they  succeed  in  keeping  the  people,  the  Lamas  practise 
to  a  great  extent  occult  arts,  by  which  they  profess  to 
cure  illnesses,  discover  murders  and  thefts,  stop  rivers 
from  flowing,  and  bring  storms  about  at  a  moment's 
notice.  Certain  exorcisms,  they  say,  drive  away  the  evil 
spirits  that  cause  disease.  It  is  certain  that  the  Lamas 
are  adept  at  hypnotic  experiments,  by  which  means  they 
contrive  to  let  the  subjects  under  their  influence  see  many 

284 


OCCULT   ARTS 

things  and  objects  that  are  not  there  in  reality.  To  this 
power  are  due  the  frequent  reports  of  apparitions  of 
Buddha,  seen  generally  by  single  individuals,  and  the 
visions  of  demons,  the  accounts  of  which  alone  terrify  the 
simple-minded  folk,  and  cause  them  to  pay  all  their  spare 
cash  in  donations  to  the  monastery. 

Mesmerism  plays  an  important  part  in  their  weird 
dances,  during  which  extraordinary  contortions  are  per- 
formed and  strange  positions  assumed,  the  body  of  the 
dancer  being  eventually  reduced  to  a  cataleptic  state,  in 
which  it  remains  for  a  great  length  of  time. 

The  Lamas  swear  to  celibacy  when  they  enter  a  Lama- 
sery ;  but  they  do  not  always  keep  these  vows,  and  they 
are  besides  addicted  to  the  most  disgusting  of  all  vices  in 
its  very  worst  forms,  which  accounts  for  the  repulsive  ap- 
pearance of  far- gone  depravity  so  common  among  the 
middle-aged  Lamas. 

All  the  larger  Lamaseries  support  one  or  more  Lama 
sculptors,  who  travel  all  over  the  district,  and  go  to  the 
most  inaccessible  spots  to  carve  on  rocks,  stones,  or 
pieces  of  horn,  the  everlasting  inscription,  "Omne  mani 
padme  hun"  which  one  sees  all  over  the  country.  Un- 
seen, I  once  succeeded,  after  much  difficulty  and  discom- 
fort, in  carrying  away  two  of  these  very  heavy  inscribed 
stones,  which  are  still  in  my  possession,  and  of  which  re- 
productions are  here  given. 

\Yeird  and  picturesque  places,  such  as  the  highest 
points  on  mountain  passes,  gigantic  bowlders,  rocks  near 
the  sources  of  rivers,  or  any  spot  where  a  mani  wall  ex- 
ists, are  the  places  most  generally  selected  by  these  artists 
to  engrave  the  magic  formula  alluding  to  the  reincarna- 

o  o  *-~y 

tion  of  Buddha  from  a  lotus  flower. 

The  famous  prayer-wheels,  those   mechanical  contriv- 
ances by  which  the  Tibetans  pray  to  their  God  by  means 
i.— w  285 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

of  water,  wind,  and  hand  power,  are  also  manufactured  by 
Lama  artists.  The  larger  ones,  moved  by  water,  are  con- 
structed by  the  side  of,  or  over,  a  stream,  and  the  huge 
cylinders  on  which  the  entire  Tibetan  prayer-book  is  in- 
scribed are  revolved  by  the  flowing  water.  The  wheels 
moved  by  wind-power  are  similar  to  those  used  by  the 
Shokas,  which  I  have  already  described,  but  the  Tibetans 


STONE    WITH    INSCRIPTION 


often  have  prayers  printed  on  the  slips  of  cloth.  The 
smaller  prayer-wheels,  revolved  by  hand,  are  of  two  differ- 
ent kinds,  and  are  made  either  of  silver  or  copper.  Those 
for  home  use  are  cylinders,  about  six  inches  high.  Inside 
these  revolve  on  pivots,  on  the  principle  of  a  spinning 
top,  the  rolls  of  prayers  which,  by  means  of  a  projecting 
knob  above  the  machine,  the  worshipper  sets  in  motion. 
The  prayers  can  be  seen  revolving  inside  through  a 
square  opening  in  the  cylinder.  The  more  universal 
prayer-wheel  in  every-day  use  in  Tibet  is,  however,  of  the 
pattern  shown  in  the  illustration.  It  is  usually  construct- 
ed of  copper,  sometimes  of  brass,  and  frequently  entirely 

286 


PRAYER-WHEELS 

or  partly  of  silver.  The  cylinder  has  two  movable  lids, 
between  which  the  prayer-roll  fits  tightly.  A  handle  with 
an  iron  rod  is  passed  through  the  centre  of  the  cylinder 
and  roll,  and  is  kept  in  its  place  by  means  of  a  knob.  A 
ring  encircling  the  cylinder  attaches  it  to  a  short  chain 
and  weight;  this  serves,  when  started  by  a  jerk  of  the 
hand,  to  give  a  rotatory  movement,  which  must,  accord- 
ing to  rule,  be  from  left  to  right,  and  which  is  kept  up 


STONE   WITH    INSCRIPTION 


indefinitely,  the  words  "  Omne  mani  padme  /itm"  or 
simply  "  Mani>  mani"  being  repeated  until  rotation  is 
kept  up. 

The  more  ancient  wheels  have  the  prayers  written  by 
hand  instead  of  printed,  and  are  contained  in  a  small 
black  bag.  Charms,  such  as  rings  of  malachite,  jade, 
bone,  or  silver,  are  often  attached  to  the  weight  and  chain 
by  which  the  rotary  movement  is  given  to  the  wheel. 
These  praying- machines  are  found  in  every  Tibetan 
family,  and  nearly  "every  Lama  possesses  one.  They 
keep  them  jealously,  and  it  is  very  difficult  to  get  the  real 
ones.  I  was  particularly  fortunate,  and  during  my  jour- 

287 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

ney  in  Tibet  I  was  able  to  purchase  as  many  as  twelve, 
two  of  which  were  extremely  old. 

Besides  the  rosary,  which  the  Lamas  always  use  in  a 
similar  way  to  the  Roman  Catholics,  they  have  a  brass 


PRAYER-WHEELS,  ANCIENT   AND   MODERN.      SHOWING   ROLLS   OF 
PRAYERS   TO   GO  INSIDE 

instrument  which  they  twist  between  the  palms  of  their 
hands  while  saying  prayers,  and  this  is  used  exclusively 
by  Lamas.  It  is  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  inches  in 
length,  and  is  rounded  so  as  to  be  easily  held  in  the 
hollow  of  the  two  hands. 

In  Tibet,  as  in  other  Buddhist  countries,  there  are  nun- 
neries  besides   Lamaseries.     The    nuns,  unattractive   in 

288 


NUNNERIES 

themselves  mostly,  and  looked  down  upon,  shave  their 
heads  and  practise  witchcraft  and  magic,  just  as  the  La- 
mas do.  In  some  of  these  nunneries  strict  clausura  is 
enforced,  but  in  most  of  them  the  Lamas  are  allowed 
free  access,  with  the  usual  result  that  the  nuns  become 
the  concubines  of  the  Lamas.  Even  apart  from  this,  the 
women  of  the  nunneries  are  quite  as  immoral  as  their 
brethren  of  the  Lamaseries,  and  at  their  best  they  are  but 
a  low  type  of  humanity. 

The  Lamas  who,  at  certain  periods  of  the  year,  are  al- 
lowed an  unusual  amount  of  freedom  with  women,  are 
those  who  practise  the  art  of  making  musical  instru- 
ments and  eating-vessels  out  of  human  bones.  The  skull 
is  used  for  making  drinking -cups,  tsamba  bowls,  and 
single  and  double  drums,  and  the  humerus,  femur,  and 
tibia  bones  are  turned  into  trumpets  and  pipes.  These 
particular  Lamas  are  said  to  relish  human  blood,  which 
they  drink  out  of  the  cups  made  from  men's  skulls. 

289 


CHAPTER  XLVIII 

ILLNESSES  AND  REMEDIES  —  CURIOUS  THEORIES  ABOUT  FEVER  —  EVIL 
SPIRITS — BLACKSMITH  AND  DENTIST — EXORCISMS — SURGICAL  OPERA- 
TIONS— MASSAGE  AND  CUPPING  —  INCURABLE  ILLNESSES  —  DEFORMI- 
TIES— DEAFNESS — FITS  AND  INSANITY — MELANCHOLIA— SUICIDES 

THE  Lamas  became  quite  communicative,  enabling 
me,  partly  with  the  little  Hindustani  that  I  knew  and 
partly  with  the  Tibetan  I  had  picked  up,  to  enter  into  a 
conversation  about  illnesses  and  their  remedies,  certain 
as  I  was  that  they  must  have  strange  notions  on  the 
subject.  I  was  not  disappointed  in  this  surmise,  and 
from  that  conversation  and  my  own  observation  on  previ- 
ous and  subsequent  occasions,  I  am  able  to  give  a  few 
details  of  the  methods  of  the  Lamas  in  curing  the  more 
frequent  ailments  found  in  the  country. 

The  Lamas  explained  to  me  that  all  diseases  arose 
from  fever,  instead  of  fever  being  an  accompaniment  of 
most  illnesses,  and,  furthermore,  that  fever  itself  was  but 
an  evil  spirit,  which  assumed  different  forms  when  it  en- 
tered the  body,  and  caused  all  sorts  of  complaints.  The 
fever  demon,  they  asserted,  was  a  spirit,  but  there  were 
yet  other  demons  who  were  so  good  as  to  bring  us  riches 
and  happiness.  For  instance,  when  a  man  after  a  dan- 
gerous illness  visited  a  cave,  waterfall,  or  river -gorge, 
which  these  demons  were  supposed  to  haunt,  he  might 
have  a  relapse  and  die,  or  he  might  be  instantly  cured 
and  live  happy  ever  afterwards.  In  the  latter  case,  as 
would  naturally  be  expected,  the  recipient  of  such  ines- 
timable privileges  generally  returned  to  pay  a  second 

290 


A   COMMON    COMPLAINT 

visit  to  the  kindly  spirits  who  made  his  life  worth  living. 
"  But,"  said  the  Lamas  quite  seriously,  "  when  he  goes  a 
second  time  he  will  get  blind  or  paralytic,  as  a  punish- 
ment for  his  greediness." 

"  The  evil  spirits,"  continued  a  fat  old  Lama  with 
crooked  fingers,  which  he  clinched  and  shook  as  he 
spoke,  "  are  in  the  shape  of  human  beings,  or  like  goats, 
dogs,  sheep,  or  ponies,  and  sometimes  they  assume  the 
semblance  of  wild  animals,  such  as  bears  and  snow-leop- 
ards." 

I  told  the  Lamas  that  I  had  remarked  many  cases  of 
goitre  and  also  other  abnormalities,  such  as  harelip  and 
webbed  fingers  and  toes,  as  well  as  the  very  frequent  oc- 
currence of  supernumerary  fingers  or  toes.  I  asked 
them  the  reason  for  such  cases,  and  they  attributed 
them,  with  the  exception  of  webbed  fingers,  to  the  mis- 
chievous work  of  demons  before  the  child's  birth ;  they 
could  not,  however,  suggest  a  remedy  for  goitre. 

Inguinal  and  umbilical  hernia  are  quite  common,  as  I 
have  on  several  occasions  observed,  and  coarse  belts  are 
made  according  to  the  taste  and  ingenuity  of  the  suf- 
ferer, but  are  of  hardly  any  efficacy  in  preventing  the  in- 
crease of  the  swellings. 

A  common  complaint,  especially  among  the  older 
women,  was  rheumatism,  from  which  they  seemed  to  suf- 
fer considerably.  It  affected  their  fingers  and  toes,  and 
particularly  the  wrists  and  ankles,  the  joints  swelling 
so  as  to  render  them  quite  stiff,  the  tendons  contract- 
ing, swelling,  and  becoming  prominent  and  hard  in  the 
palms  of  the  hands. 

Both  before  and  after  my  conversation  with  the  Lamas 
I  had  opportunities  of  ascertaining  that  the  stomachs  of 
the  Tibetans  are  seldom  in  good  working  order.  But 
how  could  they  be  when  you  consider  the  gallons  of 

291 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

filthy  tea  which  they  drink  daily,  and  the  liquor  to  which 
they  are  so  partial  ?  This  poisonous  concoction  is 
enough  to  destroy  the  gastric  juices  of  an  ostrich !  The 
tongue,  as  I  have  mentioned  already,  is  invariably  thick- 
ly furred  with  whitish  coating,  and  Tibetans  have  often 
complained  to  me  of  tumors  as  well  as  of  painful  burn- 
ings in  the  stomach,  the  latter  undoubtedly  caused  by 
ulcerations.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that,  even  in  the  high 
land  of  Tibet,  the  worst  of  all  sexual  diseases  (called  by 
the  Tibetans  Born]  has  made  vast  numbers  of  victims, 
palpable  traces  of  it  showing  themselves  in  eruptions, 
particularly  on  the  forehead  and  on  the  ears,  round  the 
mouth  and  under  the  nostrils,  on  the  arms  and  legs.  In 
cases  of  very  long  standing,  a  peculiar  whitish  discolora- 
tion of  the  skin  and  gums  was  to  be  noticed,  with  abnor- 
mal contraction  of  the  pupils.  That  such  a  disease  is 
well  rooted  in  the  country  we  have  proof  enough  in  the 
foul  teeth  which  the  majority  of  Tibetans  possess.  In 
nearly  all  cases  that  I  examined,  the  teeth  were,  even  in 
young  men,  so  loose,  decayed,  and  broken  as  to  make  me 
feel  quite  sorry  for  their  owners,  and  during  the  whole 
time  I  was  in  Tibet — and  I  came  in  contact  with  several 
thousand  people — I  believe  that  I  could  almost  count  on 
my  fingers  the  sets  of  teeth  that  appeared  quite  regular, 
healthy,  and  strong.  As  a  rule,  too,  the  women  had  bet- 
ter teeth  than  the  men.  No  doubt  the  admixture  of  bad 
blood  in  the  Tibetan  race  contributes  a  great  deal  to  the 
unevenness  and  malformation  of  their  teeth,  and  if  we 
add  to  this  the  fact  that  the  corruption  of  the  blood,  even 
apart  from  disease,  is  very  great,  owing  to  their  pecul- 
iar laws  of  marriage,  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  services 
of  dentists  are  everywhere  required.  The  teeth  of  Tibe- 
tans are  generally  of  such  a  brittle  nature  that  the  den- 
tist of  Tibet — usually  a  Lama  and  a  blacksmith  as  well 

292' 


TRANSMIGRATION    OF    EVIL    SPIRITS 

— has  devised  an  ingenious  way  of  protecting  them  from 
further  destruction  by  means  of  a  silver  cap  incasing  the 
broken  tooth.  I  once  saw  a  man  with  all  his  front  teeth 
covered  in  this  fashion,  and  as  the  dentist  who  had  at- 
tended to  him  had  constructed  the  small  cases  apparent- 
ly with  no  regard  to  shape  or  comfort,  but  had  made 
most  of  them  end  in  a  point  for  mastication's  sake,  the 
poor  man  had  a  ghastly  appearance  every  time  that  he 
opened  his  mouth.  The  Tibetans  are  not  very  sensitive 
to  physical  pain,  as  I  have  had  reason  to  judge  on  sev- 
eral occasions,  when  I  have  seen  teeth  extracted  in  the 
most  primitive  fashion,  without  a  sound  being  emitted 
from  the  sufferer. 

In  Southwestern  Tibet  the  Hunyas( Tibetans)  have  the 
same  strange  notions  on  transmigration  of  evil  spirits 
which  are  common  to  the  Shokas.  For  instance,  if  a  man 
falls  ill,  they  maintain  that  the  only  remedy  is  to  drive 
away  the  evil  spirit  that  has  entered  his  body.  Now  ac- 
cording to  Tibetan  and  Shoka  ideas  evil  spirits  always 
enter  a  living  body  to  satisfy  their  craving  for  blood ; 
therefore,  to  please  the  spirit  and  decoy  him  away,  if  the 
illness  be  slight,  a  small  animal,  such  as  a  dog  or  a  bird,  is 
brought  and  placed  close  by  the  patient ;  if  the  illness  be 
grave,  a  sheep  is  produced  and  exorcisms  are  made  in  the 
following  fashion:  a  bowl  of  water  is  whirled  three  or 
four  times  over  the  sick  man's  head,  and  then  again  over 
the  animal  selected,  upon  whose  head  it  is  poured.  These 
circles,  described  with  certain  mystic  words, have  the  power 
of  drawing  the  spirit  out  of  its  first  quarters  and  causing 
it  to  enter  the  brain  of  the  second  victim,  upon  whose 
skull  the  water  is  poured  to  prevent  its  returning  back. 

"  Of  course,"  said  my  informer,  with  an  air  of  great  gravi- 
ty, "if  you  can  give  the  evil  spirit  a  present  in  the  shape  of 
a  living  being  that  will  satisfy  him,  he  will  depart  quite 

293 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 


happy."  If  the  illness  is  slight,  it  means  that  the  spirit  is 
not  much  out  of  temper,  and  a  small  present  is  sufficient 
to  satisfy  him,  but  if  the  disease  is  serious,  nothing  less 
than  a  sheep  or  even  a  yak  will  satisfy  him.  As  soon  as 
the  spirit  has  changed  his  temporary  abode  the  animal  is 
quickly  dragged  away  to  a  crossing  of  four  roads,  and 
if  there  are  no  roads  a  cross  is  previously  drawn  on  the 
ground,  where  a  grave  for  the  animal 
is  dug,  into  which  it  is  mercilessly 
thrown  and  buried  alive.  The  spirit, 
unable  to  make  a  rapid  escape^  re- 
mains to  suck  the  blood  of  his  last 
victim,  and  in  the  mean  time  the  sick 
man,  deprived  of  the  company  of  his 
ethereal  and  unwelcome  guest,  has 
time  to  make  a  speedy  recovery. 
When  a  smaller  animal  is  used,  such 
as  a  dog  or  a  bird,  and  when  the  pa- 
tient complains  of  more  than  one  ail- 
ment, the  poor  beast,  having  been 
conveyed  to  the  crossing  of  four 
roads,  is  suddenly  seized  and  brutally 
torn  into  four  parts,  which  are  flung 
in  four  different  directions,  the  idea  being  that,  wherever 
there  may  be  spirits  waiting  for  blood,  they  will  get  their 
share  and  depart  happy.  After  their  craving  is  satisfied, 
the  evil  spirits  are  not  very  particular  whether  the  blood 
is  human  or  not.  In  Shoka  land  especially,  branches 
with  thorns  and  small  flying  prayers  are  placed  on  each 
road  to  prevent  their  immediate  return.  These  are  said 
to  be  insuperable  barriers  to  the  evil  spirits. 

When  a  patient  completely  recovers,  the  Lamas  natu- 
rally obtain  money  for  the  exorcisms  which  have  expelled 
the  illness,  and  they  never  fail  to  impress  upon  the  people 

294 


BRANCH  WITH  THORNS 

TO  PREVENT  RETURN 

OF   EVIL   SPIRITS 


INSUPERABLE    BARRIERS 

the  extraordinary  powers  they  possess  over  the  much- 
dreaded  demons. 

The  Tibetans  are  unsuccessful  in  surgery,  first  of  all 
because  they  do  not  possess  sufficient  knowledge  of  human 
anatomy;  secondly,  because  their  fingers  are  wanting  in 
suppleness  and  sensitiveness  of  touch ;  and,  lastly,  because 
they  are  not  able  to  manufacture  instruments  of  sufficient 
sharpness  to  perform  surgical  operations  with  speed  and 
cleanliness.  In  Tibet  everybody  is  a  surgeon,  thus  woe 
to  the  unfortunate  who  needs  one.  It  is  true  that  ampu- 
tation is  seldom  performed ;  but  if  it  should  become  nec- 
essary, and  the  operation  is  at  all  difficult,  the  patient  in- 
variably succumbs.  The  Tibetan  surgeon  does  not  know 
how  to  saw  bones,  and  so  merely  severs  the  limb  at  the 
place  where  the  fracture  has  occurred.  The  operation  is 
performed  with  any  knife  or  dagger  that  happens  to  be  at 
hand,  and  is  therefore  attended  with  much  pain,  and  fre- 
quently has  disastrous  results.  The  precaution  is  taken 
to  tie  up  the  broken  limb  above  fracture,  but  it  is  done  in 
such  a  clumsy  way  that  very  often,  owing  to  the  bad  qual- 
ity of  Tibetan  blood,  mortification  sets  in,  and,  as  the  Tib- 
etans are  at  a  loss  what  to  do  on  such  occasions,  another 
victim  goes  to  join  the  majority. 

Considerinsf  the  nomadic  habits  of  the  Tibetans  and 

O 

the  rough  life  they  lead,  they  are  comparatively  immune 
from  very  bad  accidents.  Occasionally  there  is  a  broken 
arm  or  leg,  which  they  manage  to  set  roughly,  if  the  fract- 
ure is  not  a  compound  one,  by  putting  the  bones  back  in 
their  right  position,  and  by  tightly  bandaging  the  limbs 
with  rags,  pieces  of  cloth,  and  rope.  Splinters  are  used 
when  wood  is  obtainable.  A  powder  made  from  a  fungus 
growing  on  oak-trees  in  the  Himahlyas  is  imported  and 
used  by  the  Tibetans  near  the  frontier.  A  thick  layer  of 
it,  when  wet,  is  rubbed  and  left  upon  the  broken  limb, 

295 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

over  which  the  bandaging  is  afterwards  done.  In  a  healthy 
person  a  simple  fracture  of  the  leg,  which  by  chance  has 
been  properly  set,  takes  from  twenty  to  thirty  days  to  heal, 
after  which  the  patient  can  begin  moving  about;  and  a 
broken  arm  does  not  require  to  be  kept  in  a  sling  more 
than  fifteen  or  twenty  days.  If  these  cures  are  somewhat 
more  rapid  than  with  our  more  civilized  methods  of  bone 
setting,  it  is  merely  due  to  the  wholesome  climate  and  the 
fact  that  the  natives  spend  most  of  their  days  out  in  the 
open  air  and  in  the  sun,  undoubtedly  the  best  cure  for  any 
complaint  of  that  kind ;  but,  of  course,  it  is  but  seldom 
that  the  bones  are  joined  properly,  and  they  generally  re- 
main a  deformity.  More  satisfactory  results  are  obtained, 
with  cases  of  dislocations,  by  pulling  the  bones  into  their 
right  position. 

In  case  of  wounds  the  bleeding  is  arrested  by  the  ap- 
plication of  a  wet  rag  tightly  bound  over  the  wound.  In 
most  cases  of  unbandaged  wounds  that  came  under  my 
notice  the  process  of  healing  was  a  very  slow  one,  the 
great  changes  in  the  temperature  between  night  and  day 
often  causing  them  to  open  of  themselves.  They  made 
good  headway  towards  recovery  in  the  beginning,  but  the 
skin  was  very  slow  in  joining  and  reforming. 

Burns  are  treated  by  smearing  butter  over  them;  and  a 
poultice  of  rhubarb  is  used  to  send  down  swellings  of  con- 
tusions as  well  as  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  boils,  from 
which  the  Tibetans  suffer  much,  to  a  speedy  maturation. 

Aconite  is  given  for  fever  and  rheumatism,  and  a  rough 
kind  of  massage  is  used  to  allay  pain  in  the  muscles  of 
limbs.  It  is  generally  done  by  the  women,  who,  as  far  as 
I  could  judge,  practised  it  with  no  real  knowledge,  but 
merely  contented  themselves  with  violent  rubbing  and 
pinching  and  thumping  until  signs  of  relief  appeared  on 
the  sufferer's  face.  Whether,  however,  these  manifesta- 

296 


A    FEW    REMEDIES 

tions  were  due  to  actual  soothing  of  pain,  or  to  the  pros- 
pect of  the  masseuse  bringing  her  treatment  to  an  end,  I 
could  never  properly  ascertain.  Tibetan  fingers  are  not 
well  adapted  for  such  work,  being  clumsy,  and,  compared 
with  those  of  other  Asiatic  races,  quite  stiff  and  hard. 

Cupping  is  adopted  with  success.  Three  or  four  small 
incisions  are  made  close  to  one  another,  and  a  conical 
cupping-horn,  about  seven  inches  long,  having  a  tiny  hole 
at  its  point,  is  applied  over  them.  The  operator  then 
sucks  through  this  small  aperture  until  the  horn  is  full  of 
blood,  when  it  is  removed  and  the  operation  begun  again. 
With  poisoned  wounds  the  sucking  is  done  by  applying 
the  lips  to  the  wound  itself. 

Bleeding  is  used  as  a  remedy  for  bruises  and  swellings, 
and  for  internal  pain,  also  for  acute  attacks  of  rheuma- 
tism and  articular  pains.  If  it  is  not  sufficient,  the  brand- 
ing cure  is  resorted  to,  and  if  this  should  also  fail,  then 
the  tinder  cones  come  into  play,  and,  the  seat  of  the  pain 
being  encircled  with  them,  they  are  set  alight.  When 
even  this  remedy  proves  inefficacious,  and  the  patient 
survives  it,  the  illness  is  pronounced  incurable. 

Natural  abnormalities  and  deformities  are  frequent 
enough  in  Tibet,  and  some  came  under  my  notice  in 
nearly  every  camp  I  entered.  Deformities  of  the  spine 
were  common,  such  as  displacement  of  the  shoulder- 
blades  ;  and  I  saw  during  my  stay  in  Tibet  many  cases  of 
actually  hump-backed  people.  There  were  frequent  cases, 
too,  of  crookedness  of  the  legs,  and  club-foot  was  not  rare, 
while  one  constantly  met  with  webbed  fingers  and  super- 
numerary fingers  and  toes,  as  well  as  the  absence  of  one 
or  more  of  them.  Malformations  of  the  skull,  such  as 
the  two  sides  being  of  marked  unequal  shape  or  an  ab- 
normal distance  between  the  eye-sockets,  were  the  two 
more  common  deformities  that  came  under  my  notice. 

297 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

The  ears  of  men  of  the  better  classes  were  much  elon- 
gated artificially  by  the  constant  wearing  of  heavy  ear- 
rings, which  sometimes  even  tore  the  lobe  of  the  ear. 

The  most  frequent  and  curious  of  all  was  the  extreme 
swelling  of  children's  stomachs,  caused  by  the  umbilical 
cord  not  being  properly  tied  at  birth.  The  operation  was 
generally  performed  by  the  mother  and  father  of  the 
newly  born,  or  by  some  friend  at  hand.  The  infants  had 
such  enormous  paunches  that  in  some  cases  they  were 
hardly  able  to  stand ;  but  as  they  grew  older  the  swelling 
seemed  to  gradually  abate  and  the  body  assumed  its  nor- 
mal shape. 

Deafness  was  common  enough,  but  I  never  came 
across  any  dumb  people,  though  I  now  and  then  encoun- 
tered cases  of  painful  stammering  and  other  defects  of 
articulation  arising  from  malformation  of  the  palate  and 
tongue. 

Occasionally,  however,  the  difficulty  of  speech  was 
caused  by  dementia,  which  seemed  very  common  in  Tibet, 
especially  among  the  young  men.  Whether  it  was  caused 
by  cardiac  affection  consequent  upon  organic  vices,  as  I 
suspected,  or  by  other  trouble,  I  could  not  say  for  certain ; 
but  presently  I  based  my  suspicions  on  certain  facts 
which  I  happened  to  notice,  besides  the  presence  of  symp- 
toms indicating  great  nervous  depression  and  strain,  ex- 
treme weakness  of  the  spine,  and  oscillations  of  the  hands 
when  spread  horizontally  with  the  fingers  and  thumbs 
wide  apart.  This  may  in  one  way  be  accounted  for  by 
the  difficulty  that  men  have  in  obtaining  wives,  owing  to 
the  scarcity  of  women.  Apoplectic  and  epileptic  fits  and 
convulsions  were  not  of  very  frequent  occurrence,  but  they 
seemed  severe  when  they  did  occur.  The  fire  cure  was 
usually  applied  in  order  to  drive  away  the  spirits  that 
were  supposed  to  have  entered  the  body,  but,  all  the  same, 

298 


MELANCHOLIA   OF   TIBETAN   WOMEN 

these  fits  at  times  resulted  in  temporary  or  occasionally 
permanent  paralysis,  and  much  derangement  and  disfigu- 
ration of  the  facial  expression,  particularly  about  the. eyes 
and  mouth.  I  had  occasion  to  study  three  very  good 
specimens  of  this  kind  at  Tucker,  at  Tarbar,  north  of  the 
Brahmaputra  River,  and  at  Tokchim. 

Much  to  my  regret  I  never  came  across  any  violent 
cases  of  insanity  during  my  stay  in  the  country,  though 
many  times  I  observed  strange  peculiarities  among  the 
men,  and  signs  of  manias,  more  particularly  religious. 

In  women  I  several  times  noticed  symptoms  of  melan- 
cholia, caused  no  doubt  by  abuse  of  sexual  intercourse, 
owing  to  their  strange  laws  of  polyandry.  I  was  told  that 
occasionally  it  led  to  suicide  by  drowning  or  strangula- 
tion. However,  I  was  never  able  to  keep  any  of  the  sus- 
picious cases  under  close  observation  for  any  length  of 
time,  and,  as  our  arrival  into  Tibetan  camps  generally 
created  some  amount  of  fear  and  sensation,  and  we  usual- 
ly left  before  they  could  be  quite  at  home  with  us,  I  never 
had  a  chance  of  studying  the  subject  more  closely. 


CHAPTER  XLIX 

A  TIBETAN  MEDICINE-MAN—LUMBAGO,  AND  A  STARTLING  CURE  FOR  IT 
— COMBUSTIBLE  FUSEES — FIRE  AND  BUTTER — PRAYERS,  AGONY,  AND 
DISTORTIONS— STRANGE  IDEAS  ON  MEDICINE 

STRANGE  as  these  remedies  seemed  to  be,  they  hardly 
came  up,  as  far  as  interest  went,  to  one  I  saw  applied  at  a 
place  called  Kutzia.  I  had  entered  a  Tibetan  camp  of 
some  twenty  or  thirty  tents,  when  my  attention  was  drawn 
to  an  excited  crowd  collected  round  an  old  man  whose  gar- 
ments had  been  removed.  He  was  tightly  bound  with 
ropes,  and  agony  was  depicted  on  his  features.  A  tall, 
long-haired  man  with  red  coat  and  heavy  boots  knelt  by 
the  side  of  the  sufferer  and  prayed  fervently,  twirling 
round  a  prayer-wheel  which  he  held  in  his  right  hand. 

My  curiosity  aroused,  I  approached  the  gathering, 
whereupon  three  or  four  Tibetans  got  up  and  signed  to 
me  to  be  off.  I  pretended  not  to  understand,  and,  after  a 
heated  discussion,  I  was  allowed  to  remain. 

An  operation  was  obviously  being  performed  by  a  Tib- 
etan medicine-man,  and  the  suspense  in  the  crowd  round 
the  sick  man  was  considerable.  The  doctor  was  -busy 
preparing  combustible  fusees,  which  he  wrapped  up  care- 
fully in  silk  paper.  When  cut  in  the  centre  they  formed 
two  cones,  each  with  a  little  tail  of  twisted  paper  protrud- 
ing beyond  its  summit.  Having  completed  six  or  eight 
of  these,  the  medicine-man  made  his  patient,  or  rather  his 
victim,  assume  a  sitting  posture.  I  inquired  what  ailed 
the  sick  man.  From  what  they  told  me,  and  from  an  ex- 

300 


A   TIBETAN    MEDICINE-MAN 


animation  made  on  my  own  account,  I  was  satisfied  that 
the  man  was  suffering  from  an  attack  of  lumbago.     The 
coming  cure,  however,  interested  me  more  than  the  ill- 
ness itself,  and  the  doctor,  see- 
ing how  absorbed  I  was  in  the 
performance,  asked  me  to  sit  by 
his  side.     First  of  all  the  man 
called  for  "  fire,"  and  a  woman 
handed   him    a   blazing    brand 
from  a  fire  near  by.     He  swung 
it    to  and  fro    in   the   air,   and 
pronounced  certain    exorcisms. 
Next  the  patient  was  subjected 
to  a  thorough  examination,  giv- 
ing vent  to  a  piercing  yell  each 
time  that  the  long,  bony  fingers 
of   the    physician    touched    his 
sides,   whereupon    the    man   of 
science,  pointing  to  the  spot,  in- 
formed his  open  -  mouthed   au- 
dience that  the  pain  was  "there." 
Putting  on  a  huge  pair  of  spec- 
tacles, he  rubbed  with  the  palm 
of  his  hand  the  umbilical  region 
of  the  sufferer  and  then  meas- 
ured   with    folded   thumb    two 
inches    on    each    side    of    and 
slightly    under    the    umbilicus. 
To    mark    these    distances   he 
used  the   burning-brand,  apply- 
ing it  to  the  flesh  at  these  points. 

"  Murr,  murrT  (Butter,  butter!)  he  next  called  for, 
and  butter  was  produced.  Having  rubbed  a  little  on  the 
burns,  he  placed  upon  each  of  them  a  separate  cone,  and 

I.— X  SO1 


* 


LI  • 


A  MEDICINE-MAX 


IN    THE   FORBIDDEN    LAND 

pressed  until  it  remained  a  fixture,  the  point  upward. 
Shifting  the  beads  of  a  rosary,  revolving  the  praying- 
wheel,  and  muttering  prayers,  the  medicine -man  now 
worked  himself  into  a  perfect  frenzy.  He  stared  at  the 
sun,  raising  his  voice  from  a  faint  whisper  to  a  thunder- 
ing barytone  at  its  loudest,  and  his  whole  audience 
seemed  so  affected  by  the  performance  that  they  all 
shook  and  trembled  and  prayed  in  their  terror.  He 
now  again  nervously  clutched  the  burning  wood  in  one 
hand,  and,  blowing  upon  it  with  the  full  strength  of  his 
lungs,  produced  a  flame.  The  excitement  in  the  crowd 
became  intense.  Every  one,  head  down  to  the  ground, 
prayed  fervently.  The  doctor  waved  the  ignited  wood 
three  or  four  times  in  the  air  and  then  applied  the  flames 
to  the  paper  tips  of  the  combustible  cones.  Apparently 
saltpetre  and  sulphur  had  been  mixed  in  the  preparation 
of  these.  They  burned  fast,  making  a  noise  like  the  fuse 
of  a  rocket. 

At  this  juncture  the  animation  of  the  on-lookers  was 
not  to  be  compared  with  the  agitation  of  the  patient, 
who  began  to  feel  the  effects  of  this  primitive  remedy. 
The  fire  spluttered  on  his  bare  skin.  The  cure  was 
doing  its  work.  The  wretched  man's  mouth  foamed,  and 
his  eyes  bulged  out  of  their  sockets.  He  moaned  and 
groaned,  making  desperate  efforts  to  unloose  the  bonds 
that  kept  his  hands  fast  behind  his  back.  Two  stalwart 
men  sprang  forward  and  held  him  while  the  medicine- 
man and  all  the  women  present,  leaning  over  the  pros- 
trate form,  blew  with  all  their  might  upon  what  remained 
of  the  three  smoking  cones  frizzling  away  into  the  flesh 
of  the  wretched  victim. 

The  pain  of  which  the  man  complained  seemed  to  en- 
circle his  waist,  wherefore  the  strange  physician,  having 
untied  his  patient's  arms  from  behind,  and  retied  them 

302 


A   STRANGE    CURE 

in  front,  began  his  measurements  again,  this  time  from 
the  spinal  column. 

"  Chik,  ni,  sun  /"  (One,  two,  three !)  he  exclaimed,  as 
he  marked  the  three  spots  in  the  same  fashion  as  before, 
smeared  them  over  with  butter,  and  affixed  the  cones. 
Here  ensued  a  repetition  of  the  previous  excitement, 
prayers,  agony,  and  distortions,  but  the  patient  was  not 
thoroughly  cured,  and  more  cones  were  subsequently  ig- 
nited on  both  his  sides,  in  spite  of  his  protests  and  my 
appeals  on  his  behalf.  The  poor  fellow  soon  had  a  regu- 
lar circle  of  severe  burns  round  his  body. 

Needless  to  say,  when,  two  hours  later,  the  operation 
was  over,  the  sick  man  had  become  a  dying  man.  With 
a  view  to  obtaining  a  few  hints  on  Tibetan  medicine 
from  this  eminent  physician — the  Tibetans  held  him  in 
great  esteem — I  sent  him  a  small  present  and  requested 
him  to  visit  me.  He  was  flattered,  and  showed  no  desire 
to  keep  his  methods  a  secret,  but  even  pressed  me  to  try 
some  of  his  unique  remedies. 

According  to  him,  fire  would  cure  most  illnesses ;  what 
fire  could  not  cure,  water  would.  He  had,  neverthe- 
less, some  small  packets  of  variously  colored  powders,  for 
which  he  claimed  extraordinary  powers. 

"  I  am  afraid  your  patient  will  die,"  I  remarked. 

"  He  may,"  was  the  reply,  "  but  it  will  be  the  fault  of 
the  patient,  not  the  cure.  Besides,  what  does  it  matter 
whether  you  die  to-day  or  to-morrow  ?" 

And  with  this  unprofessional  dictum  he  left  me. 


CHAPTER   L 

TUCKER  VILLAGE  — CHOKDENS — HOUSES — FLYING  PRAYERS  — SOLDIERS 
OR  ROBBERS? — A  STAMPEDE— FRESH  PROVISIONS — DISAPPOINTM  I  N  I' 
—TREACHERY— SHOKAS  LEAVE  ME— OBSERVATIONS — FIVE  MEN,  ALL 
COUNTED 

WHEN  I  left  the  Gomba,  having  been  salaamed  to  the 
ground  by  my  new  friends  the  Lamas,  I  walked  about  the 
village  to  examine  all  there  was  to  be  seen. 

Along  the  water's  edge  stood  a  number  of  dilapidated 
Chokdens  made  of  mud  and  stones,  with  a  square  base 
surmounted  by  a  moulding,  and  an  upper  decoration  in 
steps,  topped  by  a  cylindrical  column.  They  were  in  a 
row  at  the  east  end  of  the  village,  and,  as  is  well  known, 
they  are  supposed  to  contain  a  piece  of  bone,  cloth,  or 
metal,  and  books,  or  parts  of  them,  that  had  once  belonged 
to  a  great  man  or  a  saint.  Roughly  drawn  images  are 
occasionally  found  in  them.  In  rare  cases,  when  crema- 
tion has  been  applied,  the  ashes  are  collected  into  a  small 
earthen-ware  urn  and  deposited  in  one  of  the  Chokdens. 
The  ashes  are  usually  made  into  a  paste  with  clay,  on 
which,  when  flattened  like  a  medallion,  a  representation 
of  Buddha  is  either  stamped  from  a  mould  or  engraved 
by  means  of  a  pointed  tool. 

The  interiors  of  the  houses  at  Tucker  were  no  more 
pleasing  than  the  exteriors.  Each  habitation  had  a  walled 
court-yard,  and  the  top  of  the  wall,  as  well  as  the  edge  of 
the  flat  roof,  was  lined  with  masses  of  tamarisk  for  fuel. 
In  the  court-yard  sheep  and  goats  were  penned  at  night; 
and  the  human  beings  who  occupied  the  rooms  were  dirty 

304 


BUYING   PROVISIONS 

beyond  all  description.  There  were  hundreds  of  flying 
prayers  over  the  monastery  as  well  as  over  each  house, 
and,  as  the  people  stood  on  their  roofs  watching  us,  laugh- 
ing and  chatting,  the  place  had  quite  a  gay  aspect 

While  I  was  strolling  about  some  fifty  or  sixty  men  ap- 
peared on  the  scene,  armed  with  matchlocks  and  swords, 
and  I  looked  upon  them  with  suspicion,  but  Kachi  reas- 
sured me,  and  said  they  were  not  soldiers,  but  a  powerful 
band  of  robbers  encamped  about  half  a  mile  off,  and  on 
very  friendly  terms  with  the  Lamas.  As  a  precaution,  I 
loaded  my  rifle,  which  was  quite  sufficient  to  occasion  a 
stampede  of  the  armed  crowd,  followed,  in  the  panic,  by 
all  the  other  villagers  that  had  collected  round  us.  Like 
all  Tibetans,  they  were  a  miserable  lot,  though  powerfully 
built  and  with  plenty  of  bounce  about  them. 

Early  in  the  morning  I  had  made  inquiries  about  pro- 
visions, and  had  arranged  for  the  purchase  of  two  fat 
sheep  and  some  450  Ibs.  of  food  (flour,  rice,  tsamba,  ghur, 
sugar,  salt,  and  butter),  and  several  Tibetans  stated  that 
they  could  supply  me  with  any  quantity  I  required. 
Among  others  was  a  trader  from  Buddhi,  Darcey  Bura's 
brother,  who  promised  to  bring  me  within  an  hour  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  of  food  to  last  us  ten  men  twenty-five  days. 
I  noticed,  when  these  men  left,  that  two  of  my  Shokas  ran 
after  them,  and  entered  into  an  excited  discussion  with 
them.  Some  two  or  three  hours  later  the  traders  returned, 
swearing  that  not  an  ounce  of  food  could  be  obtained  in  the 
place.  The  way  in  which  these  men  could  lie  was  indeed 
marvellous  to  study.  I  suspected  treachery,  and  reprimand- 
ed my  Shokas,  threatening  to  punish  them  very  severely  if 
I  could  prove  that  my  suspicions  were  well  founded. 

The  Shokas,  finding  themselves  discovered,  and  partly 
through  fear  of  the  Tibetans,  were  now  again  quite  un- 
reasonable and  demoralized,  so  much  so  that  I  decided  to 

305 


IN    THE    FORBIDDEN    LAND 

discharge  them.  It  was  no  use  keeping  them  by  force.  From 
the  moment  I  had  entered  the  forbidden  country  I  had  been 
compelled  to  protect  myself  against  them  as  much  as 
against  the  Tibetans.  I  reflected,  however,  when  I  made 
up  my  mind  to  let  them  go,  that  these  fellows  had  stood 
for  my  sake  hardships  and  privations  which  few  men  could 
stand,  and  in  paying  them  off  I  therefore  rewarded  them 


THE   PANKU   GOMBA 


suitably,  and  they  undertook  to  bring  back  safely  across 
the  frontier  part  of  my  baggage  containing  photographs, 
ethnological  collections,  etc.  With  infinite  trouble  I  then 
managed  to  purchase  enough  provisions  to  last  four  men 
ten  days. 

The  whole  party  accompanied  me  three  and  a  quarter 
miles  farther,  where,  in  sight  of  the  tumble-down  Panku 
Gomba,  a  mile  to  the  west  of  us,  we  halted  in  order  to 
make  the  necessary  arrangements  for  our  parting,  unseen 
by  the  Tibetans.  I  took  observations  for  latitude  and  Ion- 

306 


THE    FIVE    SHOKAS    QUIT 

gitude.  The  water  of  the  hypsometncal  apparatus  boiled 
at  185°  Fahr.  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  the  tem- 
perature of  the  air  being  76°  and  the  hour  10  A.M. 

\Ye  had  a  high  snowy  chain  to  the  south  of  us,  extend- 
ing from  70°  to  33°  (b.  m.),  the  direction  of  the  range  being 
approximately  from  southwest  to  northeast,  starting  at 
Ximo  Nangil. 

"A'hen  everything  was  ready  the  five  Shokas,  including 
Kachi  and  Dola,  left  me,  swearing  by  the  sun  and  all  that 
they  hold  most  sacred  that  they  would  in  no  way  betray 
me  to  the  Tibetans,  who  so  far  had  no  suspicion  as  to  who 
I  was. 

Bijesing  the  Johari  and  the  Kutial  Bura  Nattoo  agreed 
to  accompany  me  as  far  as  the  Maium  Pass,  so  that  my 
party,  including  myself,  was  now  reduced  to  only  five. 

307 


END    OF    VOL.  I 


DC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBHAflY  FAC 


mum  inn  inn  inn  NIII  mi 
A     000  106  100     1 


